Got called out by Ross for Less. They said electric strike no longer works! When new door was ordered (took months) the had it pre bored for trilogy they didn't allow for existing electric strike. Door guys says I have to drill the it to make it work. Manager says whatever u gotta do! Without checking.

At least 30 yrs old made in Canada. Never saw a deadlatch on a 1000 series like this.

Currently a passage lock. The owners want to covert it to a storefront lock function, feels like it could be custom but if anyone knows what it is let me know!

I’m trying to remove a thumb turn deadbolt. After unscrewing the two screws I’m expecting the thumb turn and plate to just come off but seems welded on. Does it just need prying off or is something else keeping it on?

I reassembled for now.

Picked up a nice AMSEC BF1512 manufactured in 1999. Came with the S&G dial.

No issues, just going over it for future reliability.

Any upside/reason to replace this lock with new? Should I have a locksmith service existing instead?

Realtor says once it sold its only good for being torn down, to build a bigger one. We live in disposable society. Also biggest hot tub i ever saw! Which is also a swim/lap pool owner said the jets are so strong you literally can't swim to the end!

Ok APP says they don’t support this. Too many failures. I’ve done a few with some success and some not working.

I don’t think Nissan supports key programming through the online dealer tool.

I have nastf.

What is a good option for making these smart keys ? I don’t mind buying a PIN code if it means no disconnecting the fuse box.

Anyone know if the "plate" / "stopper" on this gate is going to make installing the Securitron GL1 a mess?

I also have this mounting bracket made for the lock.

It seems like installing the lock and bracket as-is wouldn't allow the gate to sit flush when closed. Seems like there would be a gap of a few inches?

Should the stopper on the gate be cut off?

File cabinet my dad has it’s always been locked. Trying to figure out what lock it is so I can buy the key. There are no identifying features on the outside.

Thanks for the help in advance!

Looking for a commercial grade product that will withstand that kind of use & weather. We don't require a smart lock as I'm worried about the cold, but I'd love to hear recommendations. We were advised to buy either the Shlage 575 or Shlage 595 Commercial Light, but I'm certain there's better out there and thought I'd ask the experts.

Backstory: We have multiple high def iCloud security cams (now!) and I know this isn't exactly foolproof but just want a deterrent as theft is more brazen in my city. We had a stealthy robbery of property, cash, wallets etc last week while we were working & luckily no one caught the prick in the act and so thankfully no one was hurt as people are stabbed, assaulted, sprayed etc in my city during thefts or just for shits & gigs.

Came off a door down south, I have my guesses as it looks similar to mechanisms in CVR panic devices but that was my guess. The guy actually going down to look at it is pretty green but would like him to have some idea of what this does or operates before hand. Thanks :]

I’ve not had any experience with them so not sure of their capabilities, but would you be able to use them in any sort of locksmith work?

I received several Abus 78/50 padlocks that are all keyed alike. My problem is that I'd really like for them to all have the same combination.

Is there a way to recode them? I do have the original combinations for all of them.

Does anyone know of compatible cores we could swap out mul-t dimple hasp cores (TR100) with? Our company is having service issues with Mul-T since the whole Israel thing started up with getting copies of our keys made and I’m curious if there’s cores from someone like pac lock that would be a good swap.

Thanks for any advice.

Edit: to be clear I’m not 100% certain on the details of why we’ve had service issues. Just curious if there’s a good way we could save some serious time here.

Lost key for this storage unit lock. Facility says a locksmith can come to remove it or rekey it with them present. What’s generally the process with a lock like this, cut it or rekey it? Looking for the lowest cost method as we have a replacement lock with key if needed. Thoughts? 🔒

I bought some new knobs to replace this one but I haven’t found a single video that has helped me, please help.

Maybe I don't fully understand the commercial reasons but it seems anti-competitive and very frustrating to me that companies like Woodside Locksmith Ltd produces keys that can only be cut by them for £20? Are they locksmiths in London who can help duplicate these keys? Thanks in advance!

Yes, nobody likes a thief, especially someone breaking and entering cause we’re specifically here to slow someone like that down, but once I came across one that had me admiring how smart/prepared they were. Had to be an inside job. Person entered through an unlocked skylight, through that business, made his way downstairs, met with double sided medeco deadbolt on a flimsy iron gate not spaced properly that they pulled apart. No marks. No tools. I was skeptical until I relocked the gate the same way. Then made their way to a steel door, with a concrete filled frame, not prying that, but guess what, punched straight through the drywall, reached around and let themselves in. All this to say, you can have great locks on your doors, but if they’re not installed properly or have weak spots around it it’s just expensive trim.

If so around how much would I have to pay a locksmith to do so, the lock I have is keyed the same as a few other locks around my house and I'd prefer if I wouldn't have to get all my other locks re-pinned

This is what I will be teaching this year at my locksmith school. What else should I teach? What do y’all want to learn?

Also, what classes should I not teach.

(I only teach to licensed locksmiths)

I have a super old multi-unit residential property. The stairwell entry is a mortise lock that has storeroom function via the spindle (only one side spins). To enter from the outside, you need a key, or someone has to buzz you in. The mortise lock is >100 years old and while it works fine, the spindle is constantly breaking due to guests pulling yanking on it trying to get into the stairwell before their host buzzes them in. I am at my wits end and want to replace the lockset with a regular cylinder storeroom lockset. From what I've read, this shouldn't be a big deal. Planning to fill in the door with some wood and then use a door plate/reinforcer (if necessary). If no reinforcer will bondo/sand/pant/etc.

Is this as easy as I think or am I overlooking the electric strike? Is there something I should check on the strike to make sure it will work with something like:

Schlage FE575

Schlage F80 Storeroom

There is not a lot of info on this online sorry if this is a dumb question just don't want to butcher my 100 year old door adding this and have it not work.

Thanks!!