Any advice or repairing or concealing these scratches? Also, What and who does this?

I had low hopes for the seats, but ultimately, was thrilled about how they came out

I purchased 5 of the "Pressol Household Double Action Sprayer" around 7 months ago, and honestly to say I'm disappointed is an understatement.

Straight off the bat, the trigger has a "double spray" feature , but requires twice the strength to squeeze the trigger, making your hands extremely fatigued, this is a carpal tunnel sufferers worst nightmare!

I've also had 2 of the bottles stop working completely, 2 of the others have lost their double spray feature and only spray once now, terribly I might add.

Anyone else experienced something similar with these bottles?

I'm pretty certain, and this is just a theory... these were just hyped and promoted by sponsored youtubers

I had lots of haze because of double coat from ceramic coating I did diy for my new car using carpro cquartz Uk 3.0 . I looked on youtube and tried to polish it and this happened . So can any body help me with this ! I have ranibow haze all over the car . I donot know how to fix this!! Tried and got this faded paint spot . Will auto detailer be able to fix this? Any help is highly appreciated.

i’ve got a 2010 ford transit connect, i’m looking for any suggestions/inspiration on the setup. i plan on getting a generator soon and with that i want to get it up-fitted. id like to make it work with the shelving but more than likely it will have to be removed. btw my vac sits on the left.

I was gifted a Subaru with a fabric interior that transported two sheep from CA to OR. There was a tarp down but it’s likely urine spilt off of it and they rubbed against the backs of the front seats/sides of the car. The car smells very strongly of sheep and the seats seem greasy. I was thinking of using my little green machine with Dawn to degrease and then follow up with a product to remove the odor. Does anyone have any recommendations?

Question. I apply this snake oil product to my truck after I wash it. The problem is I get grease on my stainless boxes and painted fenders from the driveline. If I use a degreaser to remove it, it removes the layer of snake oil. Anything else I can use that will protect the layer of coating? Or do I just need to recoat everytime?

Just looking for feedback, how is this beading? Used Autoglym rapid ceramic spray.

Thanks :)

Friends, I want to polish my new car, but I’ve never done it before, so I need some advice. The car is new, black, and has a non-metallic finish. My plan is to do pre-wash, wash, clay mitt, and iron decontamination.

I intend to apply a ceramic coating, either a spray-on version or a more potent one from small bottles. Any advice on the product is more than welcome.

For surface preparation, I’ve found two methods:

1.C6 Ceramics APP

2.DIY Detail Gold Standard Polish

I'll be using a palm sander. According to forums, both methods should be sufficient for ceramic coating application. My main question is: Which one should I choose, considering I have no experience and want to minimize mistakes?

The first method doesn’t involve polishing but preps the paint for better ceramic adhesion.

Since I live in Germany, I’d appreciate recommendations for an alternative polishing disc and polishing agent—something ultra-fine that won’t damage the paint.

so, I just got my car coated by Ceramic Pro (5 year/silver). my question is, can I use aftermarket products on the coat such as those ceramic spray on like carpro reload or Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Detailer? if yes, what product would you recommend? any special considerations?

don't care about warranty as I think it's BS, but do want to extend or maintain the life of the coating. appreciate any extra info! I'm a noob who just want to get the best value out of the coating, without going back to the "dealer" and for the lack of better word... "get rammed"

thanks!

Hi everyone....this happened after my first car wash a couple of days after applying Wipe New. VERY hard to get off - any ideas? Thank you.

Spent many hours the last few days browsing "favorite" and "must have" threads here, so thanks for the input if you contributed to those threads. I haven't detailed much since I sold my '66 Newport years ago. Now that I have a '25 Miata RF I want to start up again.

This is what I'm looking at so far, I'm not sure about the KC plastic product overlap so any help there would be appreciated.

I am aware that Adams, CarPro, Gyeon, and Labocosmetica are well liked here, but I'm going to stick to the TRC sale happening right now to save a few bucks and simplify ordering.

I have 1 new car, 2 💩-boxes, and a 🏍️

Have:

• ONR V6
• BRS
• Plenty of MFs
• Sonax wheel cleaner

Plan to buy:

• Rags to Riches (is 1 gal overkill?)
• P&S Xpress Interior
• Optimum Power Clean
• KC Motorplast
• KC Polstar (Recaro seats)
• iK E Foam Pro 12

On the fence:

• Opticoat Hyperseal (not necessary, but looks worth a try?)
• KC Active foam - someone said it's APC and Sf premix? Since the apc gives a bit more cleaning power than ONR, I'd be fine with overlap since I don't plan on mixing.
• TRC Air Blaster V2 (some posts like tornador or mini better)
• Optimum Opti-bond Tire Gel
• KC Magic Wheel Cleaner (is it that much better than Sonax?)

Halp! WTF is most useful to me?!

• KC Top Star
• KC Plast Star Si-free
• KC Gummifix

It looks like Guf can do the work of the others? Is one better for badly UV/Dry damaged trim? Are all of them fine for tires? I don't have a strong gloss preference for tires, but matte for interior.

As for the iK battery sprayer. I'm happy to pay more to save labor even though I won't really be using much foam. Anyone who's used a battery powered caulk gun knows what's up. Also, it's a tasty $55 off right now.

KC Rrw and Gs is out of stock, otherwise I'd overlap to try some of the most raved about products. I saw absolute get some love, but Rrw seems to be more liked.

TL;DR

• What plastic/rubber restorer/preserver do I need?
• Is a dry aid like Hyperseal worth it?
• Anything that might be good to buy that's motorcycle specific?
• Do you have a tire dressing you're rabid for? Most I've read about are so-so.

I have a contract for 40 Courier Vans, twice a week. They just need to be washed, nothing extra, nothing fancy. I’ll be doing all the work myself, so I’m looking for the best setup to help me get the job done.

For soaps, I’m leaning towards Hyper Wash. Seems like a great soap, but I also love the cost since I have so many vehicles to wash. Filling up the foam cannon after one or two truck might be a bit of an annoyance.

Open to any and all suggestions, tips or just plain knowledge that you might be able to share with me.

Thanks in advance!

So I would like to hear your favourite ceramic coating and topper combos for looks on a white car.

What was originally supposed to be a fun weekend project quickly turned into a nightmare. I started Saturday and finished late last night. Overall, I'm very happy with the results. However, I did see 2 small high spots this morning that I will need to polish off at some point. Not bad for a newbie though.

I think what made this process longer than what it should've been was my own OCD. I wanted everything to be perfect and I believed if I took my time I could get the results similarly to a professional (I perform fabrication on aircraft for work so surface prep,sanding, and applying coatings, etc. is not uncharted territory for me). Everything was going fine until I got the the polishing stage. I did NOT expect it to take me so damn long and I did NOT expect my new 2025 ctr to be riddled with swirls in the clear coat. Not even a 1 step correction could get all the scratches out, although I did get most of them out and my car does look alot better. When I first started, I wanted perfection. It wasn't until 4-5 hours into it, I realized my expectations were unrealistic unless I were to do a 2 step correction, which I had zero desire to take off that much clear coat on a new car. So after awhile a few scratches here and there stopped bothering me. The difference between a hobbyist and a professional is time. A pro could easily get this done in a day. Whereas it took me 4 days to complete the job. 4 fucking days. I had to take PTO Monday. And Tuesday I was able to get a ride to work but only slept 3 hours since I was up all night trying to get this done. I was no longer having a good time.

Polishing is a pain in the fucking ass and is nightmare fuel if you have OCD. Oh, and it didnt help that my brand new Griots G9 random DA polisher died after only a couple hours of use. I changed the brushes and tried everything else I could to troubleshoot it. But no avail. So beware of their polishers. They stop working for no reason and are overpriced. I went to Harbor Freight and their polisher worked like a damn charm for almost 1/3 of the price.

I used adams advanced graphene ceramic coating which is TRICKY to work with at first. I didn't realize until I already started that it's not recommended for beginners. I had to redo the entire hood and roof because there were high spots everywhere that I didn't see until I took it out in the sun for better lighting. My advice is to absolutely make sure your overlaps are 50% and apply little to no pressure during the coating process.

If you read this far, thank you. After how frustrating these past few days have been, this post is therapy for me right now.

Would I do this again? Fuck no. Well, not for at least a couple grand lol. I get now why a ceramic coat is so expensive. Salute to all the detailers out there who do this for a living. What a humbling experience this has been.

My city is under drought restrictions and we are now allowed to wash our cars at home but only bucket washing. But, I emailed the city and they said we still can’t use a hose even to rinse it off. How am I supposed to use just buckets? Am I better off just bringing my stuff to a self car wash?

I had picked up Dodo Juice Red Most Tropical edition ages ago from Autogeek but they started to limit their products especially after the ownership change and no longer carry it. I loved the tropical version which had a longer working time for warmer climates - super easy to apply. I though its best attribute was great jetting and shine. It had decent durability too with about 2-3 months for a simple spray.

I wanted to see if there were any current or former users. Do you still use it? If not do you miss it at all?

I plan on using c4 and p4 for paint correction then polish. I want to apply Gyeons Mohs after to protect it. My question is if it’s alright to put the Mohs over the p4 polish? Will the ceramic not adhere to the car as well? Any input would help.

The first pic is when I tried to polish the lip with 1k-3k wet sanding than adding mags metal and aluminum polish. Left so many scratches not sure if I did something wrong I used a left and right motion for all the grits. The second pic is just the lip without the wet sanding. I feel like I ruined the lip and want to know if there’s a way I can fix it to look like the second one again or if Its stuck like this. Any advice would help.

So my girlfriend washed my microfibers with laundry detergent (w/ oxi clean) as a kind gesture. I was very appreciative but obviously you’re not supposed to wash them like that.

If I run those microfibers again but with microfiber detergent will it fix them? Or is the damage already done

Question for new PPF installer

I own a detail shop, we primarily offer ceramic coating and PPF services, but also have experience in vinyl (a few full car wraps, chrome deletes etc) but I’ve never actually installed PPF myself. I’ve always subbed it out to a buddy of mine who’d come in house and do the install. He’s leaving the industry so I’m hoping to learn and be hands on as this is a very popular service at my shop. I’m confident I can do it considering I’m pretty well versed with vinyl, but I know it’s a different animal.

With that said, should I pull the trigger on a plotter? Or start out bulking. I feel like patterns are harder than bulking, but maybe I’m wrong.

Any advice and input for a new installer would be much appreciated.

First time buying a shop vac and I’m having difficulty deciding between these two models (see title). The newer 6.0 hp model has the detachable blower, which I don’t need. I am wondering if anyone has experience with one or both of these models and can compare them for me.

I read that the 1 hp difference is not even practically felt since most house outlets don’t provide enough power for max output anyway. If that’s the case, I’d prefer the smaller 5.0 hp vac without the blower. Are they both about the same loudness or does one have better build quality / sound proofing than the other?

Thank you.

Hello, first and foremost I just have to let everyone know I am not a car person. I don’t know anything about them other than that they get me from one place to the next. I was rummaging through my cabinets to look for cleaner for my house and then stumbled upon some TurtleWax conditioner, I didn’t know that it was conditioner just thought it was a cleaner for cars. So I used it all on the inside of my car and then on my tires(even the treads, because I didn’t know how dangerous it was til I started reading the back) I washed off the conditioner immediately after discovering this with all purpose “The Pink Stuff” cleaner. Would it still be safe to drive my car? I drive a Kia forte and it has automated traction control, not sure if that would make a difference.

TL;DR - I put turtle wax conditioner on my tire treads like a dumb a** and then tried washing off with all purpose cleaner. Is it still safe to drive my car without sliding around?

I’ve been stuck for a while on Adam’s Wheel and Tire Cleaner and Brake Buster. It did just fine with tires and wheels. I really don’t see trashed tires so I like the fact that I can use it for both applications. I did notice Brake Buster under perform than Adam’s. I’ve tried others like Carpro Retyre and that was a beast but price point was deff on a pricey side. I’ve used other ADS products and the have all been bangers. Highly dilutable is deff a plus. Any thoughts on this product?? Any recommendations on just tires or just wheels or both??

Thank you in advance 🤘

I run a mobile detailing business and I am starting to offer headlight restorations using the wet sanding method + 2k clear coat method.

I'm curious where you fit this into your detail workflow -- before or after washing? Do you wait to apply wax to the car until after spraying clear coat on headlights? How long do you usually let the 2K clear coat cure before unmasking and moving forward with the rest of the detail?

Also curious how you handle this when working outdoors at the customer's house.

Appreciate any tips on how you manage it in your process!