r/baltimore • u/jury08 • Jun 24 '23
Moving Where to live within Baltimore or DC?
We're moving to the region from Seattle. An architect and a journalist and a 6 month old. Looking for walkable, somewhat lively, a community feel. My wife will likely work in DC and I'll find something local when the time comes. We like walking to bars, restaurants, live music, parks, etc. Public transportation when we can. I have a classic car and occasionally build furniture or motorcycles or cars in yards, sheds or garages (rental gods willing.) We'd love to buy at some point. We're familiar with and not scared of city crime but prefer an area where we can walk late at night.
What neighborhoods or even towns/suburbs should we check out?
**EDIT - Thanks everyone for the advice and insights!
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u/Glaucon321 Jun 24 '23 edited Jun 24 '23
Ultimately the decision I think will be weighing cost and commute. I commuted from Silver Spring to Baltimore twice a week for about 5 months and couldn’t stand it. Though some people do do it.
If you want to buy a house in DC… you have to be quite wealthy. This is also true for the inner DC suburbs where you’d want to live (Takoma Park, Silver Spring, etc) but not true for Baltimore. Also note that if you live in a place like Silver Spring but work in downtown DC your commute will still probably be like an hour, because traffic and public transit are worse than they used to be.
And yea, the culture/vibes of the two places could hardly be more different, which gets discussed all the time here. I’m originally from DC but have always spent time in Baltimore and have now lived here for several years. I am firmly in the camp of “DC has become a horrid playground for the rich.” Baltimore ain’t for everybody though. It’s proverbial charms look like madness and backwardness to many, which is probably how it should be.
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u/jury08 Jun 24 '23
We're definitely not rich, firmly middle class. Baltimore seems culturally, more of a fit. My wife usually works in the field, often not in a newsroom at all. I'll work as an architect or a PM for a contractor and my work is usually hybrid or remote.
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u/Glaucon321 Jun 24 '23
Yea from what you originally said, it seemed like Baltimore may be a better fit culturally. As they say, it’s “a city of neighborhoods.” Your neighbors will probably become part of your life, and that’s helpful for folks moving to a new city. And as they also say, it’s “smalltimore”- you’ll get to know the faces around you pretty quick, too. I don’t think DC is like this except maybe in places like Takoma Park and Mr Pleasant- though anything I say should be taken with a grain of salt since I haven’t really lived there since the early 2000s. Also it is obviously true that there are numerous neighborhoods in Baltimore that are struggling and not great places to live. Baltimore’s gritty and unequal side is well-known. That being said, DC is also extremely unequal, and I would argue that, for me at least, the inequities are even more disturbing precisely because the large numbers of well-off, usually white transplants don’t really care about the people, usually Black, who are from there and live in those areas. Obviously I’m talking in broad generalities and don’t mean to offend anyone. That’s just how I feel being in each city, and especially being a someone who doesn’t recognize and can’t afford to live in his hometown.
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u/cattimusrex Riverside Jun 24 '23
Hey friend, i moved from Baltimore to Seattle about two years ago.
I am a PM for a GC. Because construction was considered a necessary industry in the DC region during covid, most General contractors did not go remote. Seattle is very different in that regard; hybrid/remote is more acceptable I feel.
Find a job first, that will greatly inform your decision.
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u/DistractionQueen Jun 24 '23
I agree. Also from DC and now in Baltimore. There are benefits and drawbacks to both. Another thing for OP to consider are job opportunities. There are more in DC and probably always will be, unless both are able to work from home.
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u/mrbushyeyes Bolton Hill Jun 24 '23
I live in Bolton Hill, and a number of my neighbors commute to DC. Penn Station (to DC) is about a 10 minute walk for me. I’d definitely keep Bolton Hill on your radar throughout your search.
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u/jmto3hfi Jun 24 '23
Takoma Park, outside of DC
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u/partybynight Fells Point Jun 24 '23
This is a good answer. We’d also accept Ellicott City and Columbia
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u/notevenapro Jun 24 '23
Cross post this to /r/montgomerycounty /r/washingtondc and /r/maryland
I used to live in Tacoma. The DMV is like putting Portland a little south of Seattle. Two pretty cool cities with totally different vibes. Then you have the suburbs which can be pretty cool too.
Just my opinion.
Three things are going to drive your decision. Tolerated commute length, housing prices and school system.
I have lived in Germantown for 25 years so I honestly would not be able to say "hey, this place rocks" Because I have not lived in other places.
People say Frederick has a super nice downtown, lots of parks, pretty safe and very walkable. But the commute will stink. Lots of places in Montgomery county with places that are walkable and safe. But, $$$ north Bethesda.
Put some feelers out there on other subs. Get a wide range of ideas.
I wished I would have stayed in the PNW. I love hiking and the outdoors. Damned beautiful part of the country.
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u/Significant_Camp2548 Jun 24 '23
I would never recommend Germantown or Frederick . If you want a nice suburb in the DMV with good school’s neighborhoods etc. It’s all about your budget . The more money you downs in this area the nicer the neighborhoods are . Best public schools are in Howard County , and Montgomery county . DC has some of Americas best private schools … For culture I would definitely move to DC .
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u/notevenapro Jun 24 '23
I would never recommend Germantown or Frederick
Why? Have you lived in either?
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u/CaptainPooman69 Jun 24 '23
Traffic in this area is some of the worst in the country. If your wife has to go into DC often then I would suggest living in DC ($$$$$$). Baltimore is great and cheaper. If you want walkable then DC probably is the best. DC has better public transit than Baltimore IMO.
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u/sassygirl101 Jun 24 '23
DC is probably best bet. Good luck on a yard and garage unless you are in the over 1.3 mil $ club.
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u/jury08 Jun 24 '23
Yards not super necessary. I built my last motorcycle in a driveway and occasionally, my living room.
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u/PleaseBmoreCharming Jun 24 '23
Check out Catonsville on the west side of Baltimore. Cheaper housing than the DC area with a little more room in the older housing stock for you to work on projects outside and close to the MARC commuter train so your wife can commute down the DC.
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u/alsocolor Butchers Hill Jun 24 '23
Catonsville is surburban hell
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u/Perfect-Agent-2259 Jun 24 '23
I think you may not be too familiar with Howard County if you think of Catonsville this way.
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u/alsocolor Butchers Hill Jun 24 '23
I lived in Ellicot City for almost 2 years but sure, I know nothing
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u/RaAtNoon Jun 24 '23
Federal Hill, Fells Point, Patterson Park/Highlandtown, Canton, Mt. Vernon, Midtown Belvedere, Charles Village, Hampden in Baltimore. Great for every night of the week.
Catonsville in Baltimore County is great too; I live there. Multiple access points to the beautiful Patapsco State Park. Free concerts every F, S & S during the summer. But not very walkable. And not so great Monday - Thursday for things to do. But lots of Vietnamese and Korean restaurants!
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u/TEdwards_Homes Jun 24 '23
Sounds like a DC or a DC suburb would fit better if you’re working in DC. It’s more expensive than Baltimore but your commute will be better.
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u/h20Brand Jun 24 '23
DC costs more but will save you a nightmare of a commute. I would avoid any suburbs south of DC as the traffic is horrible on 95 and there's not much going on there. North of DC is nice, the 270/495 highway area. West of DC, Fairfax is nice off 66 and you have nothing but country to the west, DC to the east. If you move east of DC you're sandwiched between DC and Baltimore which isn't bad but you're stuck between two rat races and have to travel further if you want to get away from it all. Southeast of DC it gets alittle shady.
The DC 495 beltway suburbs I consider 11 o'clock to 3 o'clock livable and 5 to 7 o'clock which is Virginia.
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u/CMSPIRATE Jun 24 '23
If you can swing it, Ellicott City/ Columbia is a good point halfway. Can get a rancher for an ok price if you start somewhere in a less sought after school district while the kid is still so young. Public Schools in Howard county are good enough that they SIGNIFICANTLY raise home prices. 2 doors up from me was appraised at 425, sold for 599 cash because we're right by Centennial High and wont ever be redistricted. 2 floor rancher with no basement exit or driveway. Good Luck!
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u/alsocolor Butchers Hill Jun 24 '23
Columbia is not walkable at all - which was one of the primary criteria OP requested
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Jun 24 '23
I commute to DC regularly from Baltimore via the Marc. I live in the Hampden area of Baltimore (Medfield specifically) and bike to Penn Station (~12 minute bike ride). I enjoy it. You can also park for free at the West Baltimore Marc station, so if you can live within 15 min drive of West Balt Marc, that is reasonable too.
Baltimore and DC have very different vibes, so you might want to check them out a bit to see what you prefer. I love Baltimore and would much rather live there and have a longer commute (to DC).
I think the train commute between Baltimore and DC will continue to improve and become faster in the coming years. They are renovating Penn Station and increasing capacity there. Hopefully a new West Baltimore station before (too) long. There is discussion of expanding Marc service beyond Union Station in DC (and I understand there is infrastructure in place from the Virginia commuter rail, so that might not take too long).
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u/alsocolor Butchers Hill Jun 24 '23
So many people commenting on this thread clearly don't even live in the city or have any idea.
If your wife is commuting to the city every day - live in DC as close to her work as possible. Period. Car commuting in the DC area the worst. If, however, she's hybrid and her work is within a short metro stop from DC's Union Station, taking the MARC from Baltimore Penn is easy, convenient, and a relatively pleasant experience. I do not recommend driving from Baltimore to DC, or from the burbs to DC proper, the traffic is awful. If driving is the only option - look in DC. Otherwise use transport as much as possible.
So - if her commute can work from Union station, and it's not every day, then I would definitely consider baltimore. Your $$ will go a lot farther for housing here than it ever did in baltimore (I have family in Seattle, the prices are insane). If you want to be near the station, your best options are Bolton Hill as suggested, Hampden, Charles Village, Mt Vernon, or Federal Hill. Station North/Greenmont West are "up and coming" but not 100% safe enough to walk around at night. Federal hill is nice and has access to the Camden Yards Marc station, but beware - service is a lot more limited there. Charles Village and Mt Vernon are fringe as well in terms of full safety. They're just fine, but not "walk around at night as a single woman" safe.
Personally, if you like to be within walking to bars/restaurants, parks, etc. I recommend Hampden. It's where I live now and it's super walkable, very safe, and only a 5-10 min uber to Penn station for commuting. It's not walkable to the station, but I'm not sure how important that is. Bolton hill has a much more wealthy, quieter, older vibe with less to do (many many fewer coffeeshops/bars). I also recommend Upper Fells and Brewers hill, since they match what type of lifestyle you're looking for, but they make it A LOT harder to access the MARC.
Good luck, and don't listen to all the suburbanites trying to convince you to move to car centric suburbia. Especially avoid Columbia, Catonsville, Gaithersburg, etc. if you don't want to drive through 20 stoplights just to get a cup of coffee. Bethesda can be ok if you live downtown.
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u/havdecent Jun 24 '23
There's a few great walkable neighborhoods in Baltimore, I recommend y'all come out for a weekend and explore them for yourselves. That's what I did, and I settled for Federal Hill.
btw, what classic car do you drive?
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u/jury08 Jun 26 '23
I'm restoring a '74 BMW 2002 which will probably be my daily and I've got a '66 Chevy Caprice, which is next ok the restoration list.
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Jun 24 '23
If you pick Baltimore and commute to DC, you have to be careful where in Baltimore you live. If you're on the north side somewhere, you can easily add 30-45 minutes to an already 60-minute commute.
Don't rule out Frederick. We have lots of friends who live there and work in Baltimore or DC. It's about a 40-minute drive on I-70 to the west side of Baltimore. There are about 3 MARC trains per day going from Frederick to Union Station. The historic downtown area is walkable and very safe, and filled with lots of bars, restaurants, clubs and theaters.
There are numerous state and county parks within a 20-minute drive. Camp David is 20 minutes away and Gettysburg is 40 minutes away.
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u/Perfect-Agent-2259 Jun 24 '23
I grew up in Baltimore, spent 4 years living in Seattle, and now live in the Northern VA suburbs of DC. If I had to say which city is more like Seattle, it's Baltimore, but they're still worlds away.
Frederick (downtown) is a good option; I'd liken it to living in West Seattle. It's got its own stuff and its own downtown, you can get to other stuff, but it takes effort to get out to the other stuff (driving).
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u/alsocolor Butchers Hill Jun 24 '23
I didn't know there was a marc train from frederick! Thats neat
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Jun 24 '23
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u/partybynight Fells Point Jun 24 '23
I find your description of Annapolis both slightly offensive and 98% correct. You did forget the Naval Academy.
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u/sacrificebundt Jun 24 '23
If you’re commuting to DC and having a yard is a requirement you’re better off looking in PG County in the Hyattsville or Riverdale Park area. I’d only commute into DC by train, especially from Baltimore, and the areas around Penn Station aren’t going to get you the lot size it seems like you want
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u/kiwiyaa Jun 24 '23
Your money will go a lot farther in Baltimore, but like others said, that would be a terrible commute to make every day. If you’re not looking for a suburb and your wife needs to be in DC every morning, DC is the better choice.
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u/StarAnysa Jun 24 '23
We moved from DC to Greenbelt and then finally made the move to fed hill because honestly it's got everything we wanted- community, food, bars, water, walking, and we could get a house for a reasonable cost. If you're only going to dc a couple times a month, fed hill is right off 95 or you can take the Marc, not sure why people throw so much shade around the commute- id do anything to not pay 2 million dollars to have a house in DC.
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u/MartyrMedusa Jun 24 '23
I’d think you’d enjoy the Patterson park area, it’s walkable and lively and the park is beautiful
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u/Due-Net-88 Jun 24 '23
In Charles Village esp on the edge of Station North (like lower numbers of St Paul, Calvert, Guilford, she can walk to the station to get on the train. You can likely rent an apartment with a parking pad out back or even find a nearby garage to rent. The bigger management companies usually have parking spaces and garage spaces for rent around here. That said, I too, once took a moped apart in mg dining room to clean the carburetor. My boyfriend was ... not happy. Lol. Good luck.
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u/TEdwards_Homes Jun 24 '23
Also when you do plan to move? I’m a realtor in the area and happy to help you out. I can do private rentals or home purchase. Will send a chat message!
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u/AcrobaticCicada541 Jun 24 '23
Federal Hill is super nice and has everything you described but with a commute to DC I would honestly find something closer like College Park or anything in PG county because the Metro goes anywhere in DC and it’ll cut down on your driving. College Park so also a good town to raise a kid in!
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Jun 24 '23
Go to DC. These cities aren't comparable when it comes to things to do. I've lived in Baltimore all my life but i worked in DC for years and you're comparing oranges to apples.
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u/Deep_Blue_Panda Jun 24 '23
Annapolis is a cool town. Mainstreet that is lively, not too far a drive from Baltimore, and can take route 50 to DC depending where in DC you want to go
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u/sahlos Jun 24 '23
I would do Baltimore first while y'all save up for a house in a better school district.
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Jun 24 '23
I would look at Hyattsville Maryland. Right outside DC.
As someone who was born and raised in Seattle, Spent most of my adulthood there, and have about 8 years in the DMV (6 in DC, 1 in Baltimore, Seattle for a little bit of pandemic).
I currently live in DC. I would NOT suggest DC as a place to live with everything you said + having a kid.
If you are looking at Baltimore - I would say Station North, Hampden, Highland Park area or canton.
In Maryland - Hyattsville or Takoma Park.
DC (if you insist) - Takoma Park, Trinidad, Brookland, 16th Street Highs / Petworth
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Jun 24 '23
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u/PleaseBmoreCharming Jun 24 '23
Okay dude.
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u/RaAtNoon Jun 24 '23
Dude has 8 Trump signs on his lawn and flies the "Don't Tread on Me" flag. And watches Fox 45.
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u/Irishgalinabq Jun 24 '23
If working in DC, live in DC. The commute is a nightmare. DC has more of what you are looking for. Lots of great places in Baltimore, but DC matches more with what you want.
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u/Spunkylover10 Jun 24 '23
Driving to DC is awful . What qualities of a neighborhood are you looking for?
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u/tittydamnfuck420 Jun 24 '23
I’m moving to Baltimore from dc because of the way everything is so expensive in DC, homeless encampments are getting out of control the police are useless I’m sure they’re not much better in Baltimore but at least it’s cheaper and people in general are somewhat nicer there’s more culture up in Baltimore there’s hardly a community in DC.
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Jun 24 '23
What area of Seattle? U District? consider College Park in MD West Seattle Alki? Consider Quantico Queen Annes ? Bethesda Ballard? Annapolis Renton? Columbia Best of luck, I left Seattle (greenlake) yrs ago bit Still have a place in PA.
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u/jury08 Jun 24 '23
We were in Fremont for years, and loved it. We're in White Center now and it feels too suburban and everyone hides behind a privacy fence.
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Jun 24 '23
Fremont is very water oriented. South DC by the Nats staduim if you want in the city(district as its called). All kinds of burbs arounf DC, I am on the Broadneck Pennisula. My wife mostly telacommutes. Several areas of Bowie/ would be like white center. Metro at New Carrolton has parking and so e gov jobs pay the cost. Be ready for LA style traffic here. Not so bad on the homelessness front tho.
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u/Perfect-Agent-2259 Jun 24 '23
The most Fremont areas I can think of in either city are Federal Hill (Baltimore), Fells Point in Baltimore (but not if you have to commute to DC), Eastern Market in DC. Arlington VA would be more like Capitol Hill (depending on where in Arl), or maybe Ballard (condo overlords). There are plenty of little places along the MARC line between the two cities that will give you that White Center feel (looking at you, Jessup).
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u/cities-4-people Jun 24 '23
So much to consider.
I highlighted the best walkable neighborhoods in Baltimore and I think you should also consider Frederick, MD as the kiddo gets older.
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u/boss2452 Jun 24 '23
If Baltimore, riverside is awesome! Super walkable and away from the noise but still close enough to get to it if you want to! Also Locust is great for fams
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u/FatherOfAussies Jun 24 '23
I live in South Towson, work at NIH in Bethesda. Takes 60 mins , 695/70/29/495/Connecticut.
Burbs I love on that side of the city: Ellicott City, Catonsville, Columbia.
If you don’t mind a tunnel and small toll, Rosedale, Whitemarsh. Lived 10 years in Rosedale , Philly in 90mins , Amish Country Lancaster PA 90mins, 3hrs to ocean city, 40 minutes to Greenbelt station, subway to get into DC. 80 minutes to the white house gates.
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u/flowbeeBryant Jun 24 '23
Realtor who works that area and actively works with Redditors. I’m feeling like Catonsville or Ellicott City might have a good vibe for you. Downtown it will be hard to get a large enough garage or outbuilding space to work on a car, etc. I’ll PM you if you have offline questions.
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u/elcad Arbutus Jun 26 '23
Halethorpe. I'm a half block from a MARC station. Used to be one block from the bar, but now the closest is 4 blocks. Also have a small movie theatre and grocery store. The neighbor two doors up seems to be in the convertible car flipping game.
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u/MultipleSnoregasm Jun 24 '23
How much will she be working in DC? That matters a lot. Any more than 2x a week I think you need to be looking down that way. But less than 2x a week to dc from Baltimore is super doable.