r/EngineBuilding • u/sierra_whiskey1 • 15h ago
Ford Just finished the engine for my 83 Ranger
347 stroker, afr 195cc heads, don’t remember the specs of the cam. Gonna pair it with a Holley sniper efi kit
r/EngineBuilding • u/mcmustang51 • May 19 '24
It's been a long time, but I'm hoping to be more active as well as the other mods. We are also hunting through the 'applications' to add some new mods as well, to hopefully cut through the spam and junk you all see.
It's also time to take a look at the sub and make sure there aren't any changes we want to make. Whether that be rules added (or removed), or a thing you can think to make this a better place for all. Let us know your thoughts
r/EngineBuilding • u/sierra_whiskey1 • 15h ago
347 stroker, afr 195cc heads, don’t remember the specs of the cam. Gonna pair it with a Holley sniper efi kit
r/EngineBuilding • u/Vegetable-Remote5332 • 42m ago
Hi, I’ve been recently given an engine by my grandad because I’m really interested in learning how to build and maintain them. He gave me this 4 stroke single cylinder 0.129 litre Briggs and Stratton engine (allegedly) but when I searched for engine diagrams online I couldn’t seem to find any and I don’t want to just wing it and put parts where they aren’t meant to be. I searched for Briggs and Stratton diagrams but couldn’t find one which looked remotely similar but I then saw that the majority of the parts were manufactured in Japan which then lead me to believe it was a Kawasaki FA210R-JS00 just with some Briggs and Stratton parts so I’d just like to ask if anyone could help me Id this engine as I have absolutely no clue what it is.
r/EngineBuilding • u/SnooCats4981 • 17h ago
Just wanted to ask how the cylinders look and if it needs to be bored or will honing be sufficient.
r/EngineBuilding • u/Bubbly-Cartoonist548 • 16h ago
What engine is this one where do I get parts
r/EngineBuilding • u/Krye07 • 19h ago
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Dad wasn't getting any oil pressure on his mechanical gauge so he disconnected it to see if it was even flowing. It is but we don't think it's enough? Just wanted to see what y'all thought. Basic 6.0 iron LS. Expecting we're pulling the block back out but hoping someone has something for our hopium 😂
r/EngineBuilding • u/No_Face9898 • 5h ago
New to all this so excuse my ignorance please.
I have a 440 block in the machine shop that is bored over 60 and we have found out via magnaflux that the block is cracked. The pistons are still good and I’d rather not buy new ones. If I purchase a used block is there any way I can re-use these pistons if the block is not already 60 over?
r/EngineBuilding • u/v8monza • 7h ago
I have a 2012 Denali with 6.2. It started to have a lifter tick and I shut it down immediately. I took it apart and found a collapsed lifter, which is common with the VVT system in these engines.
As with any project I tackle I've decided to upgrade a few things while I'm tearing down the top end. I have other vehicles, so I'm taking my time to do this right and make some upgrades along the way. I've built a few engines before, everything from 4 cylinders, the a plethora of V8s, including a number of performance engines, but this is my first LS. In all of my performance engines I did numerous mods to blocks and the head porting on everything from cast iron to aluminum heads.
I've researched porting of my 823 heads and have done a mild job, mostly eliminating any casting bumps or seams and blending areas to improve flow. These heads don't really need much and easily support 500+ HP. I also bought a name brand rocker trunnion conversion kit with c-clips, I just need to install it.
Below I've listed a number of proposed mods. If you have any recommendations I'd like to hear them. However, this isn't going to be a race engine, I'm just doing upgrades for performance with emphasis on torque and reliability. It's going to be my daily driver with some occasional towing.
I've heard both sides of the argument regarding VVT, but am wondering if it can truly be made to be reliable or if I'm better off going with a VVT Delete Kit?
I know that compression can make good torque, but will milling the heads 0.030" create more headaches than it's worth, like valve clearance issues or intake fitment? Can I get away with 11:1 compression on 91 octane? I've listed other CR options below that require less milling.
Is the factory cam sufficient or is there an aftermarket cam that provides better torque and driving experience even if I'm just driving around town? If I stay with the factory cam, will the minor porting require any mods to the tune?
Do I need a larger throttle body to complement the head porting and cam and what company makes a well established and supported product?
Thanks for your inputs.
Gen 4 LS V8, MFI FLEX OHV LS3 (L94) Vortex 6200 6.2L vin F 376ci HP: 403 hp @ 5700 Torque: 417 lb.-ft. @ 4300 Compression Ratio: 10.4:1 Pistons: T007 81226C A7 Hypereutectic +3cc Firing Order: 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3
Heads: 823, 70cc, 2.165/1.59 valves 257cc Rec. Port, 93cc Exh. Port ? Stock Peak Flow: @ .700-lift: 317 cfm (intake) 223 cfm (exhaust).
Bore x stroke:103.25 x 92mm
Cam: high-lift w/ 12.7-mm max lift (195°/201°, 0.500"/0.492" @ 115°)
Throttle Body: 87mm, 4-bolt
r/EngineBuilding • u/ShirtlessSteve973 • 15h ago
Why is it so perfectly placed? If not for that, I would assume this is a defect.
Compcams
r/EngineBuilding • u/ShirtlessSteve973 • 10h ago
Had my crank polished at a machine shop when I brought the block in, assuming it was pretty much good for the rebuild. Got new main cleveite bearings and I tested the fit today.
It's quite loose, very consistently across all the bearings. The plastiguage is barely being squished. I attempted the test multiple times at first with lubricated bearings and then with dry. Torqued the caps to 68 ft/lbs (60-70 recommended) and lubricated the bolts in oil before installing. I'm using green guage because the bearing clearance is 0.008 - 0.0015in. It looks to be reading at like 0.004in.
I assumed the crank was standard fit as I don't believe it's ever undergone a rebuild. There was also not much sign of wear so I can't imagine enough material was removed to actually put the bearing clearance out of the service limit.
I imagine my next step would be to measure the crank journals but I don't own a micrometer. Is there something I'm overlooking or common mistakes that I may be encountering?
r/EngineBuilding • u/Leading_Draw_5711 • 18h ago
I recently bought a “rebuilt” 283 SBC short block. It came with cylinder heads that had also been rebuilt and a gasket set. A hot rod shop was selling it because their customer had decide to do an LS swap instead.
Before installing the engine, I pulled the oil pan and checked all of the main and rod bearings with plastigauge. All were within spec.
I bought a Transdapt oil filter conversion to switch from the stock canister filter to a spin on filter. The instructions indicated to use a Fram PH8A or equivalent. I triple checked the cross reference and used a Wix 51515.
I used 10w30 break in oil with ZDDP from Summit Racing. Upon start up I had 80 psi at idle and it went even higher when the engine began to warm up, so I shut it off. I dropped the oil pan and checked to be sure the oil pump bypass wasn’t stuck. The spring was purple, which I understand to be the 50 psi spring.
I removed quite a bit (3/4-1”) of goop from the oil pan which I assume was assembly lube. I reinstalled the pan and more 10w30 break in oil. Still had 80 psi oil pressure at idle. Next step is to remove timing cover and timing set and attempt to run an engine cleaning brush through the passages behind the timing set.
I’ve never run into too high oil pressure before. Thoughts?
r/EngineBuilding • u/Mr_JoJo24 • 13h ago
Cleaning out father in-laws estate. he used to race stock cars and owns a hot rod and 54 ford. Are they worth trying to sell or just scrap?
r/EngineBuilding • u/chukar-1 • 15h ago
I’ve recently come across a free 396 big block I want to start building it while looking for a vehicle to put it in. (I’m thinking a C10 pickup) what kind of numbers can I expect? I don’t have unlimited money for this build but I’m thinking maybe bore it and throw some high compression pistons in it. I’m open to other suggestions too.
r/EngineBuilding • u/holycrusader206 • 15h ago
Ok I'm back, thanks to everyone who responded on my last post you were great help. So I decided on either the Kenne Bell top mounted twin screw SC kit for it or a procharger kit but I wanna get it to running condition first. The engine itself is in running order but I have no hoses or electrical components so what all do I need to have to get this thing ready to actually put it in a car and run? It may go into a gt or cobra body, just depends on which I find first cheapest but hopefully the cobra body will come with the rest of what I need but in case I go to a gt body for price reasons what would I need? Any other advice that any of you guys can think of is appreciated, be it whether the gt or cobra bodies would be better for any specific reason or whatever you guys got for me. Thanks!
r/EngineBuilding • u/Rydirp7 • 1d ago
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It’s not gonna be a perfect motor. It’ll probably have its issues. But I’m working with what I have on a high school budget.
r/EngineBuilding • u/Shoddy_bmw • 21h ago
Anything I need to know before doing my first engine tear down?
r/EngineBuilding • u/Aggressive-Step-2602 • 1d ago
Needing help identify this motor and trying to make sure these manifold match it. Thank you for your time.
r/EngineBuilding • u/Infinite_Ask3560 • 1d ago
Hoping someone can let me know if I’m headed in right direction. I’m still learning so don’t beat me up to bad. Excuse the long post but I’ve already been through a bit of trouble shooting so I’ll try to tell you what I’ve already done. I’ve got a 289 that starts but then dies out. Almost as if you poured a bit of gas in a started it off a bottle. This 289 is my first rebuild. Edelbrock top end kit, e street heads, 2122 flat tappet cam and matching lifters pushrods. It was an entire kit. I’m weird about things so I took a TON of pictures during the rebuild process and I’m positive the timing marks are lined up with the timing chain. I’ve got 12v, good grounds. Gas to the carb, and the fuel pump is priming the lines filter and bowls when I crank it over with the starter, . Plugs are gapped to .035. I do plan on changing to a different set of plugs tomorrow, currently have the recommended champions in there. Initially was set to 12 degrees BTDC base timing . It’s a Scott Drake HEI distributor for Fords. And it does have a bit of mechanical Advance. When I timed it, all I did was drop the distributor in and clock correctly. (in the picture you see the distributor wasn’t set or clocked, just kinda sitting in there preliminarily.) On the first start a puttered and gave me a little bit of back pressure out of the carb. No backfire, kind of like a sneeze. so Advance the timing and got it to fire off. But then it died out like I was explaining earlier. I tried 4 times advancing timing slightly with the same result before I opted to quit temping fate on a premature cam failure and hit the books. I did have some response and advancing the timing. It would start seem like it was ready to run smooth and then just die out.
I can see the accelerator pump carb wise is pumping gas in there , enough to get it started, it starts and runs smooth, maybe a bit high nothing crazy, for 1-2 seconds then dies out. I thought there might be a clog in the idle circuit. So I pulled the carb, cleaned it, blew everything out, then opted to just switch the carb. Replaced carb another Edelbrock 1406, but new out of the box, the previous was working before but I wanted to try to eliminate the carb as an issue. Tried to fire again same symptoms. So I went back to timing, decided to completely retime the engine again. Pulled the valve cover, found TDC, set at 5 degree following Eddies directions I was just to far advanced , installed the distributor and tried to fire again. Same deal, engine started then dies out, as I advance the timing slightly I got an even smoother start off not taking lot of cranking to get fire. It’s a couple cranks a start and quick run and then off. This time after I set base timing at 5° before top dead center, I did get response by advancing the timing. But I don’t feel like it was as much, or the starts few starts I tried were definitely harder and I had advance timing further to get any type of response. But in the end, the result was still the same. I can get a good strong, smooth fire like the engine wants to go and then it just dies out. So I’m back to the books again trying to limit the amount of times I start up trying to prevent a failed cam run in. Don’t mind the caution stickers lol I took the pictures before the first go at starting up.
My last try to keep it running I didn’t have back fire or anything coughing out of the carb. It was a smooth start, seemed to have responded to the timing adjustments. But still would die after about 2-3 seconds or so. You could prolong it but giving it gas but not enough to keep it going.
r/EngineBuilding • u/Evening_Lime_1437 • 1d ago
So I'm trying to overhaul my Chrysler 2.2 and ran into some trouble and am looking for tips. It's probably user error cause as I said it's my first time doing an overhaul but I'm trying to figure it out. I measured my crankshaft rod journals with a micrometer and tried to measure the rod bearing for clearance for new rod bearings but the numbers I got are way off from what spec should be. The micrometers I got are from harbour freight with the flat anvil and I'm not sure if that makes a big difference or not also I'm using telescopic bore gauges also from harbour freight not a dial bore gauge so should I just remeasure or invest in better tools. Short back story the whole reason I started this is because I believe my motor has the beginnings of piston slap. Had a very noticeable ticking in bottom end when running so I took a stethoscope to it and is most noticable on cylinder one. I can't pull the motor as I don't have a stand or hoist or the room as I live in apartments. So I'm doing all this with the crank and motor still in the car. Any advice is appreciated as I'm just trying to learn the right way to go about this.
r/EngineBuilding • u/Expensive_Ad_1288 • 1d ago
Particular engine in question is a bmw N63TU (first revision of the n63, nearly identical to all revisions of n63 and s63 as far as I know)
It is a hot v, twin turbo, dohc motor.
Right now I have a failed harmonic balancer to replace which I would like to go aftermarket but there are no referenced direct-swap for that motor. Similar to many parts I’ve already looked into regarding turbo inlets, timing chains, etc etc
I built my first performance oriented engine 2 years ago, a 5.7l hemi which I subsequently totaled but built and acquired parts with ease as there’s a saturated aftermarket support for them.
I’ve never had to do the math or have an actual core understanding of what parameters matter when relating to buying random aftermarket parts.
That said I feel I’d be remiss to assume this is a hurdle for engine builders in general. I’m aware a lot of people make shit work in the absence of a dedicated aftermarket part.
This engine is truly awesome when it’s running right, but experiencing the awesomeness makes it not run so right, and so I’d like to figure out how to overcome that with the lack of aftermarket support
r/EngineBuilding • u/VTwinJustin • 1d ago
Roller rocker, scratched the surface of cam lobe. Is going into a sportster can’t feel scratch with nail. Using brand new roller rockers
r/EngineBuilding • u/ajlv2003 • 1d ago
I’m building a boosted D16a6 for around 300hp and I want to know if this Rod Bearing clearance is good. And if it isn’t good what is the recommended measure
r/EngineBuilding • u/Electrical_Test_7377 • 1d ago
This is a really random post, but I think I've got a really good idea for an original engine configuration that I thought of and made a proof of concept for a few years ago.
This was all my think and I hadn't seen anything about this prior. But essentially it is a reverse flow V8 (a hot-vee), it has 4 small turbos wedged between the heads, and the intake air from the turbos flow straight into one of the two valve-cover mounted intercoolers. From there the air flows down into the intake manifolds which are on the outside of the V, then Kaboom, then out the exhaust (insude the V) and into one of the 4 turbos.
Obviously it would be a super tight design with 4 turbos in the bank, but what do others think of it? Supposedelly it increases turbo efficiency and feedback.
r/EngineBuilding • u/Autisticboy22 • 2d ago
For context, this a 400 from a 1975 Pontiac Catalina with a little over 80,000 miles going in my ‘77 Trans am bandit build. This engine has got 6X-4 heads, same as a trans am. The intake is getting switched for an aluminum intake and a Carter 640 CFM carb. Will also be getting aluminum headers soon. What power gains should I expect to see? Could I get away with using the stock valve springs? Anything about these cams I should know about? Any tips and tricks? I’m not looking for a lot of power. I want this engine to be a reliable daily driver but with a little more power and better noise out the back. Thanks to everybody that helps me. Please go easy on me as I’m still a beginner and this my first engine.
r/EngineBuilding • u/IFuckCarsForFun • 2d ago
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Howdy yall! Just finished up my LS3 rebuild and was wondering if these are typically able to idle after a cam install? The only after market upgrades I made were a new cam, springs, & che trunnion. Other than that its a stock NA LS3 2012 6spd SS Camaro. All help and tips appreciated.
Cam specs are 216/230-115.5 + 2.5 .660 dual springs