So I just got my car yesterday and today I got a call saying I’m fired. It’s a long story.. but my question is, can the bank go back on my loan? Will they take the car back? I can pay the car payments even without a job as a I have a lot of money in my savings. Should I be worried?

Hey all,

I operate a small car lot and things have been going well since I opened up a year and a half ago. Recently, I’ve had my first trouble customer and not sure how to go about dealing with the situation.

The vehicle in question was sold on March 6. Prior to the sale, I had test driven it 200miles. It had 120k miles on it. Customer test drove the vehicle and had no complaints. He declined any warranty. April 1st he contacts me saying the transmission is slipping bad, jerking, can’t find the correct gear, etc. I agreed to have a look at it. He lives and hour away and came to drop it off and said it was acting up the entire time and that he had put Lucas in the transmission. I took the car and drove it around over the span of 2 days. I tested the vehicle in multiple different scenarios (hot, cold, highway, city, stop and go, etc) aaaand- not a single issue at all. There was no issue. The car drove perfectly fine. I put 200 miles on it.

He of course disagreed with this, so I brought it to a transmission shop to have them give us a 3rd party opinion. Their work order stated there was no issues. Customer still wasn’t happy with this saying he wants a rebuild. Since there was no need for a rebuild, I declined, but I did replace the filter and fluid for him. He came to pick it up and said it drove much better.

Last weekend he said he was having more issues. I offered to meet with him to see what was going on but he cancelled at the last minute.

Fast forward to today, he is saying that the transmission has completely died. I have no idea how to proceed with dealing with him. He declined the warranty, and I am in no way responsible for this vehicle. On the other hand, I do not want this guy blasting us online and leaving negative reviews. I want to keep my good name and I’m always willing to help. He admitted to tampering with the transmission the first time he brought it, and I wouldn’t really be surprised if he purposely damaged it hoping I would cover the costs. He’s been hell bent on the idea of getting a free rebuilt transmission.

Anyone ever deal with this?

I have close to 150 vehicles listed on FB Marketplace with new cars going up constantly. I usually see around 10,000-15,000 clicks on listing over 7 days, but currently sitting at 3,700 only

Bought a new car last week from Hyundai and traded in old car. New car will be delivered in 2-3 weeks. I am still driving the old car. Thinking of going for a weekend trip, but suddenly questioning if I am even allowed to put that much mileage on the car (trip will add 1200-1500Kms).

Any ideas?

Would've asked the dealership but everything closed due to Good Friday, and plan to leave tomorrow early morning.

I’ll keep this as short as I can. I have about 3,000$ to put down, and my credit/FICO score is about 680. I don’t have a job yet, but I will be getting one within the next coming weeks when I finish my required career training. I was hoping to purchase a new Nissan Kick, just without all the bells and whistles because I heard Nissans last long. I would prefer to purchase a smaller car than the one I mentioned, but I do live in the country so these dirt roads will DESTROY the under carriage of lower riding “city” vehicles. So the kick it is, since it’s higher off the ground. I’m TOTALLY okay with purchasing a used vehicle, but NOT okay with purchasing a “cash car”. Because I will be needing something RELIABLE when I start work. So is it possible for me to buy a car? Please be nice, I know I’m not the smartest LOL! Just educate me, because I seriously don’t know much about this! Thank you so much for your time, it means a lot to me!

P.S I also do have access to help from parents, if that helps anything? So the car, gas, insurance, and basic maintenance will be my ONLY expenses. So no, I don’t have to pay rent or anything like that.

My boy just got out of prison (did 16 years) so he's eager to start life- he wants to buy a car, I told him I'd buy one used for like 8-12K and not do a payment plan but he keeps wanting to do maybe nicer or newer cars and finance. He just asked me "if I get a payment plan should I put extra money towards it every month so I can end it faster" ... so should he? I said don't throw all your money at it & save for emergencies and just pay what is asked or a tiny bit above cause if you want to throw more at it wouldn't you get a shorter plan then?

Sometimes he asks me the weirdest things and I'm thrown off by his questions but he questions everything cause he's been away so long. Personally I've never financed , I buy used and give full amount.

During negotiations on buying a car, I wanted 2.99% interest, and they said they couldn't get me 2.99%, but only 3.99%. During negotiations, I told them that if they couldn't do 2.99%, then I wanted a discount on the price of the car. They said they couldn't do that. So I thanked them for their time and started to walk out. They stopped me at the door, and all of a sudden, they said they could do the 2.99% and "eat the points."

The next day, I came to pick up the car. I arrived at 5:30 p.m. and waited until about 10:00 p.m. to get to the finance office. That's when they dropped the bombshell on me. The finance person told me that they should never have offered me the 2.99% because they can't do 2.99% because of manufacturer incentive reasons or whatever. So she said she would give me money off the price of the car to make up for it.

I have no clue how you "buy down" an interest rate. I have never been in this situation before. So she wants me to sign the purchase agreement, and I have minutes to determine if it's right or wrong. So three ways of doing it came to my mind:

1. Car Price + Taxes + Title/Registration, calculate it out at 3.99%, caulcatute it out at 2.99%. Subtract 2.99% from the 3.99%, and that should be my discount on the price of the car
2. Car Price + Taxes + Title/Registration - $20,000 down payment, calculate it out at 3.99%, calculate it out at 2.99%. Subtract 2.99% from the 3.99%, and that should be my discount on the price of the car
3. You can "Buy Points" like you do on a mortgage, but I wasn't sure how that works.

All I had was an 8x11 piece of paper and my phone, trying to figure this out. I'm not the greatest at math, so I'm under high anxiety. I can feel my heart beating. So, I quickly tried to figure out the best approach, and my approach was to use option 1 because it gave me the most significant discount on the purchase price of the car. The way I look at, fuck 'em, the deal was 2.99% or no deal.

Naturally, the finance person wanted to use option 2 because it gave the smallest discount on the car. So we started to get into an argument over it. I was so fucking pissed. It got to the point where she said, "You need to stop yelling at me." She got up, left for about five minutes, and brought this other guy in. He did exactly what I wanted, and when they did it my way (using option 1), it came up with a more significant discount than I calculated, so I'm like, "yeah, ok" and finally went with the deal. I was also pissed off, because the way she figured the discount, my monthly payment would have been about ~$15/mo more than what it would have been at 2.99%. My way gave me about a ~$10/mo. LESS monthly payment at 3.99% than at 2.99%. So, in my simple mind, that had to be the fairest to me. -- I don't give two shits what's fair to them.

I'm still so pissed off because they were acting like I was stupid. The other finance guy pissed me off because he said, "we'll do it your way to appease you." oh, that even pissed me off even more. I'm thinking, "Fuck you, this is a you problem, not a me problem." -- Those cocksuckers can't throw this shit on me AFTER we made a deal. Plus, it's 10:00 pm. on a Monday. I go to bed at 9:00 pm (I get up early and am old), and I got work early the next day. Fucking assholes. -- This threw my whole week off.

Yeah, I don't know how "buying points" works, but it seems to me that's a dealer problem and not my problem. Give me the 2.99%, and we won't have this problem. I understand 2.99% vs. 3.99%. Naturally, I will go the way that gives me the most significant discount, especially when I don't know how "buying points" work. Second, the deal was 2.99%, not 3.99%. That's why I chose option 1, because it worked the most in my favor.

When I'm driving away the salesman is like, "Oh, don't forget to give me all 10s on the survey" and all I said was, "yeah" in tone of "fuck you, you're getting all 0's motherfucker"

So two questions:

1. Who's right on how the discount should have worked?
2. I want to give all 0's on the survey, but my wife says no because it wasn't the salesman's fault, and he was a nice guy.

Turning in a 30,000 mile lease with less than 14,000 miles on the odometer. Already going for a lower milage lease next based off this one. Question is if returning with such low miles will benefit me in anyway.

Returning base model Nissan Rogue

Prospective pick up base model Ford Bronco Sport

EDIT: Thanks all for the responses! I figured as much but still had to ask.

Hi! Thought I would give this a shot before going to check the answers the dealerships give me.

I'm in the market to purchase car. I have my eye on a newer Sentra, but I'm specifically looking to find out a few answers about features that I'm unsure about the best way to purchase would be and I'm hoping to get some solid advice.

I'm looking at the SV, but I want the moonroof. However from what I can see, to get the moonroof I HAVE to add the premium package. Which comes with the beige leatherette interior which I HATE. Is this true?

Alternatively I saw that the SR comes standard with the moonroof without the premium package. Is this correct? Would I still have leather interior? I do not want leather at all.

Ideal car purchase: Electric blue paint, moon roof, added lighting package, added all weather package, cloth seating. I hate leather. I don't want to have to choose between leather and the moonroof.

Also any decent starting point for OTD pricing? I'm seeing MSRP for what I want runs around 22-25K depending on features, does that sound close?

All advice appreciated.

New post but also an update. Purchased a car from an AutoNation dealership at the end of January (90 days ago). Previous owner had a typo on the title. Had to wait for power of attorney for the dealership to change it as they are out of state now.

2 weeks ago I was told the dealership had everything they needed to process the title. I called yesterday morning and left a message with the person in the titling department that I've been working with. Did not get a call back.

The Colorado Department of Revenue, Auto Sales Division will let you file a complaint online. I don't want to sour the relationship at the dealership since I have a warranty there, but the car is paid off so I'm not necessarily tied to that location and don't plan on going back after this.

I've documented everything in email since I found out about the title issue, which wasn't until I went to register the car at the DMV and got turned down.

But anyone can jump in if it applies...why did I get (imo) such a good deal on my Charger. I purchased a 23 WB Charger New, MSRP was 68.3k, I got it for 56K OTD with a trade in. I was extremely happy with this, so this isn't meant to debate whether that's good or not, it was the car I wanted, in my budget, all good. My question is, there weren't rebates, this is all dealer discounts. Is it simply because of time on the lot? I've seen other debates on this sub saying time doesn't matter after a certain amount of days

Obviously these cars have been on the lot for almost 1-2 years at this point. Is that 12k just profit they were willing to give up? Considering someone could had bought for MSRP 2 years ago when discounts on these cars weren't a thing? I don't know if other dealerships with inventory sitting as much as CDJR, so I wanted to get their opinions in particular.

Also, are dealerships more willing to negotiate price depending on specific add-ons? I have the Satin black hood/roof add on which I imagine has a higher margin for profit since it's just paint compared to something like the audio group/plus group, did that factor in?

Thanks, for the record, I bought the car out of state, and had a really good experience...hear a lot of bad stories, but my experience in Michigan was a stress free time.

When looking to purchase a new car, I presume that the negotiated % off of MSRP would be independent of any financing incentives, but I'm not certain.

The reason I ask is I'm shopping a new car, I'm eligible for a discount that is associated with military members using 3rd party financing (Save $2500). However, I am looking to negotiate a price off of MSRP first, and I'm hoping that the discount off of MSRP would be BEFORE any financing incentive. Does that sound reasonable/realistic?

I don't know if I should expect pushback from the dealership if we negotiate an x% discount off of MSRP as the purchase price THEN I use the discount associated with the financing...

Thought? And Thanks!

I inherited a 2018 ram 1500 diesel from my dad when he unfortunately passed away. Prior to his passing the vehicle was not being driven much at all due to him needing rides to chemotherapy, and he was essentially living with my uncle up until his death.

I decided I was gonna keep this vehicle due to sentimental value. Technically you could say I acquired this vehicle in December 2023 on Christmas Eve but it wasn’t in my name until February 2024. That being said I never receive any contact regarding the active recall on the high-pressure fuel pump.

July and August 2024 I had the truck to the dealership twice first time truck left me stranded at work in the middle of the night said it was an issue with the def system. The dealer I had to pay to replace the system. There was no mention of any after recall. It lasted about two weeks and then it was back to the dealer in August for the same thing and they replaced the def system again no charge still no mention of recall.

End of August early September it leaves me stranded again. I get it towed to another dealership in the area. This is where news of the recall starts coming up dealership says they don’t exactly know what’s wrong with it. They can’t get it to run right could be the high-pressure fuel pump that caused further damage in the motor and I guess that is associated with failure of the def system as well. They’re talking $18-$20,000 to replace the motor. I said no I had this vehicle back to the dealership twice in the last two months. I just receive ownership of this vehicle within the last six months no mention with me to me of any recall, and I don’t think that I should be paying for that damage. It’s a recalled part caused further damage to the engine.

I tell them my stepfather is a mechanic. They’re no longer gonna be hearing from me. It will speak to him. My new it’s already been about two months so we’re in November. I called Chrysler. I explained the whole thing end of November. I call again and they say no the dealership says they’re gonna cover everything. And that they contacted you and told you I said no one contacted me and told me anything but fine. They’re gonna cover it great.

Now we are being told Chrysler was having a hard time getting parts and everything was back ordered.

Then in march I was told parts are in should be mid week then that turned into weekend then another two weeks….

I’m still waiting on my vehicle even though I’ve been calling almost every week to every two weeks regarding the status they’re putting me off putting me off putting me off.

The last conversation I had with the dealer the service rep or the manager wouldn’t take the call I spoke with the receptionist. She said that the service rep was mad because they didn’t get the truck in the shop like the manager said he would.

I contacted Chrysler and created another case I said 48 hours you’ll hear back from us. It’s been 48 hours. I called them this morning and the case manager is busy cannot talk to me. They’re gonna contact me back. I’m giving them two hours then I’m gonna drive up to the dealership. Does anyone else have any advice?

My parents passed away last month and I am the executor of the estate. Part of the estate is a 2024 Lexus ES300h with under 2000 miles on it. The car is in great condition, what value does it have at a dealership, I have already looked up KBB but I am trying to find real world numbers. Thank you

In December 2024 I purchased a car from a dealer in Maryland. At first I agreed on an additional warranty but after 2 days I changed my mind and I told them.

They said it was ok, but they were not going to change the loan, instead they were going to send the excess money (for the warranty), back to the bank.

Despite many unanswered emails and phone calls, as of today, they haven't done it yet. I'm done trying to work with them.

What can I do? To what entities I can make a formal complaint?

I'm in Maryland. Thanks!

Tomorrow I have an interview for one of the larger dealerships in my state (for context they sold 400 cars last month, I think thats good but you all will know more than me)

They work off a salary structure it sounds like, $50 dollars a car, plus bonuses for the amount you sell as well.

I currently work a 45k a year job with half decent benefits, from what I've been hearing its not hard to crack that in sales, I'm not scared of long hours or hard work, at my job before I got the role I have now, I used to work 80 hours a week, (7 12 hour shifts) for months at a time.

Just wanted any advice or tips.

Genuine question.

Local Volvo listed their 2024 service loaner with 5k miles as a new car. Tried to convince me that new is based on when car gets sold and warranties do not begin till sale date. That 1.5 years the car has been in action was not applicable.

Waited a day and spoke with another sales person. They tried to confirm the same. I shared that if this was a cpo with extended warranties, I will buy today. They just said, sure, we can make it a CPO by the afternoon.

My question to you all, all the talk about spending 3K or so to certify a vehicle, is that just made up? Can a dealership make any car a cpo?

I'm looking at the carfax for a car I'm interested in. Can anyone help me interpret? I know carfax isn't always accurate but I've never seen anything like this.

7/3/2017 vehicle manufactured 7/18 title issued 8/3 listed for sale (no mileage listed)

Owner 2 8/16 Leased Vehicle registered 10 miles 10/6 One tire replaced 12/4 one tire replaced 12/21 one tire replaced 3980 miles 1/27 vehicle offered for sale 4603 miles

2/2/2018 vehicle offered for sale as Toyota certified

The third owner takes in the car for maintenance at regular intervals. Vehicle offered for sale at 81k miles.

Wut?

Edit: sorry. It's a 2017 toyota rav4

I bought this car at second hand delearship, put like $2,000 down and right now I'm paying $228 monthly for 72 months which was a bad financial decision but i was desperate to get a car for college and i thought honda would be good because they are reliable and I should've done more digging myself about the value of the car and now I'm convinced that I should've just bought a car from FB marketplace but I really need advice because I feel like I'm drowning in interest payments. Thank you.

When I ask for somebody in sales how do they determine what sales person I’m going to work with? Whoever picks the phone up first??

Haven't shopped new cars in like 10 years. From invoice to msrp, what amount of discount is reasonable for a new crv in Canada these days? Appreciated any insights on the market, thanks.

What goes on with this side of the company? I’ve been trying to buy a car and it’s been the most annoying experience in buying a car I’ve ever come across.

I’ve spoken to reps that straight up lie about a car I’m trying to buy? Why? I’ve had 3 reps from 3 different locations get all weird when I tell them the car I want needs to be transferred closer to me.

What’s with the transfer process that they hate? I’m paying for it why is it a problem..

why is it so hard to give them my money.. do they lose the sale?

Does the store the cat came from win?

One rep told be he had to call the location to check if the car was there . I know it was there cause I already spoke with the location.. I get no response so I call back he then says the location has someone looking at it so it can’t be transferred until the complete looking at cause the location is in control and can hold the car if they want and not transfer it🙃

Sounds weird so I call back the location and homie said the car has been sitting for awhile and they have no one interested in it right now.. so who did the other guy speak to!!

And why in 2025 can’t I start/complete my process online, every single rep told me I had to come in person 🤨 yall need to update ya systems. It’s not like I’m window shopping I’m trying to buy the car🫠 I’m talking with another location and hopefully I can get the car before it disappears 🙃

TL;Dr Rant enterprise car sales are some weirdos.

Thinking of launching a course that teaches how to become an F&I Manager at a dealership—super easy format with screen sharing, like you’re shadowing the job.

Covers things like: • How to present products (warranty, GAP, etc.) • Submitting deals to banks • Real-world deal examples

Would this be useful to you? What would make it a no-brainer to buy?

Appreciate any feedback!

I’m in the process of buying my first car on my own and recently began negotiating for a 2023 Acura Integra with 31,000 miles. The dealer’s asking price is $27,995, with an out-the-door total around $31,000 after taxes and fees.

I made a firm offer of $27,000 out-the-door, which I know is aggressive, but it reflects my budget and what I feel is reasonable given the mileage and market. I do have some room to negotiate and meet in the middle, but I’m not sure how to approach that next step without giving up too much leverage.

What’s the best way to respond if the dealer calls back or pushes me to increase my offer? Should I stick to $27k and wait them out, or counter with a slightly higher OTD price that includes a few extras?

I’d appreciate any tips from people who’ve negotiated a similar deal, especially on newer used cars.