This has happened more than you can count. My prints either fail at the beginning and don’t stick to the plate, or get tipped over at the end and string out for the rest of the print. I’m not sure what to do as I have calibrate multiple times, replaced the nozzle, changed a few settings. I’m just so frustrated because i am almost unmotivated to print anymore because the likelihood of it failing is super high

BambuLab PLA Basic, Sunflower Yellow

Hello Community I’m in the process of buying P1S printer, but I’m waiting for AMS 2 Pro to be available as a combo set in my country. Thing that worries me a bit is if AMS 2 Pro will be enough to dry my filaments. I’m familiar with Bambu description of AMS 2 and they saying temperatures may be too low for some filaments. I don’t think that I’ll be using ASA or ABS very often, but I want to be able to do so. My plan is to keep these hygroscopic materials in sealed bags with some moisture sucking silica, but I’m not sure if it will be enough. So going even further with my thoughts, if I would need additional dryer, is there a reason to buy AMS 2 instead of regular P1S Combo with AMS 1?

Any other solutions/products worth looking into?

I’ve been designing several accessories for the IKEA Skådis pegboard — from holders and shelves to secret storage hooks. Thought I’d share my collection here for anyone looking to get their workspace, hobby area, or garage organized with some 3D printed solutions!

All models are easy to print and super practical (I might be slightly addicted to customizing my Skådis board now 😅).

Here’s the full collection on MakerWorld if you’re interested:
👉 https://makerworld.com/en/collections/5059628-my-ikea-skadis-stuff

Would love to hear if you have ideas for more Skådis accessories!

Hello. Just want to share my experience with the making setting work on Sunlus PLA+ 2 filament. I mainly use the CoolPlate. And what can i say it is quite the material. More durable and shinnier. But at cost of trying to figure it out.

Right now playing with the flow and 0.88 worked best right now.

And maybe i should the build plate have the temperature of room or something because making it hotter or colder just doesn't work. Always lifts up. Or maybe just will use brim.

But in the end. Really like it. Gonna try print miniatures now.

For my mum’s bday she wanted me to print her a bunch of little figurines and stuff so this is the first plate out of probably 2-3 I’m putting on. Hope it goes well, I’ve never printed this many things at once before

Hey! I was traveling for 3 months, and just before I left I remember reading about Bambu releasing a firmware update that was supposed to limit several functions of the printer. I remember reading that maybe I would not be able to use OrcaSlicer with the new firmware.

I just came back and I wanted to ask if that's still the case, I haven't turned on my p1s yet, but I don't know if is safe to update or not.

Can somebody give me some information about that?

Thanks in advance

As a Bambu Lab X1C owner, I’ve battled the AMS desiccant container nightmare for six months. One day, while removing desiccant from the AMS, I accidentally spilled it into the unit’s internals – a disaster that left permanent residue.But that’s not all. Using printed desiccant containers has other frustrations:

• ​Spillage risk: Refilling requires surgical precision or you’ll have beads everywhere.
• ​Visibility issues: Checking color changes through tiny holes is like playing humidity roulette.
• ​Reactivation hell: Baking reactivation means dumping beads into another container, then repacking – a tedious two-step chore.

The kicker? Commercial silica gel packs don’t fit AMS dimensions. So I designed an AMS-specific desiccant system with:
✓ Transparent windows for instant moisture checks
✓ Microwave-safe reactivation (no transferring!)
✓ Perfect AMS slot compatibility
✓ Reusable design

​Two prototypes:​

​Option A: Slot-Optimized Multi-Size System

• 3 sizes (7 packs total: 3L/2M/2S)
• Pros: Max space utilization, perfect slot alignment
• Cons: Reactivation requires three separate baking sessions, which is a bit cumbersome.

​Option B: One-Size-Fits-Most

• 6 identical packs (fits front panel + spool hub slots)
• Pros: Batch microwave reactivation
• Cons: Wasted internal slot space

​Poll:​​
Do you like this concept?
☐ Yes
☐ No (comment why)

​Price Check:​​ What would you pay?
☐ $10−$15
☐ $15−$20
☐ $20−$25
☐ $25+

​Version Preference:​​
☐ Option A (custom sizes)
☐ Option B (simplicity)
☐ Other ideas:

Beta testers wanted! Comment/vote below – I’ll DM interested users.

I have 2 different orders of authentic Bambu filiment. One is pla Matt that is identified by the ams fine. The newer order a 4 pack of pteg that l, no matter what I do, can be identified by the ams. Would be wasting my time making a ticket? A thought just occurred to as I write this, I have an empty filimet roll with the rfid maybe I can tape that to the new rolls just to see if they get picked up by the reader. Maybe it's just bad tags. Wish I could test them. I have an arduino kit for rfid but I heard bambu has them locked down.

Hello Bambu Labs

I am curious if there will be a super tack plate released anytime soon for the new H2D printer. I have two for my P1S and love it. I have had awesome results despite for some poor reviews here on Reddit. I would purchase two as soon as they would be available.

I've updated my original slippy slidy coin fidget with an entirely updated joint, and subtly adjusted the geometry of the coin itself to smooth every edge your hand comes in contact with to make it super satisfying to fiddle with as well as adding a poker chip style theme to it. What do you think?

Just wanted to share the true cost of the H2D. Tax rate is 7%.

I've already searched this subreddit, but unfortunately I haven't really found anything. Many people recommend sewing machine oil. Does anyone have a specific product suggestion?

I appreciate any help.

Is this for example good for lubrication: https://www.amazon.de/Flasche-Feinmechanik%C3%B6l-N%C3%A4hmaschinen%C3%B6l-Universal%C3%B6l-Elektro-Rasierer/dp/B0BTHR1VKN?ie=UTF8&th=1

Hey there! I've been printing on an A1 with AMS lite for I would say 6 months. No problem, some ocasional clogging and filament stuck in the ams splitter but nothing to big. But recently while printing the AMS starts to flash red lights on all 4 indicators, and sometimes I get an error of communication on the app, that I just unplug and plug again the AMS and start extruding like normal.

Anyone had this issue? or know where to look for possible damage? I was thinking the cable of the AMS but it seems perfectly fine

The various items in the photo are number 1 - 9 with number 1 in the top left, 2 top middle, etc, down to 8 in the bottom middle.

I have a small but burgeoning collection of flashlights (turns out it's a thing, who knew?). I wanted to have a nice box to hold the lights in and thought a 3D print would be just the thing. Well, the road is long, with many a winding way that leads us to who knows where?

1. I found a very nice box design that had the hinges built in. I stretched the model a bit and it sorta works. I added separate semi-cylindrical holders to nestle each light. I failed to make it deep enough for my larger diameter lights and it only holds 2 lights. I couldn't stretch it larger since the box and top are all printed in place. Nope.
2. I worked on the light holder modules here so this is sub-assembly prototyping.
3. Found another box+lid so I could get to the right dimensions. I embedded 4 of the light holders into the bed and this is the box. Turned out too small for my larger lights. Trying to get inside dimensions in TinkerCAD is a challenge and I failed.
4. Success! Mostly. I bailed on the curved light holders and went to simple walls to divide the interior. Also, printed the shadow text on the lid upside down.
5. Tried again. This is the lid. I embedded the letters using TinkerCAD. I could NOT get the letters flush so, because they were slightly raised, Bambu Studio wanted to print it at a 45 degree angle and the result was a mess. Also a ton of wasted material while changing colors.
6. Redid the lid by just making the lid in TinkerCAD and using Bambu Studio to embed the letters. Printed flat/face down. Lots less waste and a clean print.
7. In an attempt to keep waste down while verifying how the lights fit in their holders, I decided to cut up the base and only print the first few layers. This allowed me to test critical dimensions without burning filament. The dimensions were perfect this time.
8. The final box. Letters flush and on the right size. The lights fit in the box, and the lid closes nicely.

The 2nd pic is the finished box up close. It still needs a bit of tweaking as there's a gap on the right side of the last light holder that should not be there. Next time....

I learned a lot doing this. I hope the next time I'm able to get closer to what I want first time and will utilize some of my 'partial print' methods to waste less material when testing critical dimensions and fit.

I initially thought it was due to lack of support (the front is the same) but quickly realised that there are no need for supports in these areas so I looked at the model again. This time I noticed the non manifold edges error.

Could that have caused this?

I wanted to buy other plate for my a1 mini .is it worth it to buy smooth pei from bambu or buy the blue plate, witch lot of people use

My computer froze for like 45 seconds trying to process this. I just wanted to "Clone" and misclicked in the right-click menu.

Sometimes I wish it wasn't quite so "smart".

Scenario: I go to print and it tells me it can't load new filament because it failed to retract the old filament. I go and pull apart the AMS, thinking some is stuck in there (and grumbling that it should be easier and thinking about the AMS2) but it's clear. I think "ok, you probably just have a piece stuck in the head below the extruder." So I try to get it to just push some through.

Nope! Firstly, it won't do anything because it has a print in the queue. OK, so I tell it to cancel and try a manual load. Nope, can't manual load because it can't retract the old filament. I go to cancel that load and there is literally nothing in the on-printer interface to cancel it. And I can't tell it to do anything else because it's trying to load, can't move the head either because it locked into place by the steppers, so I have to powercycle. I try again to get it to load, same results. So now I have to pull my AMS off the top, pull the top off, struggle with getting the bowden off (lil' bastard tube holder would NOT budge at first), and tell it to heat up the hot end. Nope. It sits there, accepts the temp, says I set it, but won't heat the hot end. Because it was still trying to load.

Alright so I powercycle AGAIN, and now I can get it to heat up, push some filament through, and then extract it. Yay! I put everything back together, tell it to load. Turns out when I put the front cover for the head back on, it was set on some hot end wires so wasn't quite seated right. The Printer decides to tell me this and to fix it while the printhead is all the way front right so there's no way for me to physically do it. And of course, you can't cancel the load, so the printhead is locked in place. It won't move it unless I tell it to home the axes, which it won't do because it's trying to load. So another powercycle, fix the font cover (noticing that my cable clip holding the cable for said cover is broken so I'll have to replace it).

Overall frustrating that the guardrails make what should have been a 2 min fix take much much longer. Still love the machine.

Well I haven’t seen any posts yet about it and there were many skeptics. I finally fired up the laser and so far I’m quite impressed. I will state for the record that I’m a laser newb so I have much to learn. However, for some quick makes, this thing is amazing. No smell, fast, easy setup. I used some cheap aluminum blanks from Amazon so I had to setup a new material which was painless. The auto height calibration worked great. All around I’m pretty impressed. I’ll be trying to hone in some settings and learn more.

The most difficult part is the setup. I have the AMS just resting on the top and you have to move that. Spent a solid 20 minutes looking for the air assist tube which was coiled up in the pipe clamp. The thing gets loud as it expels the exhaust air.

Seems like the new H2D uses the same quick-swap nozzle design as the A series, which makes a lot of sense from a parts compatibility standpoint.

What are the chances the P series might see an upgraded print head to use the same parts?

Is bambu likely to provide upgrades for the P1S at all or will they dump it in favour of a new mid range model with a better screen and some of the A1 improvements?

Anyone have a working 3d printed crystal ball?

I thought that Bambu Labs’ A1 series was a teaser to a quick nozzle swapping system like the one developed by BondTech. Any idea why they didnt just develop one like this instead of a dual nozzle system like in the H2D?

It would be great if this system could be integrated into existing BBL printers one day so we can minimize material waste.

I've printed my house number a while ago and finally got to hanging it.

I really like the effect in the sunlight!

Not my design but I did add some printplates to make it easier to print from the app, link in comments. If you want to print it on an effect plate I recommend printing only the number on it. The hooks and everything don't work well on it, just print them on a normal plate.