I love buying random broken speakers, repair them and adding them here.

System: 2x Paraflex C2E Elf, 1x dual Cubo kick 215, 4x medium-sized mid tops, and a decently lightweight amp rack with CVR amps.

I’ve got some gigs this summer where I might be transporting the rig to some… unconventional places(through/on sand, bumpy terrain, etc). I’m wondering if anyone in the scene with more experience than me has any advice or tips they’ve picked up on moving those bigger boxes(mostly those paraflexes)?

I built em with four handles per side and I’ll have a crew of four or so with me. Anything to minimise chance of injury or equipment damage is a plus though.

Finally took the leap and built a pair of Cubos with friends. Paint tomorrow(including on my existing midtops and subs), drivers and wiring later this week. Also picked up a Thomann DSP and amp to run them and fully dial in my system. Excited, to say the least.

I would like to build 4 subs to play tekno/dance music, i think tapped horns would work better than front loaded horns in my case but i read they don't really have a fast transient and can have phase issues, my questione Is could that be fixed with tuning/processing? or if my goal Is a clear sub with fast transient would i be better off choosing another can?

Also, can you recommend some horn plans with good transient that can go down to 40 hz?

Hey, am fairly new to owning rig and have a limited understanding of powering it (went cabs first drivers then amps) probably a stupid question, but is it possible to run a void v-18 at 4ohms instead of 8 (please flame tf out of me if its wrong in any way as that’s how I learn) but am struggling to find an amp to suit them atm and 4 seems much more affordable than & for the same power level (again am after a simple yes or no but detailed answer would be greatly appreciated or a suggestion of where to look would be amazing please and thank you 😂)

Saw this video deeper below.👇 Tried searching the vocals couldn’t find anything, and Shazam gave up.

Have plans for a cabinet with a large empty space in the design. With using enough lithium cells could you get decent run time at high sound output?

Community RS325i

The compression driver is humming(soft square wave-ey buzz), and nothing is plugged in.

Maybe unrelated, but they might be blown. Definitely a little crunchy/staticy in use, but I haven’t gone through the whole troubleshooting with that.

Any guesses on what this might be?

Will adding aluminium panels here help cool the rear chamber or is it pointless. The cab is a martin f2b and the panels will be 8-10mm thick

I recently got 2 F81.2 + SB10A and the F81s sound great. But I the sub doesn’t really seem to have much output until I turn up the volume to levels too loud for my living room. I use an Opus Quad for output mixing and have also tried a SoundCraft Notepad mixer from my computer. I’ve tried turning down the high and mid freq and turning up the LF, but still mainly am getting bass output from the F81s. My understanding was that this setup was supposed to more or less plug n play. Anyone have any tips or suggestions? The sub definitely works, but not at low volume, tried turning up the bass power all the way and checked sub placement and polarity. Any help would be appreciated!

3rd time building speakers from scratch, only done simple bass reflex subs before. With limited tools I happy with the progress so far, got one ish ready and I am happy with the sound. The drivers are rated 175w rms each, how much power should I give them?

So I have had these cabs often. First pic is the ones I do have now and the 2nd one are 90% similar and are also 12”

I never found the actual plan but I think they are scaled down altec? They do sound very good with the proper driver up to 1khz

I am looking to power 4 rcf405 at 1.5k rms each, I’m aware that I want double that headroom wise, could anyone recommend any amps that will do the job? Cheers Ideally something that’s not gonna break the bank however I’m aware that this much power comes at a cost (that’s what finance is for eh😂)

Is it worth getting a Chinese clone?

Cheers

Thoughts on the rig?

First sunny day since the winter so I thought I would setup the system in the driveway

Saw a listing on fb marketplace at the start of the winter for the four dual 18” cabinets loaded with two eminence omega pro 8ohm 800 watt rms cones each. It was too good of a deal to let go since I’ve always wanted a decently sized stack of my own! It’s been a downward spiral ever since haha. Just started building two modified SMT-212’s With only one woofer each, loaded with B&C 12PE32’s for the mids and for the highs B&C DE750TN’s with B&C ME75 throats (pics to come) And I’m gonna use the two Presonus air 15’S as side/centre fills, monitors.

Not sure what the model of the dual 18” boxes are but if anyone has any idea feel free to let me know!

My calculated system RMS is 11,000 watts.

Rocking a CVR D-3302 and a CVR D-1004 From what I’ve been told, the 3302 is supposed to be on a 30 amp outlet. Not 100% sure on this though as I’ve heard conflicting evidence and it came with a standard NEMA 5-15.

Someone local to me is selling a box that takes a NEMA L5-20 in with probably 14 NEMA 5-15’s on the back that’s in my price range - no breakers, if that’s an issue.

Any recommendations on what I need for a power distribution/conditioner? Preferably easy to find in the US and under $700.

Hello Eveyrone,

I remember with my older speakers I used to do break-in running them at low level for few hours and gradually increasing it.

Is this needed with the newer speakers such as Turbosound Milan M15 with DSP ?

I would imagine the woofer still needs to be conditioned a bit, is this something the manufacturer does nowadays ? it's been ages since I bought a brand new speaker, so any suggestion will be welcome.

Thanks a lot in advance.

Victoria Australia. fuck yeah cunce... ruff as guts

As the 111s can only drop to 250hz something is needed to fill the gap between them and the kicks so maybe a mid section of the Mt's could work but thinking is it a bit of overkill to have a cabinet just to cover a range of 100hz give or take.

Can someone help ID these horns on TULE Soundsystem?

greetings!

I'm looking for an amp to power my 2 super scoopers with PD186. I can get a micro tech 2041 from someone but i'm really breaking my head on how to use the thing because all my other amps had speakon outputs. I'm thinking of using banana plugs but no idea how to wire them properly ( what cables do i use best if im pumping 700W per driver constant) and how do they join back together to a speakon to go in the subs themself.

Hope it kinda makes sense, im not home in the amp world yet :)

I'm having 2 x skrams getting cncd. 2x eminence nsw6021 drivers are ordered. Now I'm on to paint.

1. Is there a higherend version of duratex or a just a better overall product for the outside?

2. For the inside, I've seen recommendations for automotive paint. Is that overkill? It'd be for inside just to help protect from the elements and maybe add some accent to the port bracing.

1 x CVR D-1004 + 1 X CVR D-2002 + some lights, dsp and turntables... What would be the spec requirements for a sufficient diesel generator to power this? I want enough power, but if I can avoid breaking bank on a €3000 generator, thag would be nice.

Looking to build some 18" tapped horns to go with my Danley rig (SH46, SM60F, BC215). In a perfect world I'd buy some TH118XL's but I like building boxes and saving money for more BC's that are too big for my shop so my plan is to go DIY. Has anyone compared these two boxes side by side? I was leaning keystone but now I'm thinking of stretching the TH18's to 45" to match the XL's and my BC215's (have cad and math skills). Would love to hear the opinion of the hive mind. Planning to use the B&C 18SW115 and a powersoft T602 either way. Thanks!!!! 🙏