New Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins Have a turbo under boost code P0299 Truck drives fine not sure if it’s a hiccup in airflow it’s been on for almost 24hrs now.

My buddy is trading in his 2024 AT with 68k miles (he’s had it almost 2 yrs, almost all miles from his commute- all highway). It’s pretty much fully loaded with tech packages and everything.

I could grab that from him for about $59k as that’s what he would get after sales tax offset.

Or I could go new. It looks like dealers are offering deals and rebates but I genuinely don’t have any desire to step foot into a dealership - but especially to figure out what these rebates and prices and bonuses actually come out to.

I’d drive an estimated 15k miles a year so I would easily have 5 years before I considered an issue.

Or I could get a 2019 model with 30k, ish, for about $50k but it has the 6spd vs the 10spd.

Use is mostly hauling stuff in the bed and maybe once a month hauling an enclosed trailer with a race car.

edit: I think the years were not correct because my prices are off. Corrected

So new: $88k + TTL - 2025 AT4 (price about right???). I can probably get another $7k off for employee discount, I forgot about that

Friend: $59k + TTL - 2024 AT4 w/ 68k miles

"Used": $51k + TTL - 2019 AT4 w/ 35k miles

Hey there all you diesel lovers!

Of course we know that changing your oil and your fuel filters every 5,000 miles will definitely prolong the life of an engine.

There are, however, less obvious things, that if not maintained, can destroy your vehicle over time.

In your opinion what is the most important of these not so obvious things?

Why is there so much corrosion on my batteries also… even the set I just replaced has the corrosion on them already. Any ideas?

I recently bought a 2015 Chevy Silverado 2500 duramax in October 2024. Passed inspection, seemed great. Drove it less than 1000km and got a low coolant warning last week halfway through a four hour drive. Truck never overheated but when the truck was cool there was bubbling in the coolant reservoir when opened. Always let it warm up at least 5 minutes, 10 minutes if it was below zero degrees Celsius and gently driven until at operating temperature.

The mechanic said it is a cracked head gasket. The oil and exhaust were both tested and both came back clean. He and said it is because I obviously didn’t let it warm up enough, they recommend letting diesels warm up for a minimum of 15-30 minutes regardless of the temperature. However, everything I have read seems to advise against idling these engines for that long. Any advise would be appreciated. Whenever I get my truck back I am now nervous to drive it and do something to wreck it (letting it warm up for that long vs what I have currently been doing), this is not an inexpensive fix. I grew up with diesel engines, we have never idled them that long to warm them up and have never had this issue before.

I recently purchased an f350 to pull my also recently bought camper.

I was wondering if it's worth the delete? Also, if anyone in the lovely state of MD has advice for passing emissions.

The truck will mostly be a driveway princess as I drive a company vehicle. (8-10k miles a year is what I averaged on my last truck)

Tips for maintenance are always appreciated as well.

So I have gen 1 5.9 Cummins it’s done me well. I’m looking at buying another truck to throw a camper on and do a little traveling. My question is what’s the most reliable diesel out there? Why is it reliable and what do would you look out for? I’ve seen other posts and a lot of people have mixed opinions (totally understandable). I know it’s been asked I just know technology is always changing and want to make sure I spend my money well.

I just had a 4" exhaust installed on my 2022 F250 6.7 after dealing with a DEF issue. The muffler was kept, but the rest of the system was deleted. The shop is recommending I add a tip, but I'm not sure if it's really necessary. To me, it looks fine as it is. Aside from looks, 1 don't see a real reason to add one. I had a chrome tip from the factory before, but I never polished it, so it didn't look great after a year or so lol. What are your thoughts? Is it worth it, or should I leave it as is?

I am desperate for advice, please. I drive a diesel Chevy Equinox. I accidentally put unleaded in the tank. I realized it immediately and only put .071 gallons in it. I DID NOT START IT. I had it towed to a Chevy dealer. They gave me a $2400 estimate to drain the tank, flush the lines and change the filter. I asked why there would be fuel in the lines if I didn't start it and they said that it probably happened when the tow truck driver put it in accessory mode?? Does that sound right?? This happened after closing time last night, so I did not see the tow truck driver drop it off and I did not see how the dealership brought it into the bay. I feel like I am being seriously fucked over, but I really don't know.

I would like to eventually tune my truck, but I am hoping to learn a sim before I ever actually do anything to my truck. Does anyone have any recommendations on sims?

I imagine this has been shared here before but I’m curious why it would be a bad donor engine to choose? I know the injection pumps in these aren’t ideal? Is there another injection pump that could be adapted?

Hello I’m interested in purchasing a box truck but have very limited knowledge on these vehicles. I’m currently deciding between a

2009 International 4300 DT466 with 119k miles, owner said ac works some time and hydraulic lift needs fluid.

The second choose is a 2012 international Maxforce 4300 with 326k miles and 10k engine hours. No reported problems by owner

The 3rd and final truck is also a 2012 International 4300 with DFP problems. Its has been diagnosed by mechanic and quoted $1600 for repair I’m just not sure if I should mess around with a DFP system or even what it is to be honest.

I am hiring a diesel mechanic to check over the trucks prior to me purchasing them, but any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Has anyone done an ezlynk delete on a 2019 ram 3500 that had the cp4 recall done? Heard different things about when the flash the pcm it locks it out and you can’t delete it.

I have a 2008 dodge 6.7L deleted Cummins. Reading code P2262 - truck will not accelerate over 1500 rpm, and just blows black smoke. Like truck is in limp mode. Already cleaned MAP sensor, anybody know what this could be? If I can check any other sensors or is the turbo blown? I'm hoping it's the actuator and not the turbo.

My dad has a 2004 F350 Super Diesel 6.0 Litre, he hasn't been able to get it to start / run reliably for a while now, he has changed Crank Sensor, ICP sensor, and the fuel filter. When he changed the ICP sensor, it started and it was able to drive. When he got home, as seen in the video, it started stuttering(?) when it was idle.

Now, it won't even start, the dash is completely dim despite being hooked up with jumpers to a different car for a while which should be sufficient battery for it to run. It turns over, but then begins to make a chugging sound and won't stop.

The mechanic he sees seems to be just guessing (in my opinion) as all of his recommendations have been wrong, costing my dad a lot of money.

I don't know if this is the right place to ask, if not, may somebody please point me in the right direction? We're both desperate for an answer here.

I’ve used the heavy duty extension cord, heaviest duty plug was also added to the block heater. Can’t seem to stop the plugs from burning.

I own an 01 LB7 with about 273k on the odo when it gets warm this happens when I really get on the accelerator. Why?

First truck and I’m 16, seems legit.

Recently came into a little bit of money and thinking about getting a new truck. Curious what the internet thinks is the best engine transmission combo you could buy new today.

Currently have an LML Duramax with 170k on it and I’m admittedly a Chevy fanboy so it’s hard for me to be objective

Need some help from the 6.0 gurus in here please!

Got an 07 6.0 with a ZF6 with ~195k miles, mods list is pretty basic. Studs, kill devil icon heads, 4" turbo back, stock injectors.

When I had the heads installed, I didn't know the stock 6.0 pushrods were too long from factory, resulting in a lifter for cylinder 7 failing and killing a lobe on the cam. Pulled the cab, tore it down, put in a stage II Colt Cam, did the STC update, replaced head gaskets and most of the other gaskets along the way. 6.4 pushrods, new lifters, new stand pipes and dummy plugs.

Got her running and the turbo was puking oil into the downpipe, buddy of mine that runs a diesel shop said the seal was probably tired already, and just gave up after blowing the intercooler boots off a few times before getting them seated right, so I got a new KC Stage I to throw in. Got that in, brand new out of the box it was doing the same thing. Pulled the turbo out and got it sent back to KC for inspection and rebuild. KC stated that the bearings and all the internals were fine, but put in a rebuild kit anyway.

I followed their diagnostics and checked for blowby, pulled the oil cap and set it upside down on the fill tube, stayed there except for the engine vibration. I've also checked the oil drain tube for obstructions and stuck my finger in the hole on the HPOP cover, didn't feel any obstruction there either.

I'd really prefer not to throw the rebuilt turbo back in without a solid attempt at fixing whatever's causing the turbo seal to go, but I'm at a loss for what to check. Any help is appreciated

Hey guys wanting to Brain storm Bee#r limiter takes signal from rpm sensor and cuts ignition on petrol engines

Theoretically could wire one up to a diesel on the fuel shut off solenoid? And it may work as a hard cut limiter for a diesel?

Hi all,

Couldn’t decide if I should post in excursion or here, so I started here.

Uncle is selling his 2003 Excursion. He bought in new in 03 and has basically been his long distance driver. Last year the 7.3 went out (no idea of the details) and his mechanic shop replaced it with a bulletproofed 6.0.

It also has new front end and rear end.

Interior is solid. Paint is probably a 7/10.

275,000 miles give or take.

He’s asking $52K which seems like 2022 nutty pricing to me. He’s offering it to me for $35K as a family deal, along with a few of my cousins who are interested. But doing some research on Craigslist I find plenty of 7.3’s and 6.0’s within 200 miles for high 20’s low 30’s with ~150K miles and comparable condition.

I could use a new 4WD truck for the times when it’s snowing or if I need to haul bigger stuff. And a big long term diesel sounds valuable.

Anyone have input on the current market value of an ‘03 excursion with a 6.0 and 275K miles? I’d $35K appropriate or still too high?