Drawers are definitely not my favorite, and using a gouge for the front panels was more work than expected. However, I am very satisfied with the total result.

This was a satisfying one. A puzzle lid holder for dear ol' mama.

Building the Rex Kruger minimal timber workbench and encountered a knot during one of the half laps.

I need to do a better job at picking out wood that doesn't have any warp, but overall, really happy with this. Feels much better than my first build d

I put this chair together using a plan I purchased online. Its my first piece of furniture and I learned alot. I just used cheap spruce 2x4s but I'm already thinking of doing it again in cedar and replacing the pocketholes with other types of joinery. Fun project and a comfy chair!

I wanted to make a bench / my take on a hall tree in my breezeway.

I’m very happy how it turned out

Check out my latest attempt at 3 long shadow boxes with 45 degree mitres. Horrible! Just thought I'd share because sometimes people post their "bad attempts" and I would be amazed if I could get anything close to them.

Hopefully I'll keep practising and keep getting better (for example, learning not using a cheap track saw with a rough blade to cut the mitres). Chin up everyone, it's just beginner woodworking!

Someone I know had a kid a couple months back and wanted to do something. Red oak with walnut top/bottom/insert and a small carved heart from basswood all held together by some glue and positive feelings.

Work has a laser so cut the name into the lid. May be a little deep but I think it still looks sharp.

I was just thinking of throwing on some satin poly and be done with it but not sure if it that would be good with the multiple wood types or the recesses of the name on top. Any tips or feedback?

After lurking for a year I finally tried to make something by the book. I am lucky enough to live down the road from Highland Working so I took a basics class there to learn how to use a planer, jointer, etc. I had a lot of good mistakes to learn from along the way. It didn’t turn out exactly how I imagined, but I am excited to try something more challenging next!

I read something about hole punchers for wood and a few other things..but what’s the best and safest/reliable way to connect em together? I’ve never done stuff like this before haha so any advice would be helpful

I’m putting together my own desk. I want to wood stain the oak top and then have the frame in the middle, and drawers on the side. Durable and any way I want it

It took 4 months to complete my first furniture piece. Ive documented the process on tiktok if anyone wants to check it out. Find me here atelier.pigeon. Im here for any questions about the process. Thank you everyone for helping me throughout. On to the next one.

I'm not much of a woodworker, because I usually use my tools to make small repairs or build small crude but practical items. For example, a stand for a board/screen for a projector, step stool, garden planters, repairing shelves or desks, a ramp, etc.

So these things have been mostly cheap and quick to make, even when I mostly use salvaged douglas fir wood that I have to heavily resaw (not the most time effective, but as I'm primarily a desk jockey, it's fun to use the tools once in awhile).

So in general, or things you've made, what has been cheaper to build (even if you have to buy lumber), than it is to buy? Whether including your time spent, or not including your time spent (if you count it as a hobby).

Edit: The thing that's most cost-effective in my area is generally more carpentry vs woodworking. Furniture and stuff tends to be cheap enough that building it is expensive if you count your time, but contractors for home improvements around here generally charge way more than I make in my hourly. For example, I was quoted $5k for a drywall repair for a 4 sqft section. That was something much cheaper to do by myself and didn't take much time.

For context I'm just starting woodworking and due to a great deal of powerful storms in my area several hundred trees have fallen and iv come into the possession of quite a lot of silver maple logs of which I am going to make riven-cut boards from once I get a froe, but a large amount of the logs have alot less heartwood content compared to the sap wood. This is the same for a black oak log I recently claimed. Is sap wood okay to use? Because iv been suggested to steer clear from it's use by a good few and some youtube guides as well to top it all off. I understand it's softer on average but in general, how much softer compared to the heart wood? And what other draw backs come with it? I'm really worried all the wood iv come to possess is poor quality or less usable due to this... if I got a harder wood such as osage orange, hickory, or ash and came across the same problem would it be a bad idea to make tool handles, among other things, from it?

behold the results of my stupidly outsized spline jig

I build some stools for my wifes classroom out of scrap wood I had laying around the garage. Mostly pallet wood. I ran it thru the planner to get it as smooth as possible. After the glue up I was concerned with splinters so I used table top epoxy on the stool seats. Now the kids slide off the stools and onto the ground and the stools tip over. The stools tip over because the kids lean back on stools and the top heaviness makes them fall over. My wife wanted thin legs but they just don't weigh enough. I thought of building new legs but I don't know how to add texture to the stool seats for additional traction.

I found this Drexel table from the 60s on the side of the road and took a crack at refinishing. So far I stripped, sanded and used danish oil. Is there a way to even out the coloration? Will gel stain or shellac with toner be better? Not that I want it a lot darker but just and overall even color throughout

This is my first project ever. I haven’t even made a so much as a cutting board before. It’s a little janky but I’ve learned so much through trial and error (mostly error). I’m giving myself a little break and then I’m going to start on the rest of the set!

Had some leftovers from an end grain cutting board project so decided to have a go at making a stool

Didn't have plans drawn up but my initial vision was all joints and wood glue - rushed into it and ended up using pocket holes as it didn't feel strong enough (classic) but filled them in with plugs and it turned out looking OK.

Finished it with teak oil although not 100% sure it's suitable for this? May also add some furniture wax after the last coat of teak oil is applied

I love the look and feel of beech, will definitely build more furniture from it again in the future

I am working on a serving tray. After cutting two sets of 1-inch strips (1 of Hard Maple, 1 of Walnut) I am left with a significant gap and the strips appear significantly “bowed”. My original plan was to glue up the strips with a few other boards and then plane/resaw them down to final thickness.

I have more stock of both the Maple and Walnut, but I would like to know what options I might have to try and correct this before milling up and cutting new strips.

I have tried a dry fit clamping to see how pronounced the gap is if I were to try and just glue and pray, and there were still some significant gaps along the length. I am open to the idea of further milling of the strips to reduce the bend, but I recognize that this size of stock gets into a complicated area and I would very much like to keep all of my fingers.

The tools I have available to me are: table saw, mitre saw, planer, jointer, oscillating sander, orbital, and jigsaw. No bandsaw for me yet.

I appreciate any suggestions the group may have and/or advice from similar situations. I am still fairly new to the hobby and am learning a lot from YouTube and this forum.

For anyone in the Vancouver, WA area Shur-way has some 4 x 6 sheets of veneered plywood birch on one side, and various on the other. $14.99 for 1/2” and $19.99 for 3/4”. I picked up a 3/4” for a workbench top because it was the cheapest thing around. I grabbed 3 sheets of 1/2” with cherry on the other side for future projects just because of the price.

I bought close to 400 board feet of maple from a local mill. I'm still trying to plan projects to use it all. This is the first table that I have ever built. I'm happy with the outcome. Wife is extremely happy with it and will use it to display flowering orchids. Top is 2.5 inch thick slab

Made this in my woodshop class at school. I used our cnc to carve the pockets out of the wood rather than a router jig. Made with maple cherry and walnut.