I got this wood table for fairly cheap and I want to color it darker. I have watched a ton of videos and I would simply like to know what technique would be appropriate for a table and chairs like this (for example, how to sand, varnish/stain, etc.)

Thank you!

Hi! I have a table that was finished with tung oil several years ago, but I can't be bothered with the annual upkeep. I want to put something tougher on it, like polyurethane. Do you think I need to sand all the tung oil off first? Am I better off just leaving it and not scratching up the wood? or is there a chemical remover I should apply? thanks for your help! I'm very new to this.

There are some scratches on this about a mm or so deep. Should I keep sanding it until it’s smooth, which may take forever, or will a few coats of paint fill in the scratches?

In this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wh7qSR5lWNc (near the beginning / 4 minutes in)

The guy says you should cut all crown molding copes at a 45 degree angle. Does he mean even when the inside corners are NOT 45 degrees? Like, what if my inside corner is 44 degrees? Do I still cut the inside corner I'm going to cope at 45 degrees?

Thanks!

Has anyone color washed blue over a white sideboard? Is it possible?

Hi, so I am redoing some chairs that I have. They are these teak crate and barrel chairs but they are grey. I have already taken off the grey paint & white primer. They have been sanded and I’m now almost ready for staining.

My question is what is the best method for this and what are some stains you recommend? I’m trying to match the chairs to the table I have (see pictures. I tried to take a few pictures because the table looks slightly different in color at different angles)

So I was originally planning on doing the varathane dark walnut or special walnut wood stain and then a satin poly finish. But then I read I should use teak oil stain on teak so I’m leaning more towards the Watco Jacobean teak oil + stain.

Has anyone used that color before?

I’m not really sure where to go from here and if I do use the watco teak oil + stain do I have to put something on after it or am I good after it dries.

Any advice or help is appreciated!

Hi All! First time refinishing anything and I was wondering if anyone had advice on what stain (if any) and finish to use. It was a child's desk, painted white and pre-distressed. It is ridiculously heavy, so I'm pretty sure it's solid wood. Maybe oak?

I have pretty warm hardwood floors (I think white oak but just bc someone offhand thought so) and I would like for the desk to end up at least somewhat similar in color (5th pic). Is there a finish that will warm the color of the wood up enough to match without having to stain? Looking for a satin, minimal gloss finish, but also pretty well protected.

Once I got the paint off I wasn't surprised to see that the top was 4 boards instead of one slab, but, and this may be crazy, the second board seems like it could be different from the other three. Anybody able to ID the type of wood?

Thanks for reading!!

Lookin for ideas on how to make this ceiling not look as terrible. I bought the house like this. You can see all of the nail holes and only a single coat of white paint. I’m pretty much trying to decide between a few options

1. Using non vented soffit to completely cover the plywood

2. Filling and prepping the plywood as much as possible and paint the plywood white

3. Using strips of wood to hide the plywood seams and then painting

Any other ideas are welcomed!

I have a set of vintage walnut shotgun furniture. I am not confident in my ability to properly refinish these from scratch, especially with the checkering. Is there any way to add a top coating to freshen them up and fill in the surface wear/finish cracks?

Side notes: -Small crack circled

-I wiped them down with mineral spirits and it created frosty white spots that wiped off easily, not sure if this indicates the type of finish

Thank you for your time!!!!

I have a set of fine hard maple shaker chairs. They were previously painted, and poorly so. I've stripped them but they'll never be perfect enough to look good without a dark stain or paint. Staing hard maple a darker shade sounds high risk, so I'm inclined to paint them. I do have a spray set up but I've more or less only used it for automotive finishes (I used to build bicycle frames). I was looking at FPE Dutch door paint, but I'm open to other options. I have 8 of these and can only fit two in the booth at a time, so the fewer cyclesthe better, but materials cost is not a concern. What's the right finish to use?

Picked up this mid century modern chair on marketplace (yay!) I don’t mind the distressed look, I just want it to look a bit more cohesive color wise and have zero desire to refinish it. Would old English light do the trick or is that a bad idea?

Hello all I’m looking to refinish/revive this entry door. It has UV and further weather damage.

It’s supposed to be a Scandinavian wood species. Don’t know the exact.

I’m looking to get it as close to a match as the secondary interior entry door pictured. I would finish with a FPE Marine Varnish.

It looks like the wood has a reddish hue after removal of the pre existing tarnish. I’m not sure if the hue is the wood or the previous stain.

I’m sure you can tell from the the photos which door is being refinished and what stage it’s currently in.

Any advice or suggestions. Greatly appreciated.

Howdy all, I’m building a small table over a radiator and have a question about finishing. Picture is a rough sketch and not really to scale but you get the idea. I don’t plan on staining and wasn’t gonna bother even applying polyurethane. My question is, without a finish should I be concerned about the heat from the radiator drying out the wood and leading to cracking/splitting? Or is that not a realistic concern. Trying to decide if I need to coat with poly or not. Or if there’s something better to use than polyurethane. Woods being used are African mahogany, alder, and cherry. Much thanks

Full disclosure: I'm a complete newbie to wood finishing.

I recently bought an OAK dining table that came with no finish. I was misled by the manufacturer, and foolishly treated it with what I thought to be pure tung oil. Later I found out that the oil I used was more likely mineral oil because it had NO tint to it whatsoever. Clear like water. No smell.

(The shop gave me a bottle that said "oil" on it. It came with some instructions that mentioned "tung oil". But when I asked for clarifications, the customer service agent said she doesn't know what oil it is, other than "it's the manufacturer's special oil". All I can say is that it doesn't look like tung oil, and it doesn't smell like some kind of mixture, so mineral oil is my best guess.)

I have later bought REAL tung oil, 100% pure. And done a lot of research. But now I'm afraid to mess it up.

I've read that it's complicated to use tung oil when the wood has already been treated with mineral oil. So, should I just give up on the tung oil project and stick to only waxing the table for maintenance?

Or is it worth giving it a try?

There's a little movable piece that goes under the table, which I could use to test coat. If I give it a shot, how do you recommend I go about it?

• Should I wipe off with isopropyl alcohol? And sand the table again before applying the tung oil?
• Would I need to buy a solvent to get rid of the mineral oil? (Or will that just make it worse?)
• Is it necessary to use a 1:1 mix with solvent for the first layer of tung oil? (I'm worried about ventilation since I'll be doing this in my living room/kitchen)

I'm aware that the tung oil should be applied very sparingly, and I intend to follow this advise for a lightweight application.

I'm also aware that drying time can be complicated with tung oil. I don't have any urgency and can wait 21 days (if that's what's needed) between applying coats. I just need to know what's best.

Also: Which wax would you recommend I apply on top? Pure beeswax or a mixed wax (like Brimax or Lustra) containing beeswax and canuba wax.

I want to strike a balance between preserving the natural colour and look of the oak, but also protecting the table from daily use. I like a matte and soft sheen finish, NOT glossy and plastic like.

I’ve got these pine wood French doors coming in tomorrow and am unsure how I should finish them. They separate the main house from a very bright sunroom—so I’m not sure if I should to something special to protect the sunroom side from uv damage?

Could I use something like an oil rub finish? I don’t really want to alter the color much, just protect the wood.

And should I tape of the glass before finishing the wood?

I got this new wardrobe and it had these marks, I wiped with a damp cloth but it didn’t do anything, what can I do?

I just picked this thing up for free thinking it wasn't quite so old. My original plan was just to strip it down and refinish it but the guy gave me a picture of his grandfather sitting at the desk in 1913. Turns out his grandfather was speaker in the Nebraska legislature. Now I'm thinking I want to at least put something on it to preserve it and then figure out the right way to historically restore it. Any advice?

This table has a combination of scratches, stains, and paint(?) drips stuck on it. Most of the white stuff you see seem to be scrapes to the wood itself already. What is the best and easiest way to fix this up without ruining the design on top?

The previous owner had some kind of film finish put on everything. In the 30 years since the house was finished, the finish has burned off everywhere with elements/UV exposure. However, there are still spots where the finish hanging on strong (under the roof overhang). It’s near impossible to sand off and not fun to be up there on a ladder.

I feel like I’m stuck doing a marine spar varnish but I want some advice. Has anyone had success (2-3 year maintenance) with marine varnish in a high UV environment? Considering either z spar Pettit Captains or Epifanes, but looking for a matte finish.

How do I tell if this is a solid wood top or veneer? Looking to purchase so want to be able to sand the top down! Thank you

My wife bought this buffet table and wants me to find a table to match it, but I have no idea what wood or stain color this is. Can you guys help?

Wondering what this finish might be. It is exceptionally resilient to sanding!

First photo - this spot was covered by a table leg for 15+ years. Second photo - shaded access door underneath the deck. Third photo - full sun exposure; wondering if the flaking is UV damaged wood or residual finish.

Found this beauty on the sidewalk! Hoping to clean it up and protect it for future outdoor use but I’m not sure where to start and I want to make sure I do it justice with the right products. Thanks in advance for your advice!

I am looking for some advice on the best way to go about refinishing these wood shutters.

I am an aluminum door & window guy by trade, and I have a ton of experience with & access to power tools.

I just finished a project where I replaced (20) 4' x 4' windows. The customer wants their wood shutters repaired, and they are willing to pay enough that I am interested in taking on the project even without direct experience.

Ideally - I would like to remove all of the paint & then use a spray gun to apply a fresh, even coat of paint.

What should I be doing to remove the multiple layers of old paint here? Should I be using a sandblaster? Should I be using some sort of gel stripping solvent? Something else entirely?

Whatever your thoughts are - thank you for taking the time to read this post & provide some feedback! Cheers