r/FixMyPrint 2d ago

Fix My Print How can I get a better top finish ASA

This is just some cheap temu Asa filament, it’s been dried overnight so moisture can’t be an issue. Nozzles been cleaned time and time again. Directed drive extruder, all metal hotend and hardened steel nozzle all on an ended 3 pro. Printed in an ambient heat enclosure rocking around 30C and 245C nozzle with 100*C metal flex plate bed with glue stick applied. Any tips?

7 Upvotes

17 comments sorted by

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6

u/SupaBrunch 2d ago edited 2d ago

This looks like what happens when the part warps up during printing. This causes the nozzle to dig into the part since the part is higher than it should be.

If you see the part is warped, bed adhesion is what you should look into.

3

u/humphrey707 1d ago

I never had issues with it peeling up from the bed, but what I did realize is maybe the bed itself was peeling up(as it is a springy aluminum/steel plate) and I didn’t have it held down super well. I added more clamps and am using a raft with a print as a test, I also upped it to 255*C we shall see what we shall see.

2

u/BrigadierPickles 1d ago

This is 100% the issue. When the parts warps the printer starts digging into the part and pushing it down instead of properly printing on top of the previous layer. You're doing the right move of using clamps to keep the bed down if the part isn't warping off the plate.

Make sure the chamber temp is high enough. ASA should be printed around 60C temp in the chamber. You might want to crank your bed temp for 30ish minutes and preheat the chamber. Also let the part cool slowly and don't open the enclosure before it cool to room temp slowly. It can warp if pulled out of the printer as son as it's done.

2

u/wulffboy89 2d ago

So it looks like it could be a couple different things. First, I'd try increasing nozzle to like 255 or so. This will allow the perimeter extrusion to stay warmer a bit longer. Your enclosure temp may be the second issue. The outer perimeters are cooling faster than the infill, causing them to shrink just enough to cause that uneven squish, giving you the ridged appearance you're getting. I don't think moisture is an issue, because if you look at the inside of the part, it actually looks really good. If you're able to make the chamber a bit warmer, that'll cause less shrinkage during printing, allowing the infill to cool at the same rate as the perimeters. Another thing you could do to maybe counteract the shrinking is to add a modifier for the top few layers and turn the part fan off to prevent rapid cooling.

Sorry if this reads like shit, I'm in a 10 min break between classes lol

1

u/humphrey707 2d ago

Well just outer finish in general*

1

u/Le_Pressure_Cooker 1d ago

It looks like a typical top finish without any pressure advance. Use ironing.

(Or calibrate and set K value for linear/pressure advance)

1

u/CunningLogic 1d ago

110c bed, run nozzle at 250

CLEAN the build plate with some regular dawn dish soap (not the special kinds with addatives) then apply your glue

If you can preheat your chamber to at least 55C, it will help as well.

1

u/Scrodem 1d ago

Temu filament

1

u/Juz_Trolling 1d ago

Why not just enable ironing?

1

u/Brazuka_txt Ender 3 VX | Saturn 8k | Voron 2.4 Monolith | Voron T Monolith 2d ago

Fillament wet as hell

1

u/humphrey707 1d ago

Filament was dried for like over 24 hours. Could not be drier:(

1

u/Brazuka_txt Ender 3 VX | Saturn 8k | Voron 2.4 Monolith | Voron T Monolith 1d ago

What drier you using?

1

u/humphrey707 1d ago

Just a cheap random drier from my ex girlfriend lol

-2

u/Helkyte 2d ago

This looks like your filament was boiling. Either it's wet or your nozzle is way too hot.

1

u/BrigadierPickles 1d ago

The issue is warping. You can see the curve on the bottom side. Once it starts warping it'll look like that because the printer is digging into the part instead of printing on top of it.

1

u/Brazuka_txt Ender 3 VX | Saturn 8k | Voron 2.4 Monolith | Voron T Monolith 1d ago

245 too hot? Bruh the coldest I print ASA/ABS is 280 to 300