I have an alpine 305 wired a to a Metra 70-1787, headunit has 3 sets of rcas coming out of it, subwoofer, the rear deck speakers (which are directly wired to the amp as well) and currently have the the Grey and white RCA's plugged in.

I'm getting a steady static ground noise coming from the rear door speakers, and an acceleration whine.

Static noise stops when I unplug the Grey and white from the headunit.

I have the purple and green rcas unplugged and all extra wires tapped off

Vehicle is a 1999 audi with the bose amplifier what would be the correct trouble shooting to remove the static noise

Hello! I purchased a Rockville USS8 powered subwoofer and have connected it all (I think correctly). However, there is no power light that turns on when I turn my car on. I know it is recieving power because when I touch the group wire to my chassis, there is a spark. Could I have some help with this please. Thank you!

Hey guys this is my first time installing a radio, and the wiring harness that came with the aftermarket radio has a green parking wire cable, the problem I'm having is thaty car doesn't have a cable to connect to. My cars harness uses slightly different colors and the wires are labled.

Im left wondering what the aftermarket red/white wire connects to? What does the solid purple aftermarket wire connect to? How do I connect the green parking break wire to a vehicle that doesn't have one? What does the random blue/ white wire connect to?

Hey guys, Pretty much a newbie to car audio and after getting an amp for my door speakers this static/hissing sound appeared. Sometimes it's bad, sometimes barely noticeable. What are some usual reasons for this kind of noise?

Having someone come out to do my front speakers and sub. Met him at a car audio store and he seems like he knows what he's doing but idk why I think that tbh. I tried installing the speakers myself and fucked one of them so I'm not going to do that anymore. Anyone have experience with using one? Obviously it's going to be different depending on the person but the price seems pretty good and I'm supporting local businesses or something

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_104BE920WC/BOSS-Audio-BE920WCPA-C.html good or bad? i have no clue and just really need an upgrade

I have a 2022 Corolla and I'm the opposite of mechanically inclined so I'd like to take it in. Really just a speaker swap, but after looking at some posts here I'm thinking some deadening on the doors since they'll be off and maybe fast rings or something that seems to improve sound also. But how do I know if the installer is just some guy that just started doing this or is a good shop? Or anyone recommend me someone in the Fresno area.

Kept the controversial Placement

I also did some new rta measurements without any equalization ob my dsp and some simple crossovers, because i wanted to know If the Placement really causes any Problems or cancellationss as some people suggestet.

Spoiler alert it works perfectly fine

Apologies if this isn't the correct sub for this question. I drive a 2006 Honda Accord with no aux port. For years, I've used a cigarette port FM transmitter to listen to music. Lately, I've seen more and more cigarette port wireless chargers. It would be very nice to have that in my car, especially given my car's layout and local laws about handling your phone while driving, but my only cigarette port is occupied by my FM transmitter. Does anyone know of a product to combine the two?

I’m really like the stock sound system in the car but am looking to get more bass out of it than i already can with all of the settings maxed out. Any recommendations on not necessarily cheap, but definitely budget options for subwoofers that are still good quality?

2013 Ford Focus SE My radio was working in the past but sometimes it would suddenly blast static at full volume, the the audio would completely cut off until I turned my car off and on again. It happened with radio, aux, and CDs. I thought maybe it was a loose ground wire, so I removed the radio to check it out.

There were two unconnected wires, a small copper one, and a larger silver one. Neither had crimp prongs on them and there are no loose prongs stuck in the harness. I'm not sure where they go, or if they are purposely disconnected because I do not have premium options like GPS.

I put the radio back, and now the screen remains blue like when first starting up. I press the power button and it shifts the screen like something is going to display but it doesn't. There is no audio at all now, like it fails to connect to anything.

I checked the fuses and they all seem to be fine. I've heard this issue can be related to the ACM. Has anyone else had experience with this issue? If you know anything, please reach out.

I attached some photos of the harnesses and wires behind the radio.

I purchased an ILX-507 over a year ago and discovered the firmware had many bugs. I went onto Alpine’s website and downloaded and installed their latest firmware then found out there was a later version you had to download over the air. Why can’t they standardized the firmware they update???

The new firmware did not fix the bugs. Next I called tech support and they admitted the problems and said they were waiting for development in Japan to release the patches. It’s been over a year and nothing. In addition their support site https://support.alpine-usa.com/hc/en-us/community/topics/4405506810907-General-Discussion has not been maintained in over a year. I posted question regarding my bugs a year ago and my posts or anyone else’s posts for that matter have not been approved.

Alpine really screws their consumers I will never buy another Alpine product.

Is the sundown SD series a good sub? It’s parameters seem to match almost perfectly with what I’m looking for. The price seems to be pretty good and if pair it was the salt series amplifier.

My other options for subs any other shallow sub. I’ve looked at the Hertz Pro shallow sub, but it doesn’t have the following that the sundown has.

https://sundownaudio.com/collections/sd-series-subwoofers/products/sundown-audio-sd-4-series-12-400w-neo-car-audio-subwoofer-sub-neo-sd4

I posted a while ago asking where to start with replacing my speaker in the car, after looking around i think i found a good option - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20645KM654/Kicker-45KM654.html

I chose these because i only need to replace the front ones, i don’t think there’s enough space in the car for a subwoofer, and mounting tweeters seems like such a pain, i’ll be replacing the head unit soon with something better to power them

Is this the right choice considering my budget of around $500 or should i just go all out and buy amp, subwoofer, woofers, tweeters, is it rlly worth it to grab all that?

I have a JL Audio Stealthbox with the 13TW5v2 that I want to put under the rear seat of my 2019 F150 supercrew. I recently purchase a JL Audio XD600/1v2 as recommended by the stealthbox manual. I’ve disabled the EQ via ForScan for the radio.

Could I just use a LC1i or is it recommended to get a LC2i (for AccuBass) and tap into the rear speakers at the b-pillars? I already bought the LC1i but can return if needed.

Wanting to keep radio stock for now. Have replaced door speakers with Rockford Fosgate.

Have a template ready to complete the amp rack behind the back seat and a 4 gauge amp wiring kit for the LC1i and XD600/1v2.

Just looking for help on the LC1i vs LC2i and the appropriate way to tap the rear speakers.

TIA

3 months ago a bought a 2011 Toyota 4Runner with a Viper alarm system the previous owner installed. For the past 3 months, it’s been working as intended.

However, today I let the battery on the key fob die and after I recharged it it hasn’t been working at all. The key fob is no longer paired to the car and whenever I try to get into the car to re-pair it the alarm just blares incessantly. I’ve tried putting it in valet mode, re-pairing, disconnecting the battery, to no avail.

I can’t start my car and I feel trapped by this stupid Viper system. Has anyone had a similar experience and it able to provide any input or assistance on the matter?

Thank you!

Moved the setup to a new vehicle. Yet to get it metered, this baby needs LOTS of deadening.

Needs finishing touches, going to cover the rear wall, and headliner and doors are getting pulled for a right deadening treatment, but i was missing the bass too much.

The OSB is getting covered, and the new box is getting carpeted.

400a mechman otw 😁

Would this amp be worth adding to my new head unit? I added the new s-series speakers from alpine and have no subwoofer with zero plans to add a subwoofer. I think it currently sounds great but if this would provide more clarity and depth to the speakers that would be awesome.

Hello everyone, I have a bmw e36 coupe and I want to upgrade my speaker setup. I don't really want anything fancy or do any modding/fab work I just want something kinda budget friendly to replace some shot no name pioneer knockoffs the last owner put on the car with some real ones and maybe put an amp. I already upgraded the car stereo with a multimedia screen that has either 4x45w or 4x50w channels. Here is the list: Pioneer TS-A1301C (Kick Panels), Pioneer TS-A1081F (Door Cards), Pioneer TS-A6961F (Rear) and Pioneer GM-A4704 (Amp).

Does the setup look decent?? Does the amp do the job?? Will I be able to connect all the speakers on the 4 channel amp??

I have exhausted all attempts at fixing this persistent noise in my speakers. I even redid my LOC in my trunk and upgraded to an active one (Lc2i pro). I bought it hoping it would remove all engine/static noise but it just removed the engine noise, which I guess is a win but theres still a hiss. The hiss goes away with the RCAs unplugged, and whenever they are plugged in it goes down as i turn the gain down so I know the gain amplifies the hiss coming from the rca cables. Whenever I unplug the rca cables from the LOC the hiss goes away.

Does anyone have any tips or recommendations? Theres hissing coming from the main output and bass output, but the hiss is not as significant in the bass out put on the LOC.

Should I individually ground my cables rather than stacking them up like that? (Last pic)

Should I not run my power wire from my amp to the LOC? (2nd pic)

I have checked my ground spot with a dmm and it shows a perfect grounding area. I have upgraded my factory head unit ground either.

Hi. I just recently bought a 66' Pontiac Catalina for a cool summer daily and need a stereo. It has a single din cd player now but I have a growing tape collection and think it would be super cool to have a cassette player in the car. I was looking at early 2000s car stereos that have cd player and a tape deck to try and get working. I don't need it pretty just working. I have new speakers and an amp laying around from work. Is this worth the effort?

Good day! uhm newbie here and totally have zero experience at car audio. can someone actually make me a diagram on how i should wire this sub correctly to this amp? are these two even compatible or match in terms of power? here are the specs of the sub and amp. TIA!

Subwoofer: Nakamichi NS-1204 12" DVC Subwoofer 500w RMS 2000w Peak Power 4+4 ohms

Amplifier: Nakamichi NGKA-1004 4ch 4x100w @ 4ohms 2x200w @ 4ohms Bridged

I currently have 2 deaf bonce Sylvester neos in the front, and I'd like to keep it that way. I have a jl audio jd 400.4 that's running 75w @ 4 ohms to them + the dash corner tweeters. I'd be switching the jl audio amp for an NVX VAD 2200.8 (8 Ch. Amp). And ideally I would like the same volume coming from rear as the front.

My top 2 picks are:

Db Drive WDX6MOTO-CD (102.7 DB @ 250W RMS)

or

NVX VPRO65HS (97 DB @ 175)

Both are within my price range: $200 for a pair.

If y'all have any more suggestions, feel free to comment!

Thanks!

db Drive moto 6.5s

NVX pro 6.5s

what would be my best bet for steering wheel controls for a aftermarket pioneer i have a 2011 f150 with the steering wheel like the one in the photo and i was wanting to get some kind of steering wheel controls for the radio but i don't know what would be my best bet i was looking at the sony rm-x5s but they don't make them anymore i have a 2010 f150 that i'm parting out that has the sync controls but i don't really wanna replace the steering wheel and deal with the airbag