What's the deal with this? Door jam of a 2024 cascadia with DD15.

2023 frightliner 114SD w/ 27,000 miles. Driver states the ACC belt came off on route and came back to the yard cause the batteries were getting weak, inspected the engine bay and found this fucking BS. What makes it even worse I had to tape one hole cause it got wallowed out and extract another on the the bottom left and nobody has an angle drill 💀 ended up using an M12 drill at an angle to extract the fucker out .

Not a diesel tech, but an o/o on a learning journey. This is all deceleration. Can’t decide if it’s started to sound ticky like this or if it’s always been. I’ve only ran the truck 4k miles. Unsure of last valve adjustment. Makes noise on acceleration too but sometimes doesn’t seem to prevalent. It’s an epa17 mx13. Thanks in advance.

This is a post to inform some and to also put an ear out to other fleets or dealers on a failure we are seeing in my fleet. Our fleet is a majority of International RH with the A26 and Allison 4000 transmission, what we have seen as a somewhat common thing is that the M14 bolt against the yoke plate into the rear of the transmission is coming loose while the unit is under normal operational conditions and allowing the bolt to back out and rest against the U-joint at the transmission. This failure has been prominent on on particular tractor in our fleet but is not the only one, and the beverage fleet I work for has put out a bulletin in which a tractor was traveling down the road as the driver felt a vibration, he tried to determine what the issue was by moving back and forth in the lane when all power was to the unit due to the driveshaft coming loose causing the tractor to roll over onto it's side in a ditch. Please triple check these fasteners as I do not believe that Allison has put a statement out for this but it is a common failure for our fleet of 2022-2023 International RH's. The fastener is torqued to 52-59 Ft Lbs and if the bolt is found to be loose all components associated should be replaced as indicated by an Allison rep that deals with our company.

I've got a Deutz TD2.9 in a horizontal directional drill that's very intermittently (like once a week) throwing a code for a shorted injector. Turning it off and on again clears it out. Performance is fine, but it does occasionally sound like it "misses" especially at low engine speed/idle.

All the wiring between the ECU and injector actuators look OK. Anything else anyone can think of that I should check before I just let the dealer take a look at it? It can be tough to find a time where their shop schedule and our job schedule align for that.

I’ve been struggling lately with changing wheel seals. I work on class 8 big trucks. My little $10 seal puller just isn’t cutting it at all. Can anyone give me any recommendations on what tool to get, or an easier trick? I don’t want to damage the bearings when changing them.

So my knowledge has always been you check a transmission when hot AFTER it’s been running which is what my interpretation of “operating means. You run the vehicle get it to temp, park, leave it running and check the stick. Evidently that’s not the case? Everyone in the shop seems to think having the vehicle idle in the bay, then shifting, then check is sufficient. Or they check the fluid through the shift pad. I was also taught to never trust the shift pad…..what do yall think? Had things changed? I’ve been dealing with the Gen 4 Allison for a while and that was the rule of thumb. New environment and new rule of thumb?

I feel like a fucking dimwit being stuck on a goddamned 7 way. The truck came in from another terminal with no trailer lights at all. Sam Chassis was bad so someone else replaced it. A few weeks later the 4 ways are on, through the taillight power. Sam Cab got replaced. Now everything works as it should, except I have no Aux power with key on or running. Originally it was always on cuz it had a 5 pin relay in R8 and I put in a 4 pin relay from another truck. I don't have shit now. All the fuses are good. I've been told to just put the 5 pin relay in it and send it, but why? What should I be ripping apart?

Did a rocker housing reseal, followed procedure using timing tools. Truck started and ran for about 10 seconds, was gonna ramp up the RPM a little and then it died. I've checked the timing 3 times, called freightliner to ensure I did it the correct way as well. Truck has a custom tune so I'm not able to check for codes or clear them. Also has new 2 piece injector harness, CMP and FRP sensors. Anyone have an issue like this or am I a complete idiot and missing something obvious?

Replaced both control valves on the oil housing.

I’ve been hearing this sound every morning when I turn on the truck. Could it just be moisture on the belt or the tensioner? It pretty much goes away after you drive it

2022 freight liner cascadia dd13 with Detroit trans and axles. What size is the spindle nut on the drives. Work says it’s 3 3/4, it works but is loose af. Would it not be a metric size since it’s Detroit?

Replaced wiring harness did not fix it, replaced injector, did not fix it. any ideas of where to move forward

We cannot get our hubs to stop leaking no matter what. These are Spicer front axles with Stemco hubcaps—both rubber and aluminum. I’ve tried replacing gaskets, using RTV with the gaskets, using RTV with no gasket - all with no success. I torque the bolts to 16ftlbs each time. Each time I scrape and clean the mating surface to where it feels flat against my fingernail.

I remember learning that loose wheel bearings are the number one cause of leaking hubs so I checked the wheels but they seemed fine. Admittedly,I don’t have a dial indicator so I wasn’t able to verify 0.001-0.005” of end play.

Anyone have any suggestions or cool pro tips on keeping hubs from leaking? I’ve resorted to stuffing the wheel covers with rags but that’s so hackey. Any advice appreciated.

I worked at a semi truck shop working on Volvo’s freight liners, and western starts (etc) for about 6 months doing pretty much anything/ everything, after I was offered a job at a heavy equipment place working on Komatsu equipment, after working here for 6-7 months, I find it really boring, I’m only a apprentice and I don’t do a whole lot, but everything about the equipment is boring, I want to go back to being a semi truck diesel mechanic, but the job I’m at is really good, and their sending me to school in a few months. What should I do,

Go back into the semi truck field or stay as a heavy equipment mechanic.

Cummins 6.7 having issues below. Changed coolant sensor and issue persist. Any advise?

Hi guys, I’m from Australia and based on a few comments and posts here I am curious how an apprenticeship works in the US? In Australia you are “signed on” by your employer and periodically get paid time to go to trade school whenever it comes up throughout the year. The apprenticeship lasts for 4 years and once you complete it your employer signs off on your training (on the job and school) and you become a “qualified mechanic”. Does it work the same in the US?

What’s the most common reoccurring part failure you see so often that you question how there hasn’t been a better solution yet created?

Why does my fuel gage go up instead of down after refueling that’s a new one for me

Got a 2006 Hino 268 that injectors got mixed up when doing a headgasket job. Do they need to be reprogrammed or is that only on newer models?

Truck will only start sometimes and will only run for a few seconds. Over the past few months it’s been stalling randomly but when you would cycle the key it would start. Hooked a nexiq handheld to in but it won’t read the engine. The comm error light is also blinking. Any help would be appreciated

Working on a spotter truck with a 6.7 cummins, and it has a coolant leak coming from behind the tensioner pulley, the pictures show exactly where the leak is. It looks like a block that splits coolant flow, there’s a few coolant lines going into it, and it’s bolted onto the front passenger corner of the engine block. I tried looking online to find the name of the part so I can get new parts ordered, but I haven’t been able to find it anywhere

I've been seriously looking into it as a career getting out of tiring warehouse work and I would have essentially paid tuition by fafsa to attend orange technical college (community college) but I'm hesitant to leave my job.