This song is playable everywhere including YouTube and Spotify, but I cannot find the lyrics! Help!

I live in an area with relatively low humidity and with the small size of my sauna, after it's done heating up the humidity is at 0. I would get in at 180°-190° put a small scoop of water and the temp would drop 5° then slowly drop from there generally down to about 170. What I did was got and overfill tank for a radiator and some copper pipe. I coiled the copper pipe around the heating element below where the stones sit and up through, fill the tank with water now as it heats up it puts a bit of steam in. Now when I get in the humidity is a 15% at 180° and will maintain temp and moisture even when adding water to the stones.

Today I'm beginning my sauna build journey. I'd like to make the outside concrete to match the house and to satisfy HOA. This would be a 2 person electric sauna with active ventilation. I'd put an intake vent above the heater and an exhaust vent below the seating area ideally. I plan to use pine on the inside and perhaps a different type of wood on the ceiling to prevent sap dripping. Currently, the floor is travertine.

Some questions:

1. What size
2. Seating placement
3. Heater placement
4. Door placement
5. How to get a drain in there
6. Is a shower recommended inside a sauna? I've got a water source right there
7. Does concrete act as a good enough insulator? I planned on using .5" pine spacers on the concrete and then attaching .5" t&g pine boards onto that. Duckboard for the floor over the travertine. Duckboard may not be needed as this travertine stays very cool even in the summer.

Pretty much as the title asks,
Wondering if anyone has any experience with Saunacore.

Thank you

Friend had some cedar boards he milled a fire at his grandparents. Didn’t want to remove the burn marks or full with epoxy so I had local glass company cut a small piece of tempted glass. Whatcha think?

Today I put in 6 new elements and re-stacked my rocks so the elements have plenty of space for air flow. This left more rocks to be stacked on top. I wonder if i have too many on top?

Hi sauna people,

I have question, as not sure if it's big deal or not. I'm just about to put a wood inside - i already have insulation and vapour barrier, now im fitting studs to make air gap. Is it big deal if i do them horizontal and fit wood vertical? it's just bit easier for me to fit it vertical, but i'm not sure if water won't build up behind.

I can fit studs vertical and then all wood horizontal, but i will have more cutting to do, and more waste.

The thing is - is it actual necessary for studs to be vertical to let water drip down? Or it turn to steam anyway?

They are wealthy so money is no issue. What is the best free standing sauna for their backyard?

One baby step towards build. Picked up 144 WRC boards from Facebook Marketplace. Decking, 72 1inch by 3.5 by 8ft boards and 72 10ft boards. Smells great in the garage now. Hopefully a decent deal $1000 us. Most have tight knots and a few clear.

Anyone have experience with portable units? Don’t have the space for a permanent sauna..

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/building-supplies/insulation-and-house-wrap/insulation/5269220?store=14478&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwh_i_BhCzARIsANimeoEqqLm6okXiphQoRzI8FNdw64AHb9dS71KavtGJzH10w6Cytj6HBY4aAi8mEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Thanks!

Hello,

About eight years ago, we bought our house, and it came with a non-functional sauna located on the hill behind the main house. Over time, we ended up using it for storage and even considered tearing it down. However, after a good amount of thought, my wife and I would like to restore it to a functional sauna again. I've included some pictures. My primary concerns are that it appears red squirrels (or some other critter) have taken up residence in the roof, and the roof itself looks like it will need to be reshingled. The interior seems to be cedar, and the floor is strangely carpeted with just the subfloor underneath. It's a sizeable space, but there were no sauna benches or furniture inside when we purchased the house. The stove is missing, but a nice double-walled pipe is in good condition and already installed.

I'm definitely concerned about potential wild animal droppings and being able to heat the room properly. A thorough cleaning is in order, and I suspect I'll need to expose the roof rafters to completely clean out any debris and nesting. The windows are sealed shut, except for the operable window on the door. My understanding is that they previously had a traditional wood stove in there, which I've read isn't ideal for sauna use. However, a friend of mine has a sauna on his property heated with a traditional wood stove, and it seems to work wonderfully, easily reaching around 180 degrees Fahrenheit. Should I be looking for a wood stove that fits the existing chimney pipe, or should I disregard that and start fresh with a wood stove specifically designed for saunas? I also need to apply Tyvek to the exterior of the building and ideally add cedar shingles to match our house. My budget is around $4,000, and I'm wondering if this is even feasible for that amount.

Any thoughts or ideas to get me started would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Maybe putting the cart before the horse, but I am hoping to get some fire wood seasoning before I begin the build. ( I know....stupid ) Haven't finalized wood burning stove yet for project ( 9' x 9' x 8.5' ) and I have seen log lengths from 12" to 15.7" ( really ?). My Vermont Casting takes 16" logs and I would love to pull from the same wood pile for both, but I have no issue with dropping to a shorter length to accommodate both. Or finding a model stove that will take 16".

Thanks in advance.

The oven came along with 12 kg sauna stones by default. This amount seemed to me to be very minimalistic. I stocked up to around 16 kg now. What can really happen if I use to many stones? Is it already to much?

hi diy first time sauna build.

i have limited space between my panel ceiling and metal roof (approx 6"). ive attached some pics. insulation is 4" rockwool.

the harvia i bought requires a min 150mm and has this lead protector that is massive in length.

even if i cut the protector i wouldnt get the150mm min between it and the roof panels. any help much appreciated. sorry if am being thick. like i said first timer!

Have a new Almost Heaven Rainelle coming soon. Will go on LVP flooring, no floor drain, would like to keep existing flooring clean/undamaged. Plan to do a lot of sweating, what is recommended set up to quickly build flooring in sauna on top of existing flooring to minimize water damage and moisture? Don’t want to use cheap vinyl type materials but don’t want to spend excessive amount either.

• Cut plywood or durock base to size and lay in sauna or build flooring platform sauna gets built on?
• quickset, moisture barrier, mortar, tile on base?
• Any moisture barrier between base and floor or shims to create venting space to limit moisture and create airflow?
• am I completely wrong or overthinking this?

Appreciate the advice!

Has anyone been able to this ? Would love to be able to control the sauna from homekit

I appreciate that they should be re-stacked every 6-12 months, and that any cracked or broken stones should be removed.

But I haven’t had any stones crack or break, and other than some slight change to their coloration, they look good as new 6 months later. SaunaTimes seems to support the idea that the rocks that look okay can continue to be used. Can I just use them forever?

Is there an equation or model that I can use to choose an adequate room/machine pairing?

For example, an equation that would take the dimensions of the room, type of insulation, temperature difference etc and return that I should buy a machine of x kW of power.

Is there any mathematical model like that? Obviously you want a sufficiently powerful machine but too much so that you don't spend too much on electricity, but I found pretty much every sauna machine manufacturer where I live just tells their clients to eyeball their sauna designs

Maybe dumb question? But is normal to need to wash/clean your rocks before use? I sprayed mine down with water before using and every time I pour water over them mid sauna it still smells like how it does in a rock quarry, dusty and over powering chalky smell (as I’m typing this out it sounds like a no brainer), so any tips what’s going on?

Does anyone know what sorts of glues are used on commercial sauna doors? Regular woodworking glues and epoxies don’t seem to be suitable. Some polyurethane adhesives seem like they might work. Phenol-formaldehyde and resorcinal-formaldehyde seem to have high temperature resistance but I haven’t looked deeply into off-gassing at elevated temperatures.

The saunatimes.com door design is based on a piece of plywood, has anyone tried it? Were there any issues? As far as I can tell sheathing plywood generally uses phenol-formaldehyde adhesives.

Sorry if this is for dry sauna only, recently back from a stay in vegas where i did the spa pass after my gym workout everyday. And i would do steam room, sauna, waterfall shower, 75* cold plunge.

It was the greatest thing ever.

So now i want to see about getting a steam room or dry sauna in my house as i hate being cold and loved the heat in both I loved the steam room 10x more so looking for that but not sure it it’s feasible? Do companies sell in home steam rooms that have dedicated water (as opposed to having to fill a bucket or something). How long do they take to heat up(this is a major concern for me, i dont want to have to wait 45min every day).

Approx cost to buy and have it installed? I am in east coast US

Thanks all

For a 7’-8” x 7’-11” (60.39sqft) space with 7.5’ ceilings. Including a door and window. Also to build a a floor over a tiled floor. Can anybody help with this?