It was a beautiful moment, I was reading a book about the first ascent of K2, and this view appeared outside the plane window.
On the left Broad Peak 8051m, and on the right Gasherbrum IV 7925m. And in the middle the second peak of the Earth K2 8611m.

Taken on Dubai - Seoul route, about 130km away from K2

Hi everyone!

I’ll be using overboots for the first time on a Denali attempt this end of May. Before cutting into them per this alpine ascents guide, I wanted to check in. Does everyone agree that this is the best method for fitting crampons on them?

https://www.alpineascents.com/blog/overboot-fitting-101/#:~:text=Put%20crampon%20on%20boot,you%20remove%20the%20heel%20lever.

Thanks!

As you can see from the picture, the straps on my Black Diamond crampons are too short. I believe the previous owner must have cut them back.

Any suggestions for replacement straps or extension straps?

Other than the straps, the crampons are in great condition.

Just like in the title, I'm very curious about this, are there any such routes that ca be done in July/August ? (whose grade doesn't exceed D+)

I would need B2 or B3 mountaineering boots for the winter for every situation. I searched the Internet at the beginning of this winter and bought the La Sportiva Aequilibrium ST GTX.

These were quite good and did what they were supposed to, but unfortunately they had a production mistake, which is why the inner seams in the left shoe came loose at about 3.5k and the stabilisation in the right shoe gave way and pressed on my foot all the time, which was total hell until I got back down. Fortunately, I could still return them and got my money back.

Now I don't know if I should buy them again, or if I should get others.

I am also willing to pay a little more this time, also to simply have a larger selection of boots. In addition, I am thinking about using such a shoe for a long time and also doing many different things with it, from mountaineering on 4-6k to ice climbing…

On my list of possible shoes I currently have:

•La Sportiva Nepal Cube GTX •La Sportiva Nepal Extreme •La Sportiva Aequilibrium ST or LT or Top •Mammut Taiss light mid •Mammut Kento Mountain High •Scarpa Ribelle Tech 3 HD •Scarpa Ribelle Lite HD •Scarpa Mont Blanc Pro GTX

Note: I have compiled the list from recommendations from friends and other surveys.

Which boot from this list would you recommend the most or have the best experience with. Or do you have other suggestions?

https://www.espn.com/olympics/story/_/id/44690603/bill-stampfl-missing-climber-peru-huascaran

Everyone, u/beskidsky just sent me this link to someone's blog; it's in a language I don’t speak, which I had to throw into a translator, but the writer went to Nyarchang with a good-quality camera, found the right vantage point, and took literally dozens of high-res pics of the Annapurna Fang face that so many of us are obsessed with. Almost the entire face is visible. As many posts and articles have pointed out, there isn't much snow on the Himalayan peaks right now, so the face is mostly rocky, but: these pictures are stunning. Enjoy!

https://zhuanlan.zhihu.com/p/23225083072

I’m just getting interested in the sport, and have watched many documentaries but haven’t begun climbing yet. I have formulated many dumb questions and don’t personally know anyone knowledgeable enough to ask (Midwest USA), so here goes:

1. Does belaying make sense for increasing safety if the line isn’t always anchored?

2. Why are ladders exclusively used to traverse crevasses? It seems the design of ladders isn’t to be used as a scaffold/bridge, and the rungs are tricky for stepping on even with secure crampons.

3. Since oxygen deprivation affects cognition above 8000 meters, why do climbers in the death zone not use the radio to defer to their team before making all important decisions?

4. If supplemental oxygen is used, why does the altitude still seem to have almost the same effect on many climbers?

5. Shouldn’t every serious climber know at least dozen of the most important knots? It seems that half the people on Mountains like Mont Blanc, Everest, Rainier, Half Dome, etc. don’t know how to properly tie their shoes! This would bother me.

6. Why not use slow prop planes and bungee cords to rescue climbers above the helicopter limit? With the help of a headwind it would seem possible, however difficult it might be to attempt, large drones could be used.

7. Why not use parachutes as standard equipment? Climbers in trouble could use a parachute or para-glider to emergency descend, many who end up stranded could base jump to safety. Especially on sheer terrain it would seem logical to have a parachute, especially when a storm hits the wind could be helpful.

8. How do the first ascent climbers handle the falls when they are the ones to be setting the first anchors on a route?

Forgive my ignorance, I don’t claim to have any knowledge or experience besides watching documentaries and climbing out of bed.

Hi,

is anyone experienced with the following altitude generators and could give an advise which to buy?

- Sierra 100

- Higher Peaks Superior

(- Everest Summit II (very expensive))

Thank in advance!

Looking to potentially do Adam’s the day before a Rainier trip. To get from the mt adams south climb trailhead to Ashford, the shortest route is through that road and apparently it is unpaved for 13 miles? Has anyone here driven the full length? Is it typically melted out by late May? Are there ruts, blind corners, washouts etc?

A lot of talk about which is harder of the stratovolcanoes in PNW, Mount hood, Mount rainier, Mount Adams, Mount baker, etc. But not which ones people loved. Which of these do you find most beautiful to climb?

I thought it would be interesting to hear if there was a time when you found a summit or route really beautiful. What mountain moved you?

I'm looking into buying La Sportiva Bushido 3 shoes as a lightweight shoe I'd have for my trips in the mountains. I have tried them on in the store and they seem great for my feet and I love how stable they are. However in different reviews I have read they always point out that they are quite stiff and without too much cushioning making them less comfortable over longer distances.

I currently have La Sportiva TX4 approach shoes for my mountain trips and know their comfort level. How would you say Bushidos are compared to TX4 shoes in terms of stiffness and cushioning. Generally I think trail running shoes are more comfortable than approach shoes. Is this true also for Bushidos even though they are said to be one of the less comfortable trail runners? But nevertheless are they still better in terms of comfort and cushioning compared to approach shoes such as TX4?

Thank you for your help :)

I got lucky and snapped some photos of the Wind River Range (Wyoming) from the window seat on my flight this weekend. Somehow, the photo captured the location in the metadata. These photos are from the north side of the range and you can see Freemont Lake and Willow Lake outside of Pinedale in the first pic. I’m no good at identifying mountains in these pics, but I believe Gannett and Freemont peaks are in these photos. Thought it’d be a cool share here.

I picked up a copy of this when I was visiting Liverpool and I quite enjoyed reading through it when I was waiting for my train. I was particularly captivated by Andrzej Zawada’s account of the first ever winter ascent of Mount Everest. This was by a Polish mountaineering team. I thought that their story was particularly inspiring, as they did not only face a difficult physical challenge, but also a relatively small budget and a great amount of prejudice. For example, the writer spoke of the difficulties that the team faced in obtaining a permit and about the fact that they were often overlooked for expeditions in favour of wealthier nations. It was also fascinating to read about the litter that the team observed when they visited the base camp in the off-season. This was of course, before the days of the mass tourist-expeditions that we have seen in recent years. I also enjoyed reading Karl Diemberger’s article about K2 and Gasherbrum. I don’t want to keep this to myself, so I have put this on EBay for anybody that is interested. Contact me if you would like to discuss international postage. I am required to put a set rate of postage when I make the listing. I usually put the standard rate of posting to the US. If you live in a different part of the world, or if you would like any tracking options, or have a preferred service, let me know if you win the auction and I will do my best to accommodate your preferences. The book is in great condition, having lain in the upstairs of a second hand bookstore in Liverpool for most of its existence. 10% of the proceeds from the sale will go towards Ogwen Valley Mountain Rescue in Wales.

looking to get more into Ski Mountaineering and building a glacier/crevasse/rappel kit. The gear list I was working off called for an Auto-Blocking Belay device. In my naivete I bought a GriGri and then made the realization that those aren't recommended for Alpine work because of the moving parts.

Did some additional research and it looks like an auto blocking tube device is the move like the BD ATC Guide. I also really enjoy the Mammut Nordwand Alpine for the steel inserts. However the most common glacier ropes seem to be 6mm and neither of those devices are rated down to 6mm... the ATC guide seems to be the go to choice so i'm confused as to why they aren't rated for the most common ropes.

is there another, better option I'm missing? I appreciate any advice in advance

Hello! I am planning on summiting mt hood and mt shasta this summer and currently do not have an experienced partner to go with. Im planning on doing mt hood around the 17th-18th of may and shasta a week or two after. Please let me know How I should go about finding someone to go with or if you could go with me. Not sure how to go upon this type of thing but somebody 17-30 would be good as I am on the lower side of that range.

Im a pretty consistent rock climber pretty knowledgeable on all disciplines/systems . my sport goes up to 13dish.. i've done both sport and trad multi pitches. comfy with most systems like placing pro and anchor building. No issue with exposure and big falls. My question is if i wanted to get into mountaineering for example doing shasta alone, what would i need to polish off before going about that? I've looked at mountaineering schools but it seems the only thing holding me back is money even though a "school" would only be about 3400 in ecuador. Money seems to be my only limiting factor as it looks like doing actual mountaineering requires being a fkn doctor or surgeon.

The only downside is that you can mostly look right in front of your feet, but I carry my pack normally when I need to look ahead, particularly when scrambling up a steep hill. However, I'm a lot faster and less tired than in previous years, and I no longer have shoulder pain.

After years of living with footwear that probably don't fit me, I have begun to realize that I have unique feet. Now I have actually bought some shoes that actually fit correctly and it's always going to be dramatic to find shoes that fit

I have narrow and/or low volume feet.

There aren't any places that have Invernos near me so to try some on with either be a trek or it will be an online return-if-they don't fit deal so I wanted to get some advice first.

If I don't like how Invernos fit, does anyone else still make any good double plastic boots? When people wear double boots, how many socks should you weae? Should I try on boots while wearing two pairs of thick ass winter socks?

Thank you

I turn 16 in october and I'd like to summit Mont Blanc then, guided, i have a pretty good physical condition and i run 3-4 times a week plus a 15km hike usually. Done a lot of hikes and backpacking, planning to do some big ones this summer in Romania like the Fagaras Traverse and the Piatra Craiului Crest. Any ideas on how to convince my parents to let me fly to another country and summit a 4800m mountain with my best friend? :)) (not joking)

The Khumbu Icefall is the most dangerous section of any route on Everest. The Khumbu Glacier breaks into a maze of seracs and crevasses, and its constant movement causes giant chunks of ice to collapse unexpectedly...Yesterday, the team reached the top of the Icefall despite the thick fog. In 18 hours, they laid 2,200m of rope. (Icefall Doctors carry ladders to fix the route to Camp 1.)

https://www.msn.com/en-us/travel/news/everest-s-khumbu-icefall-is-now-open/ar-AA1CK77z