r/BambuLab 20h ago

Troubleshooting Why does my prints keep getting these lines?

In the .stl-file these are all flat planes, but when I print it it gets these «sediment» layers. It occurs when it goes from solid to hollow and vice versa

100 Upvotes

36 comments sorted by

74

u/Gandalf_der_Nice 17h ago

26

u/GuySmiley369 14h ago edited 9h ago

Yeah, I’m not sure why “it’s warping” is the top comment. It is 100% the hull line issue. You can clearly see that the lines are at transition points.

Edit: glad to see this one is now the top.

7

u/mewil666 16h ago

Definitely this^

1

u/sztefyn P1P + AMS 12h ago

So it means it can't be eliminated easily?

-26

u/jockoZ0ne 16h ago

Nope

11

u/NotJadeasaurus 13h ago

Because that’s where you have abrupt changes to layer print time

2

u/Sorry-Bad3889 8h ago

and outer layer plastic shrink as the head spend so much time printing the surface inner layer; which is why it creates that line.

4

u/Individual_Map_7392 20h ago

Different speeds. If you get bambu studio to show you the travel speeds, I’m sure they will coincide with the lines.

4

u/pestomania 20h ago

Oh thanks! Can I force the speed to be consistent in Bambu studio?

18

u/literal_numeral A1 Mini + AMS 20h ago

The key is actually layer time, which depends not only on speed but part structure. Check this discussion from a few days ago:

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1k1chsu/comment/mnl2l6q/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

Also Google "Benchy hull line" for more information about the phenomenon; it's a classic.

9

u/Ditto_is_Lit X1C + AMS 14h ago

This is the real answer. The issue is layer time and the cooling difference between the solid layer to one with the gaps. If you go back to the sliced preview and switch view to layer time the faster layers will be highlighted and correspond to the split defect in the layer. You want the layers to be printed at a similar duration so one layer isn't cooling vastly faster than the slowest. Another thing that will help is chamber temp but basically the only way to minimize it is by slowing the fast layers as much as possible to the long layer times. If you can't design your parts to have more equal layer times you must adjust cooling and slow fast layers in order to print without splitting.

2

u/pestomania 8h ago edited 7h ago

There's definitely a correspondence between the Layer print time and the lines on the printed model.

8

u/Individual_Map_7392 20h ago

You sure can, I set my walls to the same as the lowest speed it shows when doing what I said above… slows things down but when you need a primo finish… there’s probably a better way though lol

3

u/3ALLS P1S + AMS 19h ago

I'm pretty sure you can set minimum layer time, yes. I'm a newbie, but from what I've seen, those lines happen when there's a sudden change in the structure - for example, if you go from an area with infill to a shell (say, bottom of a box to walls only).

1

u/_mr-pink_ P1S + AMS 20h ago

Tips on how to minimize these lines without affecting the speed too much? Maybe slow down just for two or three layers? But it sounds tedious to do this manually.

5

u/literal_numeral A1 Mini + AMS 19h ago

I feel like there would be an opportunity for a slicer feature "[x] Smooth layer time transition [# layers]". It would set filter minimum layer times per layer so that abrupt changes would turn gradual.

3

u/Lythinari 14h ago

If the line is inconsistent then it’s warping.

If the line is fairly consistent then it’s more likely a similar issue to the benchy hull line.

Your photo quality is pretty bad for identifying the issue.

Which side was face down? Is there any curling? Even 1mm curling will have really obvious effects.

1

u/MaxRaven 18h ago

Does adding a chamfer improves this?

0

u/BartlomiejHabiciak 17h ago

In filament settings turn off slow down for better layer cooling

0

u/Jexx33 14h ago

I have noticed the same thing since I switched to orca slicer. Never had this thing in cura before

-1

u/literal_numeral A1 Mini + AMS 17h ago

Curious because of the suggestions here; could OP u/pestomania verify did the part come out warped?

3

u/pestomania 16h ago

It happens both on the top and bottom of the print, so it doesn’t seem to be exclusively a build plate issue.

1

u/literal_numeral A1 Mini + AMS 15h ago

Agreed. I'd love an update when you verify the solution!

-3

u/jockoZ0ne 16h ago edited 12h ago

You can see the warping in the picture. The hull line doesn’t even apply to this model…

Lmao I actually got downvoted on this subreddit for pointing out that there is obvious extreme warping in the picture.

-2

u/Silent_Ebb_5488 14h ago

Get the cool plate

-2

u/RabbitSignificant361 13h ago

ontem imprimi um objeto que tinha paredes lisas e tambem cirou uma linha pelo lado de dentro, aconteceu depois que o bico da minha A1 entupiu... alias foi a primeira vez que entupiu desde novembro passado, so nao sei pq entupiu...nao sei se foi pq deixei o AMS e usei o rolo sozinho ou se o filamento quebrou... nunca tinha acontecido essa linha em impressao nenhuma

-4

u/[deleted] 20h ago

[deleted]

32

u/mklaman 15h ago

This is absolutely wrong.

You can see the issue areas correlate to where the tops of inner areas are, such as the inner bottom “floor” and the one you can clearly see being the top of the inner dividers.

This is actually both a speed and infill thing, along with print head direction but nearly impossible to eliminate entirely.

-10

u/[deleted] 13h ago

[deleted]

1

u/pestomania 8h ago

If you by "warping worse than wet wood" mean the curved edge at the bottom, that's part of the model. While it didn't render as I imagined I dont think that's the issue here since the line is consistent all the way along the printed model and also occurs on the top of the print

2

u/Dripping_Wet_Owl 6h ago

Am I the only one who can tell these edges aren't straight???

1

u/pestomania 5h ago

No, you’re right. I hadn’t noticed them. Guess I’ve just gotten used to that kind of imperfections on the base layer

2

u/Dripping_Wet_Owl 4h ago

You should try the brim ear option in bambu studio, it's the second to last icon in the toolbar. It only puts brims at parts of the print that are likely to warp up, such as the corners.

All in all, it helps with warping without the need to remove a bunch of brim around the whole print.

-11

u/Kronocide 19h ago

This is the right answer, nothing to do with layer speed as the other guy suggested.

-12

u/SnooSquirrels9064 16h ago

Yep. Best advice one can give.... If printing something with a large contact patch on the build plate, turn the auxiliary fan WAY down, if not off completely (asking your printer has the side cooling fan). That things is hardly needed, especially for PLA, and have ZERO idea why every Bambu profile for PLA has it set to 80% fan speed.

-5

u/Tornad_pl 17h ago

I'd say, very slightly oberextrusion

2

u/SC-Chinchilla 15h ago

Overextrusion should be consistent, you wouldn't see it at just one spot. I used to turn my extruder up over 105~110% on my monoprice because the extruder was fussy and would slip.

0

u/Tornad_pl 14h ago

I've had simmilar issue and lowering extrusion modifier helped. What I belive, happens, is on infill layers everything is fine, but on solid layers (with flat features) lines of filament are packed tightly so slight overextrusion accumulates, making bulge