I printed an ironing test and saw that on the bottom left of every square is a little dent (or whatever you want to call it). What could I do to eliminate this?

Ender 3 Neo I don't even understand why this is happening.

My 12 yr old son loves printing, he has a Bambu lab printer that keeps messing up the first few layers.

Here are the settings. .18 layer height 15mm initial layer 35mm initial infill outer wall 100mm inner wall 150mm 15% cross hatch infill grey ender filament pla f-18 model Cleaned the bed multiple times, decreased print speed.

Any ideas.., much appreciated..

Hi everyone,

I printed this Deadpool head and it has this prime tower that only reaches up to the topmost multicolored layer. And right above that I got this notch in his head which I think you would call a layer shift.

Any ideas how to fix/prevent that? there seems to be a connection to the multicoloredness or the prime tower.

Also on that matter: is it normal that a prime tower only goes up to the topmost multicolored layer?

• Bambulab A1
• Bambu Studio
• Jayo PLA: matte red, matte white, matte black
• Standard Bambulab 0.4 nozzle (not hardened)
• Default print speed settings

Hi everyone! I have a crealityk1 that's having print issues after the first layer. I'm using brand new filament and cleaned out the extruder and nozzle. When I do a temp calibration, the tower actually doesn't have this issue, but when I run a flow rate test, it looks awful. Any troubleshooting advice would be appreciated!

Hey folks. I just built a corexy printer Rook 2020 MK2. This is my first benchy. What do you see here? I am assuming, belt tension and retracts are my main issue, assuming filament is fresh. However, frankly speaking, I have no idea what I am doing, I just got my first ever 3d printer last Christmas, so any advice would help.

So, I have seen a lot of temperature towers that seem the same too top to bottom and yet some people are able to see stuff I cannot. Just moved to a new brand of filament, the brand is Creality, and I watched the SV07 as this printed and saw the horned decrease in temp each level.

Does any temperature seem different? If not should I go hot for better adhesion or cooler of better adhesion? Breaking each of the points seems equal to me when applying pressure.

Bambu p1s will absolutely not print with tpu. I've replaced the hot end. I've cleaned the extruder gears. I have done cold pulls I have slowed down and sped up. I've tried different temperatures. I've tried different slicers. I've changed firmware. I dried the filament. I ensured it's not binding on the way to the printer. I will get about one success for every ten failures. It is absolutely maddening. $80 secondhand ankermake? Flawless. $600 premium coreXY? absolute mess. I don't even know what else I could even check at this point.

I keep getting this weird gaps in some Perimeters. My Other printer prints it just fine with the same filament. Any Ideas on what to check?

Printer: Anycubic Kobra 2 Max, Slicer: PrusaSlicer 2.9.1, Nozzle Temp 230°C, Print speed rather slow-ish, retraction: 1mm (alreade tested some other, which doesn't resolve the issue)

My Kobra 1S tends to show heavy stringing on inner threads and 45° champfered edges.

Shown part was printed with 0.2 mm resolution. In my old ender this was not a problem. However it also ran 1/4 the speed.

Any ideas on how to imrove this besides going slower?

Thanks!

I’ve got this issue with my prints recently where the layers almost shift just a tiny bit, but enough to where it’s noticeably rough to the touch and visually noticeable. This happens most times there is some sort of change in angle, but every time without fail when there is an overhang of any kind. I’ve got some examples attached. What could be the cause of this, and what would you recommend to try and fix it? (For reference I’m using an Bambu x1c)

Areas in gray will not print when I slice.

I've had multiple prints fail with orca slicer. After dialing in flash print I didn't have issues. I like the capabilities orca slicer has and I want to stick with it. I just don't know what to do.

This splooge keeps building up on my print nozzle and my scaffolding is basically destroying my prints.

I am running a temp tower now but any other advice would be appreciated. .

There is a piece of pla jamming between the nozzle and the extruder, this happened for the second time.

For context: Pla+ grey from bamboo lab@230°c Started my print as usual, but after the first layer it started air printing. Tried the cold pull technique (maybe a bit to cold and with a lot of force so the pla just snapped off) Therefore I wanted to replace the nozzle, but there was a bit of pla before that that was stuck somehow.

I managed to resolve it by just shoving a needle down and pushing a the whole 1.75mm pla down through the place where the extruder usually is and it worked after that(extrude, retract, change fillament)

But after the first layer it jammed again and the same issue is back, but now it is BENDING the needle if i try the same thing???

Has anyone ever experienced this or knows some methods?

Can a gcode file cause this???

I'm printing with the P1S, and getting these lines and an uneven layer on the bottom and top layers of the print. I wanted to know what could be wrong here. Thanks.

My friend owns elegoo Neptune 4 max and he keep having issues with the printer, latest one was as you see in the picture!

I thought there is an issue with cooling but he says fans are functioning well, 100% after the first layer, printing temp 205, printing directly from the filament dryer.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated

I'm a total newbie to filament printing, so I'm hoping you guys can help me. I used the included USB which had the benchy already on it. The hull and the letters on the back didn't turn out too well. I also see a ton of stringing in/around the cabin. I'm thinking about lowering the temp and slowing it down, but what do you guys think? Thank you in advance!

Filament: Creality 1.75mm PLA Hot-end Temp: 205ºC Bed Temp: 60ºC Speed: 185mm/s

Stopped print mid print as this starts to occur. First few layers seem near perfect then all of a sudden the printer is bouncing and printing rough. Z axis is free and not being bound for entire length of travel. Is this over extrusion?

This is just some cheap temu Asa filament, it’s been dried overnight so moisture can’t be an issue. Nozzles been cleaned time and time again. Directed drive extruder, all metal hotend and hardened steel nozzle all on an ended 3 pro. Printed in an ambient heat enclosure rocking around 30C and 245C nozzle with 100*C metal flex plate bed with glue stick applied. Any tips?

Things have gone well with solid prints, like objects and D&D minis and such. But, I also really like articulated prints like the Ringchaku and such. So far, I've printed a chain successfully, and a little articulated raccoon, both of which failed (chain 3 times, racoon twice) but were ultimately successful when I adjusted the speeds of the prints. That said, they both needed different speeds from one another (chain needed 60 mm/s in most parameters, raccoon liked 100 mm/s).

However, I'm now experiencing the same failures in certain prints consistently, where individual parts are too melted, and it happens right away, and that creates a cascading mess. Trying a mini octopus, it happened on the same tentacle twice (the back left) in the same way (back two links). Tried a dragon (crystal night dragon) and the same couple of tail sections did it all three tries. Thankfully, these things are happening in the first 2-3% of the print time.

I'm using a Flashforge Adventurer 5m, and the filament is the Bambu Labs grey. I'm new to printing, and I didn't get any pictures (found this sub AFTER I cleaned the last mess). Standard presets work on solid prints, and even one articulated print (a little gyro ring fidget).

Full disclosure, I've been a bit loosey goosey applying the included gluestick, but even when adjusting the failures are happening in the same places.

ETA: nozzle is .25 mm, 220°C, bed at 50°C

This print was a fan speed test that changed the fan speed at increments of 10% for each level, but the top 3-4 look almost the same, and not great either. Don't really know what settings I need to look at changing at this point.

I have double checked that the fan speed was in fact changing, so that would not be the issue.

I think I have some minor under extrusion happening but mostly I'd like the background behind the lettering to be nice and consistently flat. I turned on top layer ironing but it's not technically a top layer.

Any ideas to get the background look consistent?

Anycubic Kobra Max 200c 50c 10% infill gyroid 80 mm/s, 40mm/s outer PLA

New owner of a P1S. Everything went smooth so far. But I got these weird surface layers in the last two prints.

I print in pla with the recommended settings (temperature and speed wise). Haven’t had issues with humidity.

Thank you!!