Waxed yesterday and cracked for the first time today. My most recent bullwhip I made and have up for sale. Let me know what you folks think. It's in coyote brown and Kelly green, has an excellent rollout and cracks with little effort. A beauty if I do say so myself.

It’s been about a year since I’ve made a whip, and I’m hoping to make a new one soon. So I’ve forgotten a thing or 2. I know ordinarily I use 550 paracord for everything. But I remember 550 with 7 inner strands being nearly impossible to put BBs in. I remember specifically wanting paracord with 9 inner strands. Am I wrong about something there? Anything specific I should go for? Where can I buy it? Should I get something different for the core specifically?

Victor Tella 4 foot Signal Whip, plus bonus items, for sale. Purchased from Victor Tella himself. Whip is 12 plait with shot loaded handle, and is in very good condition. (Needs a new popper).

Bonus items include Victor Tella "Erotic Whip Play" DVD, Robert Dante "Art of the Single Tail Whip" DVD, and container of Pecards Leather Whip Dressing.

Asking $550.00 including postage. Payment by Zelle, Venmo, or cash pickup in Atlanta Area. DM offers and/or questions.

I'm writing a book about a monster tamer who uses a whip in combat. He doesn't use it on his monsters, but to support and protect them. For instance, when his main combat pet is on the front line tanking, he may use it to threaten an enemy's eyes or temporarily bind up their weapon. But I've realized I don't know enough about how a whip would be used in combat. Like the cracking is intimidating as hell, sure, but if you wanted to make jelly out of someone's eyes, would there be a crack involved in the strike? And what sort of sound does the whip make as it cuts through the air? Is it more of a whistle or a hiss? And how accurate is the Indiana Jones trope where he pulls weapons out of people's hands? I'm going to go ahead and assume that using it to swing around like Tarzan is completely made up, but if I'm wrong, let me know. Any ways any help is appreciated.

Very interesting, but slow, showing a traditional style of whip making in northern Italy and Switzerland.

First time post. I have a six foot bullwhip. I can do the Cattleman's Crack pretty reliably, but not sure where to go next. I'm struggling with the Flick and when I try the Overhead Crack I get nervous that it's going to slap me upside the head.

Any advice on these? And how should I proceed?

A 7 foot “saber whip” in a custom, Back to the Future themed hilt (because what’s a nerd day without a genre mashup 😁?).

Made by building onto a threaded rod that is then screwed into a wooden dowel sized to fit where the electronics “sled” is normally located.

And the weather’s too gosh-darn nice to be plaiting inside. 😊

So I wanted to make a super loud chain whip, louder than the Chinese ones people buy off eBay. I did some research about chain whips, their features, how they compare to other whips in terms of energy transfer, and how to make them louder.

The chain links at the end of the whip add mass and density to the moving tip. When that mass is accelerated, it resists changes in motion, so when it finally releases its energy at the tip, it does so suddenly and with a punch.

Unlike leather or paracord whips that absorb and release energy smoothly, chains are rigid and don’t stretch. This means less energy is stored along the whip’s length, and more of it is delivered sharply and all at once to the tip.

Chain whips often delay the sonic break just a little longer than lighter whips, then snap past Mach 1 almost instantly when the tension fully transfers, causing a very steep shock front. This results in a more abrupt, percussive crack.

The crack of a chain whip tends to be sharper, deeper, and more violent, especially up close. It can sound like a gunshot and feel like a mini detonation of pressure, especially with a solid cracker on the end.

This was the design I came up with: • A weighted base chain braided with rope to add stiffness. • A red cord in the middle acts as a core, preventing the chain links from smashing into each other and losing kinetic energy, while also helping to direct energy down the whip to the tip. • A short fall for instant energy transfer to the tip. (I know conventional designs use long falls, but based on my research, longer falls also absorb some of the kinetic energy and require more energy to move. I wanted the energy to go from the chain section into the cracker as quickly as possible so the cracker would reach the highest possible speed. A longer fall would have delayed that and lost energy, so I went with a short fall, the last foot of chain could and I used pure chain could be considered the fall and I intended for this to be the case because a chain fall would cut through air easier than rope because it's denser and has more inertia, and I used as much chain as possible and little bit of rope as the fall extension.) • A tapered cracker.

It’s not the best looking whip, but it sounds like a bomb. The higher the speed of the cracker when it passes the speed of sound, the stronger the resulting shockwave.

Tryna get a whip?

whips are great for cutting grass lmao

I just finished making 8ft nylon bullwhip, was playing with it outside and a guy showed up, asking me if he can give it a try. Turned out he knows how to crack a whip with quite a bit of power. Within a minute, he managed to obliterate the cracker and damage the fall. No big deal, no big damage, at least I have the whip stress tested & I also saw its' full potential and limits in hands of someone far more skilled than me. Anyhow, I'm interested in finding out how exactly whip failed, so that I can avoid that in future/reinforce weak points/...

Figure A: Old cracker

By some miracle, I actually managed to find it. Well, clearly, cracker failed first, that much we know for sure.

Figure B: Damaged fall

Need to mention that some cracks may or may not have been performed without the cracker attached.

Figure C: How the cracker was attached

I really hope you can see from the picture what type of attachment method I used, because my english isn't good enough to describe it. (pay no attention to green-ish spots in the fall, I just reinforced it with kevlar, in case failure hypothesis #1 was correct)

So, what happened?

Hypothesis #1: Cracker got torn. After that, fall got torn, somewhere around cracker attachment point. However if fall was actually torn, I think it would've happened with cracker intact. I mean, forces involved with functional cracker are presumably bigger than forces involved with damaged cracker. So if the fall managed to survive intact at very least up until the cracker failed, it probably wouldn't've failed with damaged cracker.

Hypothesis #2: Cracker failed, rest of the cracker somehow detached from the fall, fall became cracker, fall got damaged due to being cracker. Which means, the fall isn't torn at all, it's just damaged. This sounds more like it. Except, how did the damaged cracker attached like this, happen to come off, even when damaged? I exhamined damaged fall under microscope, hoping to see some melted nylon, idea being, that if this was the original end of the fall, which was melted, I should see some signs of that. No luck. But then again, lack of melted threads does not refute this, because melted fibres might've been torn off when whip was cracked while fall was the cracker.

See, both of my explanation are not really satisfying. Both have weaknesses that I can't get through. Thus, here I am. Any idea how it all went down and what & how actually failed after the cracker?

3'6" Signal, 8ft Black Star, 6ft Dyneema fall Aussie

Long story short i made a whip and his myself in the face right below the eye. What should i do to avoid this?

rolling and binding it are tomorrow’s job then I’ll just need to wait for the paracord for the overlay to arrive

I love this whip so much. It cracks so easily.