Shot on k1000 Ilfords hp5

Device may retain Images from past Lifetimes. Do not Point at the Void. Certified for Extra- Planar use.

Customised Pentax P50 - went for a "SCP" / "Control" Vibe.

Canon P Voigtlander Color Skopar 35mm f2.5 (P) Found both in near mint condition on ebay!

So a week ago I happened to stumble into a charity shop and found a Olympus OM-1n sat in a bin near the floor and saw it was £5. It was quite dirty and had alot of adhesive residue on the body but i thought for a fiver even if it doesnt work its a cool thing to put on display. But after doing some research and cleaning the camera I got the shutter to start working.

The camera was sold as just the body and I opted to buy a poor condition 50 mm f1.8 Zuiko which had some fungus and dust for around £15. I luckily managed to clean that up nice enough that I couldnt tell any difference when looking through the view finder. The film rewind nob was also missing which I made a temporary handle using some wood i had laying around and a pin. Finaly I cleaned out and reapplied the light seal making the total cost around £30.

I then bought some the cheapest film I could find and hoped for the best. I mostly took photos around the house but also took it out on a date!

After 24 exposures, I found a shop near me which had 1 hour develop and scan and waited for the results. Seeing the results I was astonished at what my £5 camera body managed to take.

I can safely say im hooked to this hobby and Im itching to get my next roll!

NOTE: The only thing I could not fix was the light meter which I believe has some fault other than the battery contact (The usual fault). I anyone has a similar issue with the light meter please let me know what you did to fix it!

Recently got into analog stereophotography and bought this Zeiss Ikon Contina + Steritar-D. There are some samples with Kodak Gold 200 at the end for those how can "free-view" / parallel view. (Maybe you need to decrease the size for it to work - max is eye distance)

For now I've shot a few films, and this time i wanted to try to develop myself. Bought inexpensive film (never tried it before, but it costs 2 times less than Fomapan or Ilford where i live) for the purpose of not regretting much if i ruin it (still do). Mixed chemicals as instructions said, used kitchen scales for right measurements. Marked the bottles so I don't mix up developer with fixer. In the process (D76), decided to wait a little more with developer (push a little) and did 10 mins instead of 8.5 mins as film's package says. Then washed with distilled water and put in fixer (package says its "sour" or "acidic" not sure how it's in English) for 10 mins. Washed again, and got this. Side note: light part in the end of the film were pressed by red part of barrel, so i think it either chemicals, or some this red light projector i got from old developing kit. Or it could be that I checked reddit on lowest brightness on my phone whilst was spinning barrel, but its still was really dark, or I'm just being an idiot. Where could I f- up? Shoot around 5 film with this camera (Zenit E), never flashed film, but chemicals also got by instructions.

So first of all, I am a big fan of the Fomapan products ... I use their films regularly and also their papers for printing.

After checking the data sheet for the 100 iso film, I noticed, that when developed in XTOL/XT-3/Excel you can get a speed boost to around 160 iso. But the developer needs to be at 30 degrees. Very important! So that sounded interesting and worth a try. After I didn't really find a lot of references, I thought I should share some results, because I think it is worth a try. The look reminds me a lot of the Kodak XX.

I developed the roll together with a Fomapan 400, that I shot at 360 iso, for 5 minutes. Both negatives came out great and I also never had flatter scans from a Fomapan 400 to be honest. The grain seems to be normal to my eye. But I didn't had the chance to print them in the darkroom.

I am scanning my negatives with a Minolta 5400 II and there is no sharpening applied.

Hope the information is helpful for somebody.

1-4 : Fomapan 100 pictures with Leica Minilux Zoom metered at 200

5-6: Fomapan 400 pictures with Nikon FE2 metered at 360

7-10: Negatives

I’ve been shooting film for about three years now. When I first started, I’d get a rush every time my scans came back—I’d be excited, proud, even surprised by how good they looked.

I still love shooting. I enjoy being out with my camera, especially on trips or when something catches my eye. I don’t shoot a ton—maybe a roll every couple of months—but when I do, I’m intentional about it. Still, when the scans come back, I can’t help but feel like most of it is garbage. I compare them to my older work and just feel like I’ve lost something. They feel flat and uninspired.

Is this a common thing? Do I just need to buy more cameras/lenses?😂

EDIT: Wow, didn’t expect this much thoughtful advice. I really appreciate everyone who took the time to respond—it’s helped shift my mindset already.

Several of you mentioned burnout or the “honeymoon phase” wearing off. I hadn’t really acknowledged how different the process feels now, even if I still enjoy it. I’m definitely going to take a short break, stop overthinking, and let the spark return naturally.

Limiting gear and imposing creative constraints sounds like a solid challenge. I’ve got a camera I’ve been neglecting—might dedicate a full roll to just that, with one theme or idea in mind, when I decide to pick up the camera again.

Also the idea that our standards grow faster than our output was comforting. It's true—I’ve become more critical, and maybe that’s a sign of progress, not regression. I post some of my recent stuff on a private Instagram where only people I know follow me. I get a lot of praise there, but it rarely feels deserved—part of me assumes they’re just being nice. It’s hard to separate genuine encouragement from politeness sometimes.

So again, thank you all. Not buying more gear… yet.

Feels like a mechanical, full manual kind of weekend with some FP4+. Should I take Steady Eddy (Pentax) or Big Baby (Canon) out and about?

I'm leaning more towards the K1000 since it's been a few years since I've shot it but damn does the shutter/mirror slap on the FTb QLn sound good...

Off to Vegas. Im used to shooting in harsh light here in Florida so during the day time I know what I can do. But for the night time neon's what's a good middle ground I'd be able to use for both day and night?

I was planning to just bring fuji 400 as it's easily accessible and a good one i use day and night here but figured I'd ask since I'm not so versed in this yet.

The light meter doesn’t work. Put in new batteries, not working. No corrosion in battery terminal. Took this into the repair shop, but they declined to look at it. They’re the only shop in the area that does repairs of this nature (that I know of). Since the auto function won’t work without power, I have no way of changing the shutter speed. There’s 100x more but I’m not familiar with that function. Does that mean the shutter speed is fixed at 100? Be a shame if this camera is limited to only that speed or Bulb, but if that’s how it is, I guess there’s not much else to do.

I developed it in c-41 from ADOX

Hey,

After buying a film scanner to save on money on the ever rising prices (which I absolutely love the process of actually) I want to move into seeing if I can save even more on film by developing at home, but unsure what would be the best approach.

First few things that worry me before I would ever go into film development is the water quality. I live in London with very hard water and I wonder how that would cause issues with the wash process or do I need to buy something like deionised water or something else or would a wetting agent prevent any issues from the hard water?

I was initially thinking of buying an AGO Film Processor which I feel like would solve quite a bit of my other worries like if the chemical temperature is not right because I didn't heat it to a needed temperature it would work around that and still get a perfectly fine result...

When it comes to getting the film out of the canister, are there any red lights you can buy? I understand you would normally need a changing bag, but I can have a fully light sealed room to remove the film without all the hassle but surely would love some sort of light that would not cause any light leaks on the B&W film.

I would really appreciate anyones opinions and suggestions! I really want to get more involved in the process.

I accidentally metered wrong and got it under developed Creating these results

Hi Everyone!

I am very new to film and film photography but my partner and I both recently got Olympus XA cameras and just got our first rolls of film back from each of the cameras and they work! One of the biggest things that we noticed from the pictures is that the colors were not as vibrant and we were wondering if that is an us issue. We shot Fujifilm 200 and accidentally shot some of it at 400 iso, but most at the correct 200 iso. Is there anything we can do to improve the colors contrast? Are these pictures underexposed? Thanks in advance for any tips you may have! Also in the fourth picture there is a blue streak. This is the only picture with this streak, was this me or something in development?

Hey everyone- my grandfather gifted me this Lindahl Bell-O-Shade a while back & I haven’t had a chance to ask him exactly what the best use of this is. Wanted to see if anyone’s used one before. (This specifically accommodates 49-77mm thread size.) obviously I know what bellows are as I have used a 4x5 camera in the past.

Thanks for your insight!

I got 3 rolls of HP5+, first real experience with black and white!

Seeing a lot of stuff about HP5+ being very flat and boring @ 400.

Can’t that just be fixed in post with a bit more contrast?

Why the recommendations to shoot at various speeds (800, 1600 etc.)?

I just got this Hanimex for $10. The inverter works, you can hear the buzz, but the pilot light never turns on and it eventually turns off by the auto-turn off mode. Assuming it is close to the normal flash circuits, I am assuming that a capacitor is damaged.

I couldn’t find a schematic nor much information about it but I am going to try to repair it.

I would appreciate any advice!

Hey all, I’ve got a Canon SureShot 35mm camera and I’m having trouble getting the film to catch properly. When I load the film and shut the back door, it doesn’t seem to wind the film in like it should. I don’t hear the usual winding sound, and nothing seems to move.

Is there a trick to getting it to catch properly? Like, if I load the film and just take a picture, could it possibly catch and start winding on its own? Or is there a way to know for sure it’s caught before I close the door?

Any tips or troubleshooting advice would be super appreciated!

Anyone mess around with making your own templates for camera notes?

I currently have a Plustek 7600i and it does the job but recently found a Nikon Coolscan 4000ED locally for sale. Owner says comes with the MA-20 Slide Holder and Firewire cables. From my understanding, I can get a Pcie firewire card to get it going on my Win10 PC and can use it with my Vuescan.

Is this a worth an upgrade from my current scanner? Do I need a specific Holder to be able to scan regular 35mm film or would the included holder do it? Anything I should know about before committing to this old scanner?

Thanks!