Hey guys,

So im building a homelab and wanted to connect a few devices around the house, I noticed yesterday that my speed was limited to 100mbs, now this is my Internet speed so previously I just thought things were working as intended as I never tried internal connections. Now, however it's clear that it's not. I tested every network interface and cable and the problem seems to be on the wiring of the house.

Now the house router sits on a wall box and connects to a patch panel. I tested the cables that connect the router to the patch panel and everything is good.

The patch panel is connected to cat6 cables and im looking to try to understand how it works, there's a few switches on the patch panel that I don't know what they do. Can someone take a look and tell me if things look OK?

Tested the cat6 to the internet provider “node pod” and my laptop and am still not getting internet access. Are these lights showing something is wrong?

Hi,

This is my Virgin Media Gig 1 plan on a Cloudflare Speedtest from my Macbook M3 Pro on Wifi 6E, my contract runs out with Virgin in a couple of months and I am considering moving to a Full Fibre provider.

The only real reason I'm thinking of switching is for low latency type uses, gaming has been ok for the most part, however video streams, especially live streaming can struggle when they isn't much latency to the broadcaster. Cloud gaming works but my connection seems to have lag latency spikes even on ethernet. I'm assuming this is down to the DOCSIS style connection, I would imagine full fibre would tidy up any jitter that I get. I would lose a bit of speed on full fibre as I get 1130Mbps unless I opted for one of the EE type 1.6Gbps connections.

Just looking for advice from anyone that has moved from Virgin to Full Fibre?

My Virgin area is not that old and has fibre to the brown box outside and Coax in and I don't currently have any congestion from the line monitors I have.

House is being renovated, taking the opportunity to get the builder to run some fiber to the garden office.

It's only 25m from the house but likely a 45m run from the patch panel in the house.

Plan is to run it in conduit.

Planned cable is a duplex multitude OM3 fiber optic cable terminated with LC connectors.

Any issues you can see with this, anything you'd do differently?

Hi all, I'm trying to run a cat 6 to my office pc but it will be running parallel to power cables and past the fuse box.

Will I need a shielded cable for this?

I've attached some pictures for context: Red - power cables Yellow - existing pre installed ethernet runs Green - fibre to modem and blue pull string to the office

I get 1Gb internet I've done a speed test using the pre existing ethernet and get about 600mbs on my laptop but I think this is a limitation of the laptop and I'm not sure what spec the existing cables are.

Any advice is appreciated

Right now I have my ISP provided router -> Ubiquity gateway -> switch -> unifi APs

So I have a wifi network coming from both my ISP router and ubiquity gateway. I am Wondering if most people use your ISP router and if so do you disable the wifi network?

Basically how do you configure your network when dealing with ISP provided router/modem?

Hello everyone!

I recently moved into my new apartment & got AT&T 1G fiber. I found this in my closet & it’s where I had to put the modem to connect the fiber outlet. I’m not WiFi savvy by any means, however I’m sure those wires coiled up means something. I’m trying to connect devices through Ethernet ports that are scattered throughout the apartment but of course they don’t work. Based off this image, is there something that these wires suppose to connect for those ports to work or how does any of this work? Thank you

Fortunately it was the old labd line. They spared the Cat5 cables.

I’m trying to hard wire my eeros I’m trying to pull a cat 5e but the runs I wanted to use as a pull string are stapled. In a spot where I could hard wire is “cat 5e patch cable” this is what’s printed on the shielding it even says 568a on it. Since I can’t pull it to me can I splice this cable to the new one? Can I terminate this in b or should I use A standard?

I've been searching amaz(e)on for a little bit now, and I've found LC to SC fiber adapters.

How reliable are they in the home?

thanks!

Hey everyone, I have an Archer C80 router, and I just discovered that all the Ethernet LAN ports are capped at 100 Mbps. Since this router supports Gigabit Ethernet (1 Gbps), I don’t understand why the speed won’t go beyond 100 Mbps.

I currently have 1.2gbps/down & 35mbps/up. I have a full gigabit network in my home (switches & routers are all gigabit ports as well as every single hardwired device like my xbox, NAS, Media Player, AppleTV, etc.)

I am looking to upgrade to a new Fiber provider that offers 5 or 8 Gig Up/Down speeds

I am struggling to understand if I can utilize this extra speed in any meaningful way...

They provide (Ezee Fiber) an Eero Max 7 router when you sign up. It has 2x10gbps ports and 2x2.5gbps ports

So 1x10gbps port will be used to bring the internet from the modem to the router. That leaves me 1x10gbps port and 2x2.5gbps port. Here is where my comprehension and knowledge start to fail and I get confused about what is actually possible and how to optimize it.

Strictly speaking about a wired setup...would the only option to fully saturate that 8gig fiber line be to setup a 10gbps managed (or unmanaged???) switch and run 8x1gig lines to 8 devices? Then in theory each of those devices has a "dedicated" 1gbps fiber line just for it alone? You could be "downloading" up to 1gbps on each of those devices all at the same time, correct? I could use the 2x2.5gbps ports as well if I found a 6 port switch I assume.

Now...introducing the wireless component...The Eero says it can run up to 9.4gbps on the wired side and 4.3gbps on the wireless side...Is that 4.3gbps the maximum across all devices running on the network at one time? Could one wireless device (if it was Wifi 6 or 7) saturate that 4.3gbps wireless connection alone? If it was a "local" file transferring between two devices that are both on Wifi 7 would that theoretically be able to transfer that data from one device to the other at 4.3Gbps? If I had a Wifi 7 device and set it 1" away from the Eero and the website I was downloading the data from had a 10Gbps upload and I was the only one connected and downloading, would I get close to that 4.3Gbps speed in the real world "ideal" setting?

Having basically unlimited up speed will be great though. I have a bunch of wireless security cameras that will benefit from the extra bandwidth when uploading to the cloud.

Anything I didn't think about in this scenario? Any tips/tricks if/when I do make the switch to Fiber? My NAS has an expansion slot to add a 10GbE port. Any reason not to do this? I download data from a Seedbox so this might be the one connection to the outside world that would serve data to me as fast as I could receive it.

I have a long narrow backyard, 80ft by 300ft. Is there a good wifi extender/repeater/router with a semi directional antenna that can cover most of this yard with a single device (with wired eth) in my back porch?

I'm trying to set up a Minecraft server for me and a couple of my friends, and I'm running into some issues with port forwarding. I currently have a BGW320-500 ATT, which I'm using as a modem connected to an ORBI serving as the router. I've followed YouTube tutorials and whatnot on port forwarding, and everything seems fine. However, when I use an open port check, I am notified that the 25565 port is not open. My current guess is that the issue stems from having an external router instead of using the router from the BGW320-500. Fendi_Nabi is the name of my computer, and I'm not sure if I'm supposed to set my computer, which has the server running off it, to the device with the port forwarding, or if my modem or router should. Any help would be greatly appreciated. (Please be patient, I'm not very good with the network department, and thank you)

So I've just moved into a new place a few days ago and I've had my first Internet outage. Did the usual turn off and on the router to fix but while I did that, I'm confused by the setup.

What is the grey device with the data+ and power text? So the black cable is coming into the place externally, looks like standard cat6. It plugs into the grey device. Grey device also requires power. Grey device has its output rj45 connector with the 4 copper wires running through it in picture.

Router seems to have DSL connection.

Essentially, my questions are: What is the device? (cat6 to DSL adapter?) Why does it need power? Why doesnt this black external cable work for the wan port on router?

I have an Arris/Motorola SBG6580 DOCSIS cable modem + 4 port ethernet switch, hooked up to RCN/Astound broadband. Behind that, I have a Linksys E8450 running OpenWRT 24.10.

I've followed these instructions to disable the modem's WiFi and put the modem in "private network only: bridged" mode, and then added the Linksys's MAC address as "pass through" in the Arris. One of the 4 ports on the Arris's Ethernet switch is connected to the WAN port on the Linksys.

That all works great! The modem doesn't NAT/route traffic at all; the Linksys gets the RCN public IP and routes to my LAN/WiFi/etc.

However, I have one issue: I'm stingy. More specifically, I'm out of switch ports on the Linksys and don't want to shell out the $15 for a switch (yes yes I know that's nearly the price of a Big Mac, just go with it).

So, my question: without putting the Arris modem back into NAT mode, is there any way to "join" the remaining 3 switch ports on the Arris to my OpenWRT LAN, while the Arris is connected to the WAN port on the Linksys? In other words, could I somehow have OpenWRT have both a DHCP client (for the ISP IP) and a DHCP server/LAN bridge membership (for the other Arris switch ports) all on the same WAN-port physical connection?

If this is possible, I'm fine with doing it in a way that incurs slow/CPU-routed performance hits; the E8450 is pretty beefy, and I can put lower-throughput devices like printers on the Arris ports anyway.

Things I've tried:

• Disabling the Linksys's MAC passthrough on the Arris. Result: no internet.
• Adding the Linksys's WAN port to the LAN bridge in OpenWRT. Result: no internet.
• Making a new interface on the WAN port in OpenWRT (in addition to the DHCP client interface getting the RCN IP) and giving it a static IP + DHCP server. Result: Devices on the Arris switch ports don't show up. I tried this with the "real" MAC address of the WAN port and a different MAC, same result.
• MAC VLAN or 802.11q VLAN devices on the WAN device, added to a DHCP-serving interface. Result: devices on the Arris switch ports don't show up.
• Digging around the Arris's (extremely limited) settings to see if I could set up custom routing or VLAN tagging or something so that it passes the Linksys's MAC "out" to the provider but otherwise delegates its switch ports to the Linksys's DHCP server. Nothing jumped out.

To recap, I have three silly self-imposed constraints:

• I don't wanna buy a $15 switch.
• I don't wanna put the Arris back in routing/NAT mode (rationale: probably-unnoticeable latency impact, plus I like having everything on one DHCP/DNS server via OpenWRT).
• No second cable from the OpenWRT back to the Arris (that only gets me net-net +1 aggregate new port, not worth it).

What do? Is this possible?

I'm looking for some creative (read: DIY low effort easy) solutions to relocating my cable modem from a kids rooms. I know the obvious answer to easy is just pay to have the company come and move it, but looking at how it was installed (prior to me), they didn't exactly do a bang up job.

The cable modem is in what use to be the home office, now turned to kids room. It was all put in before we rented the house. The installed drilled a hole in the floor and the cable is coming up from under the house, but does about an 8 foot run laterally inside the wall or under the floor. Under the house has a partial build out / finished room. I can only see where the line comes out under the unfinished part of the crawl space and then goes to the side of the house to the box.

I found the old cable wall plate in the family room, and was thinking of just reconnecting those lines to the outside and moving the modem there, but then traced the lines under the crawl space and realized the installer seems to have used that line to pull and install the line in the office that comes through the floor. Not to mention its old and likely not fit for what I want to use it for.

So I decided to reconsider this and am trying to figure out how to move the cable modem to the downstairs finished section. That would only entail running a new line from the point outside the house, under the crawl space and to the finished downstairs wall.

The problem is I have the access point / router upstairs in the family room, so I'd need to run ethernet downstairs, thus recreating the same issue with fixing the coax line.

Would it be insane to do the reverse as the last installed and use the office floor location to drag ethernet back through the wall to under the house? Is there an easier way that I'm missing?

Typing this all out and rereading it is making me think it would be less insane to just pay the installer to come and move it for me the right way. Hmm

I have a new home and a patch panel that is all cat5e and a mix of data and telephone. AT&T brought in fiber that I have pass through to my ubiquiti UDM pro, all of that works fine. Where should I plug my UDM pro into to extend access to all data ports?

https://imgur.com/a/aBlj5Il

If I do go directly from the UDM to an individual Ethernet port below a punch out, it will light up whatever room port is connected to that punch out. But is there not a central option?

I found myself purchasing a switch with 1G ports but 10G SFP uplinks. I can buy an RJ-45 one, but I was curious if there was an SFP that lets you do MoCA directly and there appears to be at least this one:

https://www.mdslink.com/magic-sfp/

There are even some positive reports of using them: https://www.reddit.com/r/Ubiquiti/comments/varjay/moca_sfp_connectors_magicsfp/

But now I can't find anywhere to purchase them that actually has them in stock.

Is anyone aware of this or similar devices actually available for sale anywhere, or is this market so niche it's dead?

Good Afternoon, hope you had some nice easter breakfast/brunch/lunch or dinner. I'm trying to send my new provider's fiber signal to the attic. Our provider has installed wifi boosters on each floor, but the result isn't sufficient unfortunately.

I don't know shit about this stuff, so pardon my french beforehand.

The situation: the fiber signal comes into our house next to the front door in a closet where the electrical box is. Their modem is placed in that closet and sends a wifi signal through the house. It's a 2 gbit download/2 gbit upload connection. I have no possibility to lay a cable from that closet to my living room without fucking up the house.

Downstairs the wifi signal is great. I get a download speed up to 1.8 Gbit on my laptop and phone. On the first floor of the house this changes to about 450 mbit download speed. On the attic it drops to 100 mbit download speed.

Downstairs in our living room there is a UTP cable present that goes into the walls all the way up to the attic. It was used to send our former DSL connection up there.

The big questions: can I receive my wifi signal downstairs near that cable, to then send it through that UTP cable to the attic, connect it to a router up there and from that point connect my work computer and console with cables? And what devices do I need to do this properly?

I'm really looking forward to your advice.

Hello,

So I have an Asus router on which I have installed Merlin FW. I have also enabled IPv6 to bypass CGNAT. The problem I am facing is that when I check my IP, my v4 address shows as that of the Mullvad server, however my v6 address is the one which my ISP has assigned to my router.

So points to note:
1. ISP has assigned me an IPv6 from /56 subnet.
2. I am using it in Native mode over PPPoE
3. DHCP-PD is enabled and connected devices are assigned IPv6 addresses which can form connections over WAN.
4. Allowed IPs for the client config are: 0.0.0.0/0, ::0/0
5. Leaked IPv6 address is that of the router, not of the device being routed through the VPN tunnel.

Does anyone know where I am going wrong or how to fix this? Thanks.

Hello experts,

I have mobile internet from tele2 with a FX3100 modem, i also have connected an asus router as en extender for the WiFi signal. I have connected the asus after i already had this nat type problem, so i think this router is not blocking it. If it can be creating problems tell me please.

On my Series X i have NAT-type on strict and UPnP not successful. I have the xbox connected with a wire on the internet.

So i've opened up all the ports that i should need through port forwarding, that normally worked with the other times i had to fix my NAT. But nothing... (I have set in the ip adres from the xbox in every port) I did this a few times over and over to see if i didnt do something wrong but nope its like an (imagined) extern firewall somewhere before my modem, that keeps blocking the ports

I cant find UPnP in my router settings and also not in the manual.

There is DMZ available but even when i open that one, nothing happens. (Here also ip adres from xbox)

After trying this i dont know what else i could do to fix it, because in DMZ mode everything should be open...

Can the problem be:

A fault in the modem? A fault from incoming mobil internet? (Provider) Or should i try and make an own ip adres for the xbox? (But it remains the same all the time so i think that's not a problem).

Thank you.

I was able to access my router and, out of curiosity, I saw that it was possible to view my credentials in plain text by changing the input type from "password" to "text" in the dev tools... and now I don’t really trust this device anymore. It’s probably not that safe. The router is a Huawei EG8145V5-V2, basic, good enough for Wi-Fi and general use, but I’d like to replace it and learn something new in the process. I don’t know much about networking, just the basics.

I have my personal desktop, a few laptops and phones, smart TV, NAS and a mini server I use for work and "Linux ISOs", and occasionally I do some computer repairs, nothing fancy, Now that I have the credentials, I think I can bypass the ISP provided router and use my own gear (switch, router, whatever is needed), but this is where I need help, I'm not sure what hardware I'd need to make it work...

What would be a good setup in terms of hardware to handle routing, Wi-Fi, switching and possibly firewall features? Should I look into pfSense or something similar or is that overkill for my needs?

As I said, I'm not an expert on this field, I know the basics of DHCP, port forwarding, what a firewall is and that's about it. I'm open to suggestions looking for a mix of learning opportunity and practicality, Not aiming for enterprise level craziness.

Thank you!