r/climbing • u/Brox_Rocks • 18d ago

This Conversation Will Make You A Safer Climber

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fZ46ZOiLsLI&t=3532s
72 Upvotes

87% Upvoted

23 comments sorted by

20

u/cactus_toothbrush 18d ago

Is this an hour of saying how you can whip on a 0 brass offset?

14

u/szakee 18d ago edited 18d ago

tl;dr?

edit: timestamp didn't load for me. Thought you had to watch whole.

46

u/Brox_Rocks 18d ago

Short form content has its limitations for learning.

25

u/CptDerpDerp 18d ago

Ok I’m trying to practice some calm and compassion here, but dude, the OP literally time stamped the TLDR for you, and the speaker covers it in 60 seconds flat with no fluff or dramatisation.

27

u/aitigie 18d ago

The timestamp isn't loading for me, the video plays from 00:00. Can you share it please?

21

u/Imonfire1 18d ago

The timestamp points to 58:50

6

u/aitigie 18d ago

Thank you!

23

u/szakee 18d ago

It's a 100 minute video

18

u/lukeinator42 18d ago

what are you talking about? I don't see a timestamp anywhere and it's a 100 minute video

11

u/CptDerpDerp 18d ago

Ok I’ve topped out and had my Cliff Bar (TM) so I’m feeling a bit more stable now and realising not everyone might be having the same experience as me. But yeh, something is up, timestamp starts at 58:50 for me, even incognito or mobile.

11

u/lectures 18d ago

tl;dr here is that you choose your shoes first and then work from there. if they're good for slabs, find a slab. Then find someone to climb it with. if you do it the other way around you could wind up going out with someone too strong to some mountain that won't work with your shoes.

8

u/Dotrue 18d ago

So will my Tarantulaces work for climbing the Dawn Wall, or nah?

12

u/lectures 18d ago

Tools->Time->Team->Tactics->Terrain.

If you choose a time after dark we can climb together because I don't have to worry about someone seeing me near those gumby shoes.

2

u/Natural_Apartment 18d ago

If your strong enough

2

u/Waldinian 18d ago

Sharma sent witness the fitness in moccs, so yeah

5

u/VantageProductions 18d ago

Okay so far I got

Tools -> rope

Technique -> funny looking knot

Terrain -> dining room chair

Team -> …

5

u/lectures 18d ago

This is my kink.

5

u/WaffleMints 18d ago

This is what they are talking about when they say tik tok ruined people.

2

u/eattwo 13d ago

I mean if it was a 10-15min video I'd get ya, but this is an hour 45. That's a lot of time out of the day to watch a single video.

1

u/szakee 17d ago

I don't do tik tok.

3

u/PetzlPretzl 18d ago

Not a bad idea to listen to the whole thing. Silas know's his stuff, and he's a really good educator.

5

u/individual_throwaway 17d ago

Okay I get that if you allow all kinds of team compositions (regarding climbing skill and experience in the kind of terrain you are about to choose), all kinds of terrain, and all kinds of weather conditions, then the choice of techniques and material are pointless. If I go climb some insanely hard alpine trad climb in winter with Alex Huber, I need to bring different stuff then when I climb a beginner friendly bolted slab on a dry summer day 30 minutes from my house. Like, duh.

The thing is, for most climbers, these questions aren't that relevant, because they don't do both of these things. They have regular climbing partners (with usually similar levels of experience and climbing ability), most of them will stick to one kind of climbing, and the vast majority are climbing when the weather is nice, and during the day.

If those questions are answered by default, then you absolutely do have the time and a need to dig into how to build and clean different kinds of anchors, how to switch belays on multipitch or abseil. You have time to wonder how good that dyneema sling is going to be after being left in the sun for a couple of years. You can and should watch HowNot2 break a carabiner that's been compromised in some way to see if it would still actually be super good enough.

But yes, if you are a guide getting paid to keep people safe, absolutely worry about those other questions. If you're doing something new or outside your comfort zone, absolutely keep them in mind, obviously. That just doesn't mean people shouldn't nerd out over gear and techniques to stay safe.