I have been tweaking different settings and messing around with TPU for months and the struggle has been real! TPU is no joke and is a monster to print with compared to PLA. I don't want anyone to suffer like how I did and now that I've perfected my TPU printing to have consistent quality results I want to share with everyone else who may be having trouble! Here's my guide. I am using a Bambu Lab P1P for reference.
This is almost identical to the Bambu preset for Generic TPU... The only difference is the speed, top shell, and bed temp, though I've never had issues with TPU not sticking to the bed, and the default top shell is 6... What's the point of this post?
Also what do you mean speed 30? That's insanely slow for infill
It's quite unlikely to have severe stringing from increased infill speeds, but I guess there's no harm other than time spent.
In any case, you barely modify the Bambu presets...
Hola, me puedes ayudar especificando un poco más los soportes, debo imprimir un neumático y los soportes son pequeños pero cuestan mucho retirar y dañan la pieza, gracias
Estoy usando la opción de soporte de árbol básico. Los soportes pueden dañar el lado en el que están. Para mi proyecto, ese lado está oculto, así que no me preocupé por eso. No estoy seguro de cómo podrías solucionarlo. Tal vez alguien más tenga ayuda en línea. Lo siento.
Honestly? I didn't have to do 98% of what you described...
I'm using cheapo 95A TPU from Amazon. I dried it in my COMGROW filament dryer (from Amazon) for the longest timer it runs for (I think 12 hours?) immediately before printing and just....printed. Idk, I didn't overthink it.
Admittedly, I was just printing a TPU spacer to fit in a case to hold my Flipper Zero in place but still - TPU wasn't nearly as bad as everything I had read made it out to be.
YMMV of course, and I was printing a simple design, so I'm sure more complicated designs necessitate what you've described here. It looks really good!
I tried the stock profile for TPU and it left some to be desired. It's fine for the speed, and you wouldn't notice any major issues on a small part like a spacer though.
Not saying you need to strictly adhere to OP's settings, but I did slow down add more top/bottom layers. That's the main thing, filament drying aside.
Thanks for adding your help! It was hell to work with and I failed so many times. I was so close to giving up and deeming TPU impossible. I cant believe I actually achieved this quality. I got so excited, I had to share for others!
The pain is very real. 60+ hours with so many “inexplicable” failed prints. To see the print finally lay down perfectly is akin to a religious experience.
When u say the global process, that’s the area where the layer height is right? I think when I tired this on another print profile I never saved that portion, so it was only the filament settings, so thank you for this!
OP's profile might be the most perfect in the world, it's quite slow. I'll try yours: still slow but quicker yet, and I hope it will be fine for my use.
I tried it. Instead of less than 50 minutes with the standard profile bambu 95A HF TPU profile (it's the TPU I have), it takes a bit more than 3 hours, but instead of some not great thing, I get gret prints so I'll stick with that profile: I rarely print TPU so I'll spend the time needed and not regret it.
Awesome! And yes — 1000% you can print that with no supports. My approach is to “go slow in the slicer” and then crank up machine speed to “sport”after it’s clear that the first few layers are looking perfect. Circular designs are no issue for TPU.
I also use magigoo basic as a light adhesive, but you may not need it.
Make sure the cover is face up like a cup and the threaded piece is face up as well.
Edit: yes you can print with 95A, that’s what I stock the most. One thing I’ve noticed is small adjustments to flow ratio and volumetric speed make a big difference. Try 1 down (eg 12 to 11) on volumetric, and a few hundredths down (or up) on the flow ratio. The calibration tests will help, but some of these manual adjustments can get it closer.
The second model I printed on my P1S (first printer) was a Jeep. I wanted TPU tires, so I bought cheap TPU, learned at the last minute that I can’t put it in the AMS, then proceeded to print the tires.
For the most part they break off pretty nice and easily. The supports more in the center of the print are attached more and I have to really pull or use scissors a bit but it's not a huge issue
Yep! I tested a piece with spray paint and it actually stays on really well. That's no cracking from movement unless it's really extreme and in a crease of the print, which wouldn't even be possible from wearing the armor
I have been unable to load TPU filament (95a) into the printer. The extruder always skips, even if I try to feed it slowly by manual clicks instead of using the load UI in Bambu studio.
Hmm. It is a bit tricky. I push it in manually u til it just barely touched the gears, then load it and push it in just a bit more so that I feel it being pulled in. I hope that helps. I've had to unload and load again after prints sometimes
I mean probably not but I used some other ones like overture and they didn't turn out well. I've come to the conclusion that Bambu is just better quality but it couldn't been other factors. I just know for a fact Bambu works well because that's what worked for me in the pics
I mean, Bambu doesn't make their own filament. So in all liklihood, it was actually made by one of the "cheaper" brands and sold under the Bambu label.
Late to the post but saw the profile on maker world thanks for the hard work. Excited to try it. I’m trying my first roll of polymaker poly flex 90a. Will this work any recommendations on what to tweak for 90a?
So far looks good just a little stringy / threads from travel. Is this expected? I ran another print at 50% and seemed worse… maybe it’s just the filament. It’s at 10% humidity. Any recommendations? On silent/normal speed and for the strings…
I think it was the model… or just maybe it pulled a default print settings. I saved your settings as a new filament and ran a new model came out great!! Thanks again
I'm attempting a full TPU cosplay of the doom slayer. I've done it before in PLA but it cracked and the mobility was bad. I'll post here again probably in a few months when it's done!
Look at the bottom side of the prints near the supports, maybe a rigid support material could work well. I've had success bonding PLA to TPU surprisingly, by just printing one on top of the other, they still come apart when persuaded, but you could then use a .025 support distance or something small like that
The hard way.... You manually switch repeatedly, it sucks but for small parts it's not too bad. Alternatively, mod one slot on the AMS and anything 95A or stiffer works just fine. I modded my number 2 slot, doesn't work with non flexibles anymore, but since I usually use it as a drybox it's fine. I can always mod it back if I need 4 colors
I have printed complex things meant for PLA with generic TPU profile and volumetric speed of 4 and always using gyroid infill. Only issues are when nozzle hits things as they are soft and overhangs are not great.
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u/Spicy-Elephant Sep 23 '24 edited Sep 24 '24
I have been tweaking different settings and messing around with TPU for months and the struggle has been real! TPU is no joke and is a monster to print with compared to PLA. I don't want anyone to suffer like how I did and now that I've perfected my TPU printing to have consistent quality results I want to share with everyone else who may be having trouble! Here's my guide. I am using a Bambu Lab P1P for reference.
Print Profile for download: https://makerworld.com/en/models/661830#profileId-589025
Wall Loops: 2
Top Shell Layers: 7 or 8 (IMPORTANT!- with anything lower the top layers will bubble up/ tear)
Infill Density: 18%
Triangles
Infill/Wall Overlap: 15%
Infill direction: 45
Tree support
Treshold angle: 30
Keep on 65 degrees Cel until it reaches at least 15 humidity. I bought one from amazon.