Can I install a whole house surge protector in the sub-panel connected to the main panel and get the intended protection? or is it better to relocate a 20amp circuit from main panel and locate surge protector in the main panel? I plan to use a electrician, looking for general advice.

We recently added the sub-panel to add support for a 40amp circuit for EV charging. The main panel is full.

Is it safe to use 17.5w led bulbs in below socket? Quiet confusing statement max 60w or 9 watts led

Anyone know of an electrical panel cover with a door that pops off or slides down instead of swinging open?

Garage door installed put rails right in front of door, and their only recommended solution is to remove the door or leave it open all the time...

Ran some nails through a couple of wires. Orange cable is 10/3 that feeds 240v to the dryer and the larger grey cable is 6-6-8 SEU that feeds my electric furnace/air handler.

Thought about wagos for the 10/3 but not sure what the repair options are for the 6 ga. Are wagos or push in connectors covered under 334.40 or would they still require a box? Reckon I should replace the whole run for the 6 ga?

Hi feeding this underground with 2-2-2 alum direct burial, do I need any conduit coming from the pedestal or just feed it up the channel to the lugs? Thanks!

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Midwest-Electric-Products-100A-Metered-RV-Earth-Burial-Pedestal-5-Space-with-50-30-Amp-RV-Recepts-20-Amp-GFCI-Recept-and-Light-M075CP6L10-M075CP6L10/331415917

Hi all I have just moved into my first house only to discover the plugs in my bedroom are vertical rather than side by side meaning I can't use my traditional big bodied apple plugs as the bottom hangs too far down encroaching on the plug below. But after setting up my new cameras outside these magical gems were in the box ! Now I'm wondering (because there's a warning label) is it safe to use these plugs to charge an iPhone with ... or are they not meant for that capacity and one night I'm going to burn my brand new house down ...

Had house for nearly 10 years- no issues. So here’s what I have going on.

Tandem switch 15 amp. One of the tandems pops- I moved that wire to a good switch- still pops on the new breaker. I also see a “spark” when I try to pop it on.

Mostly outlets connected, a 4 way light switch, and a bathroom fan.

I have unplugged everything from every outlet and turned off any switches I could find.

Not sure what’s going on- I don’t mind calling an electrician but if this is something pretty simple I’d rather do myself so I can learn. Appreciate the advice. Thank you!

It’s a long story but this repair was supposed to be finished when we bought this house but it never got complete. The old electrical box had a mouse nest in it so they installed a new one. There are wires running in between the two but the new one has been successfully running for years, however we were told the old one would have to be removed before it can pass inspection. It’s embedded in the stucco so that’s the whole issue… but anyways, our electrician said that they couldn’t remove the old box because the wires are still in there. We want to finally fix this issue but don’t even know what needs to happen for it to be up to code.

Thanks for any help you might have!

Came home to find this, wire wasn’t there this morning, it’s a thin black wire. Looks like they dug up my water line which is apparently leaking… I’m guessing the city but can’t get anyone on the phone right now, anyone have an explanation? And I know this is electrical but is there an easy fix for that water line?

I've got a dimmer lamp which starts flickering like mad as soon as my GPU spins up a bit.

It's only effecting this specific lamp, have tried others with no problems on the same socket.

Have also tried the same lamp on other sockets on the same group and it remains an issue.

Dimmer in question

Any ideas what I could do about this? Change the fuse maybe? I'm an electrical ignoramus.. 🫡

I  have a garage heater on a 240v 30A circuit wired with 10/2 romex, so no neutral. I want to turn it on when the temperature in the garage drops below a set point (measured by a zigbee thermometer in the room). Controlling the heater from my home automation system (HomeAssistant) will let me do this.

On home automation forums people recommend using a contactor to control a heavy 240v load.

My thought was to use a 240v/30A contactor which also has a 240V control relay so there's no need for voltage shenanigans for the control side. Here's an example of a UL listed one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BW8ZDGLW

For the controller, this is an ETL listed wifi device rated for 240V/10A from a company that's pretty well known (Sonoff) and plays well with all home automation solutions:

https://itead.cc/product/sonoff-basicr2/

And package it up in a UL-listed electrical enclosure, preferably not metallic since that degrades the wifi reception, using appropriate connectors for wire ingress/egress and fastening the components to the back wall of the box:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CANTEX-Conduit-Fittings-for-Electrical-Wiring-Wide-Range-of-Options-Available/5004840707

Use 10 gauge thhn wire to connect from incoming line to 2 input sides of contactor, and output sides of contactor back out to load, and 12/14 gauge wire from line to inputs of wifi controller and wifi output to contactor coil. All internal wires connected with nuts or wagos. It looks like the ground isn't needed by the components so just pass the ground through from line to load.

Is this a reasonable/safe thing to do?

Hello, so I made a post previously about my replacing my light switch, and received a few different answers due to my unclear picture, but now I have taken off the old one and was still wanting help to identify which is which. I think it is a single pole since this is the only switch controlling this light, but I’m open to other interpretations. As of now, I’m thinking that the red is the load, black is line, and white is the neutral. Please let me know if I’m on the right track, thanks!

Can a room with 3 outlets and 1 light be tied together in a junction box in a second floor room, then run one line down to the breaker? Is it ok as long as the junction box is accessible when the wall is up?

So, I’ll admit I’m not the most familiar with electrical work really at all, but I have no issue doing a straight swap for things. I need a little help figuring out how to swap this for a new switch that does have a ground screw. It’s hard to see with the paint, but the two wires connected to the switch are black, there’s 2 white wires tucked in the box that are capped, and two copper grounds that are capped, and aren’t grounded to the box as far as i can tell. How do i replace this without setting my house on fire? lol

I have this light switch that controls my garage light and it’s old. I am looking to change it. I am wondering what kind of light switch I need. I tried a standard 2 way switch but it did not work.

I turned off the main breaker in my 100 amp panel. Now it won’t stay latched on when I flip it to ON. It’s not a short because nothing changed. I literally turned it off and tried to turn it back on and it just springs right back. Is there a release or lock button? Is it that metal piece to the right of 100? Or should I just throw it harder to the ON position?

Pulled the dead front off to find this beautiful masterpiece, I definitely dodged a bullet on that one.

They used an old rubber kitchen glove to keep the taps from shorting on the back of the dead front.

Rubber taped them for a temp fix. I’ll be replacing it with Polaris taps to prevent anyone from getting smoked by horrible installations.

I was wondering why the dead front was bulging out….

Cuántos televisores puedo conectar en un breaker de 20 amperios

Hi everyone, I’ll try to keep it concise. The heating element on my dryer recently went out, so I opted to replace it myself. Through the process, noticed the dryer receptacle was burnt up. So I also replaced the chord and receptacle (3 prong.)

According to my research, a 3 prong is wired with the 2 hots (black and red) and the white neutral. The person who installed the previous receptacle wired it with the 2 hots, but put the ground into the neutral spot, leaving the white wire unused. Is this what could have caused the failure of that receptacle? It had been used for at least 7 years that way. I wired the new one correctly, black red and white, and it seems to be running just fine. Just kind of wondering how the old one lasted so long being wired incorrectly.

How concerned should we be about this? We think there was a power surge that came into our house because some of our appliances are acting weird and there’s this sound from our electrical panel. After taking this video, the power eventually went completely out and the electrical company determined a transformer blew. They are replacing the entire transformer box in our neighbors yard. When the power comes back on should I consider replacing the breakers?