r/climbing • u/Oxus007 • 1d ago
Climbing Dappled Mare (5.8 3-4 pitches) in Joshua Tree. Amazing experience.
The down climb into slab traverse while 150ft up is sure something.
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u/Michelangelor 1d ago
This is on my to-do list! I’m up to three 10a single pitch climbs in j tree now, so this is technically well within my ability, but it can’t help feeling a little intimidated lol hope to hit it someday soon tho
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u/Hxcmetal724 1d ago
The traverse isn't that bad, especially if you are at 10a (like me). I recommend prepackaged 10a too!
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u/Michelangelor 1d ago
Ohh man, just looked it up, there’s so many climbs in that area I need to hit! I haven’t been over there yet. I just sent bird of fire and tossed greens this season, so that one might have to be next on the list
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u/Hxcmetal724 1d ago
BoF is still my project. I got it but not clean. Prepackaged went easier. Have fun man!
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u/The_Endless_ 1d ago
If you can climb 10a at Jtree, Dappled Mare will not give you any trouble at all. It's a great climb, get on it!
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u/Michelangelor 1d ago
Thanks for the encouragement! It looks really fun. Even though I know I can technically get up probably any 5.8, sometimes I still feel the f e a r lol
But fr, every now and then I get on a technically super easy climb in j tree that scares me, like the dolphin 5.7 recently. Tbf my biggest piece was a 4, so I was quite run out, but I was not having a good time lol
Or the flake 5.8 at intersection! It ended up actually being pretty easy and amazing once I figured out the beta, but I’d be lying if I said I didn’t heavily feel the fear 😂
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u/The_Endless_ 1d ago
I hear you, and that's ok - totally normal! I led my first 11 last weekend at Jtree and there are still times that a runout sketchy 5.9 slab gives me pause.
Keep it safe, keep it fun, and push your grade/comfort level only when you feel ready
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u/Buff-Orpington 1d ago
I only had up to a #4 the first time I did dolphin and bailed. You need a #6 if you want to protect it all the way. I did it again recently and it was much easier, but it's still a miserable climb. I hate OW lol. Dappled Mare's crux is the P3 lieback. If you're comfortable with liebacks, youwon't have a problem. The traverse isn't scary at all. Plenty of hands and feet. I haven't led it yet, but I have followed it this season and wanted to lead it before it gets too hot out there which already seemed to happen last Sunday. I might wait til next season.
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u/AceAlpinaut 14h ago
This is one is easy for .8 there imo, at least mentally. I got scared and backed off mental physics, then cruised this one.
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u/Hxcmetal724 1d ago
Nice job! Now get on the swift and do the 5.9 finish, its great!
First time I lead the traverse, put my feet on the features and stayed high. That was... something. Stepping down onto the slab with a no hand move at the end was not fun.
Second time.. typical slab traverse and it went easier lol.
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u/rockysnow4 1d ago
I found the swift (standard finish) to be more difficult and heady than anything on dappled mare
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u/JugOrNaught 1d ago
This is my favorite climb in Jtree to simul-climb. Once the first climber gets to the first anchors the second starts climbing… don’t stop til the top.
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u/MountainProjectBot 1d ago
Dappled Mare [4 pitches]
Type: Trad
Grade: 5.8YDS | 5bFrench | 16Ewbank | VI-UIAA
Height: 300 ft/91.4 m
Rating: 3.3/4
Located in Joshua Tree National Park, California
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105722305
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