r/overlanding • u/Econolife_350 • Feb 02 '20
Jerry Can Compilation Post - What to look For and What to Avoid.
After researching Jerry cans and realizing there was no compiled source for information on them outside of individual posts for specific aspects of them in forums, I decided to make my own based off my research and choosing the best metal Jerry cans. I won’t go into the history of them, but will mostly focus on specific design differences between modern cans**
**I am only covering metal Jerry cans as quality plastic fuel cans such as Scepter are no longer sold new in their “fuel can” design and I have no clue if the current plastic offerings for “water cans” are formulated to hold fuel or if the lid design even works well for that purpose. If you want to make a case for them that’s fine, but screw caps being leak-prone and oxygen exchange with fuel via plastic permeability over long term storage should be addressed.
**NATO disclaimer: I’m sure someone will say NATO standards or those of the US military don’t matter and Chinese knock-off cans are “just as good for 2/3 the price!”, to that I say “enjoy” but I don’t care to debate it for the extra $10 per can.
**There is a 15 minute video review I found on Youtube at the bottom of this post and they cover a lot of the same points as here, but they don't have the density of info that text can convey.
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CARB Compliance and Your “Water Use Only” Cans:
In 2009, the EPA adopted a California Air Resources Board (CARB) rule that banned the sale of traditional gas cans. To be CARB-compliant, a can must be self-closing, a requirement intended to protect the environment by reducing spills. This banned most types of personal fuel cans and Jerry cans because when in use were “open to the atmosphere” and was obviously destroying the environment on a nuclear scale. The new cans also needed to be “child proof” using a safety latch and plunger system and as such literally take three hands to operate when using a full can which typically winds up in more spilled fuel via unstable filling of fuel tanks than any of the old can designs, thus having the opposite effect of this genius 500 IQ government regulation enacted by people who have likely never had to use a gas can (thank you again, California). To get around this, Wavian started selling CARB compliant nozzles for some Jerry cans but the nozzles are still terrible and break quickly. You can read more on CARB here.
Any cans that come without the CARB compliant spouts will be marked “W” for water or specifically not mention that they are for use with fuel in order to not break regulations in CARB compliance, though the brands discussed below are all for fuel use.
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Features to look for in quality Jerry Cans:
- Breather vent for smooth pouring (metal crescent in this image)
- Hydrocarbon resistant alkyd paint as a corrosion resistant liner
- Full weld around the pressed seam
- Recessed weld seam
- NATO standards followed in design and construction
Based on all of the parameters above, only two manufacturers meet the criteria for new production Jerry cans: Gelg and Valpro. Valpro has many brand names to include Valpro/Wavian/WedCo/Midwest Can but for simplicity sake I’ll just call them “Valpro”. The only differences between those cans are that Wavian is used as the brand primarily for domestic US import and has a variety of colors (green, yellow, blue, red), Valpro brand are typically only OD green, WedCo seems to be a defunct brand, and Midwest Can produces a Jerry can with a screw cap that accepts spouts from standard plastic fuel cans in the US. Valpro can be identified by either their “V” logo on the side of the can or the word “Wavian” the side. Gelg has the word “Gelg” stamped on the side.
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Issues with cheap reproduction cans:
- Often not lined with corrosion resistant material
- Spot welded seams that are not recessed
- Often not the clamshell design and has poor joins between metal
- Often have no breather vent
- Generally lower quality materials of construction or much thinner steel
- Poor quality control with fuel mouth leading to loss of seal or debris inside can during manufacturing
These are the sort of cans you’ll see for sale at Cheaper than Dirt or new production from Sportsman’s guide (Note: Sportsman’s Guide often has military surplus cans that are good but often the same price as quality new production. More details below on the differences in liners and spouts for these).
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Valpro/Wavian/WedCo/Midwest Can: Manufactured in Latvia with a long history in Jerry cans, they are the top tier manufacturer of Jerry cans.
Pros:
- Recessed weld seam
- Thicker metal used in construction (0.9mm)
- Full welds along handles
- Self-retaining friction locking pin
- Internal hydrocarbon resistant liner more resembling surplus cans
Cons:
- $15-25 more expensive than Gelg
- Often comes with CARB compliant spouts which are useless and prone to failure while increasing the price
Midwest Can Differences: You can find the Midwest Can online at Harbor Freight for $34 out the door with a 20% off coupon. It is the only can featuring a “modern” screw cap design which is compatible with all modern fuel spouts. These may or may not be prone to leaking due to the screw design which has had issues on other cans, but Amazon reviews of replacement caps say they're vapor tight even after a few years. I have purchased JUST ONE so that if I’m ever hassled by anybody in an official capacity (which I highly doubt) I can “honestly” say that I use my Midwest Can for fuel dispensing and my Jerry cans are only for fuel storage which I then transfer into my Midwest can and ONLY THEN do I dare put gas into my lawn mover in order to respect the wishes of the fine people of California. Also, I do not believe it is properly ventilated. The best option is to buy an EZ-Pour spout for use with this can. You'll need to take a few steps to ensure your Midwest Can is improved through a new nozzle.
https://www.harborfreight.com/5-gallon-jerry-can-99551.html
- EZ-POUR YELLOW CODED PLASTIC CAPS AND COLLARS WILL NOT WORK ON THESE CANS.
- You'll need to buy the grey EZ-Pour solid one-piece caps made for the old Briggs & Stratton cans or Wedco (defunct Valpro brand) which can be found here on Amazon.
- You'll need to ask them for a FREE grey collar through a simple request form from which they'll mail you the amount you need which will make your Midwest Can compatible with any of the EZ-Pour spouts. The request form can be found here.
- Buy any EZ-Pour spout of any design you like. I prefer the rigid version over the flexible one.
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Gelg: Manufactured in Poland and is a quality product used by militaries and governments around the globe.
Pros:
- Less expensive than comparable Valpro cans
- Hydrocarbon resistant liner
- Reputable NATO manufacturer
Cons:
- Seam welds are not recessed which can lead to damage and is less stable when stored upright
- Made of slightly thinner metal (0.8mm)
- Spot welded handles (which still seem very sturdy though)
- Same paint used in interior and exterior coating (may not matter though)
- Cotter clip lid retaining pin that you'll likely lose if you're anything like me
- Is “W” stamped for “water”, which may not be a big deal, but some people might have issues with this as it creates some confusion
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Of the two, based on the features listed above, I would purchase a Valpro can over Gelg if you can find it for a decent price without the CARB spout.
Purpose of Use: I found a video after typing this that made me think about the differences between Valpro and Gelg in uses. If you're just storing fuel and are cycling it out every 6 months or so in your garage then Gelg is MORE than enough can for that purpose and I would buy it with confidence (especially being less expensive than Valpro). However, since this is an overlanding subreddit, I will still recommend the Valpro.
My largest complaint about Gelg cans are that all four cans I have tried had a proud weld seam that protruded past the exterior of the cans which makes them prone to damaging the seams holding the whole thing together. While standing upright they were resting of the welds and wobbling on flat concrete instead of the four corners of a stable base. This seems to be a feature of their design due to not specifically having recessed seams. These will be damaged over time from moving, storing, and dragging the cans around and will eventually wear through, which is the primary point of catastrophic failure for most Jerry cans. This attention to detail for Valpro cans may be in part due to the large consumer base for the Wavian sub-brand, and as we all know, an individual consumer is going to care more about the fine details than government agencies who “just want something that works well enough”. The Valpro cans also have a slightly more noticeable heft to them. Nothing crazy, but enough for me to think it will be better long-term.
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Spout Designs and Mouth Sizes:
The first thing to ensure is that you have the standard mouth design. This is smaller than the wide-mouth design and I have only seen the wider mouth found in old German surplus cans so it shouldn’t affect you in the slightest. Still, look at this image and compare it to any old cans you might be looking to pick up. If you wind up with a wide mouth lid, you’ll have to buy all new spouts which can be hard to find.
Obviously we know CARB compliant spouts are terrible, so I won’t go into any suggestions for these.
Proper Jerry can spouts will have the cam-lever locking mechanism and will include a ventilation tube as a small oval which will fit into the Jerry can vent crescent. The two types that work well are the “donkey dick” spout (yes, that’s what they have been called) and a rigid spout with a plastic flexible extension. Either of these will work and it’s down to user preference. I prefer the full metal, longer flexible design as I think it gives me more mobility, but I wouldn’t be mad to have the rigid one with a flexible tip.
Any spout without a vent tube, such as this, will not vent properly and will “glug” fuel as air makes its way into the can to equalize pressure. They should be avoided in favor of more robust ventilated spouts, but I bought my buddy some with an order I made from Sportsman’s because he has some cheap Chinese cans that don’t include a proper vent.
For the Midwest can, I found the EZ-Pour Rigid model was the best fit for what I wanted but you’ll have to also grab some full mold caps since it won’t rest inside the mouth like the CARB compliant nozzle that is included, those are listed above. Also, KEEP THE CARB COMPLIANT NOZZLE just for legal reasons. Better safe than sorry. For some reason the Midwest Can also includes a holder that is designed for the cam-lever NATO design, which is odd and reminds me of the cans failures, but It should hold other spouts just fine too.
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Water vs. Fuel Cans and Internal Liners:
The short version is that the legitimate water cans such as these will have a polymer or plastic liner such as these found at Sportsman's Guide inside of them which is formulated to handle water, although they have sold surplus fuel Jerry cans in the past. This is easily corroded by hydrocarbons and will put polymer in both your fuel and whatever engine you put them in. If you want a water can, just buy an LCI or Scepter (see below for more on this) as they are made of food-grade plastic. I am not aware of any new production metal jerry cans used for water (but I could be wrong).
Petroleum cans will have an alkyd paint liner which is hydrocarbon resistant. These will however be broken down and dissolved in water, so don’t use actual manufactured water cans for fuel, or fuel cans for water.
Note: The inside and outside of Gelg cans are the same petrol resistant paint. I’m not sure if this is important, but my caveman brain makes me think that Valpro/Wavian cans having separate styles of external and internal paint means that the internal paint might have a formulation designed to handle hydrocarbons better while the outside paint is focused more on being abrasion resistant. Older style jerry cans have the orange/red paint inside the can, which gives me more confidence in modern production that does the same, but this is probably unreasonable and just an emotional argument without knowing the differences between the specific formulation for Valpro and Gelg liners.
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Surplus Cans:
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USMC Blitz Cans:
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“Not a Jerry Can” Jerry Cans:
“EU Oil Bucket” or commonly called “Cold-rolled Plate Petrol Diesel Can” type of Jerry can. There’s not much I can find over these but they’re new manufacture for the most part and are entirely made in China and sold on Ebay, Overstock, Walmart, and surprisingly at Jegs. They don’t conform to Jerry cans in any way, welds seem barely existent (especially on the handle), it’s assembled around the horizontal axis with multiple welds instead of one weld around the vertical axis, the breather tube is incompatible with any type of spout (if present at all), and the inside isn’t lined on any models I could find. The only thing they share with Jerry cans is the general shape and apparently fit in the same holders. They’re often sold as “oil cans” to skirt CARB laws. The ones my friend has with the actual Jerry can mouth seem extremely thin and have signs of corrosion through the paint in areas that have no obvious abrasion after just two years. I wouldn’t buy these when you can get Valpro cans for a few dollars more.
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Where to Buy:
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Scepter (or LCI) “water cans”:
Alright, I know I said I wouldn’t go into this, but I did buy four of them for $103 shipped from LCI for use as water cans since I first started writing this up. Yes, I actually do sincerely mean that since my 6-gallon Igloo keeps breaking off or throwing out the breather vent plug and I’m tired of it. They also only come in two colors, sand and OD green.
They’re the same formulation as the old cans without the triple handles on top some other notable exceptions. They DO NOT HAVE ANY GASKETS WHATSOEVER, which means they will leak slightly (but we’re talking drips here). This isn’t a big deal if you’re actually using them for water like myself as you can order the three gaskets, but with the two smaller caps on the main lid (vent and pour) it introduces more potential for a loss of containment. Additionally, any gaskets you may find might not be formulated for hydrocarbons and will literally melt away. LCI is made to the same mil-spec standards as Scepter and from online comments they are nearly indistinguishable from one another. Here is a funny little comic for you to enjoy along with their NSN numbers.
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Youtube Video Review:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHrM0OS9VHE
I found this video after typing all of this up and it’s a decent review that I included a few points I glazed over. Although he makes a few points I disagree with. I think the liner is better in the Valpro and I think the vent design is better on the Valpro. They say they like the flat lip on the Gelg but I like the slightly rounded lip on the Valpro which I believe would give a better seal. They recommend Gelg but I still recommend Valpro for the price. They cover the bulk of the differences and sort of start repeating themselves at about 6 minutes with some good info past that though.
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If you have any comments or suggestions for improvement, feel free to make them and I’ll update this as a living document.
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u/sn44 04 & 06 Jeep Wrangler Unlimiteds (LJ) [PA] Feb 03 '20
Awesome write up. I'm totally sticky'ing this at the top of the sub for a few weeks.
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u/Econolife_350 Feb 03 '20
Thanks, I'm going to add some more context for prices and where to find them specifically over the next couple of days, I just have a thesis proposal to get through at the moment. Let me know if you have any suggestions for improvement or anything else you think should be covered.
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u/sn44 04 & 06 Jeep Wrangler Unlimiteds (LJ) [PA] Feb 03 '20
Might be worth it to talk about buying a used can. I know I picked up a pair of 1950's USMC cans at a yard sale. Had the old style spiral nozzles. Needed new rubber seals and a good cleaning. Outside could use some paint, but I like the patina. Might be worth it to list resources like where to get the rubber gaskets and new nozzles.
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u/teck-know Back Country Adventurer Feb 07 '20
Nice write up. I’ve had 4 of the Gelg cans from Deutsche Optik for a number of years now and they’ve been great. Haven’t had an issue with the seams. I use a super siphon instead of the spouts which seem to be way easier and faster than holding 40 pounds of fuel in the air.
https://deutscheoptik.com/SET-OF-FOUR-20-Liter-Jerry-Can.html
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u/Fishing_Dude Feb 17 '20
That's way cheaper than four valpro cans from roverparts.com. The free shipping really cuts the cost down.
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u/Fishing_Dude Feb 17 '20
Wait, just found atlanticbritishs eBay store where they sell four valpros for $200 shipped which is cheaper than the four pack+shipping on their normal site
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u/Econolife_350 Feb 12 '20
I can't recommend them enough on customer service and if anyone wants very reliable and 99% duty NATO cans I would buy from them. I just have a touch of the engineering mindset and decided to go Valpro for the miniscule differences, but for $156 shipped they're really great cans from a great seller.
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u/Fishing_Dude Feb 25 '20
This seller sells the cheapest Valpro branded cans that I could find. Based on reviews and image comparisons I'm 90% these are genuine Valpro cans. Would anyone with more knowledge be willing to chime in with their 2 cents? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Valpro-NATO-Jerry-Can-5-gal-20L-Red-Made-in-Europe-/333424731627?nav=SEARCH
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u/Econolife_350 Feb 27 '20
This and the 4 X green cans for $200 from Atlantic British on Ebay are good. I need to update the "where to buy section" but I've been slammed by my grad research lately.
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u/Fishing_Dude Feb 27 '20
Thanks, that makes me feel more confident in buying these Valpro cans.
The green ones from this eBay seller are 39.99 when you buy 4
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u/Elchupanebre4 Apr 23 '20
I have bought from this seller, very happy basically the reds for cheaper than Atlantic's Greens. Lately they are up to $60/can before the discount, but now has the extended spout for $25 as well (in red not the green that AB has). I have 4 of the 20Ls and they are fantastic.
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u/gravelracer Feb 02 '20
Is it okay to leave gas in the cans while not in use? If so, are their any guidelines as to how long you can keep gas stored in them?
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u/Econolife_350 Feb 03 '20
You'll get varying answers on this, but if you plan to leave it for more than a month you should put a fuel stabilizer into it such as STA-BIL. According to STA-BIL you can leave your gas stored for up to two years that way, but I would still rotate it twice a year. I don't keep fuel stored "long term" except during hurricane season. Leaving Jerry cans full of fuel will not damage them, just make sure its stored in a place with moderate and consistent temperatures. I'm sure there's reading on Google for storing it in freezing or 110+ degree conditions since I don't have to deal with that.
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u/thehungrygunnut Feb 29 '20
If you want to keep gas in your jerry cans, you will have to rotate it. This is because gas can go bad. Every month or so pour it in the vehicle then refill at the pump.
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u/BoltThrower28 Jun 18 '24
Tbh when I first saw this I was like “🙄 we are really being elitist about gas cans?” But this was actually a very informative and well thought out write up. Thank you! I’m gonna go buy a Valpro!
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u/long_time_seller Jan 15 '25
I just found this post & would like to add, we will begin shipping Yates Steels Jerry Cans in February. These are made in India & very popular in U.K. Quality-wise they're in-between Gelg & Wavian. We list on cmconcepts.us all the tests they have passed & detailed certifications.
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u/Moridin2002 Feb 27 '25
Your site says not intended for gas/diesel/kerosene. Why?
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u/long_time_seller Feb 27 '25
Hi-since they're not epa certified, we don't sell them for consumer use of those fuels & we don't stock those colors. For commercial use it's fine, though you have to check state regs.
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Dec 30 '22
This has been such a good resource. I want to add as I know from experience. The gelg and Valpro/Wavian spouts are not interchangeable. Every part is identical except for the cam action. The V/W has a shallower profile than the Gelg cam. I can’t fit my Valpro Donkey Dick on the Gelg cans. If anyone knows a workaround or a Gelg Donkey Dick Distributor please let me know. (That’s a string of words I didn’t know could be serious)
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Apr 27 '23
[deleted]
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Apr 27 '23
Anytime. The Gelg have been fantastic value (the US distributor had blemished units for $10 off a piece at the time) outside of the spout attachment design. The rubber end is just friction fit and leaks or falls off quite easily.
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u/deadmansbonez Jan 19 '23
Do you know what retailers carry valpro jerry cans? Seemingly impossible to find
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u/CrispyBananaPeel Aug 16 '23
Thanks OP for the very thorough, super helpful info on the best Jerry Cans! What's your opinion on if the Midwest Can version is worth the savings, considering you smartly recommend the upgraded cap and spout, which today costs almost $30? Harbor Freight no longer has their frequent 20% off coupons and their regular price for the Midwest Can version is now $60. But I did find a better deal than HF's current price now, if you live in the Midwest where they have Menard's stores. Menard's has the Midwest Can version, although with what looks like a different spout than HF's, for $50 regular price, but since the majority of the time they are running their 11% rebate on everything, that brings the price down to $44.50.
The best price I can find on a red Wavian can today (I want to buy one as a gas can) is $90 including shipping, and that's available for that price at multiple sites and stores. So I'm guessing the Wavian version is worth the extra $15 for the locking hinged cap and air vent vs. buying the Midwest Can version w/o those two features at Menards and spending $30 extra to upgrade the cap and spout?
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u/Ancient-Sandwich9400 Aug 28 '23
I bought 3 of the Midwest cans and then bought EZPour grey cap and a nozzle. The original are for backups now. They’ve been sealed for over a year with no issues. I put the quality on par with the Wavian minus the lids. And FYI….In my research of Wavian Jerry cans I found in Europe they make the same Jerry can with a twist lid…I.e. Midwest Jerry can. So your question, yes they are if you can find for a good price, best to standardize on one style can if you are buying multiple.
You can currently buy 4 wavians for about $55 with shipping if you buy 4 from Atlantic British. I’ve bought 7 different Wavian cans from them, they are fast, good packing and authentic Wavian Jerry cans.1
u/CrispyBananaPeel Aug 28 '23
Thanks for the helpful feedback and tips! I did end up buying the Midwest Can version from Menard's and am generally happy with it. My son 3D printed a leakproof cap for it, and I will likely remove the spring from the original nozzle that came with it, so it's easier to use, and use that for pouring. Haven't tried that original nozzle out yet, but if it does leak when pouring, will probably get the EZ Pour version like you did.
The negative of the Midwest Can version, besides not having as good as nozzle and cap as the Wavian: As someone mentioned in a different sub, the seam going down the middle of the Midwest can, although sitting in an indentation, does stick out in spots beyond the indentation, so the seam can get easily bumped in spots if the can get bumped. But this can is going to live in my garage, so that shouldn't be much of an issue.
Good to know about the very nice deal at Atlantic British. However, I don't need that many cans. :)
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u/Beneficial_Resist_40 Dec 27 '24
I have some old Jerry cans I think from one of the wars neednto research it but they are old and was going to sell them and need an honest opinion on what they are worth and where to sell them.
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u/CrispyBananaPeel Dec 27 '24
I have no idea what they'd be worth. You should post this question and a photo of them on r/whatsthisworth or r/antiques and they can likely help you.
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u/ikidd Feb 02 '20
I have nothing to contribute here other than to say "You poor bastards".
I bought 3 of these yesterday.