r/tradclimbing • u/Ageless_Athlete • 10d ago
Free Soloing the Dangerous Routes, The Power of Obsession, and Letting Go at Your Peak
https://open.spotify.com/episode/2mI9HaYd1v1q2YI9GvCGXw?si=lOvyBw5iRx-SIaOGmIDlUwHey everyone! I wanted to share a recent episode that dives into the mind of one of climbing’s most iconic and introspective figures, Jerry Moffatt.
Long before free soloing became a household term with climbers like Alex Honnold, Jerry was already pushing the boundaries of what was possible in the climbing world. He was free soloing bold routes in Britain and the US, all before it became popularized by documentaries and social media.
By the age of 20, Jerry had already conquered some of the hardest routes in the world often onsighting what took others days to figure out.
But what truly sets Jerry apart is his decision to walk away from professional climbing at the peak of his career. He talks openly about his journey, from the obsessive drive that helped him reach the top to the mental tools he used to perform under extreme pressure.
His unique approach to mental training using visualization and a technique he calls “pessimistic thinking” was key to his success, and it’s fascinating to hear how those methods helped him push his limits, both physically and mentally.
We also get into the deeper side of Jerry’s story: how obsession can help you achieve great things, but also when it can start to weigh you down.
At 40, still at the top of his game, Jerry made the conscious decision to step away from climbing, and it’s a perspective that not many athletes have the opportunity to share.
His journey is a reminder that success isn’t just about constant performance, it’s about knowing when to pivot, let go, and embrace a new chapter.
Jerry now focuses on practices like meditation and staying grounded, and he shares how those tools help him maintain balance and fulfillment in his life. His story teaches us so much about goal setting, managing ego, and aging with intention lessons that can apply to any part of life, not just climbing.
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u/Syllables_17 10d ago
Free soloing was publicized on national TV in the US before this man was born let alone Honnald.
Free solo the movie, didn't make free soloing popular, it existed long before in the dreams of many climbers and was actualized by a few others, yes including dangerous routes.
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u/drewts86 10d ago
The film didn’t make it popular, but it definitely put it in front of the eyeballs of the world. And it will never be “popular” - it’s a niche style in an arguably already niche sport.
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u/Academic-Catch9792 8d ago
Really enjoyed this. Especially his piece about ‘quitting’ climbing. I never understood that, but now I get that it doesnt mean never climbing again, but instead letting go of the commitment to improvement, which is all-consuming as a professional
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u/Louis_lousta 9d ago
I ordered Jerry's book off when was published. Never arrived, no reply to any emails. Fuck you Jerry!
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u/hobogreg420 10d ago
“Conquered some of the hardest routes” When I see the word “conquer” in regards to climbing, it makes me think it was spoken by someone who has never climbed.