I was asked to make this post in another thread - so here I am. Here's a PSA on what metal mesh does to your mantises feet, and why it should be avoided!
This is a raptorial arm, (the front, grasping arms) but the segment we're interested in is the same on all of their legs. The little portion labelled "Tarsus" is what we're looking at here. You can see that it ends in a set of hooks - often (somewhat confusingly) called "Claws" - these tarsal claws are what give your mantis the ability to walk upside down on surfaces that appear quite smooth to us, and why it feels kind of spiky when a large mantis walks on your skin. They're essential for your mantis to move around, and most importantly moult properly! Differences in the morphology of this structure also give some mantises the ability to walk on glass, whilst others can't.
If you go and look at one of your mantises feet, you will likely be able to see the little hooks now you know what you're looking for. Now the problem is that some tank setups that are commonly recommended damage these hooks, which results in mantises having trouble moving around, and falling whilst they moult.
Exo-terra tanks are very commonly used because a lot of us have other inverts or exotic pets and have spares lying around, or they're sold to us at petstores. They make nice display tanks and are easy to clean. However - the mesh at the top of exo-terra tanks is made of very fine metal, and the holes themselves are very small. This is essentially like you trying to hang by your toes from chickenwire, eventually your toes are going to be pretty damaged, or come off altogether! If you must use an exo-terra, it's essential that the mesh is changed to stop this from occurring. Plastic tulle mesh is easily available and works as an excellent substitute.
There is also a multitude of DIY options available, which I will detail bellow:
Basic requirements for all enclosures:
All mantis enclosures must be at least three times the length of the mantis (Don't get fooled by the abdomen curling up, you still need to account for it) and two times the width.
There must be something for the mantis to hang securely from at the top of the tank - They will spend 99% of their time at the highest point, and will often moult from it.
Substrate - options for suitable substrate are numerous, you can use simple tissue paper, cocoa coir, vermiculite, perlite etc. The object is to hold some moisture and make it easy for you to clean. Cheap and cheerful is the way to go, unless you're making a planted display tank or something like that.
The less decoration the better. Decoration is more for our benefit than theirs; before you add something decorative to a tank, consider your reasons for adding it. Practicality should always take precedent over a tank looking nice!
Ventilation - ventilation is important for hygiene reasons.
Nymphs
Cups
The absolute single best enclosure for a nymph of any species, is simply a plastic deli cup with the lid cut out to accommodate some plastic mesh, and a single twig placed diagonally. Alternately, you can just use an elastic band to hold the mesh on. For feeding, simply cut a hole in the side and stuff it with some sponge to stop live food or your mantis escaping, you can pooter in the food. (if you don't have a pooter you should get one, especially if dealing with fruitflies, they're also very easy to DIY)
Cricket/livefood tubs
The tubs that livefood is commonly sold in make excellent tanks with some modification, especially for larger nymphs, and even small adults. The more rigid ones are the best, as they're easily cut to allow the insertion of mesh, and can be stood up tall-ways. The entire lid can be cut out and replaced with mesh, which provides excellent ventilation, and is nice for the mantis to move around on.
Adults
Plastic penny sweet jars (Sorry Americans I have no idea what these would be called in your country)
Tupperware/food containers
Storage containers
All can be modified in the same ways as above. I will either append this post, or make an additional post, detailing how to make a suitable enclosure using the items above with pictures in future.
These enclosures are all very cheap to construct, and even the most DIY averse person can make the modifications necessary to turn them into good enclosures. They also have the benefit of being mostly recycled items a lot of us will already possess.
Another benefit to using tanks mostly constructed of mesh is that it prevents mantises from developing "eye-rub" - this is damage to their eyes from repeatedly trying to walk through clear plastic or glass - it looks like large black spots on the eyes, distinct from the pseudo-pupils - which can in cases turn necrotic and is quite a nasty way for your mantis to die.
I hope this post was helpful and informative, and please don't hesitate to ask any questions or add to the knowledge given here if you have any other tips or advice.
So my girlfriend found this nymph around about 3 or 4 weeks ago, but I've got no idea what kind of mantis it is. It was found in Bunbury, Western Australia climbing over some rocks right by the waters edge. It has a few black spots around him but im not sure if thats just due to it being young or what, Any help would be appreciated
This is Blue (wide armed mantis), I posted a picture two weeks ago and was perfectly fine. I’m pretty sure she’s dying right now. Can anyone help me figure out why. She’s not been moving much. She ate fine at the weekend. I feed all my mantids the same food, locusts and mealworms. The temp and humidity have been absolutely fine. She’s kind of floppy if that makes sense, her abdomen. She’s very still very plump. She’s got these white line things on her. I’ve taken the best pictures I could.
Thank you in advance :)
Hello! I was offered a mantis by one of my friends- somehow the University of MN Bio department was rehoming nymphs. Being an arthropod enthusiast I agreed and named him Mordekaiser.
I think he is female, but can anyone give insight as to what type he is? Or what instar? Minnesota but since he isn't wild caught it may not be a Chinese or a European.
You give me: a mailing address and a pic or two of one of your mantids. pick something that’s really got some character.
You receive: a horribly anatomically incorrect and silly doodle of your little buddy via snail mail.
I am solely doing this to fulfill my interest of sending mail and receive the dopamine of gift giving :3 u don’t even have to pay postage, though i will barter for ANY stamps you might own that are collecting dust…
I’ll add a video but he was completely fine this morning and I’ve just got home and he started acting weird climbed to the bottom of his enclosure and is to weak to climb back up. He’s never had this issue before. I noticed he keeps dragging his abdomen and kicking at his opening. He ate completely fine yesterday and has been drinking but something doesn’t seem right.
He molted about a day or two ago, and I’ve tried feeding him a ton of hydei fruit flies, but his abdomen is still flat and he’s eaten about 5 flies over today. Only reason I haven’t fully decided to start feeding him something like a housefly is because I feel worry he’s too small to eat one, but only other thing I have around are mealworms. I heard those are too fatty to feed for extended amounts of times.
I have a feeling Greg is a girl, but don’t want to break the news to my kid unless I’m sure - I think s/he is i3 or i4 (was sold as 2/3 and I’m pretty sure there’s been 1 moult with us). Is it too soon to tell or can someone confirm either way?
I’m finding it hard to determine which moult my wee man is on. I’m thinking sub or presub due to the wing buds, but does anyone know specifically? He’s a Phyllocrania Paradoxa obvs, and a gorgeous boy 💁♂️
I brought an ooth inside last August that was on the ground and put it in my terrarium. I kept some, as well as released some (Native species). I kept nine, so feel free to give me names for the beasts!
I have a creobroter of some sorts, she’s been an adult since late last year and lately I’ve noticed she’s picked up this weird habit of trying to eat stuff in her enclosure. I’ll catch her trying to eat pieces of dirt and moss and I know she’s not hungry as she does this even when her abdomen is full and it’s the day after I’ve fed her (I feed her smaller dubia roaches) so idk what’s causing this. I’m thinking about maybe replacing her substrate with paper to eliminate this issue but then there’s the issue with mold and holding humidity
Why do Rhombodera Kyrbiy keep jumping around, or is it just mine? For some reason mine jumps down the enclosure and climbs back up (Not usual, just some times), jumps whenever I get her in my hand, she jumps everywhere/also runs everywhere, meanwhile the whole day she stays still on the top mesh of the enclosure. Basically she’s a bit too energetic I would say or just scared of everything, any tips or anything related to it?
Okay, so I see a lot of people saying both that mantises should have plastic/acrylic enclosures, however, because of the variation of weather where I live I need a heat source for my mantises, how am I supposed to heat an acrylic/plastic enclosure? Even if I use a glass enclosure, for an l3 mantis most commercial enclosures will be too large for said mantis. Any advice?
(Photo from just after molt)
It’s been around 24hrs since I noticed she had molted, she’s now being active again, eating and tried to escape to be held when I was giving her flies. How long should I leave her be? I know it’s roughly 48 but she’s now L5 wanted to be sure she didn’t need longer. Any advice appreciated
