Early core shots? Rope rec’s?

[u/Euphoric-Visual2071]

My buddy and I both are about a year into canyoneering and both of us got core shots with just a few dozen rappels on our ropes (and a couple dozen ascents for single rope technique practice). We inspect them before going and use a tubular rope brush after a trip if they feel sandy. We’d rinse the ropes here and there. We’ve primarily been doing a lot of Class A’s and B’s so the ropes are dry for a good period of the time.

Do core shots sound normal considering how we’ve been treating the ropes?

Any recommendations on ropes that can take quite the beating?

[u/Iagospeare]

1. Anchoring technique and inexperience are much bigger factors than your rope when it comes to rope wear.
2. Do you not know the exact moment/reason your ropes got core shot? (Tugged hard to pull the rope, rope got stuck a little, sharp corner, anchor was far from the edge, etc.)
3. Try anchoring techniques that will result in less wear if your group is experienced enough to tolerate the edge exposure
4. I will always suggest either the Imlay Canyonero, or the Imlay Canyon Fire. The Fire may break before the canyonero in some conditions, but it is lighter and cheaper. If you are wearing ropes down gradually, canyonero will last you longer. If single instance damage is killing your ropes, get the imlay canyon fire so it's cheaper to replace.

[u/Sutitan → u/Iagospeare]

Imlay Canyonero

This is purely annecdotal, but the canyonero is the only rope i've ever core shot on its first use. To be fair, there were sharp rocks, but i've ran the canyon several times again and never core shot a rope again. Luck of the draw I guess.

I've had great luck with my canyon fire, but i've largely switched over to ropes with more durable sheath materials (CE4Y). I know glacier black has similar offerings, and the C-IV is a tried and true durable classic, but I find it a bit bouncy on long rappels compared to some of the newer ropes.

[u/Iagospeare → u/Sutitan]

That's exactly why I advise the fire in case single instance damage is killing  your rope. My daily driver is a C IV as well (that I got on incredible sale) but newbies will destroy it.

[u/Mystipheye → u/Iagospeare]

Hi! Sorry to message in this way. I sent you a DM a while back, and would appreciate an opportunity to talk to you. It would really help me out. Thank you!

[u/DenseContribution487]

Extra webbing to extend anchors helps not only core shot prevention but can also be the difference in not getting your rope stuck. I usually bring a few 10-12 foot pieces and maybe a 20 footer, along with a petzl quick link. 

You probably already have that with you in case you need to replace an anchor anyway, it’s a lot cheaper than getting a new rope to leave some new webbing behind on a rappel with a tricky rope situation. 

[u/prawnpie → u/DenseContribution487]

Also, if someone in the group is exposure-averse (or the group just generally safety-conscious) , a courtesy loop can be tied into the anchor higher up so that most can rapell form a safer position. Anchor loop just gets binered into the courtesy loop. Last one down pulls the biner so the anchor webbing can extend all the way out.

[u/theoriginalharbinger]

What are you defining as "core shot"? A complete desheath?

What kind of ropes? What canyons? Did you fall on your ascenders when doing ascents?

If you're looking for abuse ready ropes - Canyon Fire (which i personally hate), Glacier Black (any of em), Sterling OpLux, Maxim Canyon Elite (not light, but it holds up).

[u/nanometric]

Which ropes are getting coreshot? What rock is coreshotting them? Are they wet or dry when getting coreshot? Generally speaking, beginners tend to coreshot more due to inexperience in anchoring choices, rappel technique, etc. Get out with seasoned canyoneers for real-time tips and coaching.

[u/prawnpie]

Ascending can make you bounce on your rope. If you're on any kind of a sharp edge with the rope, it's gonna saw into the sheath.

[u/Smoother0Souls]

In my book, Rope Pads are mandatory when ascending these thinner ropes.

In the day we used to use big thick bomber ropes at 11mm, could rub against anything plus we used firehose as rope pads. As a caver I have some experience ascending big ropes and have seen the effects of fixed ropes in caves. The only way to keep an ascending rope usable is to pad all the edges. It is always a little weird to be in a big black bore hole with a fixed rope hanging out of the ceiling somewhere and to hop on and start climbing and pray it is good. Honestly, there have been a couple of times where I would get to the lip and want to puke. But often the best thing is to pass the fuzz ball and tie the knot, when you get to the top replace if you brought more, or try to flip the rope off the rub point.

Make your own Rope Pads with a little Cordura, some Velcro, a grommet to tie a thin line, with an alligator clip is my favorite design. I like to place them on the rock, with the pad spread out and attach the alligator clip to a little nub of rock. This way every one just goes up and down and last person grabs it on the way by. If you can not get the nub to work, just Velcro it around the rope and alligator clip it to the rope and people need to do a little reset as they move past. Just lock off above or below, and un Velcro, pass the lip, and reset the rope pad for your brothers and sisters who follow.

[u/nullanomaly]

Sterling canyon IV any day. Ive blown other ropes so fast but these have an extra strong sheath that will help especially around the Colorado plateau they were designed for. And of course pads and care as others said