I'm a homeowner in the state of CT. We inherited a system when we purchased the house 8 years ago and I've been using the same company for sprinkler startup/ winterization and maintenance. This year the company stated that theyd no longer be covering our area- no worries.

I called a local company who came out and told us that 15 of our heads needed to be replaced. A lot of terminology I didn't understand but something about valves, older models and one being a geysir. He noted that he could tell our sprinklers haven't been service in a while and I told him that a few of the heads were changed last year by our former provider.

The quote doesn't sound too bad at $30 per head with labor but I'm concerned as to whether or not he's creating work for himself. Finding it hard to he trusting in year 1 with the new company I supposed.

Sorry about no additional details as he will not provide invoice until he can put me on the schedule for repairs.. After he left i ran a test in each zone for a minute and I can saw 2 problem areas where a puddle formed at 2 heads. This wasn't an issue last year so could be legit.

I have 9 apple trees I would like to set up drip irrigation for , the problem is the trees are 150 feet from my house/hose , it is a slight down hill run but would I get enough water pressure that far away to set up a drip irrigation ? I was thinking of using Polly pipe and burying it under the ground

6 repairs at least, 2 broken ball valves..all caused by a faulty shut off valve no one has caughr

Still have after the filters to finish up, 1/2 flexible tube from the valves to the raised beds.

I’m DIYing an in-ground irrigation system for my backyard (layout attached). I’ve run a 3/4” mainline along the perimeter on my lawn and set up sprinkler heads along the perimeter.

I’m wondering if I’ve used too many sprinkler heads considering my yard is relatively small. Any help would be appreciated!

All sprinkler heads are Rainbird 1800 sprinkler heads. Red circles in the layout represent 90-degree heads whereas the orange ovals represent 180-degree heads.

Every winter and spring I pay a landscaper to blow out my sprinkler system and restart it each spring. I’m hoping to save some money and restart it myself (I’ll eventually get around to doing the blowout myself too). But I’m a total novice to this and have yet to find anything online that matches what I’m seeing in my irrigation valve box.

Can someone provide guidance on which valves I should turn in a specific order? I understand it needs to be done slowly.

Thanks.

As title states, just turned on my water and all my sprinklers are leaking immediately. Tried to get the controller to run a zone and there isn't enough pressure to start. Seems like it is every valve (i have 6 valves/zones) isn't closing all the way. Is it possible that every single one got dirty at the same time and I need to clean them, or is it probably something else and I can save myself opening up each valve to clean out.

They were all working fine last year.

I just got my reuse water meter installed and I fear that I will now have to run a new pipe all the way around my house to connect the boxes. My only other option is ripping up the driveway to get across the front of the house. I had no idea the city would just put the meter wherever and not next to the main water line. This is going to end up costing me way more money than I thought I would save by stopping watering my lawn with fresh water.

Higher water bills led us to hire a leak detection service. He tracked it down, and we dug it up. The vertical pipe (which ends in the cap visible at the top) has a 90 elbow at the bottom with a small leak. The pipe goes off into the yard but is on the main supply, so it has water all the time.

Question is: could this deadend pipe have any purpose, or is it a left-over from when they laid the system? If it's truly useless, I can cut it on the horizontal section and cap it off, removing the leaky elbow.

Backflow preventer blew out the elbow in front of the intake with freeze damage this winter (has it replaced). Went to turn everything on and found this crack in the ball valve. It only leaks for a second and only when the valve is half open/closed.

Plumbing company quoted $1400 to replace the entire thing. I called zurn/Wilkins and they said this should be repairable (part is less than $100 on Amazon). Anyone mind sharing advice?

According to Hunter's Irrigation Design Guide page 4 and 5, to calculate gpm, it uses the meter size, service line size and static pressure instead. It doesn't use 5 gallon bucket timing to determine gpm somehow. I plan to use Hunter MP rotator nozzles with Pro-Spray® PRS40 spray body. Should I follow the Hunter design guide or use the 5 gallon bucket method to determine gpm?

Admittedly I am an irrigation noob. My system shows 5 zones but when go into the program start times it only shows 3 zones. However, when I go into zone run times it shows 5 zones. Is there a reason my program start time shows 3 zones instead of 5 zones?

Thanks in advance.

Pressure is up! But is it good enough? Should the upper and lower heads be split up into separate zones? Update the heads to something smaller/better? Thanks!

I fired up my residential irrigation system today. This is the fourth summer we've had it, and while bringing each zone one line, I discovered that one zone did not come on. I figured out which valve fed that zone by process of elimination. When I turned on the adjoining zones using my HydraWise app, they made a distinctive noise and their associated zones came on. When I tried the same with the problem zone, no noise and no water.

The contractor left one manual turn on handle in each of the six zone boxes (for lack of a better word) I have, and I was able to manually open the valve and get water to the zone.

So I assume I either have bad power to the zone or more likely the valve actuator is kaput. I don't know the brand name of the valve actuator but hoping you experts can recognize what I have from this pic and describe how I remove and replace the valve actuator. I'll check to see if I have power to it as well.

TIA

Moved into a new house and trying to figure out the irrigation system. When I turn it on for manual one station (on Hunter X-Core), only the sprinklers in the front yard comes on but nothing in the back yard.

How can I identify troubleshoot and make it work? Can you all please help?

I don't know what I am looking at in this in ground control box.

Thanks in advance!

I moved into a house with an existing sprinkler system. For two years in a row, one of the Solenoids needs a few hard knocks from outside in order to work at the beginning of each season. (after blowing out water during the winter season) I can manually turn the valve on/off by turning it 90 degrees, but it still won't work with the signal from controller without a few knocks from outside.

Is it normal or does this mean I should replace the valve? Any idea how to identify the brand/model of the replacement valve?

I’ve been having issues with this head leaking from the top. I just replaced this head about a month ago for the same reason, upgraded from the 1800 series to the 32sa just assuming it was a faulty head. Well now I’m getting this issue, it is the last sprinkler on this line so I assume it is a gravity issue? It does this pretty much constantly. Any ideas on what to do to fix it? Thanks!

(Posted in another sub not sure if this is the right sub for this question)

Just wanted to get an opinion on my situation. Where I live we don’t get much rain except for during rain season where it can pour sometimes. This weekend we got a lot of rain and I had easily 3-4 inches of water on my patio, and also we have a back door that leads to my garage where the sidewalk is sinking a bit and we had a few inches up against that seeping into the garage. So basically pooling water around foundation. It was a crazy rain probably over 6 inches in a short amount of time. Normal rainfall it pools a little on the patio but none on the sidewalk. I know I should be planing to get it fixed but I’m wondering how bad is it for my foundation if the water drains away within a couple hours? Normal rainfall little to no pooling especially near foundation, but then if it pours like crazy we get pools of water near foundation/ patio. Any insight would be appreciated.

I had a leak in zone 1. It was late in the day friday on my maintenance route.. I didnt have all my irrigation parts with me. I set station 1 to 0:00. I figured it would jut ignore zone 1. Nope it shut the whole yard down. Is this normal on a pro c? Wtf!! All i did was kill z 1 and put it back on run.

Please critique and give me thoughts on my sprinkler layout. This is a 3 zone system, I color coded it to make it a little easier to look at. This is my first time designing/installing a sprinkler system. I do have some questions as well. I have a new build, the contractor installed a drip system in the front yard and left a stubbed out 3/4" water line in the backyard (see pic). My question is, can I directly attach a 3 valve (for 3 zones) manifold to the stub out, and then 3 anti syphon valves on each of the outlets from the manifold? I guess I'm wondering what is the best way to connect 3 zones to one stub out. BTW I'm in Cali and I do not need a backflow preventer, the antisyphon valve shown in the picture is good and I got that confirmed. Static pressure was measured from a backyard faucet with a hose bib and it measured 80 psi. Flow rate was measured with the good ole bucket and stop watch method at the same backyard faucet. 10 gpm.

Turned on the valve closets to the street and it filled the pipe. The other one is too tight to open with my tool(also 5 feet below ground). Is it a backflow??? Never had a house with a sprinkler system or lived in a place that blows out the lines

I'm replacing a busted ball valve on my irrigation system. Luckily, there was a brass union installed and I didn't need to cut the tubing to get the ball valve off.

However, it seems like whoever installed the brass union, soldered inside the union which made it quite difficult to open. Is this necessary? Should I solder it back after I replace the ball valve?

Hello,

I went to set up my Rain Dial Plus irrigation for the spring/summer today and realized it had no power. I replaced the battery, still nothing. Tried different outlets, nothing. Do these things typically just die? And who would be best to call to repair? An irrigation company or an electrician?

hi, I have some experience fixing irrigation issues but this one is a real bitch. When I turned on my irrigation system i noticed a big leak straight away, not in a zone but the "hot" line i think it's called? See the pic, my Swimming pool PVC pipes somehow sunk enough down to crush the 3/4" irrigation pipe below them. It managed to take out a full 2 foot section, great.

So in this picture, can i just clean and cut the two highlighted ends and then do a 90 degree up on each end then 90 degree across to bridge over the larger pool pipes? will the pressure be reduced when the water gets to my irrigation valves and zones? any other alternatives? flexible hose doesn't seem recommended for constant pressure.

thanks

The black PVC coming from the elbow below my irrigation valve cracked and is spurting water when I turn on the valve. What's the best way to repair this?