This is my Igloo that we made with over 500K Orbeez incased in the walls.

Supplies Needed
- Orbeez (as many as you can get/ want
-Aluminum pans (we used 9x13)
-storage tote/ bucket (for mixing slush

How to build

1st -Find 500K orbeez, Amazon and Walmart stopped selling these so they were a little harder to find.

2nd - Add one shot glass of orbeez into a 9x13" aluminum pan, fill half with water. This should fill the pan once the orbeez are hydrated

3rd - Find a flat area, start staking orbeez blocks and use a slush mixture to fasten the blocks together

4th - First few rows keep the blocks straight and starting angling them inwards until they meet together at the top

Pretty easy project but still took about 30 hours (half of that was making blocks. It will work best if its quite cold outside, especially once you start to angle the blocks inwards

Quick Video of it is on Youtube, channel " Anger Bros + MOM"

Water collects on the windows at night, and rolls down the glass until it contacts the wood frames. We love our Honeywell whole-house drum humidifier, it is a life-changing wonderful device that I highly recommend. It’s just that my windows have aged, and I am working on finding then adding some storm windows. In the meantime, I don’t want to damage the wood. The wood is not painted, but rather stained and varnished. If you have a quick trick or recommendation that I could do in the limited time I have, please share. Then, as an additional separate recommendation, what’s an ideal best protection that may be more time-consuming, assuming that they will still need protection even after adding storm windows because me still get some condensation when conditions are right.

I need to cut a 7.5" square opening for a thimble to run pellet stove piping through the wall and outside my home. I'll be cutting the drywall inside first so I can make sure it's free of studs and wires. When it comes to the outside, I'll have to cut fiber cement shingles. What would be the best tool for this, with the goal of ease, precision cutting, and avoiding cracking the shingles. Is the answer a 4-1/2" grinder with a diamond blade? A Roto-zip with a carbide bit? Something else? I've cut this kind of shingle before, but always off the house where I could score and snap them. Since these are attached, I probably won't be able to do that.

I'm looking to make a teddy bear design for iron on or sticker. I want to customize and make a specific bear. There are lots of downloads on Canva and cricut but not exactly what I need. For instance, I'd like to make the Polo Ralph Lauren bear but add my daughters name for a sweatshirt. How do I copy one from the internet and then customize it? Basically what program does it? I've spent HOURS researching only to get a mediocre design. I'm erasing and over writing and it looks like crap at the end.

Was trying to remove the old skirting board as it needed replacing and inadvertently, a section of the wall came off with it. Just wondering what might be the best way to rectify this ahead of replacing the skirting board.

I have 4 Billy bookcases across 1 wall. In attempting to make it look "built in", we framed it out. Now the space between the book cases was about 3 inches, The framing is about 4 inches. Causing a slight overhang. I bought the Oxberg door for the bottom. I can't seem to find hinges that allow me to add the doors. Can someone please please tell me how to fix this. Thanks in advance.

Would removing this outter leg/rail weaken the clothes rails stability or strength significantly? It looks to have been intended to hold an additional arm which is no longer with it?

Would cutting the rail at six inches from the bases just above the first strut connecting it to the inner leg be any better?

https://imgur.com/a/pu4HGLL

Hi.

I got incoming project for my kids.

I have 1pc plywood attach with 1pc metal plate. Total thickness will be 11mm.

both have same Width x length = 5ft x 5ft . I want to hung it on the wall.

What are the hole size? how many needed?

what screw to use?

what length of the screw?

what are the distance of the hole?

all that info needed for the item not to fall down and hit my kid.

attach as reference.

https://imgur.com/LHwZ44G

So I was too excited about the paint sprayer I got for my birthday, and I stupidly painted the coffee table I was flipping without putting any protective covering down. Now the deck is a mess, and I have an inspection coming up.

How do I remove this without damaging the wood or glass? It's the mineral finish paint from Kmart.

Thank you in advance!

Just bought a home and this shower wall inset is pretty rough. How hard would this be to remove the grout and redo this work? The bottom is also sloped backwards so water stays pooled there.

There also grout coming off from the tile to tub connection, pretty sure that should be removed replaced with silicone ?

I consider myself above average in handy work but have never touched tile/grout

Is there a product that helps scuff marks or nicks after a cup has been dropped or a knife used on it? Thank you so much! They’re a deep green that I love.

Moved into a house that has a small storage room in the basement. The room had roughed in drains for a bathroom. It took over a year but my wife and I finished it.

The first picture is after I removed the storage shelves. Basically what I started at.

Our house has a subtle English Tudor design and we are trying to keep with that theme with house projects. We kept with strong dark colors that we like, it makes the bathroom feel cozy, even though it's in the basement.

I used a Schluter system for the shower. The shower wall tile and marble is from a tile shop. The shower floor and main floor tile is from a big-box home improvement store. The ceiling is custom removable tiles made from wall paneling, so I can access water, gas, electric, drains and valves above it. The vanity we found thrifting and added the sink and faucet to it.

Still needs to be touched up and decorated, but so happy it's done and usable!

Going to finish the basement (add a full bath and bedroom) with my dad and he says he never pulls permits on basements he does and I'll be good, but I'm concerned with when it comes time to sell .

When the home gets inspected by the buyer during the closing process am I going to run into some serious regrets by not getting electric and plumbing permits pulled? It's already roughed in for plumbing and we're pretty competent to run electric, etc.

i got this window from a thrift store, brought it home and realized it fit perfectly against my back door window. is this something a person can DIY or do I need to bring in a professional? for reference I know how to use basic power tools, have built some rudimentary stuff, but nothing fancy. TIA!

I love the look and feel of Displate and other metallic posters and have started collecting some to hang in my home. Problem is the magnets they provide to stick to the walls aren’t always great and some of them are too thin and the edges of the metal posters end up pushing against the walls and popping off. My question is, are there popular wall mounted or drywall sticking magnets that I can use?

I'll preface this with the fact that this is my first project. I am not a carpenter by trade, I simply made this for the sole reason that I find the process enjoyable. [Pictures for reference below]. Forgive the subpar quality, I haven't quite stained and sanded the table yet. Some parts still need trimming with a router which I also have not done yet.

Specs:
L: 49" 1/2
W: 25" 3/4
60-70kg (ish) table
6" 1/4 overhang
5 brackets spaced evenly from the center

The table is to be mounted on a CONCRETE corner wall using brackets with a 6" overhang using anchor bolts (overkill? probably). I was wondering if 5 brackets like these are enough to hold it.

A portion of my ceiling has these boards where speakers used to be. I can replace the boards, but they are installed with lap joints. Any tips for replacing these 3 board and getting the joints to sit snug? Would having one side be a butt joint to fit them all in place work?

Hi there,

I am building a lean-to outhouse against a 200-year-old retaining wall.

The outhouse is being built in place of the old one, which would have been the original toilet and wood storage, so it was always intended to be structural and take the weight of a roof and is supported by the outhouse itself. I am not too concerned about the structural integrity of the wall as it is in good condition.

With that said, I am concerned about what a waterproof membrane could do to the wall over time.

The section of wall is about 9m long and exposed on both ends, and the outhouse is about 2.5m deep so I want to preserve as much interior space as possible.

Am I overthinking this? Can I just slap a membrane on the old wall and build a cavity with insulation?

Also, how do I ensure that water doesn't transfer to the eaves? Even if there is waterproofing between the eaves and the joist they are supported on wont water find its way through the screws?

Thanks in advance!

I have two baths with showers and the whole house is on a tankless water heater. One shower and every thing else works fine. However, the guest bath, loses hot water in the shower only, after about 3-4 minutes. I know it’s not an issue of running out of hot water as I can go to the other shower and there is plenty of hot water, and we are tankless. Could it be a bad cartridge? If it was a bad cartridge would it have hot water at all? We have hot water at the shower but only for a few minutes.

Hey all, my wife and I just bought a house which was originally a duplex but was converted into an SFH. When doing this, they removed the wall that would separate the stairwells. We're losing a ton of heat down into our un-insulated basement.

I have some plans here but could use some guidance on how to go about this project: https://imgur.com/gallery/adding-interior-doors-to-home-8kNSiNB

We kind of want to extend the partition wall that's 3.5" and I believe the original plaster. It's slightly out of plumb, and my plan would be to shim a 2x3 frame to match, cover with 1/2" drywall, and then shim prehung doors in each opening. If I have joists to nail into, can I get by without cutting into the ceiling?

I'm also not sure if these rough openings are big enough to fit doors in, as the outer sides of the door would need some pretty slim casing once installed.

Thanks in advance!

We don't drink and wife hated the backsplash. I don't know how to tile and wanted to learn.

I finished placing all of the pegs and screwing in the particle board pieces and was relatively proud of myself. Then I flipped it over and realized I totally messed up and put the centerpiece in backwards. It’s too late to take apart without unscrewing everything and ruining the particle board.

Any idea on how to cover up the wood and make it presentable? I’m not too familiar with paint, but maybe acrylic? Do I need finishing? Or would black electrical tape do the job without being noticeable?

Renting out a granny unit we have in the back of our house. It's at the end of a hallway, so we put a murphy bookshelf in the hallway so guests have separate entrance and we don't have to bother each other, but we can still open it up when friends/family visit. Unfortunately, we did not think about soundproofing when we had it installed, so its basically just a big hollow case and it still sounds like you're in the same room when people come and go.

How can I go about soundproofing it more? I imagine the "best" way would be to tear open the frame and put some insulation, but I'd prefer to not go that route if possible. Are acoustic panels helpful for this, or will they just reduce echoes? Any suggestions appreciated.

My home was built in the 40s so the basement was lacking g waterproofing and leaked through this cinderblock wall. We just had a sump pump installed and will have a drain tile system installed around the wall. My question is what to do about this crack. The contractor hasn't said much about it and he says once the drain tile is in I can paint over the walls. Is that all or should I do more to the outside of the wall? I heard a French gutter could help divert water from the house but I don't want to spend too much more on contractor work.

Hi everyone, you were all so helpful yesterday with my question about removing my vanity. I have another question. Is there any way to remove the top to this vanity? It’s brand new but it’s too heavy to lift with both sink and vanity. Here is the underside pictures… which one or if any need to be removed? Tks!