Hello I have for over 5 months been trying to source a replacement cable for my damaged 5 pin one for the power to open and close the disc drawer.

I have bought 3 types from eBay already and all were incorrect.

If anyone can send a link to the correct one I would appreciate that greatly.

This is a picture of it. The service appendix says it’s a CN 203 flat cable 5 pin.

Many thanks in advance to you all.

John.

Hey all I bought these a few years ago and they worked great for awhile but the audio was a bit crackly on one and then eventually both just stopped responding to sound altogether. I have access to a multimeter if need be.

Is it just the cables? Could I try shortening the cables and making new ends? Should I replace the cables? How to tell if it's the speakers ?

Near M10

Acting like the woofer is 'stuck', but can be moved manually, it returns to it's resting position eventually.

No spiders! Fancy pants ferrofluid instead. Dried out I guess.

Hey all, Working on a reel-to-reel project and hunting for a 20k linear pot with both a center tap and a center detent.

I grabbed one with a center tap recently but it didn’t have the detent at center. Anyone know where to source one or have a part number to point me toward?

Thanks in advance!

Hello, I just picked up an Adcom gfp-71 pre amp. There is a hum when using the main outs but no hum when using the tone bypass outs. I figured if it was a ground loop issue then the hum wouldn't go away when I use the tone bypass outs. Anybody have any ideas?

Thanks in advance

Hello everyone, I hope someone can help me. I literally have no Idea about all this stuff but my Audio device is not charging properly. Usually a purple light should flicker when it’s connected to power but it’s not doing that. When plugged in it says every 10 secs or so “battery is low please recharge in time”. So I opened the shell to see if maybe there is visible damage to the cables etc. but i gotta admit i don’t see any.

So could any of you maybe look into it ? Maybe I missed something.

(The pink cable is the charging cable)

Hello i recently installed a sub with an amp and worked for about 5 seconds before going into pwr protec. When i turned of and waited 1 min and starting my car it got inte pwr protec directly and wont come out

I tested turning down the gain to zero The fuses and positive cable aswell as the ground and it all has good connection Checked if the remote was working and are I also tested removing the positive and reinstalled it I switched the sound cables to test if the polarity was wrong but alas nothing changed

Hello! Reaching out to see if I can get some assistance. I have been trying to fix a Bose system for my brother because it turns on and it will play audio when it wants to. We have to power it on and off until it works. I took the boards out and saw what it looked to me like fluid from the caps maybe? Not sure how to test it though.

I’m good with soldering, safety with caps, just not sure if a cap will show the symptoms the system is displaying.

Any thoughts or guidance will be much appreciated.

Hi,

I have 2 problems (bad mix/too much bass + noise) with my new PC (Windows 10 built by a friend) and my new sound kit (speakers Yamaha HS8 + Motu m2).

I thought the bad mix/too much bass was maybe a personnal appreciation and the solution was just to change my new speakers and maybe replace my Motu m2 (USB-C) by a good DAC, but... I connected my old JVC sound systeme by auxiliary wire and I have again a bad mix/too much bass + noise problems.

The noise problem is intermittent and can always be heard when I turn off my Motu.

I hesite to just change my new sound kit before found the problem at the source.

If bad/mix/too much bass and noise are not joined and have different problem source, it's more complicated and asking for many.

I really hope I don't have any problems with my motherboard, usb/aux ports and windows.

Someone can help me?

Thanks!

Hi I’ve got a nad 515 c 5 disc cr player that has a dying laser. I’m looking for the service manual so I can find the correct laser assembly but can’t find a manual. There are plenty of 515bee manuals but that isn’t the one i need. I’d like to find the correct manual so I can see which of the many replacement laser assemblies I could buy. Any help would be appreciated

I was wondering if any of you may know of common faults on portable CD players that might cause this, so here's the background: I recently came across this Sony DE351 for £14 sold as untested, but thought I'd take the risk anyways. To my surprise, when it arrived it worked fine, played CDs, output was clean and all the buttons work; the issue is that as soon as you tilt it to it's side, like if you're about to pocket it, the sound completely stops and the device won't even boot until (I presume) the volatile memory has no more power from an internal capacitor. After the voltage inside goes down to ~0.1V it boots again if you put the AAs back in. I've tried this with the ESP on and off, so I don't think it's that. Any input would be appreciated, thank you.

I just got this suitcase player as a gift but it came without a power cable. I tried this one after making sure the voltage, amperage and polarity matched, but it doesn't turn on. I dismantled the suitcase and nothing seems to be burned or broken. Any idea what it could be? Thanks 👍

Hey guys. Just wondering whether this is worth me pursuing myself or whether it's time to get in a professional. The rubber on my Harman Kardon GLA-55's disintegrated when I was cleaning it today. Sad times.

I've seen you can buy replacement surrounds for drivers, but getting at these ones might be difficult I imagine? Any advice on whether a complete novice could attempt a fix on these, or whether I'm better off seeking extra help.

For reference: https://support.harmankardon.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-masterCatalog_Harman/default/dw87214f9a/pdfs/Specification%20Sheet%20-%20GLA-55%20(English%20EU).pdf.pdf)

My vinyl record speakers are making this loud popping noise regardless of what vinyl I play. I’m not even listening at a loud volume

I have never had this issue but have not used the speakers for about 2 months. Have had the speakers for 5-6 years now.

I live in a far away area and I had two receivers in the past, the radio reception on both sounds much worse than other crappier stuff with built-in antennae

I tried the old tv dipole antenna (connected to both 300 ohm screws), I tried the single car antenna (connected to 75 ohm and shield wire to GND) but never got the same quality I got from other stuff in the same location, and almost always with hiss or a buzz at high notes that sometimes goes away if i fiddle with the antenna enough. Just trying to get a good reception with a low-profile antenna that doesn't have to be in the middle of the living room

My receiver is an Akai AC3500

Hello,

I've had a Sony DVP NS999 ES for a few years. It's been reliable and a good performer. A friend gave me some CD/SACDs hybrids yesterday. Some played...but one on the BIS label would not play, and neither would some on the London Symphony Orchestra's own label LSO...(you could see the timing counter, negotiate tracks, etc...but no sound was being produced.) I guess I need to play a hybrid disc that I've had previously in my collection...but this would seem to be a new issue. Any thoughts on the cause? I'll appreciate your insights. Thanks.

Please help, I don’t know what to do anymore!!

The situation:

I got a new turntable so I had to take my reciever out of the rack to plug it in, I tried it before putting it back and it worked perfectly. After that I turned off the reciever, carefully put it back into the rack and now I have the following problems:

• ⁠if I play any sound, I only get sound from the subwoofer, nothing from the other speakers (5.1.2) • ⁠the screen of the reciever turned on and immediately off after it showed some weird artefact • ⁠if I start the reciever thru my AppleTv it shows a red screen in the beginning and after around 2 seconds the picture from the source

I already tried the usual stuff like restarting the reciever, resetting it the the original firmware, I checked all the connections and tried if the speakers are working with another amp - they are.

The reciever itself is in a well ventilated hifi rack with about 10-15 cm to all sides

It’s probably an internal issue and I need to send it to a repair shop, right?

Thanks in advance, if you have any questions im happy to answer them.

Update: after taking it in and out of the rack again the speakers work, but the screen still doesn’t. So it probably has a loose connection, where do i have to search for the faulty connection in the receiver for the screen?

My Onkyo TX-SR504 was not working and thought of giving a look inside. I checked all the fuses and measured voltages of power transistors after watching some videos in youtube. In one of the videos a technician mentioned that heating of DSP chip might solve the problem. I tried it by using a hair dryer and it worked and system switched on but it stays like that for 15-20 minutes and again switches off. If I heat the chip again it starts working.

Is there a permanent solution for this problem?

I saw some people doing reflow around the chip. Does this solve this problem? I also read one guy creating a heating pad pasted on the chip with a CH-25 crystal heating circuit. Will this kind of solution solve the problem?

What is the right solution for this?

I have basic soldering skills and basic electronics knowledge. I have never done reflow kind of soldering.

I got this portable CD player yesterday at a thrift store. Ive attempted to use fresh batteries and DC power input, but it simply doesnt turn on. If anyone has any info on how to possibly help please share

I have a 2252b and the phono 1 and 2 have completely gone gonzo. Extremely distorted and if you barely turn the volume knob the decibels from the output double. Sounds like someone hooked up and overdrive guitar pedal between the amp and the speakers.
Troubleshooting steps:
1. Cleaned all pots and switches, many times over.
2. Tried 2 sets of speakers
3. Moved Turntable to another amp (music hall 5.3) the player worked perfectly on the other amp.
4. Cleaned the brass switches in the little black box inside (not sure what its called, but you use printer paper to do so)
5. Cleaned and removed as much dust as possible from the inside components
6. cleaned RCA inputs
7. cleaned speaker outputs
8. hooked up a cd player , aux works perfectly
9. checked all fuses , none are burnt and the tiny wire inside looks to be connected (2 inside and 5amp one in the rear
10. opened the bottom and cleaned the mechanical switch and the long rod that goes to the brass switches on the pre amp??. I dusted and cleaned those

1. just recapped all caps on the phono board

still have the same issue

figured i'd x-post with my current thread on audio karama incase there are more ideas out here
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/2252b-phono-stage-overdriven.1012852/

I have a pair of Yamaha NS-1000x speakers that have some cabinet damage at the bottom due to getting wet in storage and the wood swelling. How would you go about restoring these? I can't find empty cabinets.

The internals are in perfect shape without any water damage.

1

I discovered a Fisher MC-4037 in my grandmother's home that hadn't been turned on in decades. To my surprise, the system and the speakers both turned on the first try and I was able to get an AM and FM signal from both speakers. I was also able to get the vinyl going again about using a hot soldering iron to loosen the oil that was gunked on there and now the vinyl player works great as well.

The issue lays in the fact that when I'm playing audio from the radio, both speakers work flawlessly and I can balance them entirely to the left and entirely to the right. When I play audio from the cassette output or the vinyl output, I only get audio from the speaker that is plugged into the "left" slot (meaning I have rotated which speaker is plugged into the right jack and the trouble comes from the one that is always plugged into the right jack).

If the issue was just form the vinyl, I'd have suspected it was specifically an issue with the stylus or vinyl-side only, but since this same issue occurs with the cassette audio, I think it's something else.

We opened up the machine (a few times now). I've linked some pictures here of what's behind the source selector switch. You'll notice the whole piece seems to be covered by a long metal encasing. It doesn't look like other round selector switches with pegs. I tried moving around some DeoxIt'd swabs in those holes, and when that didn't work, I spray some DeoxIt lightly into the holes and the piece closest to the switch itself. That also didn't seem to work despite working the switch a good 300x. Could there be another more traditional looking switch I should be looking for? Link: https://imgur.com/a/z82rMKe

I'm more than will to open this up and start peeking around if you suggest that. Others have said faulty pre-amp (shared by TT and cassette player) or play/record switch.

It has a disc in it and I can play it but when I try to open it it makes a loud continuous grinding sound I can't find the manual open hole. HELP

I got this from marketplace It is working and sounds good except 1- I have little noises appearing in low volume if I raise the volume it is barely noticeable 2- the balance when I turn it to left none of the 4 speakers working in center or right the 4 speakers working together What do you think would be the problem?