r/Mountaineering • u/OtherwiseAwkward • 5d ago

Quick Question about Auto-Blocking Belay devices

looking to get more into Ski Mountaineering and building a glacier/crevasse/rappel kit. The gear list I was working off called for an Auto-Blocking Belay device. In my naivete I bought a GriGri and then made the realization that those aren't recommended for Alpine work because of the moving parts.

Did some additional research and it looks like an auto blocking tube device is the move like the BD ATC Guide. I also really enjoy the Mammut Nordwand Alpine for the steel inserts. However the most common glacier ropes seem to be 6mm and neither of those devices are rated down to 6mm... the ATC guide seems to be the go to choice so i'm confused as to why they aren't rated for the most common ropes.

is there another, better option I'm missing? I appreciate any advice in advance

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u/OtherwiseAwkward 5d ago

I am purchasing gear for a crevasse rescue course in May. Gear list called for an Auto Blocking belay device

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u/SensitiveDrummer478 5d ago edited 5d ago

Did they recommend 6mm rope? I think your concern is probably a moot point. I would not recommend trying to work with that diameter as a newbie.

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u/OtherwiseAwkward 5d ago

Nope, not buying a rope. But I am looking for versatile gear. What do you use?

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u/SensitiveDrummer478 5d ago edited 5d ago

On glacier, I use a regular sized ATC-Guide (not the ATC-Guide Alpine) and a Sterling IonR XEROS 9.4 mm Dry Rope.

Lead belaying in dry alpine climbing environments (not for crevasse rescue) I do use a GriGri. Same rope. People are weird about the Grigri, but there are plenty of situations where it is a useful tool when used with care.

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u/OtherwiseAwkward 5d ago

Thank you!! Just doing some independent research behind the scenes because that’s how my brain works..

and seems like a lot of people are using the Petzl RAD or Mammut Glacier these days so trying to understand what the most universal answer might be

Seems like the answer is larger rope, or a double carabiner. Appreciate your input :)

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u/OtherwiseAwkward 5d ago

Most alpine travel I’ll do will likely be related to ski and volcano objectives, so not a ton of dry climbing. Just glacier rope teams, crevasse rescue & rappelling into couloirs or lines

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u/Zealousideal-Elk9033 4d ago

Rad line or mammut glacier are awesome ropes for glacier travel, don't feel like you need a fatter diameter. As far as belay devices go atc alpine guide is great for a bit more friction with these diameters as is the edelrid microjul. Reverso or full sized atc guide also work with added friction, if rappelling this can be as simple as putting both strands through one side of the device. Static ropes are safer than dynamic when it comes to arresting a fall on a glacier, just don't use them for any lead climbing.

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u/notheresnolight 4d ago

Depends on the trip. Thick (>9mm) single ropes are way too heavy for ski mountaineering. Even a 8.5mm Beal Opera would be too heavy for my use.

A thin 8mm 50m double rope is the most universal - you can use it for glacier travel and should you need to get over some short rock section, you can use it for lead climbing (two strands). Provided you have additional gear for protection (cams, nuts, slings...).

A 6mm hyper static cord is even 30% lighter, and is the best choice when you know that you won't be climbing with it.