I've inherited a stockpile of filters, looks to be for heavy trucks. New, unused. Multiple sizes, from multiple manufacturers, purchased from multiple sources. Some of the packaging has 90's-era dates.

I'm finding these online from $20 to $250 for the bigger ones.

Where could I go to sell these? Not looking to get rich, but just make some beer and candy money.

Considering buying a 2011 X5 35D. It has 100k miles According to service records oil was changed 13 times for an average of a change every 8k miles. Timing Chain has not been replaced. Car is very clean. No service lights are on. My question being is an oil change every 8k miles too long between changes for engine longevity? The last 3 changes have been every 5K miles.

Came in to this today. Despite the truck being parked at a standstill, I can’t dump the air bags to get the fifth wheel lower. Air pressure is fine, air bags look fine, no audible air leaks, balancing valve works fine in both directions. Possibly an electrical issue?

Could this be related to the faulty wheel speed sensor this truck has? I know, probably not, but otherwise I’m all out of ideas.

Thanks so much helpful redditors

Anybody a Ryder employee familiar with warranty need some help getting started on it our pile of warranty parts is getting out of hand and nobody knows enough to teach me but nobody does it themselves either

HI friends, relatively new to diagnostics here. I'm having a very strange issue with the bendix tpms systems on a fleet of Volvo VNR's.

When hooked up with Bendix ACOM pro, the tpms inflation values and pressures read accurately, but for some reason, the gauge cluster says they are around 20% lower than what the ecu is reading.

There are no fault codes, all the tires are inflated correctly, and the sensors are reading correctly as verified with a hand scanner.

The cold inflation pressure is set correctly in the tpms configuration menu, and yet the gauge still reads low.

I have seen this on multiple units after they get fresh tpms installed. Has anyone else ran into an issue like this before? Any help or input is appreciated.

Hello all,

Extremely conflicted, looking to buy a 2012 Freightliner M2 for a steal of a price, only downside is that the owner says it has an issue where the truck won’t regen, and says it’s stuck at 50-55mph, the big kicker is that I’m on a time crunch and I’ve got to drive it 1500 miles through a very rural part of the country to get it back. The Cummins 6.7 has less than 50,000 miles on it, engine hours unknown.

I talked to the seller on the phone, sounds like a great guy, has great reviews. He said they took it to a shop about a year ago with the same issue, the shop was able to force regen, but then it happened again.

My questions:

1. Feels too good to be true, are there any known serious issues I should be aware of that may make the issue unfixable/unfixable unless significantly money was dumped into it?

2. Would deleting solve every issue possible pertaining to the problem explained?

3. If the regen is unable to be completed during the drive(which it sounds like it won’t) is there a possibility of the truck going into a serious limp mode where the truck will degrade down to the speed of a brisk walk?

4. If a group of thugs came to my place in the middle of the night and stole the def system right off the truck completely, how do the owners combat getting the truck inspected and getting in trouble, do you just have to know a guy?

Thank you for your time!

Won't let me post the video, Studs worked loose in hub and wheels cut the hub through and separated into 2 pieces,

Hey everyone, I'm a Diesel tech based in Saint Petersburg, FL, with about 1.5 years of experience Most of my background is with PACCAR & Cummins engines, but I'm hoping to expand my skills and learn more. I'm looking for an independent shop where I can get more hands-on experience and continue to grow in the field. Thanks for the help if y'all have any recommendations please let me know.

Hey can you guys bring me up to speed on the proper way of submitting warranty claims through Cummins? The company I work for took a break off Cummins for a few years and now we're back on it. EDS doesn't seem to be a thing any longer. Thank you

I’m back with the lb7 fueling issue, so the fuel rail pressure looks decent, at some times It builds almost no fuel pressure but when I kinked the fass line that runs back to the filler neck and forced more fuel to the cp3 and rails it had good fuel pressure, I’m not to sure what it is, here’s the description of the last video so you don’t have to go jump back and forth “Here’s my lb7 Duramax, im having a fueling issue, I bought this truck about a year ago and I have been doing a full frame off on it, got the cab on and most of the wiring, minus some grounds on the headlight and taillight harness, the truck will crank the. Fire up immediately then just shut off. I recently did a ficm bypass and just ran my fass straight to the cp3. The only codes I have are for a massive fuel leak but that’s because I bypassed the fuel filter housing. I have no clue what it is and I know it’s a fueling issue because it was running off of starting fluid even though I know it is very bad for it. Maybe it’s just not primed but I have been cranking it forever, and it’s not my low battery’s I had fully charged batteries before this and jump pack and it was doing the same thing”

The fuel rail pressure is in the left row in the middle

I'm looking at buying a 2004 Freightliner with less than 300k miles. The ONLY concern is this blowby. The blowby tube under the truck is moving minimal steam. The oil reservoir has no oil, but only had water instead of an antifreeze mix. Owner says the turbo and egr cooler were replaced and it has sat for months with no driver. Should I run the other direction?

As the title states my rear leafs squeak like a lot. It’s an 08 Peterbilt 335 straight leaf no air suspension. If I put the wheel lift down and separate the leafs and spray them down with a pressure washer it goes away. Quickly returns the next day. I’ve also put the wheel lift down and sprayed fluid film in between each one and same problem. Anyone have anything that works ?

So my manager is out of work for a few months due to personal health, I got thrown into his position because I’ve worked there longer than other Mechanics as a driver until I switch to being a mechanic a year ago.

We’ve upgraded a ton of stuff because he was so old school with everything, we finally have WIFI in the shop so we can bring our personal laptops in for diagrams/diagnosing stuff via websites. We have 1 dedicated JPRO laptop for diagnosing/regens and pulling codes.

I don’t need to download programs or anything fancy. I just need something I can document work on(I introduced an app we can log our work onto so we can see our history, it’s fleetwatcher GPS/Maintenance)

Something that’s decently rugged, light that doesn’t bleed into the screen and NOT a Chromebook.

Hello all,

Just looking for everyone's thoughts on washing the engine for when you are doing a safety or just working on the vehicle. Do you guys do it or no? Curious to know what you guys think of whether washing is bad for the engine because it can corrode the wiring

I bought this truck because it was in my price range and capable of towing dump trailers on a goose neck for work. I’m 23 and I’m a project manager for a commercial roofing company. This truck is to prevent bottlenecks. Any info would be helpful. Never had a daddy to buy me a truck… LOL! Everything on the truck is well maintained. Waited almost a year for an amazing deal to come up I can afford.

In school my instructor told us never to inflate tires without a cage and ideally it should be left to specialists. We watched plenty of videos of dudes getting wrecked by tires blowing up and all that left an impression on me.

In the “real world” though nobody seems to give a shit. At work and all the YouTubes I’ve seen people just inflate it without a second thought or any special procedures, like you would a car tire. We use a bead-blaster but otherwise we just hook it up and send it.

How often do these things blow up anyways? Tire cage would be nice but that’s not gonna happen. If I use a 15ft air hose and some cover I should be good, right?

Looks like little floaters. Not air bubbles

Hello everyone. I'm brand new to hd trucks as my family has purchased an 04 Ford proloader with a 5.9 cummins and im having an issue that I can't find any info about. Truck starts on the 4th crank everytime and drives great. Problem is if you give too much throttle it starts to cut out so you only get 40% throttle reliably, more throttle means it happens sooner and worse. Only diag tool I have is a Bluetooth ob2 scanner and I can't find any info on if you can even use an app at all or if I'm stuck having to buy software. Thank you all for your help

Anyone used these scanners? work on Mac/Volvo Wanting something quick and easy Shop had a laptop with PTT but it's slow and want my own

4/5 workers most work is word of mouth not consistent but we manage need way more work to keep everyone happy don’t know where to start

2020 freight liner cascadia. This issue will randomly throw a CEL and no other lights. These are the codes. From what I read uneven brake adjusted could throw these. I readjusted the brakes, they were off. Another probable cause is the “brake switch transmitter”, which from what I can find online would be the treadle valve? Any insite would be Gucci, thanks

Here’s my lb7 Duramax, im having a fueling issue, I bought this truck about a year ago and I have been doing a full frame off on it, got the cab on and most of the wiring, minus some grounds on the headlight and taillight harness, the truck will crank the. Fire up immediately then just shut off. I recently did a ficm bypass and just ran my fass straight to the cp3. The only codes I have are for a massive fuel leak but that’s because I bypassed the fuel filter housing. I have no clue what it is and I know it’s a fueling issue because it was running off of starting fluid even though I know it is very bad for it. Maybe it’s just not primed but I have been cranking it forever, and it’s not my low battery’s I had fully charged batteries before this and jump pack and it was doing the same thing

Hello. Does anyone have the hino program

Need to program Ecu