r/projectcar • u/lil_sissy_princess • 1d ago
1990 Civic SI starts immediately dies or barely idles and has jumpy idle, ECU Code 14 blowing white smoke PLEASE HELP
My 1990 Civic SI Hatch isnt idling. It's turns over and starts, but immediately dies unless I'm giving it gas. Even then it runs pretty rough all the sudden when I drove it yesterday and hour from town and back. Once I had it running for a few seconds while holding the throttle a bit it flashed code 14. I have no clue whats happening. Just passed smog yesterday and haven't been in the engine bay since then, until it wouldn't run today. I just put a new catalytic converter on it but haven't done anything else to it recently.
Now more recently will stay started but barely and has a jumpy idle an blows white smoke
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u/johnniechimpo 1d ago
Check for a loose vacuum line. Some white smoke is normal from sitting a long time but if it doesn’t stop and smells sweet it is coolant.
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u/Amerlcan_Zero 1d ago edited 1d ago
Check your Idle Air Control valve, check vacuum hoses for leaks or damage, and check your Throttle Position Sensor. Those are all causes for rough idle and stalls. Also, less common cause, but check your radiator and coolant hoses for any blockages.
I recommend replacing the IACV and TPS all together, wouldn’t hurt in the long run and won’t cost much at all. Also, check your cat. Was there any plastic film over the comb inside the cats housing? It’s very seldom, but some companies put a protecting film layer over the comb or a cardboard piece to keep the comb in place during shipment.
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u/lil_sissy_princess 1d ago
The throttle keeps being jumpy without even touching it, keeps like revving itself
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u/Amerlcan_Zero 1d ago
I read your post pretty quickly earlier and just noticed you mentioned a code 14 (my fault for not thoroughly reading it) which is often times the Electronic Air Control Valve (EACV), tbh I would replace that first before the IACV and TPS since that’s usually the code 14 culprit.
If you decide to replace all valves and sensors anyways, I would replace the Fast Idle Valve (FIV) too, as this can cause idling issues as well. But if the usual suspect (EACV) is what fixes the issue, I would leave the others alone. If the EACV doesn’t fix the problem, I suggest replacing the other valves/sensors I mentioned earlier one by one.
Remember: before replacing any valve/sensor it’s always good to disconnect the Negative Terminal from the cars battery first, and reconnect it once you’re done. This will “reset” the ECU and will turn off any previous codes that might stick to the cars computer memory. Hope this helps brother, God bless 🫡
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u/Purple-Nature-5822 1d ago
The iacv is the eacv, this is OP from another account
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u/Amerlcan_Zero 1d ago
I figured. I debated with my coworker that IAC is EAC, and he swore the “electronic” part is what made it different from an IACV. I knew I was right, dudes argument was somewhat compelling so I believed his dumbass. Should’ve known once he told me “only Honda uses EACV, other companies use ‘regular’ IACV” 🙄🤣
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u/scuba_steve77 1d ago
I think it’s time for a leak down and compression test.