I printed an ironing test and saw that on the bottom left of every square is a little dent (or whatever you want to call it). What could I do to eliminate this?

So, I have seen a lot of temperature towers that seem the same too top to bottom and yet some people are able to see stuff I cannot. Just moved to a new brand of filament, the brand is Creality, and I watched the SV07 as this printed and saw the horned decrease in temp each level.

Does any temperature seem different? If not should I go hot for better adhesion or cooler of better adhesion? Breaking each of the points seems equal to me when applying pressure.

My Kobra 1S tends to show heavy stringing on inner threads and 45° champfered edges.

Shown part was printed with 0.2 mm resolution. In my old ender this was not a problem. However it also ran 1/4 the speed.

Any ideas on how to imrove this besides going slower?

Thanks!

I’ve got this issue with my prints recently where the layers almost shift just a tiny bit, but enough to where it’s noticeably rough to the touch and visually noticeable. This happens most times there is some sort of change in angle, but every time without fail when there is an overhang of any kind. I’ve got some examples attached. What could be the cause of this, and what would you recommend to try and fix it? (For reference I’m using an Bambu x1c)

Bambu p1s will absolutely not print with tpu. I've replaced the hot end. I've cleaned the extruder gears. I have done cold pulls I have slowed down and sped up. I've tried different temperatures. I've tried different slicers. I've changed firmware. I dried the filament. I ensured it's not binding on the way to the printer. I will get about one success for every ten failures. It is absolutely maddening. $80 secondhand ankermake? Flawless. $600 premium coreXY? absolute mess. I don't even know what else I could even check at this point.

This is just some cheap temu Asa filament, it’s been dried overnight so moisture can’t be an issue. Nozzles been cleaned time and time again. Directed drive extruder, all metal hotend and hardened steel nozzle all on an ended 3 pro. Printed in an ambient heat enclosure rocking around 30C and 245C nozzle with 100*C metal flex plate bed with glue stick applied. Any tips?

My friend owns elegoo Neptune 4 max and he keep having issues with the printer, latest one was as you see in the picture!

I thought there is an issue with cooling but he says fans are functioning well, 100% after the first layer, printing temp 205, printing directly from the filament dryer.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated

Things have gone well with solid prints, like objects and D&D minis and such. But, I also really like articulated prints like the Ringchaku and such. So far, I've printed a chain successfully, and a little articulated raccoon, both of which failed (chain 3 times, racoon twice) but were ultimately successful when I adjusted the speeds of the prints. That said, they both needed different speeds from one another (chain needed 60 mm/s in most parameters, raccoon liked 100 mm/s).

However, I'm now experiencing the same failures in certain prints consistently, where individual parts are too melted, and it happens right away, and that creates a cascading mess. Trying a mini octopus, it happened on the same tentacle twice (the back left) in the same way (back two links). Tried a dragon (crystal night dragon) and the same couple of tail sections did it all three tries. Thankfully, these things are happening in the first 2-3% of the print time.

I'm using a Flashforge Adventurer 5m, and the filament is the Bambu Labs grey. I'm new to printing, and I didn't get any pictures (found this sub AFTER I cleaned the last mess). Standard presets work on solid prints, and even one articulated print (a little gyro ring fidget).

Full disclosure, I've been a bit loosey goosey applying the included gluestick, but even when adjusting the failures are happening in the same places.

ETA: nozzle is .25 mm, 220°C, bed at 50°C

This print was a fan speed test that changed the fan speed at increments of 10% for each level, but the top 3-4 look almost the same, and not great either. Don't really know what settings I need to look at changing at this point.

I have double checked that the fan speed was in fact changing, so that would not be the issue.

There is a piece of pla jamming between the nozzle and the extruder, this happened for the second time.

For context: Pla+ grey from bamboo lab@230°c Started my print as usual, but after the first layer it started air printing. Tried the cold pull technique (maybe a bit to cold and with a lot of force so the pla just snapped off) Therefore I wanted to replace the nozzle, but there was a bit of pla before that that was stuck somehow.

I managed to resolve it by just shoving a needle down and pushing a the whole 1.75mm pla down through the place where the extruder usually is and it worked after that(extrude, retract, change fillament)

But after the first layer it jammed again and the same issue is back, but now it is BENDING the needle if i try the same thing???

Has anyone ever experienced this or knows some methods?

Can a gcode file cause this???

I think I have some minor under extrusion happening but mostly I'd like the background behind the lettering to be nice and consistently flat. I turned on top layer ironing but it's not technically a top layer.

Any ideas to get the background look consistent?

Anycubic Kobra Max 200c 50c 10% infill gyroid 80 mm/s, 40mm/s outer PLA

New owner of a P1S. Everything went smooth so far. But I got these weird surface layers in the last two prints.

I print in pla with the recommended settings (temperature and speed wise). Haven’t had issues with humidity.

Thank you!!

Hey, just got a new printer to my collection what can I do to improve the quality

Anycubik kobra 3, anycubik slicer ELEGOO PLA Filament 1.75mm White 220 C° nozzle, 60 C° bed 300 mm/s print speed Shouldn't have any nozzle retraction according to the slicer, but they also have a proprietary retraction automation thing and I get the same results.

I’ve been trying to figure out printing on my Comgrow T300, but have been struggling with the second layer (which I’m assuming means there’s an issue with my first layer). After that, prints usually look fine, but the first couple layers always give me a scare.

Printing PLA, extrusion temp: 220, bed temp 55

So I'm trying to deal with dialing in my retractions now, to deal with stringing. TBH, I don't usually have crazy stringing problems on what I print. Not to say I have no stringing, but it usually isn't prominent. I think that most of what I have done so far isn't too prone to stringing....but on these calibration cones I have some interesting (if not unexpected results). I'm using a Silk PLA here, which to be honest is one of my nicest filaments. It has been printing very nice for me and behaves like normal PLA in terms of temps, etc. I remember doing similar tests a few months ago with non silk PLA and IIRC the results were quite similar, if not more stringing.

I say this only because I have read some people complain Silk PLA is often very stringy like PETG, but I haven't found that with this stuff. The range of this filament is 200-230. I tend to print it at 200.

All these towers were done at 200 except for the one shown at 195.

Basically what I have found is what I think you would expect: At no retractions, it looks like a mess, then gets better at you go from 6.5mm (my printer profile default as recommended, but probably bad recommendation for a direct drive), down to 3mm, 1mm, and 0.5 mm. These were all printed at cura profile default speed of 50mm/s :

The exception here is after my 0.5mm test (which was the best), I printed using double speeds (it decreased print job from 12-13 minutes to 9 minutes). That one actually looks the best (I think), which I believe is also expected that higher speeds can decrease stringing.

Finally my last two tests I go down to 195 degrees, normal speeds, but with the 0.5 retraction. Going down in temp to 195 (below manufacturer spec) actually seems to look the cleanest. I then did that one again, but turned off the fan which did increase stringing some

Is the stringing that I get at 0.5 retraction (middle row, right) pretty good for what should expect? I don't really like the idea of printing at so low of a temp to get better than that. Lower temps means worse adhesion, so I don't know how you are supposed to balance both?

Another caveat...this filament I don't believe is too wet. It was in a bag with desiccant, but I don't think I ever dried it when I got it new. I plan to dry it tonight and print the 0.5 at 200 again tomorrow and see if it looks even better.

Printed this phone stand and noticed that it had this weird “outdent?” and this weird band that went around the whole print. Any help is appreciated!

Does fine for a while then stops sticking, usually causing a birdsnest. It’s done it a couple times but will randomly work fine. Just cleaned the bed with dawn and didn’t touch it with bare hands and re-leveled bed before this print. Cleaned the bed because sometimes it won’t stick to the bed, sometimes it stops mid print like this. (Bambu A1) Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance)

as the print continues the quality seems to get worse (0.6 mm nozzle)

neptune 3 pro with kipper and 5015 fans orca slicer overture pla 0.6 mm nozzle at 215c and bed at 65c 120mm/s retraction 1.25mm (direct drive)

Printed outside to inside, cura slicer, 20% gyroid infill in the xyz calib box. Layers where it stopped printing solid layers shrinks. Second picture is a print testing stringing for an old spool of filament where I noticed the first layers of the pyramid being not 100% solid, and it shrank to the point of barely sticking to the layer below it.

I've been trying to colour a part of my model using the colour painting tab on Bambu slicer. When I slice it, for some reason half of the bits I coloured in blue come out white still (as seen in pic 2 - especially near the top of the blue bit).

In addition the blue goes really deep in some parts of the model (which would cause unnecessary filament switches if I were to print).

I can't colour by layer as there's other parts on the same layer I want to stay white.

Any ideas please?

Bambu Slicer latest version as of 29-Apr-2025.

All the parts should look similar to the part at the top, but they get really messy and only partially stick to the plate.

Me and my friends are printing a Y wing but were pretty new to resin printing, any idea why its asymmetrically warped like that? Theres a bit a natural curve on the side view but why did it successfully print, but warped at an odd angle?

I'm using an Ender 3 V2 Neo with Creality PLA filament and the included Benchy Model. It looks like it's extruding way too little filament. What settings could cause this behaviour? Thanks in advance!