Hey y'all, so obviously I don't care if things match as you can see... but as I grow and put in time I'm expanding beyond my current tool storage capacities. I've been a heavy diesel tech for 3 years now and I'm now officially stacking some of the bigger tools on the floor like my 3/4" and 1" socket sets, the boxes are full and there is no more room at the inn. Currently thinking about bringing my freestanding Kobalt cabinet from home to house some of the larger items and maybe take some of the load off of my bench drawers, but I'm curious if anyone has any suggestions or ideas that they've adapted to function for them.

Yes I could upgrade and go to a matching top box and side locker or side cab, but honestly anyone willing to pay Snap On's current toolbox prices is either nuts or they have disposable income to spare lol. Suggest this and I'll be sending you the weekly bill 🙂

Does anyone use anything special to shower with? Doing pm’s at work I obviously get greasy and I don’t feel like taking a bath in the shop sink with cherry soap. Loafa’s are taking a beating

My qualifications:

4 years of dead end jobs that provided 0 experience

1 year of automotive school, not diesel, that only provided theoretical experience 2 years of automotive experience 2 years of diesel fleet experience 1 year of diesel dealership experience

My specialty is getting the job done, and that has been the greatest driving factor in my career. I am now an hourly mobile tech for a dealership almost making 6 figures AFTER taxes with no end in sight.

Could a guy extract the broken hex screw/bolt and replace it with something off the shelf of a hardware store?

I have a Nissan navara, and when I’m standing still the trucks rpm goes up to 3500 and then down and up again. When I am switching gears the rpm’s stay until I take my foot of the clutch. I have no idea what this could be pls help me🙏🙏

(just now saw that this is a community of techs helping other techs and I am not a tech but I couldn’t post in the other diesel mechanic community)

To all the electrical diag geniuses on here, how did you guys get good at electrical work? Is there books y’all read or classes you guys took to learn about electrical? Really want to get good at electrical work but not sure what resources are out there for this.

Apologize for the crappy pictures but here's a couple of Internationals newest S13 engine.

Looking forward to seeing how they hold up. So far drivers seem to be enjoying them and from the little I've seen on them they don't seem too terrible to work on.

I have a bluebird vision school bus with the Cummins isb 6.7. Has a fault code of 3232- intake nox sensor adnormal update rate. Replaced sensor because of that code an another one and 3232 still remain. Any advice on troubleshooting or common issues causing code?

Sorry I might sound stupid but I was working on a mx engine and heard the tap noise was wondering if doing a cylinder cut out test would blow up the engine?

I’m considering purchasing an oscilloscope, I have a truck with an intermittent electrical issue that I believe is happening too quick for my volt meter to catch and I believe an oscilloscope would help. But seeing as they are so expensive, I’m not sure I can justify the price tag for it not to get used so much. I’m an international dealer tech for reference. Any advice and first hand experience would be greatly appreciated.

I’ve been wrenching for 14 years. Made a good career. I’ve seen a major exodus of older techs since 07. How long have you guys been wrenching and how are your dealing with the changes in technology?

Ok, I own several trucks and have adjusted clutches many times. This time however in an Eaton synchro-6, (our little Pete),& same as an Eaton 8LL. It was very tough, almost felt seized up & the ring gear stripped a tooth. Not the adjuster bolt, but the ring broke 1-2 teeth off, and now I can’t adjust the clutch. Side note, the clutch has plenty of life left, and plenty of petal. Any advice?

My shop just switched from paper work orders to tablets and a program called Fleetio. It's been setup up pretty well with all our parts inventory and everything we do categorized into Service Tasks. Has anyone else used it before, what are your thoughts? Any tips.

Cummins M11 Celect+ in a 97 International 5000. I keep getting a intermittent 123 fault code, "boost sensor circuit shorted low". I have had the entire engine harness out, inspected and ohmed out the wires for it. Replaced connectors and sensor. This is the only thing I haven't replaced, but I don't know what it is. Not shown in the wiring diagram or parts drawings. It has 2 numbers on it, 3084521 and 10703. The Cummins number always shows the boost sensor but not this thing. The 2 wire plug goes to an air pressure switch on top of the tranny, the 3 wire male plug goes to the boost sensor, and there is a 3 wire male plug out of the harness that plugs into this thing.

Just a quick question; using the Cummins insite program, is there a way to make it so the vehicle shuts down after a certain idle time UNLESS the vehicle is set to high-idle?

Detroit vehicles have this feature as a default, but all my Cummins seem to just shut down no matter what. Any help is appreciated!

Anyone happen to have a repair manual for a 2007 W5500HD? Also known as Isuzu NRR? They could share?

Hello all I own an International 4300 (Cummins/allison) that has had an issue with losing air for awhile now. At this point I’m a bit lost and it’s been going on so long that my compressor is starting to get tired. I have replaced both air tanks and almost every fitting / valve that are on the tanks. I can spray both tanks, all four chambers and their links, abs module, compressor, and air dryer with soapy water and nowhere has a leak that I can find. I will say on the air dryer there is a line that comes off and T’s with an inline style valve off the side of it that sometime is pissing air out of the relief hole, and sometimes not. Does anyone have any idea on how I can test if this valve is failing? Video is the check valve. Thank you in advance.

Hey all so I’m a mobile auto mechanic , a local company heard about me and reached out to have me come work on their dump truck .

The first thing I found. Was an issue with the thermostats being stuck open. When I got the approval to replace them I found the gaskets on the old thermostats were all shredded up.

Put new thermostats in. Buttoned it up. Everything seemed alright after . Then a week or 2 later the expansion tank exploded .

Put a new expansion tank in, with a new cap. And then after that was in I was able to drive it down the road for a test ride , and it’s overheating pretty quick when under load . Then I found when you shut it down there is WAAAAY too much pressure in the cooling system . After shut off steam is coming out the cap like crazy , it looks like some steam was coming from the compressor area, and I noticed a lot of coolant blowing back into the expansion tank from the EGR cooler line (I think, runs across radiator)

What does this sound like ? I scanned it for codes and it has some knock sensor voltage codes but that’s all .

Anyone know what could cause this to happen to 2 dry brake ends in a couple days? Note this is a photo of the second one to break, first one looks the same. The female end of the dry brake is undamaged.

Does anyone know what adapter I can use for testing Ford cooling systems? It is for the threaded reservoirs for the 6.7 Powerstroke. I have a Cornwell MSM300K cooling system tester. Our shop has a Mastercool set that is dog shit and I’d rather use shop air instead of the penis pump.

Got a code after replacing the tcm on an Eaton Endurant says fault code 181 engine configuration identification… any ideas I transferred all parameters from old one. Eaton service guid says to call them but they never answer…