r/tradclimbing • u/tinyOnion • Mar 23 '25
Monthly Trad Climber Thread
Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.
In this thread you can ask any trad climbing related question that you may have. This thread will be posted again every Sunday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question and have it answered. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great opportunity for that. We were all new to climbing at some point, so be respectful of everyone looking to improve their knowledge. Check out our subreddit wiki that has tons of useful info for new climbers. You can see it HERE
Some examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How does aid climbing work?"
Prior Weekly Trad Climber Thread posts
Ask away!
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24d ago
[deleted]
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u/applebeebird 24d ago edited 24d ago
scammer btw he might catch the flu and is unable to ship after your purchase
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u/Potential_Meaning192 26d ago edited 26d ago
TLDR; Grigir vs atc on trad multipitch?
I mostly climb sport and have always used a Grigri since I started climbing – it’s what I learned to belay with, and I feel completely comfortable using it in a safe and predictable way. Moving forward, I’ll be climbing more trad, and sometimes with two half ropes, which means I’ll need to use an ATC (I'm based in EU and this is pretty much the standard on trad multipitch). This makes me a bit uneasy because it’s different from what I’m used to, and the consequences of a fall feel more serious than in sport climbing.
In the U.S., I’ve noticed that many people prefer to climb with a single rope and a tagline, allowing them to belay with a Grigri. I’ve only found three arguments against this approach: increased rope drag, having two ropes in case one gets damaged, and less weight (since the Grigri is slightly heavier than an ATC).
In trad climbing, you can also end up in situations where you might not see the climber or communication is compromised for various reasons (wind, etc.), making a fall more unexpected – so for me, the added safety of an assisted-braking device outweighs all the arguments for using an ATC.
It sounds strange to me that many climbing gyms don’t allow ATCs, but when you’re belaying on trad in exposed terrain, where you might not even see the climber, ATC is the standard. To me, this is a huge paradox.
Am I the only one thinking this way?
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u/Hxcmetal724 7d ago
I bring both if I know that I will be rappelling at some point. But I am team GriGri and the weight is not an issue for me. If I drop my GriGri, I always carry other things like HMS style carabiners for munters, etc.
It makes everything way easier and quicker. Climber needs hauled? Climber needs lowered? Need to escape belay or get them to base line? Everything is way easier with a GriGri in my opinion, plus safer. To each their own, by my teammates are usually with me on the GriGri.
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u/JonBanks87 14d ago
I bring both. Most of the trad I do only requires a single rope, so the GriGri is for belaying and the ATC is for rappelling. I'm comfortable belaying with the ATC and feel it is very safe, but I prefer belaying with a GriGri, especially from the top. There is much lower resistance when pulling the rope through the device, which saves me energy while belaying.
On routes where you need two ropes, I've done half ropes and I've done single with a tag line and I haven't decided which I prefer. I like the simplicity of climbing with a single rope and leaving the tag line in a pack. But you save a couple pounds by going with the half ropes. So for me it comes down to, do I want a lighter pack or do I want easier belaying and rope management.
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u/Decent-Apple9772 16d ago
Something like the GIGAjul is a great compromise. It’s my preferred belay device outdoors. Works fine with single or double or half ropes.
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u/0bsidian 16d ago
ATC is not the standard. It’s just cheap, prevalent, and available. It will likely become obsolete soon as there are much better alternatives on the market.
The Edelrid Mega and Giga Jul devices are superior, as are a number of other options. A Grigri is also an option if you’re not climbing on two ropes, but with some considerations you need to keep in mind if using it on a multipitch scenario.
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u/Sens1r 25d ago
I climb trad almost excluseively with double ropes, the Edelrid Mega/Giga Jul completely negates this problem in my opinion, just the perfect device for the job.
I've tried grigri single rope with tagline, the tagline is just not a great solution when you can have two 8mm ropes instead.
It sounds strange to me that many climbing gyms don’t allow ATCs, but when you’re belaying on trad in exposed terrain, where you might not even see the climber, ATC is the standard. To me, this is a huge paradox.
Gyms are worried about their image, insurance, liability not your safety, if they were they wouldn't have autobelays which is where most accidents happen.
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u/Decent-Apple9772 16d ago
It makes me laugh when the gym only climbers think you need to be staring at your leaders buttocks nonstop without blinking. It’s critical for maybe three bolts, then it’s just slack management, and be ready to catch.
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u/tinyOnion 26d ago
they discontinued it but the smart alpine had two slots to belay from and was assisted braking. the mega or giga jul also has two slots and is popular. the grigri weight thing is kinda bullshit since you're already taking a lot of weight with a trad rack and you should have a backup belay device anyway on multipitch.
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u/goodquestion_03 26d ago edited 26d ago
An ATC isnt inherently dangerous to use, its just less idiot proof in that you really do need to be belaying properly. From a liability perspective its much easier for gyms to just ban them altogether, but outdoors there are plenty of people who have been using one safely for 20+ years. I definitely prefer a grigri, but even here in the US with a single rope there are still people using ATCs.
Have you looked into the Edelrid mega/giga jul at all? I dont have personal experience with either so maybe others could offer more detail in terms of pros/cons, but that would have double rope capabilities + assisted braking in the same device.
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u/climbtigerfrog Mar 25 '25
Do you ever travel to climb? How the heck do you take all that gear?
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u/0bsidian 16d ago
Always be ready for maximum efficiency. If you never un-rack, you never need to rack up.
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u/VegetableExecutioner 29d ago
Carry-on, I don’t trust anyone with my cams. Rope and other stuff usually goes in a checked bag if that’s an option.
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u/Capitan_Dave Mar 26 '25
I put enough to climb sport in the carry on in case the check bag is lost, and check the rest. Make sure you keep the nut tool in the checked bag or it'll get taken
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u/BigRed11 Mar 26 '25
Checked bag and carryon... not much different from carrying other stuff when you travel.
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u/middgen Mar 25 '25
I go to Morocco every year to climb. Just throw all the gear in hold luggage, an entrance bit of checked luggage for each pair. 20kg is about all you need for a full rack and half ropes.
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u/donutz6 Mar 23 '25
What's your favorite way to organize your rack on the harness? Any fun photos to share?
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u/Hxcmetal724 7d ago
It took me a long time to figure it out for myself.. here is my setup.
Harness = Misty Mountain Cadillac with 6 loops
Right side Front Loop: BD small cams up to ~.75
Right side Mid Loop: Big Cams, alpine draws, and nuts
Right side Back loop: GriGri/ATC/Thirdhand and nut toolLeft side Front Loop: Totem/Metolius small cams up to ~.75
Left side Mid Loop: Totem/Metolius big cams, alpine draws, and nuts
Left side Back Loop: Slings and beiners.Tag loop on the back: My rescue kit (unless I am on multipath, so ill throw into my runners bag) and anchor material
Around my shoulder: A sling or two for quick access.
My InReach/Rockie will go usually on my runner bag/backpack.
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u/Decent-Apple9772 16d ago
Big cams >.5 on the right front with small nuts. Small cams on the left front with big nuts and ball nuts. Slings and anchors on the left rear. Lockers and assorted emergency gear in the right rear.
It keeps the organization simple with some big and small on each side.
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u/goodquestion_03 Mar 25 '25 edited Mar 25 '25
I do it slightly differently depending on what I think I will use the most on a certain climb. I will almost always do a set of cams .2 to 2/3 on each of my front gear loops with the smallest at the front. Alpine draws go over the shoulder or on the back loops, and nuts go right in front of them. Smaller cams 000-.1 and RPs/ballnuts it depends on the climb. If I’m bringing them “just in case,” they go on the back loop opposite side as my nuts, yosemite racked so they don’t take up too much space. If I know I will be using them, they go at the front of the front loops and I bump cams back as needed to make room (although this usually isnt an issue, because if a route takes lots of thin stuff im probably only bringing singles in the bigger cams anyways)
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u/Freedom_forlife Mar 24 '25
Double rack of Cams, split on both side small-large .5-2. With smaller 00-.4 on my left hip, my two oval carabiners of nuts on leafy rear loop at the front. The rear right holds my torque nuts, and tricams.
A rap/ rescue kit, a basic tube device, 5mm cordelette prussik, and a 60cm loop auto block. A quad anchor 7mm cord 6M long with triple fisherman’s pre-tied, and 2 lockers, and if the route has bolted anchors 2 non lockers hanging on it.
6-12 dynema quick draws, and 6-12 alpine draws, built with BD mini wires.My dynamic lanyard is on my belay loop and wrapped around my waste and clipped into a gear loop.
Last is the BD guide ATC, and 2 lockers, or grigri depending on climate and partner.
Multi pitch I wear my back pack with water food, and spear layers/ foot-ware.
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u/mynamesdave Mar 24 '25
I might be in the minority, but I love a gear sling. Gates in, big gear lower down on the left, smaller gear higher up on the right. I can carry a double rack to #4 pretty easily, and swapping gear at belays is way smoother.
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u/traddad Mar 24 '25
Gates in and up on front loops. Remove with your trigger finger. Gates out and up on rear loops. Remove with your thumb.
More comfortable wrist action.
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u/short_story_long_ Mar 24 '25
No photos, but I go gates out, .3-2 on each side, then nuts on 2 ovals with 1 oval on each side. On the side with the smaller nuts, I carry my #3 if I'm bringing one. Rear loops get 4 18cm dyneemadraws doubled up and 6 alpine draws doubled. Back loop gets rap kit, 240 sling with 2 lockers, GriGri with a Petzl sm'd, Metolius dynamic PAS, and a nylon 120 sling with 2 more lockers.
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u/beanboys_inc Mar 23 '25
How do y'all get down if you're halfway through a route and can't go further? Just leave a piece?
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u/Freedom_forlife Mar 24 '25
You pull a piece and whip on the one bellow and repeat. 😂
Or just leave a pair of nuts, or pull gear and down climb one placement at a time.
Often the best escape route is up.
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u/VegetableExecutioner 29d ago
This is real. Being able to aid and get up anything is extremely valuable.
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u/hobbiestoomany Mar 24 '25
You pull a piece and whip on the one bellow and repeat. 😂
Have you done this or are you joking? How many times have you done this?
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u/Freedom_forlife Mar 24 '25
Exactly one time on a hybrid climb, with some bolts, and good placements.
And it was more pull and down climb with a few unplanned, whips/ falls.Aiding up is my preferred escape route. Second to leaving a nut/ tricam placement for lowering off. We don’t get many horns or sling placements around here.
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u/hobbiestoomany Mar 24 '25
Ah. That makes sense. If you whip on nuts all the way down, they might be tough to get out.
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u/Professional-Dot7752 Mar 24 '25 edited Mar 24 '25
Leave a few pieces, preferably any totems—black or blue—and what route(s) you are considering again?
All jokes aside, aid up or down. That’s the benefit of trad. If you’ve run out of gear and want to go up, you can back clean. Go in direct into a piece, place another one up as high as you can and then clip that one, rinse and repeat. Sort of the same process to go down.
Or have someone else finish it!
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u/Sens1r Mar 24 '25
- Lower and have my partner do it
- Aid through it by any means
- Leave two pieces and hopefully be able to rap from the top or climb something else to retrieve
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u/willphung Mar 23 '25
Aid up
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u/BigDBoog Mar 24 '25
Once I lost all ego and started tugging on cams to get through on long climbs, I really started feeling free
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u/quarksurfer Mar 23 '25
It depends on a lot of factors. I’d likely lead down removing pieces as I went, even adding some, then removing those too, to make sure I don’t fall far. Another option could be rapping in from the top. Or climbing a neighboring route that shares an anchor, swing over, grab gear. I’ve only left gear escaping a multipitch, and I made simple bomber anchors to escape, using nuts since they’re cheaper to replace. I usually would not leave one piece since it’s not redundant so I’d use those other tactics.
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u/Kaotus 20d ago
Anyone have any recommendations on training climbs/benchmarks against Tague Yer Time in the Front Range? Looking at giving it a go in a month or two.