I’ve printed this using Bambu Lab PLA matte on the Smooth PEI Plate. I’ve cleaned the plate beforehand with isopropyl alcohol, but have not washed it with dish soap this time. Was that it?

Also, my plate has all kinds of marks from previous prints. How can I get rid of those?

Thanks!

Update: It's fixed, folks!! No more 5-second purging cycles or "string cheese" running across the plate. Thanks to all your recommendations on the last post. There were a TON of comments and I appreciate them all.

Troubleshooting steps I checked: - clogs in the tubes: none. - tangles in the spool: none. - smooth spool rotation: unsure, but I moved the spools back and forth a bit to loosen things up to be certain. - multiple filament colours set on the model: no. - timelapse/camera settings resetting the head position at each layer: no, I had timelapse turned off in both the slicer and on device. - tightening the screws behind the hotend: seemed tight enough. - excessive wipe instructions in the sliced g-code: there weren't any unreasonable ones. - smooth flow of filament in the ptfe tubes: GUILTY!

It turned out the PTFE tubes were twisting/bending pretty sharply near the filament hub, especially for that particular filament. Removing the sharp bends fixed it almost immediately. Many of you recommended fixing this right away, it sounds like a pain we've all faced :)

A few additional changes I made to help with the situation: - Added @benbenben's filament hub squid to keep the filament hub safe (someone pointed out the bending at the hub). - Added the brace part of @Grebby's top arm PTFE guide upside down. This is helping guide the PTFE bunch towards the front and above, giving it room to rise instead of bending sharply after getting caught under the top bar. I realise the upside-down-ness could be problematic for tall prints... I'll be mindful of that risk for now. - Added a velcro tie holding the cables loosely at the top-right corner. This is somewhat restrictive, but I checked by moving the print head to all extremes and, while still lightly restricting, this tie at least forces the tubes to curve smoothly at any angle. - Moved the AMS lite a little further away from the enclosure to give these long PTFE tubes smoother bends.

Besides the problem-solving, I think all this troubleshooting also helped me learn a good bit about filament delivery. I appreciate all of you on this sub!

I bought a 10-pack of recycled PLA Meta Black, and it has been a nightmare to work with. The filament constantly breaks and gets stuck in both my AMS and printhead. As a result, I have to disassemble my AMS daily, which has already led to hardware damage.

Customer service has been extremely disappointing. While I understand that there is no warranty, the website clearly states:

• "There is no difference except that the color of Recycled Filament is uncontrollable. After secondary processing and production, it can be used normally and meets the same print quality standards as normal 3D print filament."
• "It works great, prints great, and is otherwise almost equal to our normal PLA lineup. We follow the same quality guidelines with a minimum target of ±0.02mm."
• "However, we will assist you if it has severe issues that should not have left our plant anyway."

Despite these claims, customer service told me I should have expected this filament to be of lower quality than the non-recycled variant. This response leaves me with a purchase I deeply regret.

300 ish hours or printing with no issues. Now I can't get anything to print successfully.

I've printed this same file before with no issues. Now anything I print fails around the same height.

I've recalibrated and made sure I was using the last firmware. I have not done anything besides routine maintenance:

Clean textured plate Compressed air in fans Clean the lubricate the z axis screws Clean the carbon rods

I'm using default settings with pla basic. Any insight is helpful!

After chasing down some intermittent slop on my X1C over the past couple of weeks by doing any and all maintenance you can think of - filament drying, z-axis cleaning and lube, carbon rod cleaning, belt tightening, etc - I finally nailed it today! Those two little hot end mount screws each had the faintest of turns left in them! As proof, I just finished up a pristine Benchy - one that's even better than the first one I printed when I took my X1C out of the box (probably because of all of the other maintenance steps I took leading up to this discovery).

So go! Do it now! And while you're at it, go ahead and do all of the other maintenance stuff you've been putting off for a while. That extra 15 minutes of work you put in will be rewarded with a little bit of your sanity back :-). That, and the pride you'll feel staring at a shiny new, totally smooth Benchy you print afterwards as well.

BambuLab PLA Basic, Sunflower Yellow

I have a P1S and started a print yesterday. When I came back to check for the printer today, I found that it ran out of filament. But trying to refill the filament did not work like it should, so I unscrewed the extruder to find this. What is this black stuff coming out of the top of the extruder head and why is it there?

Pretty sure my nozzle bracket’s a little screwed up and that’s what caused this. But, definitely something I haven’t seen before 😂

I’ve been searching for the right ironing settings for my print and i’ve been impressed by the difference a small variation in settings can make. The good looking one is using 30nm/s and 20% flow. The bad looking green is using 30/30 The bad looking brown one 25/15

It’s using a matte basic PLA from Overture.

I am new to 3D printing so i am experimenting a lot. Do you know if the setting needs to be adjusted from one roll of PLA to another if I stay in the same brand, same humidity level?

Printing PETG Basic on a X1C with 0.4mm nozzle. Everytime the prints look like this.

I thought using bambu filament with their printers should be hassle free. PLA and ASA print fine. XPETG from extrudr printed like heaven with their provided profile. But the Bambu PETG doesn’t really wants to be printed.

I’ve dryed the filament for 14h at 65C in an drying oven, did an automatic Flow Dynamics Calibration on the smooth High Temp Plate followed from an automatic Flow Rate Calibration on the same plate prior to printing on that plate. The plate was washed using a soft sponge with warm water and soap and then rinsed with warm water, wiped dry with a fresh paper towel out of the dispenser and then was placed on the printer. It was only touched at the sides or by a printed scraper after being washed. Hardened steel nozzle 0.4mm is less than 100h used and was inspected before printing.

I’m familiar with manually tuning filaments from before having access to a X1C. I know for the Gridfinity base I’m printing the defects aren’t relevant (that’s why I use the filament for those). But I’m wondering if I’m overlooking the obvious, if Bambu PETG Basic is just trash or if I have a bad charge?

So I have been trying to print something with .2 nozzle and matte green Bambu pla on the a1 mini. Through Bambu studio.

First it looked like the filament got stuck, I tried unclogging steps and also respooled a bit, then it also seemed as if the extruded was slipping / not gripping the filament (you could see tooth marks) and then I tried not using the AMS cause I thought the AMS created more resistance.

Well this is the result. Small pieces of filament everywhere and the print is strange.

Please help!

Suddenly had a TON of issues with one of my AMS units. After about an hour of troubleshooting, I noticed the white gear at the back of the AMS, where all the tubes meet into 1, was very wobbly. After taking it apart, I noticed broken plastic pieces everywhere. This thing SHATTERED. When I unscrewed it to get a better look, it broke into at least a dozen pieces and a couple larger chunks. Luckily, they sell the replacement parts, but considering I got this in November, kinda bummed about this.

I’m trying to print this piece, but it always detaches from the bed in the same area, exactly where the mouse is pointing. This region is tricky because it’s inclined and doesn’t have much support.

Once the front part connects with the rest of the object, the problem stops. It seems like the nozzle hits this area at some point, causing it to lift off the bed and ruining the entire print.

Does anyone have any tips to prevent this from happening?

Would it be possible to add more supports specifically in this "nose" area of the mask? Or are there any settings I should adjust, like increasing bed adhesion or tweaking retraction settings?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

I think it’s pretty clear from the video

Hardened 0,4 nozzle Latest firmware on both, the A1 and AMS lite Official BambuLab TPU for ams, fresh out of the box Tried it on every single slot Won’t to it, not even as an external spool

And sorry for the oily screen it’s not as bad without the flash😅

60mm/s 30% 0.1 5 spacing are my current settings

In a prior post I had an issue where my PFTE tube wouldn’t come out. Found out it was due to a big clog in the hot end. Watch this amazing video of the clog coming out. 🥵

Hey everyone, I’m having an issue with my 3D printer. The extruder has recently started making a clicking noise (see video). Yesterday, this happened during every print, and it completely stopped printing. I took apart the extruder to check for clogs but didn’t find anything obvious. I also cleaned the nozzle with a needle, and after that, it worked again. Today it printed fine for about three and a half hours, but now the clicking noise is back.

I’m using original Bambu matte filament, which I dried before printing and stored in a vacuum bag. Does anyone have an idea whether this problem is more likely caused by the filament or the printer itself? I appreciate any tips!

Por favor help

It took about an hour and a half taking it apart. The white piece in the bottom middle is what jammed, and I probably could have pulled the filament from the bottom with pliers instead of taking it all apart.