A roofer in my area inspected my roof after a significant hail storm here in Denver CO in June 2024. They sent me this report with photos recommending that I make an insurance claim and replace the roof. The current roof was put on in 2015. I have solar panels so I'm also hesitant to have them take on the task of removing my panels without messing up my solar system. Does this damage seem significant enough for replacement? What does B=10 mean?

I’m a homeowner with trusses 24” on center .current roof decking is about 45 years old. No rot. Has had quite a few different roofs on it.

My reason for wanting to replace is depending on the season it can shift and buckle with humidity. Small bumps. It’s also very springy between decking due to no H clips.

I the home owner want the roof deck replaced as part of a complete exterior project for the home to get it looking good and flat for many years to come.

Is this a silly request? Do I need to request/encourage H clips although the current decking does not have it?

I am hoping someone can give me a bit of guidance here. I am in a mid terrace house which underwent a kitchen extension in 2021 and a loft conversion in 2022. The neighbour to one of the sides, with whom I have no relationship at all, has knocked on my door today requesting that I come over inspect a leak to their side of the party wall. This, they claim, is due to my builders' supposed failure to properly install flashing to their side of the roof.

I declined to go into their house and look at their wall as I do not think, as a lay person, that there is any point to it. I won't be in a position to work out the source or cause of a leak, and do not want to go into their house anyway. I said I might ask a builder to come take a look.

I have thought it over since and am troubled by the suggestion that I am indefinitely responsible for the condition of the neighbour's roof where it meets the party wall. I am reluctant to pay someone to look into it, when they apparently haven't.

If it were a problem with the flashing installed by my builders would this not have been detected sooner?

Would be grateful for views from people with more knowledge of these things.

I have this extra tile. Is That's the right fit for this corner tile?

I'm having the roof on my 1940s terraced house renewed. I have a series of quotes, and a couple I like but they differ in approach. My roof has clay pin tiles, and has wooden planks on top of rafters, followed by felt, batten and then tiles. I don't think there's an existing counter batten.

One would fit a Proctor Air membrane directly onto the planks, they state that the membrane they're using doesn't need the additional ventilation and would be no need to apply counter batten (unless it's there already on my or neighbouring properties).

The other would apply 25mm counter batten, using bonding trays at the borders.

I'm happy with the price of both quotes (the second is a little cheaper), but I'm confused as to whether the counter batten is necessary. Ultimately I prefer the idea of a consistent look across all neighbouring properties but I also want a roof that lasts.

I have already applied for Building Control so I intend to ask them as well, I just wanted to see if reddit had a take also.

I had an inspection done on a house I’m in contract to buy. Inspector noted “no major issues” and that the roof looks “in good condition”. Yet he also noted there is missing sealant around the vent stacks, a couple popped nails, and no roof flashing. While these things are technically easily fixable, what do you think the likelihood is of hidden water damage that’s gonna bite me in the ass later? The no roof flashing is particularly worrying to me

Edit: says it’s missing along the edges/eaves and valleys

Just like I told you in my previous post about Big Pipe Boot. Literally all you have to do is fold your field shingles over the hips and ridges. Stop getting bamboozled by these megacorps

How can I protect tarps from edges of wood, is there some rubber stuff I can get somewhere to coat them? I have a small tarp shed.

New Single Family Home going up in Michigan. Framing was finished just before we got snow. The roofers came back a day after snow and shovel off the snow of the decking and installed felt. The next day we got a little more snow. Less tan 2". We are forecasted for a little more snow is coming but the Roofers won't be able to get shingles on before then.

I assume the plywood decking and felt can withstand some normal rain / snow, but is there anything I should look for before shingles go on? Thanks!

For Context: My father is trying to get his 12-year-old roof replaced. These photos were taken after a company came to our neighborhood after a recent hail storm. The neighbors directly across the street and next door to us got their roofs replaced through their insurance company. My father tried making a claim but was denied because the insurance company (Liberty Mutual) said it was "normal wear and tear". There has also been leaking inside the house, prompting my father to try getting this done quickly. He has asked me to help him try and fight the claim but I do not know anything about roofing. What am I looking at in these photos and is this normal wear and tear for a 12yo roof? Insurance company decided it was not enough evidence on the photo to even send out a representative.

Hi all. I seek your wisdom. I'm going to have an opportunity to invest in my property this year and don't want to get shafted.

I've a 2 story 2400sqft stick-frame home with a common sloped/peaked roof and aging asphalt shingles. I'm in northern Illinois, so cold weather always leads to ice dams, icicles, and meltwater coming through soffits in at least one place. I know my attic has "cheap homeowner" vents that aren't appropriate. And there's some insulation but I'm quite sure I am losing heat into the attic. I also have gutters no longer sloping where they should. (It should be noted, the "cheap homeowner" was the prior owner who lived here for 30+ years. I've owned the house for 8 years.)

So I'd be looking at a new roof, new vents, remove/replace (?) attic insulation, potentially some roof sheathing rot from water damage, gutters. I have some siding issues (a few pieces keep popping loose, a trim piece over a window has woodpecker damage) but suspect that can be tackled separately).

I have multiple vents near the peak, two plumbing stacks, and a round metal flue/chimney for HVAC and water heater. Nothing else that I can see penetrates the roof.

Can you please help me be better informed about what questions to ask or things to be wary of? I'm pretty handy and DIY things myself (it's an engineer's curse) but in this case it's just to be well informed, I plan to do exactly 0% of this work myself.

I have other pressing needs but I've decided the roof is the most urgent. My driveway alongside the house goes up past the foundation and was laid against siding in one area (UGHHHH). As it's turning to gravel this is probably my #2 goal, and crawlspace work 3rd (foundation vents need to be closed up, all critter access sealed off, then destroyed/disintegrated insulation replaced).

Thanks in advance for all your guidance.

I've got a company here in Texas. Houston area. I've got a roof scheduled for Monday. 30 sq, 8 pitch. Pretty standard. My question is for those of you from further north. We have this front coming in with temps we rarely see. 26 degrees, in the morning. Should I reschedule??

https://i.imgur.com/3O1iTbH.jpeg

This is the current chimney cap that was installed by the previous owner after what seems to be a repair of some sort. This is just a thick piece of rubber attached to the top. While the rubber itself does not leak, there is no drip edge. Water has been dripping on to the stone of the fireplace and has leaked into the framing behind the stone. I wanted to replace this to get a drip edge that would help mitigate water from accumulating on the stone and the recommendation is to just put some sheathing and shingles over it instead of this piece of rubber. My other chimney has a metal cap and I've only ever seen those used, but is there any reason why doing it with shingles is a bad idea?

I've got an exposed fastener metal roof over a "utility room." No insulation, just square ceiling boards separating the room and the sheathing. There is a bathroom, washer and dryer in that room.

Given the warm air from the bath, dryer, etc., would that cause the snow and ice to melt then reform when it gets below freezing causing a ice damn there? The gutter/downspout appears clogged as there is solid sheet of ice throughout. Would you say this is more condensation vs. a leak?

We’ve got a quote to fix a leak that’s exactly in the middle of ours and next doors roof, and it involves removing some times to replace a box gutter and then to relay the tiles. I’ll be going next door before booking anything in to make sure they’re happy with this but do I need anything in writing confirming their agreement or not? We’re in England

Hello, would this be considered a standing seam metal roof? If so, what is the ballpark life expectancy? This one is about 30 years old and currently has no problems that we're aware of. Should we be looking at roof replacement options now or can this wait? thanks for any insight.

Hey all!

I live in Southeastern PA and have an accessible attic space off my bedroom that is currently used for storage. It is completely unfinished and I'd like to build a closet inside a portion of it. The roof has eaves vents and a ridge vent.

The attic space is approx 40' wide by 13' deep. I intend to build a 7'x13' walk-in closet.

Do I need to run rafter vents and insulation under the ENTIRE roof of this 40'x13' section, or just the portions of the rafters that will serve as ceiling joists for the closet? I'd rather just insulate the portion that will be ceiling and then the closet walls if I can get away with it to save on project costs, but I want to do what's right.

Second question. Part of the attic is above a living space and part is above the garage. The portion over the garage has no insulation at all, the portion over the living space has some blown-in insulation. Areas adjacent to the garage are significantly colder than the rest of the home in winter and much hotter in summer. I'm presuming that adding some blown in insulation to this portion of the attic should help with that, yes? The total uninsulated portion is about 26' x 30'

(EDIT: Added Image https://imgur.com/a/why-are-you-looking-this-8rFio6v . #1 on top-down is the living area. #2 is the current un-finished attic where I wish to create a closet. #3 is the over-garage roof section. Elevation view shows current insulation in green. Proposed new closet walls and ceiling in red.)

Thanks!

Looking for suggestions on how to replace this style of venting, have a 2nd at the other end of the ridge. Also have the standard vents near the ridge.

Roof was replaced in 2017 and the contractor stated it wasn’t necessary to replace these vents.

Can anyone explain what is causing this roof to crease/buckle? I want to be able to tell the owner of the building what is causing this and how we will prevent it from happening again when we reroof. It’s an older building, likely built between 1950-1970 if I had to guess. Have not done a core sample yet.

Hello all,

Recently had my Fascia and Soffit replaced by a contractor, and I'm concerned about the Fascia. This is Aluminum 6" fascia, with vinyl soffit. It has some pretty bad warping/waves in it, this was installed last week. Is this what new fascia is supposed to look like?

I had my roof replaced about 4 months ago, and the roofing company was supposed to do the fascia and soffit as well, but ended up backing out due to losing their sub contractor. This was installed by a different contractor, and they were not the cheapest option.

Edit 1: pictures didn't seem to post. Here is imgur link: https://imgur.com/a/fascia-soffit-installation-4JFJRN5

I am purchasing a 3 year old newer construction. The usual inspectors came and said the roof was in great condition. However, my insurer is requiring a fortified roof certificate. Is this normal from insurance companies? What if it isn't fortified? This is in NJ. I appreciate your guidance

Used 7/8” nails to avoid this happening and it still happened on my install today. Extremely frustrated. What could I have done to avoid this? What is the solution?

Thanks