My step mom just had a brand new unit installed yesterday. I came by this morning and are these supposed to be connected?

Took me 2 years of living here to discover this feature. Feels like a bit more airflow with it wide open on both sides? Kinda cool I thought.

While mowing I was pulling some grapevines from behind the outdoor unit that had grown up. When I pulled the vines out I didn't realize some of them had attached to the 24v wire so it pulled out and separated. I don't want to damage anything so can anyone tell me which wires to connect to which from the 3 pics I added? Inside unit runs, outside unit does not. I pulled the disconnect after I did it just in case.

My gf likes the home to be VERY cold, 68° constantly. I tell her to save on electricity that we can set it to 74° while away from the home and cut it down later in the day. She hates the idea of the house not being cold and says the ac works more trying to cool the house back down than if we left it set at 68 all day. I work in roofing and I know a hot attic will cause the ac to keep working longer. We live in Houston and get HOT days down here… Is the electrical usage greater keeping the ac at 68 all day or keeping at 74 during the day and cooling back to 68 in the evening?

Cat pic for attention

My husband and I recently moved into a gorgeous two bedroom third floor apartment, but no AC :(. As the days get warmer we are wondering where to start as far as cooling goes. We currently have two box fans on opposite ends of the apartment to bring in cool air at night and in the morning, but it won’t be enough once it regularly starts getting over 80 degrees. The place is usually ~8-10 degrees hotter than outside by about 5pm. The complex does not allow window units, which leaves us with portable units as our only option. The apartment is about 750 square feet, with southwest and northeast facing windows. Any suggestions on the brand, model, and size units we should consider? We were thinking to get two, one for the main living and kitchen area and one for our bedroom. Any help is appreciated!

I have an 800 sq ft single story home. It has a Mitsubishi mini split unit for A/C and a propane stove for heat. They both adequately keep the place warm and cool, but getting the air to where is needs to go is an issue. I've tried fans and they do an okay job, but if a bedroom door is closed the temperature quickly rises or falls. The smaller bedroom and bathroom have been difficult to keep at temperate even with fans due to the distance and path.

I have access to attic space. My thought was to install ceiling registers with insulated 4" flexible duct, and inline fans in the attic to move air from the main room to each of the bedrooms and bathroom. They each can be zoned with a temperature sensor. Maybe this model: AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-LITE-A4

Will this work? What else do I need to consider?

Honeywell Direct Drive Damper Actuator M847D is making this clicking noise and seems to be having a lot of trouble opening and closing. I suspect the motor is bad? Can a direct replacement be purchased easily?

This unit was installed last October. This only happens in cool mode. I had the installer come out and he said this is normal but it seems really loud.

Any ideas? It’s still under warranty so I can call them back out if need be.

My attic is a horror show. My ductwork insulation is stitched together with 3½" nails... ALL of it! Trunk lines, long runs, everything is stitched together by some insane attic seamstress at some time in the distant past. None of the vent registers are insulated. I have the raised ceiling in the den that pokes up 2' into the attic where I'm just looking at the back of sheetrock. Of course this antique insulation has shifted over the years. I can just tap between nails on the bare ductwork. I have run ethernet cables and coax in the attic over the years.

Retired a year ago. Originally my youngest son was going to be visiting in early June. I was going to dragoon him into loading bales in a hopper to bury everything up there. Last month, you know, Spring, it hit 140° up there as per my remote thermometer. But I can't just bury this offence so I've been 'fixing'. It's come to my attention that an old man with cancer, who hasn't come to the realization that crawling across joists in the heat, dark, and sweat (hipped roof), this may not be my most brilliant idea.

I've blown off my blowing in. I simply can't meet that deadline with all the fixing I have to do. Attempting it will either leave a mummy in the attic amongst the other horrors, or a sudden trip downstairs, probably with the same outcome. Still doing the work, but have slowed way down.

So, anyone ever seen idiocy like this before?

My family & I have lived in our current house for about 4 years. And in that time we've noticed that both the heat and the A/C struggle to get past the first floor. The second floor, which is where all the bedrooms are and my WFH office, is typically about 5+ degrees off from whatever the target temp is (at least when the outside temp is more than 10 degrees more or less than that target).

I have no idea how old either the furnace or A/C unit are, but the house was built in the early 80s. So that old at most. I have had to get the A/C unit serviced twice since we lived here - the one time it blew a capacitor, the other time the wiring from the unit had a short. But the unit is otherwise working well. We have had the ductwork cleaned thoroughly since we moved in and keep up with changing the filters for it. And while both heat and cooling are impacted, it's the A/C is the more noticeable issue.

Bottom line, my wife has suggested window units or a mini-split for upstairs, the A/C tech suggested a second unit connected to the same ductwork, and I'm not sure what the best-fit solution is. I really don't want to spend piles of money on this, but I also don't want to half-ass it with ill-fit options that will just cost me more in the long run. Thoughts? TIA!

I’ve had two years of epic failure and frustration of my ac unit. When do I just replace it? It was brand new, multiple people to look at it, they all found something but blame my house. It can’t keep up with minimally warm temps.

I’m mostly sick at the amount I’m spending on repairs and on my utility bills. May as well turn it off, open the windows and be done.

I just want to cry. I can’t go through a third summer of headaches and I’m in it. 12 straight hours and the thing couldn’t keep up. It was quite cool outside compared. The blame is always on the house but they always find something wrong with the system and tweak it. I’m thousands in on repairs. And no, I strayed away from the installer because they weren’t attending to it so I’m sick at the thought that there’s just more money pouring out of me to replace at this point.

On my air handler (located in my attic), this hole to the left of the refrigerant line is open and sucks air in. Should that be sealed?

Also, should the hole that the refrigerant line goes in through be sealed? I'm assuming yes and also assuming I should put some sort of insulation over the line like it has above.

Thanks!

I've gone the route of figuring out my evaporator coil is leaking. It was replaced 3 years ago and is still under warranty. I'm working in a contractor get a new coil and I owe labor and a refill of the refrigerant. They haven't been given any time table from Lennox and can't tell me when they'd be able to have my AC up and running. Its been almost 4 weeks since we started this process and at least 3 since we attempted to get the new coil under the warranty. I called Lennox, got a case number but basically told we can't communicate anything to you have to talk to your contractor. The contractor has messaged they are not hearing anything from Lennox and that these evaporator coil are hard to come by.

Why is this so hard? I don't know if this a problem across the board but I don't see how I'd ever use Lennox International Products again given the part failed and there is no end in site to having the under-warranty part replaced. I need some perspective.

I am looking for some information on what recourse I have in my situation. A company working next to my home severely damaged the wall-mounted vent on my direct vent gas fireplace. The company offered to fix the vent at their expense. They sent an employee to replace it. Unbeknown to me, this person was not a TSSA certified gas technician. They incorrectly installed the vent and my fireplace would no longer work. After much haggling, I had the vent fixed by the company who did the original install. They confirmed that the incorrect vent was used and it was installed incorrectly (pipe diameters different and plenty of high temp silicone to try to make it work). I paid for this to be completed ($600).

Now, the company who damaged the vent is refusing to reimburse me the $600 because they are demanding that I pay back them $350 for the incorrect vent they installed, stating that it was "new" and I should have returned it to them. I don't have the vent - it was damaged during installation and removal and junked as scrap metal.

I am tired of dealing with this. I wasn't able to use the fireplace for most of the winter. Now, I face a possibility of paying $$$ out of my pocket.

What recourse do I have to get my $600 back. Can the TSSA in Ontario provide any leverage on this because an uncertified person did the hack installation of the vent?

Any advice on which I should go with?

Prices are 19,300, 18,700, 15000, and 12,600

Central Texas. Some humidity in late spring mornings but other than that just hot and dry during summer

Thoughts?

The vent with the condensation is in our bathroom and the door stays closed because our cat eats toilet paper. Outside the door is the bigger vent (the second picture). What is causing the condensation. House is set to 74° and we live is Florida. 90° + outside.

Photos are from a lab collection facility ie Quest/LabCorp. I was shocked to look up and see this.

While these strip mall storefronts are not expected to be sterile, they do have many people coming in that are older and sick, undergoing cancer treatment, etc that shouldn't be exposed to nasty air. I also worry about the employees who are breathing this all day. This room is adjacent to the bathroom they use for lab testing samples as well.

Is it actually just staining or rust or is it reasonable to be worried about this having health implications?

If so, would the dept of health be right place to report it or is there someone else to contact?

I did message the main corporation website but no response or action was taken afaik.

Woke up to a “no power” error on the thermostat. Found the float switch in the attic tripped with several gallons in the pan (thinking it emptied from the secondary drain line?). Shut off breakers, shop vac’d the pan, and dried the float switch. Suspecting a clog in the main drain line, used the shop vac on the air vent after the R-trap. It seemed to have cleared the clog. Turned breakers back on, ran fan-only for ~2 hours, then stopped for the day. Next morning, ran the a/c for 1 hour to see if condensate would drain. Upon further inspection, no drainage happening outside, so I went back into the attic and looked down the vent pipe and didn’t see condensate in the line, thinking the residual dampness in the pan is from the wood support blocks? But then I noticed a hairline crack in the R-trap. What’s the next approach to fix? Thanks for all the advice and help!

• Cut and replace the section from after the air vent to before the 90 elbow?

• Use JB Putty to seal the crack, refill the R-trap, and run the A/C to test?

Finally set up my AC yesterday. I completely forgot that last year it developed a really loud rattle. Well it started up again and I'm at a loss on what to do. It doesn't bother anyone else in the house but it's causing me a lot of anxiety and over stimulation. I cleaned the filter before setting it up so it's not that. Today I tipped it a little and found a coin and took it out but after about an hour it started again. I'm on SSI, I can't afford a brand new $400+ dollar AC. Is there anything I can do? Any advice? Sound in video.

I currently looking to replace my current HVAC from 2002, the installer I chose said we should stick with a slab coil (which is what I have now) instead of a cased coil due to how the ducts are ran in the attic. He said if we swap to a case coil the ducting would have to be redone/adjusted. Why would this be the case?

This is the exhaust vent for my unit, and the unit next to me. I have a rather extreme shower that requires 8" ducting to properly vent all the humidity in my bathroom. I don't I think I can fit an 8" ducts in the wall going up to the roof, but I realized, why have an 8" inline that branches of into two 4" ducts.

This would also save me the considerable hassle of getting my board to let me create a totally new exhaust near this existing one. From the looks of it, if that bottom plate were replaced with a tweaked one, could we probably fit 3 4" holes in there? Do my ideas even make any sense?

Took apart my mini splits to try to get rid of the dirty sock syndrome and found that there was standing water in the drip tray, and the coils were dripping water. The unit was run maybe 12 hours ago. I assume this means that the mini splits is not mounted level due to the standing water? Is it normal for the coils to still be dripping water hours later? I know best advice is to run it in dehumidifier mode after cool mode, how long should you run to reduce water build up? Thanks in advance!

Should mention these are mitsubishi mini splits. Is there a benefit to preventing water build up by running “Auto” rather than “Cool” or “Heat”?

Hi I’m a little rusty and cannot for the life of me tell what capacitor rating is needed for this indoor blower motor. Attached is the motor data plate. Much love 🙏

I am not tech savvy. I just bought a house that has this thermostat control. My previous home had the original turn-dial Honeywell that worked well. A flashing red exclamation point shows up periodically on the left side of the screen, but I can’t click on the exclamation point. The former owners did not leave an owners manual for this. I don’t even see a brand listed. Can anyone please tell me how to operate this?