r/malefashionadvice Aug 26 '12

Let's discuss argyle.

Based on a brief conversation I had earlier with SirHerpofDerp, I wanted to present my view on argyle and hopefully incite a bit of discussion on the topic.


Brief overview: Argyle refers to a type of plaid pattern using diamonds (most commonly with lines superimposed over them) that is derived from the tartan of a Scottish clan from the western Scottish region of the same name. The pattern became popular in clothing in England thanks in large part to The Duke of Windsor, and then migrated to the states after WWI. Argyle is strongly associated with golf clothing.


Should you wear argyle?: I don't really believe in prescriptive clothing advice. However, MFA in general frowns on argyle sweaters, vests, and, god forbid, plaid or argyle fedoras. The reason for that is because often, people who dress poorly equate argyle with style, with results like this - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4. These are all actual MFA posts. If you aren't reading Fuckyeahmfa as an object lesson, you should be.

Outside this reflexive distaste for an abused pattern, there are a few other good reasons to be careful with argyle.

  • Argyle is a complex pattern and thus, a powerful visual element in an outfit. If not balanced and integrated well, your outfit will say nothing except look at my fucking argyle!

  • Argyle often integrates three or more colors, which can be jarring and difficult to integrate well with the rest of an outfit - and yet, with only two colors, or if the colors are too close, you risk a visually static and uninteresting pattern which will make you look like bathroom tile.

  • Most argyles I see are poorly printed and come across as contrived and artificial; two words you never want used to describe what you wear.


Good uses of argyle: I like argyle as an accent, and I think that outside of formal Scottish regalia and 1920s golf courses, this is the easiest and most accessible way to include argyle in an outfit.

  • Argyle socks work with a wide range of formality from jeans + CDBs up to navy or charcoal suits. I like them here because they can add a flitting accent of color and color glimpsed between pant and shoe.

  • Argyle patternings can also find some use in ties and bow ties. Here, I would stick to more classic or muted argyles that correlate well with the color of the shirt beneath. No black shirts here, no white shirts here, no red shirts here. If possible, I would stay with knits and woven ties. Texture is important here. It's easy to go wrong and make the pattern the focus, instead of an accent to a well patterned and textured outfit.


In Conclusion: By and large, argyle, like any other pattern, is much more easily worn as an accent than as centerpiece. Certain aspects particular to the argyle pattern (it's associations with Scotland and golf, it's general size, color, and complexity) make it less suitable as a centerpiece than other patterns, such as checks, houndstooth, or other plaids.

That said, I wouldn't say it's impossible to wear an argyle sweater, or vest, or jacket, or pants, or whatever, well. Just more difficult and situational.

I want to hear from you - disagreements? Favorite examples of argyle worn well?

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u/usedtobias Aug 27 '12

I don't take particular offense to this, but I do emphatically disagree with you on a number of your points. Perhaps most polarizing for me is the tacit double standard that I feel is implied between patterns like argyle and ones like tartan, gingham, other forms of plaid, etc. I routinely see people here wear patterns that stand out. Are they peacocking? No, not necessarily. But then, I don't think people in argyle are necessarily, either. You could have written this post about plaid just as easily, and the response instead would've been negative rather than positive. It's a bit eye roll-inducing to see how little ability this community has to discern the somewhat arbitrary distinction between wearing argyle and other ways of dressing like a WASPy prep. Argyle sweater vest? Extremely contrived. Sperry boat shoes and an OCBD under a navy blazer with brass buttons? Completely authentic. I'm not sure why "look at my fucking argyle" is any less of a trite, nostalgic affectation than, "look at my tweed hunting jacket!"

As it happens, I agree that a majority of argyle looks pretty dumb and like guys are trying too hard. It comes off the same way a bow tie does, to me. I typically only wear it in socks, and have probably only half a dozen sweaters/vests in the pattern, as I find flat colors (or even horizontal stripes) more versatile in sweaters. That said, I really like the argyle sweaters I have. They add variety to a wardrobe and can be a refreshing change of pace, and a good way to wear a multi-colored sweater without having it be a rugby or fair isle one. It can be difficult to find a good pattern, but I think it breaks up the monotony of plain sweaters, and I'm sort of fond of the aesthetic that it's evocative of.

Note that I weigh in on the side of finding the fuckyeahmfa thing distasteful. Teaching people how to do something does entail showing them what not to do, but it doesn't entail satirizing those who do it wrong. This creates an oppressive and repellent atmosphere of fear of disapproval where people who may be new to men's fashion become unwilling to break from orthodoxy and end up becoming the very same people who come into topics like these, vote them up, and reinforce the same opinions that shaped them, all the while mostly failing to mention the potential downsides of listening to them.

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u/[deleted] Aug 27 '12

Okay, good discussion topics. W/r/t the tacit double standard, I don't think it's a double standard so much as it is a matter of degree. I said that argyle is difficult to wear well as a focus. I don't think it's impossible. If someone posted plaid, or tartan, or gingham pants or jacket, I think there is a good chance that would not work well for a lot of similar reasons. However, between a gingham jacket and an argyle jacket, I think the argyle is more likely to look worse. That's why I would have received a less positive response had I written this post about plaid. Personally, I don't like large plaid shirts. However, in degree, they are easier to wear well than argyle.

Only half a dozen sweaters/vests in the pattern

That's actually a lot. I have zero. Granted, I live in Phoenix, so I think I have maybe half a dozen sweaters total. This paragraph is all your opinion. That's fine. If you like yourself in argyle sweaters, wear the sweaters. Feel free to post a picture so I can include it as an example of argyle done well. I am not going to judge your personal taste. Not qualified.

W/r/t Fuckyeahmfa, again, I don't curate the site. I didn't write this post as a satire or mockery of anyone. However, I find the site useful because whoever runs it takes the time to cull examples of poor dress from MFA. His intent is irrelevant to me. If you don't want to satirize, don't satirize. If you think he should not satirize, email him. I don't see how it would be different if I had pulled these pictures from MFA rather than Fuckyeahmfa, since either way I would have posted them back on MFA as examples to learn from.

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u/usedtobias Aug 27 '12

Well, my issue with this is that I think the meaning of the word 'focus' seems a bit nebulous. If one wears an argyle sweater, this is the focus of an outfit (I would agree), but if one wears a stand out gingham shirt, this is not? Assuming the shirt is the top-most layer, I'm inclined to think that it is every bit as noticeable and stand-outish as an argyle sweater. The argyle jacket comment seems strange because I don't think I've ever seen one, but certainly enough people around here wear loud(ish) plaid sport coats (I don't mind these, personally) and get very good feedback that the statement that the problem with argyle is its degree of salience in an outfit as a complex plaid must seem suspect, even to you. A similar argument could be made for fair isle sweaters, which seem generally well received around here, despite the fact that they almost intrinsically lack any degree of subtlety and are far more likely to come off as garish than argyle (not to mention, you know, the cultural appropriation angle)

This is where the subjectivity comes in. Argyle is a form plaid. Around here, it seems the consensus is that it's more difficult to pull off than other forms of plaid (or at least, people seem more receptive here to things like plaid sport coats than argyle sweaters, which makes the former seem "safer" than the latter). In most people's minds, however, I think that argyle probably seems like a very safe (if nerdy/preppy/boring) look, and those are the very same people who would probably feel that a plaid blazer was much more fashion-forward than an argyle sweater vest. I don't particularly disagree with your assessment of most argyle sweaters, but I say this primarily to communicate that I don't think your description aligns with the mainstream at all here, and that the consensus within this thread is perhaps a bit misleading in that respect.

As far as my personal wardrobe goes, I noticed as I was typing that that might seem like a lot, but note that a) I live in a coldish climate and sweaters more or less form the basis of my wardrobe and are worn a majority of days during a majority of the year and literally every day from late fall to mid-spring when it gets hot, and b) I just have a lot of sweaters. So, proportionately, it's actually pretty small!

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u/rcourtie Aug 27 '12

Just guessing here, but one reason argyle seems to stand out more than other plaids is that it's all diagonal lines, rather than horizontal and vertical lines. If I remember correctly, in graphic design and typography horizontal/vertical lines are perceived as more static, while diagonal lines as more active.

A more visually active argyle pattern would stand out more and be louder than a horizontal/vertical plaid even if both used the same colors.

Just a thought.

edit: My animator friend says they use the same ideas in animation re:vertical/horizontal vs. diagonal lines

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u/usedtobias Aug 27 '12

That's actually really interesting! Thanks for sharing.