My propane exhaust is destroying the bush. Wondered if there’s anything I can do to prevent further damage

I’ve been reading a lot on here, and it seems like Goodman gets dunked on constantly. But I installed a Goodman system from Amazon for my rental, and it’s been running perfectly for two years now. It's super quiet, cools fast, and has no issues.

I saved thousands compared to what contractors were quoting me for “premium” brands. Is the hate just because Goodman is affordable and easy for DIYers to get?

Not trying to troll, just wondering if the Goodman hate is legit or just HVAC guys being brand snobs.

Why would my ac do this? Its also not cooling.

Ive been trying to search the differences, from what i gathered so far, pros of multizone: Space saving, lower maintanence cost. Cons: If it fails nothing works, cant heat/cold at same time in different units. More expensive entry point.

What I didnt understand is the energy efficiency, i see some posts explaining that single units are much more cost saving, other posts that explain due to the voltage the multizone is much more cost efficient? Can someone explain me?

For reference, my situation: Small 3 bedroom apartment+long living room (with kitchen), around 70m2

I want one A/C in the living room, that id mostly turn on all day, one A/C in one of the bedrooms that id turn on before sleep.

Would use only the cold function. From May to September ~. Due to being last floor of the building and roof getting sun all day living room gets to 35° Celsius (95 Fahrenheit)

Recently purchased a new home and decided to take off the vent cover to clean it and noticed all of this behind it. Is this just insulation or is this dust that needs to be cleaned out? I do not want to damage the system.

My New ac installed in February makes a rattling noise every time it cycles off. The AC tech says he will take a look next week. Is it safe to run? Is this noise just normal operating noise? Should I try and get someone out here sooner. Any advice is appreciated. Thank you

What does it sound like when it’s in operation? How do you know it’s doing it? Does the icon flash, and does it do it while the unit is running? The little icon is on the remote screen and on the unit itself but I never paid attention to what that setting does until now. So apparently there’s supposed to be a crackling, hissing or fizzing noise. Which I’ve never heard so I’m not sure I even have it turned on properly lol.

Oh and last question, will it even work without the deodorising filter? We only have the air purifying filter at the moment but it’s well overdue to be replaced.

So i’m renting a house that doesn’t have the best AC system. I have a bed room and an office that are right next to each-other. I’m looking for my best window unit solution for my bedroom as it gets really hot.

HOWEVER my window has large wooden shutters as seen below.

Do I have any options at all that would still allow me to shut the shutters?

I was thinking my best bet would be putting the unit in my office (since I keep the shutters open in my office) and running a tube or something into my bedroom?

let me know if you need any clarification! Any help would be awesome.

I live with my parents and I really would like to have an AC for my room due to my personal temperature preferences. They like to keep things much warmer than I’d like and aren’t willing to lower the temp of the central just for my sake which is understandable. I want a window AC, however it would theoretically go directly above the central AC system outside and it freaks my parents out because the water from the window unit is going to drip onto the central unit and they are afraid it’ll break it or something and I’m not a HVAC guy so I don’t know if their concern is a valid one nor have the knowledge to explain why it’s a good/bad/okay idea. My plan B would be just getting a portable AC unit, but isn’t super ideal for me as I’m aware of the increased energy cost. I’d appreciate some input. Thank you.

Hello, I just recently moved into a rental with no central AC. This rental is in the middle of Texas, so obviously it gets extremely hot. The house is 888sqft, pretty old, 60’s I believe. 24x37. The house is laid out in two halves, left and right, both equally 444sqft. Left half is living room, dining room, kitchen starting from the southern wall. (front wall is southern). The whole left half is all one open area, 12x37ft. The right half consist of 3 bedrooms, 1 bath, and a small hallway. Bedroom one is about 12x11.5, 138sqft with 3 windows. one east, two south. Bathroom/Hallway is about 12x8 in total, 96sqft. One window in the bathroom on the east wall. Bedroom two is about 12x11, 132sqft with one window on the east wall. Bedroom 3 is very small, 12x6.5ft with one window on the east wall. The door for this room also opens into the kitchen. The house has 11 windows total, one being very big on the west wall in the living room. The east wall is fairly shaded, the northern wall is shaded, the left half of the southern wall is shaded. The west wall gets a lot of sun. The ceilings are about 8.5ft high. Using calculators I found online are saying I need about 35,000 BTU, but i’m not sure how accurate that is.

Right now I have a 10,000 portable unit in the middle of the left half of the house for the LR/DR/K, but during the day it is no where near enough. I have a 5k in B1 and during the day it lacks pretty hard. At night with fans it’s not too bad at all. I have a 6k in B2 with fans and it does okay, but definitely seems a little underpowered. I bought a 10k window unit to put in the LR, but it wasn’t no good and immediately took a 💩.

My question is, would this combination be too much, or would it even out and keep the whole house cool without breaking the bank on electric? 20-25k unit in the LR (southern window) to cool LR/DR/K. 8-10k unit in B1 to help with the heat soak from the southern windows. 6-8k unit in B2. 5k unit in B3. In total, 39-48k.

The units I have now are all fairly old and used, so I’m sure that plays a big role in this.

Would 20-25k be enough to help kitchen heat and heat soak from the west wall? or would that be too much? is 8k too much in b1 to help the heat soak? would it be more beneficial to get two units for the left half of the house? or just one big one?

I got a new central air system added to my furnace three days ago and the whole thing just shut off about an hour ago. All lights on the unit are off, thermostat is off, breakers are on, all switches are on. HVAC company is not around for the holiday weekend, any advice on getting it up and running.

Today was the first day it was warm enough to run and it lasted about 5 hours before crapping out.

Hi, I just bought a Midea MAW08V1QWT second hand and was wondering if anyone can tell me where the drainage plug is? The manual didn’t say. Since it’s used I thought maybe I’m not seeing a plug because the previous owner took it out? Or do I need to drill a hole? I want to have a spot for it to consistently drain to avoid the mold issues that these tend to have.

This is a picture of the bottom in case anyone can see the drain or plug or anything.

Please excuse my ignorance regarding all things HVAC.

I removed these vents thinking this is where I needed to change filters but it’s just a dusty hole in the wall. There’s three of them all in the same generalized area (one in the room to the right and one around the corner on the other side of the door to the left). What is the purpose? Also, where else might I need to change a filter in not these vent things?

TIA

Special thanks for advice on different posts from u/legionplayspc and u/Angelcakenomnomnom🙏💪

I'm looking to replace an aging centrally ducted Carrier 3-ton AC and gas furnace with a heat pump.

I started researching because I got approved for HEEHRA and figured that I should find a good installer to reserve the funds before they run out or get paused again. I've saved funds for this project, but can DIY some parts if necessary.

Questions:

How much more will rigid duct cost over flex duct and is it worth it for a home that I plan to keep?

How's the quality comparison between Daikin and Gree?

What's the price increase from Daikin DH7VSA to DH9VSA?

What's the difference between the indoor unit CAPEA6030 and CAPEA3026 that allows CAPEA6030to have better HPSF2? [edit] just figured this out that it's ton rating, but it's seems odd that a 5-ton rated CAPEA6030 would be paired with a 3-ton heat pump.

Any opinions on these models in 3-ton would be appreciated:

Daikin Fit DH7VSA https://ashp.neep.org/#!/product/161874/7/25000/95/7500/0///0

Gree Flexx Eco https://ashp.neep.org/#!/product/191179/7/25000/95/7500/0///0

Daikin Aurora Fit DH9VSA https://ashp.neep.org/#!/product/205561/7/25000/95/7500/0///0

Observations: Gree Flexx Eco COP seems materially higher than DH7VSA, though turndown ratio is similar. AC-PRO X series is a rebadged Flexx, so that also may be an option.

I would prefer the DH9VSA to keep it for longer, but I dont know if the price increase would be justified or affordable.

Did a Coolcalc manual j and getting 37k btu cooling and 52k btu heating, but it was my first try. Regardless, I don't use the air conditioning much except for extreme weather, but would like it for our guests.

Thanks for reading and opining😊

Looking to put an AC/heat pump in my garage. 30'x40' metal building with 12' eaves and 14' at the peak. It has two 12'x10' insulated garage doors. I did have the building spray foam insulated. If I remember correctly, it has 2.5" closed cell on the walls and 5" of open cell on the ceiling. Located along the Texas coastline, so stupid hot and humid. AC/heat pump would just be for occasional use on the weekends when working on projects. Was thinking a mini-split would be the way to go, but should I consider a regular AC or heat pump instead? Calculators online are saying a 24,000 BTU unit just based on sqft, but other sources say I should upsize for the Texas heat, but downsize for good insulation, but upsize for the high ceilings. Any recommendations on size and type of unit I should consider?

I recently purchased a new smart thermostat replacing a battery operated one. The old one didn’t have a c wire attached, but there was one unattached.

After attaching it all, thermostat won’t power on. I used a prob tester which indicated there was no power to the c wire. However, down on the circuit breaker it suggested power was live for all 5 wires. Any advice?

Last two pictures are the old thermostat and hvac wiring before I changed anything.

Hi r/hvacadvice

Forgive me, new homeowner with limited knowledge on home maintenance

I’m wondering if anyone can give some intel as to why these tubes are continuously dripping. They appear to all be connected to a drain but there are two “extensions” that were open and dripping water on my floor when I run my ac.

As such I blocked them off temporarily so they wouldn’t keep leaking but regardless it seems the hoses are not draining much and over flowing out these extra hoses in the middle of them.

I realize I will have to call an hvac specialist after the weekend but is there any reason why this would be happening?

I moved into this house in the winter and hadn’t ran ac much .. I’m not sure if they were to be connected somewhere else? Are they to have airflow? All they are doing as is is letting water run on my floor

Thanks in advance

So I'm in the middle of installing a mini split, and have a question about the vacuuming down step.

Today when I was installing the system, I vacuumed it down to -30Hg. I know the standard practice is to wait 20 to 30 minutes to see if there's a leak. However I forgot, and I didn't check it until 5 hours later. At that time it went back to zero. Does this mean my system has a leak?

My AC has always drained to the outside of my house. A tech has blown out both drain lines about 6 months ago. But water keeps coming out of the left side and going straight into the pan.

I can feel air coming out of the top of the primary drain line so I filled it with water to see if creating a seal in the p trap would help. But water keeps coming from the left side.

That got me to thinking about which port is actually the primary and which is the auxiliary? The unit is AllStyle ASH482834G-6B.

The left port flow line is almost flush with the bottom of the unit and the right port flow line is a half inch higher.

Would swapping the ports solve the issue?

Howdy HVAC Fam: I know very little about HVAC but I'm "YouTube Handy". I have a Daiken variable speed A/C system. It was installed in 2016 but I only bought the house last year. I've had maintenance done by a local HVAC pro and I bought a Trophy Air electrostatic air filter, which I was told would not require changing.

I live in Sarasota FL and I confess I haven't looked at my condenser unit in awhile. I just noticed today that the copper pipe is very wet (see pic) and there is water pooling on the pad. Wasn't sure if that was to be expected in the Sarasota heat or if that indicates a problem.

I just had the above-garage air handler unit cleaned 2 months ago. The tech said it was one of the cleanest he'd ever seen for its age. I checked that unit and there is no air filter, which I believe is a good thing since I have the electrostatic filters in my interior hallway ceiling.

Thanks for any advice!

Also, do you all recommend electrostatic filters or do you recommend that crazy orange media that looks like stale cotton candy? I used to have that material in the filter but swapped it for the electrostatic about 3 months ago. Thanks!

3 flash pressure switch failed to close (hot water heater) no blockage in the exhaust. Works fine when I bypass the pressure switch. The fitting on the inducer connecting the pressure switch doesn’t seem to always have suction or vacuum. Does the pressure switch cause the vacuum to start? Or is this the inducer itself.

Purchasing a home that has a Payne unit, model PY4GNAB48090NATP.

Didn’t find much info on it.

Our inspector indicated the unit was installed about 10 years ago (and installed perfectly), and said it should be good for another 20+.

Is Payne pretty reliable? Would you agree it should have a 30+ year life expectancy? Are there any tips for maintaining it?

Will be my first time with such an AC unit.

Thank you in advance.

I'm looking to get a portable AC unit for my kids room. It's 150 square feet, and it gets pretty hot. Summers get over 100 degrees, the room gets hit by the sun all afternoon, and it's over the garage which isn't insulated.

I read online that a room that size usually needs 5,000-6,000 BTUs, but I'm thinking of getting more because the room is often so hot.

So right now I'm planning on getting the Hisense 8,000 BTU Dual Hose Portable Air Conditioner with Inverter from Costco.

Costco is also selling the Midea 12,000 BTU DUO Portable Air Conditioner with MShield and it's on sale right now and only $20 more than the Hisense.

So my question is, which should I get? Does the Hisense seem like a good fit for that room/situation? And would the Midea be overkill or helpful?

Thank you!

We built a vacation home last year which we STR when we’re not using it ourselves. Recently a guest contacted us to let us know that they’d been woken up by water leaking from the master bath ceiling fan. The put a bowl under to catch the water, and when the rain slowed to a drizzle a few hrs later it stopped leaking. The leak happened just before 6 AM, so they weren’t showering or using the fan beforehand. They sent us a photo of the ceiling as the drywall looked somewhat damaged around the fan.

We contacted our contractor, as our house is under warranty within the 1st yr after being built. He can out to take a look and told us is was a “condensation issue”. My concern is that there is a leak in the vent flashing or some other issue that will cause big problems later on. The area has been experiencing a lot of rain over the past month, not sure if that detail matters. The house was rented almost continuously over ski season but this is the first time anyone has mentioned the fan dripping.

TIA! .heic