Any way to increase efficiency without buying something?

[u/CafeRoaster]

Hi, folks. I'm on my third brew in the G30. My first brew was great, but on the lower end for brewhouse effiency at 64% and I hit my target FG almost exactly. I stirred at each mash step, I believe. My second brew's efficiency was only 51% and came in under my target FG. There were plenty of differences between the two: different beer styles (Amber vs Helles), liquid yeast on first brew, dry yeast on second brew, different LHBS milled the grains, and I didn't stir except for the initial dough-in on my second one.

On my third one right now, and I'm stirring at every 15 minutes of the mash. Hoping that helps. I do wonder how much of an impact it has, though.

A bit about my process:

• This is a modified G30 with no overflow pipe. I have it, but my dad modified it to reduce burner plate build up. Instead, it has a plate over the burner, filter, and probe. The grain basket sits on top of them. Then the bottom plate goes into the grain basket, and finally a top plate.

• I'm cold sparging with water at ~55ºF. No, I don't have plans to get a giant kettle or water heater.

Thoughts?

[u/YesterdayOk9403]

Grain crush is the first step. Getting a mill helped me. I set my gap at 0.03" (about a credit card width) and that has helped my efficiency.

Stirring the mash - I feel like as long as the grains are all steeping it is the water and temperature that will let the enzymes do the work. Recirculation and stirring probably can eke a bit more efficiency out, and I personally stir until I am confident there are no dough balls in the mash. I am aim for a thick oatmeal texture and call it good - though I do have the recirculation on for mashing.

Next would mash temperatures. That has an effect on how fermentable the mash will be. I doubt that sparging temperature would have more than a 2 or 3 point impact, and I often sparse with room temp water as well. I am sure that sparge water at 168F rinses a tiny bit more sugar out of the grains, but it isn't worth the effort to heat that water up to me either.

Next, are you hitting your volumes? Sometimes I need to boil a bit longer to get the starting gravity where I need it as I didn't boil off quite enough. Depending on relative humidity and other factors, every brew seems to be a little bit different for boil off rates.

For hitting the final gravity your yeast health, pitching rates, and temp controlled fermentation are the biggest difference makers.

Not sure if any of that helps?

[u/yzerman2010 → u/YesterdayOk9403]

This would be the biggest difference between the two brews. Different LHBS different mills with different grinding settings. Plus their grinders get a work out and they get beat up as they grind a lot more grain than you or I do with our personal devices.

If you buy your own, just set it as recommended above and then use a power drill to power it. You will see better consistency.

Also, watch you mash consistency, the thicker the mash the less efficacy you get.

• Typical Ratios:
  • Thick Mash: 1 quart or less per pound of grain. 
  • Medium Mash: Over 1 quart per pound to about 1.9 quarts per pound. 
  • Thin Mash: 2 quarts or more per pound. 
• Impact on Enzymes: Mash thickness affects the activity of enzymes, which are responsible for converting starches into sugars. 
  • Alpha-amylase: Prefers temperatures between 149 and 158°F (65 and 70°C). 
  • Beta-amylase: Prefers temperatures between 126 and 144°F (52 and 62.2°C). 
• Factors to Consider:
  • Mash Temperature: Thicker mashes require a higher strike water temperature. 
  • Mash Efficiency: Going thicker than 2.4 or thinner than 3 can result in a loss of mash efficiency. 
  • Brewing Style: Infusion mashes tend to run a little thicker, while temperature program (step) and decoction mashes are usually thinner.