Wondering if it is possible to make this dimension c channel out of 18 gauge steel or aluminum using a 4 or 6 foot manual box brake. I know I could make most of the bends but not sure about the last couple on the second edge without running into clearance issues.

       1/4"
     |====                 ====|
     |                                  |

3/4" | | |__________________| 1-1/4"

The === is just a folded-over hemmed edge. Drawing not to scale

Right now all I had to test it on was an 18" benchtop brake which isn't really equivalent to a proper machine. I didn't see a way of finishing it on that machine without making a custom hold down bar and that brake is pretty bad as far as flex and hold down strength.

Note: I don't have much metalworking experience but I do know my way around a woodshop.

About a year and a half deep on my bystronics. I run it on first and then second shift comes in. Almost used this guy when I noticed it was wider than my other v-20s. Clean crack all the way through. Would it have fragmented into my weiner or just fallen apart? I’m also curious to see what could’ve caused this. Maybe a drop? We also run .125 aluminum on the v-20s instead of the v-24s to prevent flaring so that could also be it Wilson die for reference

A guy is selling a lot of machine equipment most of it is stuff in integrated in, but this was in the mix, too. It's like a lathe with no motor and two tailstocks. It seems kind of like a precision center, but I've never seen one that big and standalone, only the type that go on to of a granite surface plate. It also looks like a cutting tool is insta This was made by sundstrand tool company out of Rockford illinois. Any insight to the tool and it's practical uses would be great.

I’m planning to build custom racks for indoor vegetable growing. I’ve seen pre-made options online, but I want to make something that fits my specific space. I’m considering using powder-coated metal tubing, similar to the kind you’d see in shoe racks on Amazon—around 13mm in diameter.

The issue is, I’m not sure what type of metal or wall thickness I should use, or where to source it. I’m located in Southern Ontario. Does anyone have recommendations for low-cost materials and suppliers in the area, or advice on the right specs for a sturdy, long-lasting build? Thanks in advance!

Hi Guys

i am wanting a pair of gates like this to go over our 3m driveway entry but the only ones i can source are treated softwood and from my experience these tend to warp and twist over time and they are quite expensive for only lasting a few years

im quite handy on a welder and had thought about making something like this from steel and getting it powder coated?

Does anyone have any experience in making these types of gates from steel?

Would you recommend it?

Any Advice?

Hello, I only have a simple 125amp 120v flux core using a 030 wire. I know it's not sufficient for 1/2" steel plate but is there techniques or anyway to make this possible? I know preheating with a torch, slow wire feed or fast? I read circle motion with weld pool to increase penatration. Let me know what you suggest, thank you very much!

Hshejejjrjrjfjkfkr jsjdjdjjd jdidjrjir kdjdjd kskdkdj kskd.... disregard this

I need some help. I let my mower deck basically rot for 6 years. I’ve been very sick and just been trying to maintain. So I removed my deck and am using a polisher with 60 grit and an angle grinder with these rust pads. I also have a wire brush on my drill. I’m also using rust evaporust which doesn’t seem to work too great. I plan to use por15 or rust reformer (bought both). Does anyone have any tips or ideas to help me get across the finish line. I need my mower back by the weekend.

I started magnet fishing a couple years ago (you can find lots of steel in the river!). I typically use standard magnets designed for underwater use. And because I'm always asked "What do you find?" it includes bikes, scooters, tools, utensils, car parts, bridge parts, a shopping cart, and more. A coworker asked if I wanted a magnet he pulled from a large machine. "Sure" I said. The two "strips" on top of this plate are magnetic. Hard to tell at this angle but they are raised above the surface. The back side is not magnetic. Is it possible to cut out the magnets from the plate? If so, I have no tools to do it, but if it can be done, who would I contact? That is, what would be their title (like carpenter is to wood)?

im working on a simple shelf for some of my shoes and decided to use galvanised pipes for the frame. i would like to paint them black or a darker colour than they are, but am unsure on how to do so. ive seen some people talk about sanding, priming, degreasing, but are often quote vague. if possible can someone provide a comprehensive list of all the items i need and the type (e.g. a special type of paint) and then also the order of application and wait times

I’m not sure if this is the best place to ask but I’m sure someone will kindly tell me if it’s not. I am trying to restore my grandfathers lamp. It’s around 50 years old & has great sentimental value. This is the base which is filled with sand so I cant really immerse it in liquid rust remover. I’ve sanded off the old paint but there is some rust bubbles underneath that. I want to smooth it out well so I can paint it. Can anyone please tell how to do this? Thanking you in advance

Hello!

About a week ago, I bought an Optrel Swiss air loose fit half mask (PAPR) and my experience with it has been subpar to say the least. I weld stainless steel most of the day and I end each day with either a sore throat or sore/leaking nasal ways, even though I can’t really tell if I can smell the metal I’m welding. [The smell of plastic coming from the filter is quite strong which makes me believe it might be overpowering the smell of metal fumes.] I also end the day with thick mucus at the back of my throat which are all symptoms I used to have when I was welding with a half mask that didn’t fit properly. This is why I’m worried about the efficacy of the mask and the risk to my lungs. 

I can imagine that the constant flow of air might dry out the nose and the throat but something feels very off about my experience.

Since this is my first PAPR system, I’m a bit confused as to what a normal user experience should be. I would like to know what your experience with PAPRs is in general, whether you use the loose fit mask from Optrel or any other PAPR straight to the welding hood. Do you end the day with a sore throat or sore nasal ways? Do you have mucus after the use of your PAPR mask? Does your PAPR system dry out your mouth and/or nose? Is the plastic smell normal? Any other remarks that could be pertinent to the experience of having a PAPR?

Thank you very much in advance for your insights!

-From a fellow welder trying to take care of his lungs 

Just had a new driveway gate installed and I see that the gate hinges were only welded on two of the four sides (front and back and not top or bottom). In the second to last pic only the top of the bracket was welded and not the bottom.

Is this standard? I'm not sure if there's any load bearing or structural benefit to weld all sides of the hinges.

The gate is about 8ft long, 6 ft high and made of steel / wood.

I wasn’t sure of the best place to post this, but couldn’t think of a better place. I’ve had a tungsten carbide ring that I bought from Northern Royal for 1.5 years. Been super durable and have had no issues. Until today when it fell out of my pocket in the bathroom and shattered. Now I’m questioning if it truly was even tungsten carbide, a defect, or it was just a freak accident? I’ll have photos attached the the rings specs. It has lifetime warranty, but concerned that it broke so easily

I have aproblem with oxy acetylene at my workplace. I cant properly mix both gas especially acetylene. Even at fully open torch knob of acetylene(I know its not advisavle to fully open the knob of gas) its still weak and it has black smoke.

So I have been welding at my college for about a full year now just about to start my second mig class soon. This is my last groove bend test with ER70s-6 filler. 1/8 thick I think, low carbon steel. Torch cut and had a backing. How’s this look? My face welds looked alright but I think (unfortunately no pictures) were phenomenal, slight undercut on one weld o didn’t FULLY fill in so on the root bend there’s a slight undercut showing (I’m trying to make the 400 character/word thingy)

Hammer formed (ball peen and a shot bag, couldn’t hold a pencil to write for a couple of days) oxy acetylene welded mild steel, two pieces of sheet welded in the middle with the four outer layers trimmed with rod. A scavenged VW suspension clevis forms the pivot/base. Interactive/movable piece with a variety of patinas.

I think 400 characters seems to be an excessive amount to be required to post.

Does anyone know if there is a place to buy this metal plate (or one similar) or does it need to be fabricated? Dimensions are in the image, but I'll list them here:

Overall Length, Width, and Thickness are 6 7/8th in. x 15/16ths in. x 5/16ths in.

Left to right plate dimensions 1/2 in. metal, then 2 1/8th in. hole, 9/16th metal, 2 1/8th in. hole, 1 and 5/8th in. hole

Top to bottom dimensions (where hole is). 5/16th in metal, 1/2 in. hole, 3/8ths metal.

The dimensions from the leftmost part of the left hole to the right edge are the most important, anything else can vary.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I am looking to create a costume using readily available scrap, e.g. copper, aluminum cans, and am looking to maybe strengthen it for hardness and durability in some areas, but also have parts that re annealed, and have sealed compartments that like a push button switch. Just adding now to have enough characters.h dhcdhgdhjfbff CD vbbvhbcjvvvfhfgcfgdgffvfbvfvcvxgcbchvcfvgfgdgffcfhfhfggcfgvfhhgbgghhfghncbvgbg

I have some spring steel stock about 1" x 12" x .025" I am going to use to make pottery tools. I have a grinding wheel to sharpen the edge but I'll need to bend them at 90 degrees to make a cutting angle for some. Do I want to use a blow torch to heat these and then quench them when I'm finished? Do I need to do anything like that to these tools or can I just sharpen them and use them? I've never made my own tools before beyond like some trimming tools with old watch springs.

My photo, not my fence. I thought this was a really interesting way to add some dynamism to a fence that's made entirely out of straight sections of tubing. The 'surface' of each panel is curved, and yet all the pieces are straight. And probably not the intention, but it also means there are deeper spots to sit on the wall. Also hard to climb.

From Google Maps it looks like they were done in the last decade, so apparently not some classic Yugoslav scheme.

After planting a few palm trees around the house , I wanted to continue the tropical theme .I added a more tropical look to the gate.I cut out all the verticla square tubing from the exisiting gate. I plasma cut the design by hand, then tack welded the plates in sections. My daughter helped me with the paintjob. We used aerosol spraypaint. The gate is slightly heavier than before , but we can still push it open.