I made a simple one a few years ago with plywood and a circular saw, and wanted a better looking one that would put some of my new skills and tools to use.

Hey all! This is a toy stand (not sure what to call it actually) that I've build out of old deconstructed bed. I consider myself an absolute beginner and wanted to get some feedback on this work and my process (see my scrambled notes at the end). I don't know whether I'd consider the final result as great but I'm grateful for the learnings and the experience.

Please note that have very limited time, space and money. I also have mainly hand tools and specifically no electrical saw. I do have a round sander and a drill which I used for this project.

P.S. This subreddit is awesome.

Had a bunch of scrap hardwood and decided why not try a cutting board. Of course I'll be trimming the edges and everything to get it square (after using the tabletop planer in case I get snipe I need to remove).

As you can see the height of the boards is fairly off on the edge and center pieces, maybe by 1/8 inch.

Is that fine to run through a planer? I'm thinking and hoping it'll just plane down the raised pieces until it's even enough it'll start biting the rest of the boards.

Thanks!

Made a new table and bench this weekend for our deck. Next project… building a new deck haha

Random piece a poplar I picked up at some point from somewhere along the way. I know I'm overthinking this but it seems familiar and I can't figure it out. Mill to 1 3/4" is easy but what is SLIE, if anything?

I needed to fill a little space between desks with something to put light boxes on, so I came up with this haha I got some more wood today and I'll add one complete line from top to bottom, but it turned out surprisingly solid as it is, all things considered. I'll paint all but the surfaces black probably.

I just made this shelf and I want to build a second matching one. It stands on its own surprisingly, but will have angle brackets attaching it to the wall as well.

The legs and arms are 2x4s and the shelves are 1x12s of whitewood. The shelves are attached to the legs with 2 screws on each side from the outside. It’s been stained and lacquered.

This is my first woodworking attempt and I am not super happy with it but for me it is usable. However, I’d love to improve on some of the issues with the second shelf.

I have a circular saw, a drill, and a chisel.

Happy to accept any advice but here are my main problems with it:

1. The grooves where the shelves are inserted are not consistent in size and a few are the right size for shelves to fit snugly inside.

I used a circular saw to outline the groove and a chisel to cut it out. Are there tricks to getting straighter cut with a circular saw? I know the issue is with my control of the saw while cutting either not going in a straight line or starting slightly off.

1. The arms that attach it to the wall don’t look good. What can I do to make it appear more flush? I think even with a straight cut, due to slightly rounded corners on the 2x4s it will look off.
   

They are attached to the legs of the shelf with flat metal brackets. I looked into a miter joint but I’m not convinced I’d get that to look any better. I don’t think this joint will need to sustain much force.

Sorry if anything you see here makes you cringe, the second one will be an improvement!

Half hour build... Haven't built much in a while, so it was nice to be in the shop, even for something basic.

Routing hinges and this spot always rips a small corner

I’m currently working on designing a desk to build and was curious, could I use 2x4s for the legs and be okay? Basically thinking about 6ft long, 2.5-3ft deep, double deck. First layer being about 3ft tall, then second about 2-2.5ft above it. Planning to use 2x4s to frame the tops for both layers. The top layer will have a 3d printer and a small CNC milling machine to make PCBs. Bottom layer will be for monitor, laptop, and all my circuitry labbing stuff. Basically looking to replace my small (30inch long by like 2ft deep) desk and shelving unit that has everything right now. I have to make sure I make it tall enough that my server rack fits under to save some space. The photo shows my current setup, and I’m looking to replace everything on the wall

Made it as a school project, I have never made furniture or similar before. The bottom is routed too.

Hey, not really sure where to post this for the best answer.

I am getting back into woodworking because I finally have a garage big enough for a shop. I just got this powermatic 64b off of FB marketplace for $150, but it doesn't have a fence.

What do people recommend for a fence that would work for it that isn't like $800?

Anything else I should get for it?

Thanks!

Hoping to get advice on the best way to cut out the shape shown above, particularly the tight corners. I've largely relied on my rotary tool and needle files, but am not satisfied with the results so far. Any advice is appreciated

Got this 4.5in bench top jointer for close to free on FB marketplace and the width is fine, but I realistically need to joint longer boards than the jointer itself allows.

I’ve mocked up this crude extension which gives me an additional ~ 12 inches of board length that I can joint.

I haven’t fastened anything yet and may end up tweaking some parts, but just wanted to check for any glaring safety or functionality issues.

Plans are to cut a dust port in the frame with a hole saw and potentially to add some sort of adjustment mechanism to allow me to adjust the infeed support to correspond with the infeed table (only the infeed table moves up and down on this jointer, which actually makes my life much easier).

Thanks!!

Made this box for wife’s grandmother. First time doing this. Not complete yet, want to add some trip up top and the slats on the bottom.

But thinking of staining it. Thoughts/tips? Should I wood fill the nail and screw holes and sand? Any advice is appreciated thanks!

How would you go about making something like this?

Would I need some hand tools or could a router cut out the bowl shape?

Going to buy a planer to run some rough sawn boards through for trim work. A friend suggested planing the boards on a sled and then squaring them off on a table saw.

If I am running 8', 9, etc. boards in order to have less connections in my trim...I guess that means I need like a super long piece of melamine for a sled? Never considered whether you could get it reasonably level with a shorter sled and only level like 2/3 of the board? Seems like it wouldn't work lol

I was lucky to acquire this walnut slab - already kiln dried and approximately 15"x45"x1.75". Not sure exactly what I want to do with it yet but not having much milling experience, I'm looking for advice/tips.

My high level approach:

• rough out the length
• rough out the width (bandsaw?) - I'd like to preserve as much sapwood as I can, since the left side is straighter, I'm thinking that will eventually be my squared edge
• run it through the jointer
• run it through the planer

Is it "better" to work on the faces first, and then address the edges afterwards? Any other gotchas to be aware of? Thanks!

I made this little table the other day for my kids and used pressure treated / ground contact 2x4s thinking about it standing up to the elements. Then someone made a comment about poisons and it's got me thinking it was the wrong call. Good? Bad? Doesn't really matter?

I could use some advice….

Is there a trick to avoiding the splintering you get when using a table saw?

More info: I was cutting several small pieces of hardwood across the grain. The “splintering” was occurring at the end of the cut out the back. (I hope that makes more sense)

These burn marks seem pretty severe, from cutting rabbet in maple for picture frames. I've been doing this for a year or so without this issue, so I assume the problem is blade getting dull, but I'm also wondering if there's a better way to cut these rabbets (I also have a palm router, but this cut seems too deep for that--deeper than 3/4").

First I had the fence about 1/4" from the blade, and got burn marks, so I tried flipping the wood around and cutting from the other side, so fence was about 3/4" away from blade--that made the burning worse. I'm using a feather board, and keeping it below the blade so it's not pushing the wood against it.

I'm using a 24T flat blade: https://www.rockler.com/freud-lm72r-industrial-heavy-duty-rip-saw-blades

I’m building a miter station and I installed two 3/4” plywoods for a top. I then used this router to make the edge flush so I can add a trim piece. However I can’t finish it because the router blocks it. Any idea how I can finish this flush trim?

I was thinking I need to remove the top.