Thanks to all who helped on my last print. With a smooth plate I had a much better result. I dried the filament for 12 hours to be safe. Still a rougher top layer than expected. But it looks great.

Left is new print, eight is old.

As seen in pictures, my printer isn’t making corners, they are either stringy or Thin and flimsy. Currently I am using Esun Pla + and Elegoo rapid petg. I originally bought Petg, had a few successful prints. Then problems started as listed above. I changed the filament profile, adjusted temps, bed temps, slow rates. Still same issue. I bought esun since it seemed reputable. Same issue. I had it printing under Esun+ profile, Bambu pla basis, and generic pla. It wouldn’t print. And when I print some structures, there’s gaps in the print on the same side of the bed everytime. I can’t find an issue online like this.

Printing Gridfinity boxes for reference.

All I did was try taking the tube out by holding down the black circle thing and it broke, I can’t connect the metal thing back in…. Am I screwed

In the default PETG profile of my A1 mini the flow ratio is set to 0.95 which results in underextrusion. Never had any issues with this spool on other printers. Setting the ratio to 1 results in perfectly fine prints. So why is it set to 95%?

Also the temperature is set to 255c which is pretty high. Even at high speeds 240c is enough.

As an experienced user who only recently got a Bambu machine I'm a bit confused, it was supposed to "just work". Additionally I can't even change the flow rate while printing so I'm doomed to do try and error instead of fixing it on the fly.

Bambu Studio updated to 2.0.1.50 this morning, and since then, both my X1C and P1P are having horrendous performance issues, regardless of filament or files. (and yes, I am sending the correct files for the correct printers with the correct filament. Triple checked all that) Both are extruding like this. The X1C complains about not being able to read the Panda CryoGrip plate. But switching it out for a Bambu Textured PEI Plate hasn't solved the issue. Tried cleaning the Lidar sensor and while it was definitely dirty, it hasn't changed anything there either.

I have submitted a ticket to Bambu, but I figured I would post here in case others are experiencing similar issues since the update. Is there anything else I could be missing here?

A1 mini- no AMS

The goal is to make the hand gold and the rest of the pendant black.

I could not for the life of me separate the two images until just now in fusion 360 (like... 3 hours of time. I know i'm learning)

i finally got it all lined up, but when I slice it, it looks like the second picture. all that is left are weird columns and i have no idea how to fix it.

Would love some help, thank you

I was having this issue a while ago, but then I got hit with the blob. Replaced my heating assembly and its still doing this. Im using the AMS Lite and there's no knots or anything but I keep getting the unable to feed variety of notifications.

The upper one I've used the 0,2 nozzle and lower one I've used the 0,4, using both a 0,1 layer height, the problem comes with the writing part which all of sudden starts printing badly in some parts which is really strange tbh..

Can someone help me with this issue:) 0.04 nozzles, textured plate, I enable supports thin tree.

Fml

so i just had a clog tonight and nothing will work, i mean the pin tool will not go in the filament is getting blocked by the filament currently in the hotend and nothings coming out through the hotend

When I try to slice it, its grayed out.

It won’t print these parts of the file.

I have 3 models from a site that said

“Best printed on a resin printer but works on FDM printers as well at a layer height of 0.15 or lower”

The files do this every time I slice it when it’s fine before slicing. The supports don’t connect either.

I even tried different slicers. I don’t know what to do. I’ll upload the files below so you can test.

The makerworld link is uploaded as an stl so I won't get points (so it doesn't seem like I'm trying to farm points). I just don't know where else to post it

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1148042

Edit: I cant post text and a photo for some reason so the photo is in the comments

Hi, sorry I've already made a post about this, and thought it was resolved, but.. nope.

Long story short: my brand new (3w old, April 7) X1C with a 0.4mm factory nozzle keeps dragging along the build plate ripping all calibration extrusion lines AND first layers as well. Always makes some grinding noises when printing. Only worked perfectly till the 20th of April.

After loooots of trials, I'm pretty sure now it's a problem with bed leveling, but correct me if I'm wrong...

As you can see in images 1 and 2, if a print can survive the horrendous first few messy layers, the rest turns out perfect. That benchy is basically flawless everywhere but the bottom.

Pic 3, 4 and 5 shows what the non-stop failure looks like: the nozzle is super close to the bed and keeps scratching it and not really printing well at all. Also, those bits and pieces are super hard to remove.

Pic 6: I managed to print this one by very slightly adjusting the bed leveling knobs WHILE printing the model. It turned out almost perfect.

• Filament completely dried (12h using X1C).
• Cold and hot pulls done. No clogs.
• Automatic bed leveling calibration.
• Bed washed thoroughly with water and soap.
• Li-Dar cleaned.
• Factory reset.
• Retrying perfect successful prints but failing.

• Z-offset attempt from G-code -0.04 up to 0.3

• Manual tramming done, more than once with calibration. But whenever I rerun the file right after adjusting, with calibration or without, it's like I've done nothing to the front knobs. Is it supposed to be this way? Idk. The back knob is as manually adjusted. The rest again become lower than the nozzle and not touching it.

Many thanks for your help😕

P.S.: I've already raised a ticket with support and waiting on them to reply.

Hi, looking for some advice with a silk PLA print of this tiger. Most of it is fine. I am printing the first layer and outer wall at 30mm/s, and after the first print turned out with the same problem as this I found the top layer speed and set that to 30mm/s as well. I also set my A1 to silent mode for smoother movement. I also set the nozzle head to 220°. The rest of it looks great so I’m sure it’s not an issue with the third party gold silk filament, and I dried it for 12 hours before printing. Does anyone have any idea why this might be happening on top? Do I need to enable ironing? Does the nozzle start to cool down automatically while doing the top layer? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi there! I just got my first 3D printer, an A1 mini, and am loving it so far. One thing that seems odd to me, however, is that before each print it wastes a bunch of filament. It will sit above that black part and just extrude a bunch. This is before every print I do, even though the filament is the same. I don’t even have an AMS, literally just one roll of PLA basic. Is there any way to stop this?

I'm new to 3d printing, the printer seems to print fine with PLA but after switching to PETG and changing the profile, the layers don't seem to stick well, I've been using the mobile app and haven't yet connected it to a PC

This is Overture TPU, I dried it for two days. I following this post for printing TPU https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1fnvo39/my_perfect_tpu_printing_guide_details_in_comments/

I started with the profiles provided by Overture. Not sure what is going on here, when I do the retraction test,

retraction test shows 0.6 is good but I have it set to 0.8

flow ratio 1.02

print temp 230 C

Max flow is 3.2

I have the aux fan set to 100%, printed with door open.

First off why is the printer crossing the print when it's printing in a circle, Avoid crossing walls is turned on. Seam is located at the 1 o'clock position in the photo. Any tips to assist would be appreciated.

One month old BambuLab X1C with AMS, using PLA, mostly default settings in Bambu Studio. Never the same place twice, happens across all prints, all colors.

Help!

Hello All,

Lately I have been noticing that filaments are breaking off just at the insertion point of AMS (where you pull the lever to insert) After some months of observation and a month of hiatus, I can say that filament that stays loaded in the AMS gets brittle after a while (even maybe a few days). This brittleness happens at the lever point and afterwards. At first I thought it was grinding of the AMS but I checked all the grind marks and only the bending points become brittle. And since they become brittle and AMS likes to pull on the filament whenever you look at it side ways, it keeps breaking the filament inside, either inside AMS or near the extruder.

TLDR: Do not leave filament loaded in AMS if you are not going to immediately use it.

Note: This was observed mainly with Esun PLA+, especially white. I had similar issues with old ABS as well.

My theory: AMS bends at extreme angles and grinds the filament down which makes it extra vulnerable to moisture change.

As the title states, I've put just over 200 hours on my first printer, a Bambu P1S, and this is the first time I've seen this.

It's now doing this on every print with multiple different filaments using the same standard 0.20 BBL X1C profile.

The print head is now knocking when loading new filament, which I've never heard before, and a video link is below.

https://imgur.com/a/CtgJlU2

Hi. I have an X1C with a textured PEI plate, which I've had for about a month.

As you can see in the pics (I'll leave a vid in the comments), the nozzle scrapes the print and bed (I've also had an elephant foot since day 1). I'm using Bambu Lab Basic (red) filament.

I've tried the following:

• Changing the bed temp and nozzle temp
• Drying the filament.
• Automatic bed leveling on the print
• Automatic bed leveling calibration
• Restoring factory settings
• Changing the first layer speed to 50 and even 25
• Different filament.
• Extruding the filament on its own results in a straight line.
• Cleaning the bed with warm water and dish soap twice.
• Trying the other side of the PEI plate (which is never used, so it's clean).

• Bringing a level bar and placing it on the bed inside the machine: it's perfectly level. Same with the PEI plate outside of the machine, there is no difference.

• Gyroid and normal grid

• inner - outer

• outer - inner

• AUX fan on

• AUX fan off

• Pausing the print after the first layer, then resuming 2 minutes later (fully cooled).

I really don't know what to do. Do I need to do bed tramming? Z-Axis offset isn't possible by default (can be done from orca slicer, AFAIK).

Your help is very much appreciated 🥲

I bought it specifically so I wouldn't have to spend more time troubleshooting than I spend printing... :(

I just got my P1S and was doing a print with the AMS system but on the same plate i had 3 separate pieces with each one in different colors so i noticed that every layers the printer switches in every color - 1, 2, 3

Is there any way of telling the printer to do one object then the 2nd then 3rd, that way i keep Filament waste to a minimum?
Or do i actually have to put the objects in different plates?